The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: InfantSorrow on June 19, 2014, 06:06:22 am
-
Allow myself to introduce... myself. lol
I've recently completed my first arcade, now I just need to get it coated and I don't want to f$%k it up.
Decided I'm not going to roller paint it, I want a baby bottom finish! From what I've read a high pressure low volume gravity spray gun and air compressor gives the best finish. Already have an air compressor.
My question is, the air compressor is rated at 6.7 CFM. The HVLP gravity guns I'm looking at state on the packacing 5 - 10 average CFM requirement. Am I still good to go or should I be looking at an air compressor with higher CFM.
What would it mean for the spray job if I am at the lower range of this requirement?
-
You want to be looking at the size of the tank too, At the very least you will need 20 gal/1.5 hp... However bigger is better (Yes Jennifer just said that. ::))
The finish your talking about may look out of place on some cabs, smooth high gloss has its place but most were a bit textured with a semi gloss, this can be achieved with a gun but will require an enhancer (or custom mixed paint) and some real forethought into the application.
-
Jennifer has covered a lot of good things here, but there are some big hits here you need to be aware of.
Primers in general don't do well on anything but commercial/expensive paint guns. I spray paint my cabs but roll on the primer. I use an oil based primer for best adhesion/absorption. I use two coats primer.
Then I use this gun http://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers-trays/power-sprayers/cup-gun/wagner-power-painter-optimus-5-4/p-1625428-c-8142.htm (http://www.menards.com/main/paint/brushes-rollers-trays/power-sprayers/cup-gun/wagner-power-painter-optimus-5-4/p-1625428-c-8142.htm) and it works fantastic for finish. The quality is baby bottoms smooth. I use two coats of latex based.
-
2k primer is for covering damage and surfacing (normally), But after sanding, the same product can be thinned down and used as a sealer, or reapplied as primer and topcoated for that orange peel effect.... But FWIW, in both cases the primer/sealer can be tinted with topcoat color, this brings it closer to matching and someday when the cab gets banged and dinged (they all do) the damage area wont have that grey bulls eye ring around it.... The guns are not really that expensive anymore, your local auto store more than likely has a budget model gravity feed for around 50.00us, Rest assured however they usually are the real deal, and are capable of a nice finish.
-
Thanx for the input Jennifer and Khalid.
This is what I am aiming for:
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL2001/10876724/20820869/344854290.jpg (http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL2001/10876724/20820869/344854290.jpg)[/img]
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL2001/10876724/20820869/344854086.jpg)
(http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL2001/10876724/20820869/344418771.jpg)
Isn't that beautiful!
That was done with lacquer and HVLP gun.
This wagner sprayer has me interested Khalid, ever used it with lacquer?
Would I be able to reproduce above look with such a sprayer?
-
Lacquer's from what I remember are oil based, which don't work well in most residential spray guns. You can get the same finish with a Latex based paint too, just a difference of Oil base or Water base.
So no, if you were going to use Lacquer I wouldn't use it with the gun I listed. That gun is Latex based only. There are other guns similar to that around the $150-200 range that are still "residential" but can use oil. The challenge in cleaning any paint gun that uses Oil based requires acetone, which just isn't very nice on anything it touches. It's why I use Latex for all of my paints. Cleans up with warm water and de-greaser. I believe Latex is also better for the environment but most paints are bad for the environment regardless.
-
I like to use rusteloum paints in a can. I thin and spray with this awesome little gun from harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-detail-spray-gun-92126.html) I've used larger much more expensive guns, but prefer this one by far.
I've stocked up on a couple of spares just in case they stop making it.
Satin Black rustoleum seems to be a perfect product for arcade cabinets.
-
Lacquer's from what I remember are oil based, which don't work well in most residential spray guns. You can get the same finish with a Latex based paint too, just a difference of Oil base or Water base.
So no, if you were going to use Lacquer I wouldn't use it with the gun I listed. That gun is Latex based only. There are other guns similar to that around the $150-200 range that are still "residential" but can use oil. The challenge in cleaning any paint gun that uses Oil based requires acetone, which just isn't very nice on anything it touches. It's why I use Latex for all of my paints. Cleans up with warm water and de-greaser. I believe Latex is also better for the environment but most paints are bad for the environment regardless.
