Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: VHSFI on June 11, 2014, 03:05:49 pm
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Hi,
I tried to swap the CRT of my machine due to the old one suffering a accident that rendered it unusable,
My chassis is a Hantarex Polo 2 25/28 Auto
My previous CRT was a A66EAS13X01
The new CRT is a A66EAK071X11 salvaged from a SANYO TV
There is a sticker on the chassis that has a couple of CRT numbers that are compatible with the chassis
one of the being A66EAK552X11 and from what i gathered from some Google searches its almost the same as the A66EAK071X11
so i swapped the crt was a bit doubtfull regarding the deflection wires on the yoke but i just soldered the pairs that corresponded to the same
type of impedance as the old one like this:
on the old one i had these impedances:
2.0ohm
9.8ohm
New one:
2.0ohm
5.2ohm
i may have messed the wire order but from what i understand what this can cause is image inversion right ?
I also replaced a resistor on the neckboard as the one that came with the chassis was 12R and i had replaced it with a 4R7 witch was
apparetly more advisable to my CRT (A66EAS13x01) at the time.
So now i have no image at all, i can see the Orange glow on the heater and i hear like a humming sound comming from the tube (don't get this sound if i don't connect the yoke wires)
but nothing on screen adjusting the screen pot on the flyback does nothing, i'm almost certain that the high voltage is not kicking in and i don't hear that sound that you get after turning
on of the energy filling the screen.
So have i killed the chassis or the tube itself ?
Is the tube not compatible with the chassis?
Any tips to maybe troubleshoot this?
Thx
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first thing i have to admit is : im no tv guy ..
so u tried to replace a broken videocolor with a philips tube ? .. ok ..
- make sure u didnt mix up hor. <> vertical
- measure resistance and inductance and verify they are close by
- anode , ground etc wires are connected ?!
- the easiest way would have been to purchase an identical tube or tv . the mentioned tube can be found in a nokia tv set like Nokia SP71D1
- the recommended philips tube can be found in some philips tvs like Philips 28PT4104 . newer philips tvs are labled on the back with infos bout model , chassis and tube . so it wont be difficult to pick one with the specified philips a66eak552x11 . so far i know the defl coil should be identical on 552x011 and 071x11
- another approach may be to switch the deflection unit , but i dont know for sure if the thomson-videocolor defl. unit fits on the philips tube . i prefer original philips or philips taken out of grundig tvs . they are very common and appear to be of better quality compared to videocolor- thomson .
ps. with the right cardboard or some old tv plastic case u can ship tubes with a reasonable risk ..
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Videocolor-Bildroehre-A66EAS13X01-fuer-Fernseher-top-Zustand-voll-funktionsfaehig-/331183230612?nma=true&si=QLwl3fdHuL%252BhD5qm3sjGXRQ99C0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 (http://www.ebay.de/itm/Videocolor-Bildroehre-A66EAS13X01-fuer-Fernseher-top-Zustand-voll-funktionsfaehig-/331183230612?nma=true&si=QLwl3fdHuL%252BhD5qm3sjGXRQ99C0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)
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thx for the reply, i'm pretty sure i didn't mix the hor. - vertical at most i may have messed the pair order but i think that would only give me inverted picture.
switching the deflection unit with the one in the videocolor doen't seem very doable they are very dissimilar at least mechanicaly.
The most i can think is the difference in the resistance 9.8 ohm - 5.2 ohm could this cause this kind of simptom?
Also will there be high voltage at the anode even if the deflection wires and the neck board are disconnected ?
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the new crt should run as some of mine are 5.2ohms on 28" polo 2 auto
if the chassis had a deflection issue then the over current protection would kick and it would just chirp at you
first check you have not damaged any track on R35 and also check the connection of G2 from the flyback
do you have photos of your yoke connector and the neck card you can post here
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i don't hear any of those ticking/chirping noise that are usually indication of a short somewhere.
I will check the connections you mentioned tommorow.
I have a few pics i took earlier today not the best stuff but should give you a idea.
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you know on many monitors you do not hear the HT even on power up
have you cranked up the cut offs yet,also i am sure you have but check the remote board is connected correctly
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Remote board is ok, haven't touched the cutoffs, will try tomorrow.
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So i checked R35 contacts they were ok, fiddled with the cut offs no result.
And i have a friend who has a polo star with a CRT that is also supposed to work with this chassis
so i took my chassis to his cabinet and the result is exactly the same i think the problem is with the chassis.
Also what is the G2 connection from the flyback?
I'm thinking the problem is in the chassis any tips ?
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ooo lucky you did kill the deflection circuit putting this on a polostar,polostar are 0.300mh horizontal.Your polo 2 is 1.4mh
you now need to look at 200v circuit
the g2 is the red wire that goes from the flyback transformer to the neck card
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Luckly i didn't, my mistake the sticker inside my friends machine actually says hantares polostar but the chassis is very similar to mine,
his chassis doens't have any sticker in it and the one that says polostar is actually sticked to the cabinet probably a remnant of one of
the chassis that where there on another time.
His crt is exactly the same model as my damaged crt(A66EAS13X01) i even checked the ohms on yoke and they match.
