Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: kuehnau on June 04, 2014, 10:25:32 pm
-
So, I've worked on and off on a project for awhile and in the process I decided I have absolutely had it with painting. I'm done with it. I've searched my local menards, but the closest thing they have to what I want is some 4x8 wood grain wood paneling. I've thought about using that instead of painting, or formica (being there's no place in town that sells formica locally and ordering it is super expensive). Also because menards says it is wood paneling I assume it might be easier to work with.
I figure contact cement and the bolts in the cab would be enough to hold it on. My biggest concern is the additional depth on the sides, would this mess with the t-molding much? Thanks for some insight.
-
Maybe paneling is made differently now, but I recall the kind we had as a kid as being prone to splinters and denting. I don't think I could say "Go for it" without seeing a photo of it first.
-
Laminate is good too. Personally I've looked as most and now I paint. Paint by hand 2 coats primer and then use a spray gun for the final 2 coats of your color. The sprayer makes a WORLD of difference and you can get them cheap from Menards when they have their 35% off sale.
-
I've actually just last night found a local shop that was selling some 4x9 wood grain Laminate sheets that looks fairly good, the problem is they want $60.00 a sheet. I guess I'll just wait and see.
-
I forgot to mention I've also found some slightly cheaper oak wood grain Veneer that looks pretty good and since it comes in rolls I assume it's flexible. I haven't found much info on using veneer on arcade cabs yet though, like what would I cut it with?
-
I forgot to mention I've also found some slightly cheaper oak wood grain Veneer that looks pretty good and since it comes in rolls I assume it's flexible. I haven't found much info on using veneer on arcade cabs yet though, like what would I cut it with?
Really depends on what the "veneer" is actually made of. If it's a woodgrain formica, there is a special tool for cutting the stuff since formica laminate likes to crack and chip. If it's actually real wood then you can probably get away with just using a good carpet knife.
-
Box says real wood veneer, paper backed. It's rolled up in a box like youd have a small area rug rolled up.
-
I also found this stuff I'm thinking about ordering
http://www.parts-express.com/marshall-style-black-elephant-tolex-vinyl-cabinet-covering-yard-54-wide--260-7606 (http://www.parts-express.com/marshall-style-black-elephant-tolex-vinyl-cabinet-covering-yard-54-wide--260-7606)
I think with chrome T-moulding it'd look really sharp.
-
I also found this stuff I'm thinking about ordering
http://www.parts-express.com/marshall-style-black-elephant-tolex-vinyl-cabinet-covering-yard-54-wide--260-7606 (http://www.parts-express.com/marshall-style-black-elephant-tolex-vinyl-cabinet-covering-yard-54-wide--260-7606)
I think with chrome T-moulding it'd look really sharp.
Yeah, you can use wood grain or those types of coverings that are normally found on Speakers. They work really well, apply easy and stay on for a long time.
-
Box says real wood veneer, paper backed. It's rolled up in a box like youd have a small area rug rolled up.
Not sure if you already know this, but that stuff is just thin wood. You need to varnish it (or something) in order to protect it and make it more durable. I happened to use some of that for my home theater build a while back. I did cherry wood veneer, stain and satin varnish.
Point being, it can look nice, but I'm not sure it's less effort than painting. Laminate is certainly easier.
Attached pic for reference.
EDIT: Forgot to resize pic.
-
I decided to go with the black elephant skin tolex, due to price and from what I understand it's fairly flexable and easy to cut. What I want to do is go with a black for the inside cabinet, the elephant skin on the outside, chrome t-molding and then like a wood grain vinyl for the front where the coin door is going.
It's not really "wood working" anymore, but I was hoping for some advise on the tolex. A lot of people mention clamping and stapling it into place after gluing it down. I was planning on using contact cement and hoped with that and the cabinets bolts, it's stay in place.
What I was planning on was simply laying out the tolex, spreading the contact cement and then just laying the cabinet side right down on top of it, once it sets, cutting all the excess tolex off, would this work out okay or would someone suggest something else?
One other thing, I am looking for something soft and flexable for the wood grain for the coin door panel, but I am having issues finding something like that, can anyone direct me to something? I don't really want to use something like formica because it's expensive and I keep hearing about splintering and such.
-
What I was planning on was simply laying out the tolex, spreading the contact cement and then just laying the cabinet side right down on top of it, once it sets, cutting all the excess tolex off, would this work out okay or would someone suggest something else?
Here is an article ( http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-248294.html (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-248294.html) ) that discusses using contact cement with tolex -- seems it will be fine if you use the solvent based cement but not so good with the water based stuff !!
-
http://www.designyourwall.com/store/Wood-Grain-Contact-paper-c-132.html (http://www.designyourwall.com/store/Wood-Grain-Contact-paper-c-132.html)
Found this site, seems reasonable.