Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: s_busby_uk on May 07, 2014, 10:22:25 am
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What's the recommended way of doing this? I don't want a permanent solution as I'd like the option of removing it again in future if possible. Is it even necessary if the buttons are holding it in place?
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On a game that is going out on the route, we use "carriage bolts" to hold the Lexan in place and keep the edges from curling up.
In a home use, you could probably use ordinary nuts-and-bolts.
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For home use, the buttons are probably enough.
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On a game that is going out on the route, we use "carriage bolts" to hold the Lexan in place and keep the edges from curling up.
In a home use, you could probably use ordinary nuts-and-bolts.
What tool or punch do you use to make the square holes?
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Yeah there's a start button in the top left and top right corners as well so I'm thinking that combined with the rest of the buttons may be enough? (It's for home use)
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Buttons will hold it in place and T-Molding around the edge will help prevent edges from being lifted up.
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By curling are you referring to the artwork?
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By curling are you referring to the artwork?
The artwork AND the Lexan. After a while the Lexan can bow upwards.
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On a game that is going out on the route, we use "carriage bolts" to hold the Lexan in place and keep the edges from curling up.
In a home use, you could probably use ordinary nuts-and-bolts.
What tool or punch do you use to make the square holes?
I use a small square file.
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By curling are you referring to the artwork?
The artwork AND the Lexan. After a while the Lexan can bow upwards.
Hmm, that does sound problematic. Do you think from my attached CP that I need worry too much? Wouldn't the curved surface make it a bit tricky to pin it down the most effectively?
(Ignore the weird marks, there were some annotations I haphazardly removed in Photoshop)
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By curling are you referring to the artwork?
No, I'm talking about the acrylic. With exposed sides, there is the possibility of it being snagged and lifting (whether through use, transport, etc.). But with the edges protected with T-Molding, that is not likely to happen.
Honestly, I think you're over-stressing about this. Buttons + T-Molding will be fine.
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By curling are you referring to the artwork?
No, I'm talking about the acrylic. With exposed sides, there is the possibility of it being snagged and lifting (whether through use, transport, etc.). But with the edges protected with T-Molding, that is not likely to happen.
Honestly, I think you're over-stressing about this. Buttons + T-Molding will be fine.
Hmm, problem at this juncture is that my panel is 18mm thick (about 3/4") and I've already slot cut it in the middle (the acrylic was a bit of an afterthought when I realised how I wanted to position my joysticks). So at this point I'd need 21mm wide T-molding... I guess I could just get that?
Edit: Actually I can't do that cos the height of the slot would put it off centre. I think I'll just leave it - in my mind at least I like the idea of the acrylic edge being visible. Here's hoping that doesn't look awful.
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Since the slot is in the middle of the 18mm MDF, you may need to get 24mm or 1" and trim it to fit.
Related thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132413.0.html).
Scott
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I did buy one of those trimmers recently actually so that may not be a bad idea if it looks rubbish.
Thanks everyone!