So whatever damage my chassis has it was already there, still the same simptoms remain.
-Orange glow on neck
-That humming sound on the yoke (to me is the sound any tv does when working normaly)
-No image (meaning nothing it's like when its powered off)
Also checked g2 connection and as far as i can tell connection wise everything seems ok.
Anything else i can check?
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what was the accident btw?
this may have a bearing on the problem
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The accident was that while trying to do some work on the cabinet itself i let a wrench slip witch ended up hitting the
neck of the crt and it made a sound of air decompressing, it's cracked, stupid i know, should been more carefull.
Everything was disconnected at the time and i never turned it on again after that.
By the way do you know the pin out of the connector on the neck board on the polo ?
on the chassis of the TV from where i pulled the crt there are some label on the pins starting from the left and going clockwise:
G1 G G2 R H+ H- B AQU
just trying to compare with the polo to see if there ins't any compatibility problem there.
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neck board schem attached
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Thx for the schem, the pin's check out.
So i have gone to the guy from where i bought my arcade cabinet and he lended me
a chassis to test the crt (polo 2 25/28 manual switch), the state of the thing is miserable, ripped componentes,
lift traces (on purpose) i really don't know how this thing works but the truth is that it works on my crt,
the image was inverted both ways but i just swapped the wires in the yoke and everything was ok.
One thing i noticed is that i can clearly hear when the hight voltage kicks in, it's clearly noticeable.
I suspect that's the problem on my chassis any way of troubleshoot this?
Some photos of the bodges on the lended chassis for posterity
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difficult fault to prove without it in front of me,i would guess you have some broken track somewhere
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Yeah diagnosing stuff at a distance is complicated.
I swapped the flyback from the lended chassis to mine just for the sake of it, but problem still same.
I tried searching for cracks on the tracks haven't found one yet but i'm still searching.
One thing i noticed is that the heater gets a more noticeable orange glow (brighter) with my chassis than with
the lended one (same r35 12R resistor on neck board) where the glow is barely noticeable, could this have anything to do with it ?
Any voltage i can measure somewhere that can help.
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the 12r will produce less of a heater glow as it is reducing the current
maybe this is related to the crt socket,this new tube may require the ground pins that are not used on the original tube-if you look at the neck card you will see your present socket does not use all the pins
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maybe this is related to the crt socket,this new tube may require the ground pins that are not used on the original tube-if you look at the neck card you will see your present socket does not use all the pins
The original sanyo tv socket has the same exact pins as mine and both have the same unused pins.
But going to the good news i have found the fault, the problem was in the TH2 transformer.
I did a continuity test on it and one of sides didn't register any.
Replaced it with the one from the lended chassis and it's working, left him on for about 2 hours and everything seems to check out except some colors,
as i have fiddled with the cut-offs colors seem a bit odd, i tweeked them a bit, but is there a proper calibration procedure ?
Now where can i source one of these transformers?
Also where can i get the plug for the power input of the chassis (lost the original one)?
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i have has those transformers go open circuit one winding on mtc900 but never a polo,normally the wire just corrodes at one of the contact pins(on the top)
Only place you will find a transformer like that is on a scrap chassis,i have shed loads of them but i am in the u.k-you can have one free of charge as long as you pay shipping
that connector is mate n lok 3 way,ebay will list them
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post a photo of a screen in regards to the setup issues you are getting
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Regarding the connectors what's the pin type and dimmension to go with it?
I'll post a picture about the cut-off adjustment monday as the monitor is at my work place.
Is it ok i PM you about the transformer?
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of course you can pm me,i am only on forums to help people
here is a ebay link to the exact connector-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-way-MATE-N-LOK-multi-connector-26050-60-/380290669060?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588b171a04 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-way-MATE-N-LOK-multi-connector-26050-60-/380290669060?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588b171a04)
although it is a u.k listing it shows exactly what you need,remember to get the correct type pins as you will need male pins
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Hi,
After some tweaks i think i got the image in a pretty good shape now i have some questions:
Whenever there i a screen transition specially if it is from something dark to white there is a pretty nasty bloom (image reduces and then goes back to normal size) and even with a still image there is a very faint but noticeable drift back and forth horizontaly.
Main filter CAP?
If yes current on is a 400v 150uf can it replaced with a 450v 150uf?
The other problem is concerning focus i know the corners never get in focus like the center of the screen, but i don't know
if this problem i'm seeing is realted to this or not.
In the pictures is have attached (1st one Top Left Corner of the screen) you can see on the lines the various colors seem misaligned
on the second one (Center left of the screen) the problem doesn't seem to exist as much at least.
Is this related to the focus or some other setting?
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blooming on polo 2 can be down to flyback transformer-i had one do this recently
otherwise it could be a cap on the 200v line,possibly even b+ smoothing cap
i would not rule out the video source causing this though as many of the xxxx in 1 game boards do this,check with a standard jamma pcb first
the problems you are seeing in the corners are convergence issues,you will need magnetic strips to correct those minor issues if it just the corners.
if the problem is throughout the entire picture then the convergence rings need adjusting
see this tutorial
How to do the final (edge) convergence on a color CRT (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYB1L8AIeq4#)