Lacquer is not oil based but sort of solvent based. You have to use lacquer thinner to thin it. Lacquer is kind of an old finish that they used to spray cars with back in the 60's. I don't know where you would even find the paint, maybe an auto parts store. The reason they quit using it is modern urethane base coat clear coat is a lot more durable. lacquer was bad to crack. Usually with lacquer you have to kind of buff the top coat.
Go buy you a cheap siphon gun http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html) HVLP require more air pressure than one of these siphon guns. here is an article on both types. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dent8.html (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dent8.html). I wouldn't use latex with the gun, it is hard to spray. Go to like an auto parts store or even lowes and get your paint and primer. Remember you probably will only need a quart of each. thin it down and practice spraying till you get it right. It's not hard. I spray clear polyurethane over mine. You can spray oil based also. Latex is just tough to spray.
Remember though if it is painted slick shiny black you will see every imperfection in the cabinet from 20 foot away. You will have to put about 10 coats and sand in between to get all the low spots filled. I always do mine in satin you can see less imperfections. there is a lot of trial and error with painting but it's not hard.
Jay
-
@jahar, michelevit,khalid & Jen
I went back to the department store I got the original air compressor 2 hp, 7 cfm compressor from and they allowed me to swap it our for a 3hp, 14 cfm one! The old one I bought 2 months ago but I never got round to using it, still had everything in the original packaging.
At least I scored something there :)
Anyways, I hooked up the HVLP spray guns to this and man o man.. was it beautiful lol I sprayed a couple of off cuts with primer and then a satin black lacquer paint and it came out glorious!
Thanks for all the input guys, really appreciate it.
-
Where in the world did u find lacquer paint? I didn't think they even made it any more. I have a 3.5 hp I may try an HVLP gun instead of my old siphon. Btw. You should get a water separator those tanks hold condensation and you will sling a big glob of rusty water on your paint.
@jahar, michelevit,khalid & Jen
I went back to the department store I got the original air compressor 2 hp, 7 cfm compressor from and they allowed me to swap it our for a 3hp, 14 cfm one! The old one I bought 2 months ago but I never got round to using it, still had everything in the original packaging.
At least I scored something there :)
Anyways, I hooked up the HVLP spray guns to this and man o man.. was it beautiful lol I sprayed a couple of off cuts with primer and then a satin black lacquer paint and it came out glorious!
Thanks for all the input guys, really appreciate it.
-
Where in the world did u find lacquer paint? I didn't think they even made it any more. I have a 3.5 hp I may try an HVLP gun instead of my old siphon. Btw. You should get a water separator those tanks hold condensation and you will sling a big glob of rusty water on your paint.
Cape Town, South Africa dude. Got it at an autoshop.
Yeah I noticed the condensation thing. After I finished spraying I emptied out the air from the tank as per manufacturer instructions and some water droplets came out. That sh*t is not cool. Gonna have to take care of it.
But all in all, I'm happy I have a new skill. This is why I love BYOAC. ;D
-
Nothing wrong with the compressor producing some moisture while in use. it's just physics. as soon as you empty the tank, drain the water, and refill the tank there is water in there again from the compression process.
Draining the tank is just to keep it from rusting. water has to be removed from the compressed air downstream from the tank, hence the outboard compressor driers you see people use.
-
Okay guys.. on a related note, can you guys give me pointers on where to get cheap t-molding for my cade?
I have a trim router and ordered a 1.5mm bit to cut the grooves for t-molding, i dont want to leave the edges raw or put laminate the t-molding just looks better.
I phoned around here and can't find any local suppliers of the stuff. Think I've read on some posts here that you guys do some internal trading, please let me in on your little blackmarket world! I need t-molding ---by the flying spaghetti monster's hairy nether regions!---!
PS. I promise I'm not a fed lol
-
I ordered my t-molding online when i ordered my buttons and joysticks. (from Groovy Game Gear)
40 cents per foot was a really good deal in my opinion!
If its the only thing you are ordering, the shipping might be a more than you hope. (but you can always order some back-up switches to keep on hand!)
No, i don't work for them, I was just really happy with my order from them!
-
GameMolding.com (http://gamemolding.com/default.aspx)