Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: SpatzST on April 20, 2014, 02:24:36 am
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Meaning... what did you realize afterwards that it would have been nice to have?
For me.. center trackball, maybe re-align player 3-4 buttons, smaller design.
Just asking because I am considering a new project :)
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Buy the right tools ... I start mine with a hand saw and exacto cutter .
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Make panels swappable, even if not implemented. That was ALWAYS part of my design but I found it was always the first to go when I wanted to get to the finish line quicker. Now I find I'd rather have everything separated - don't need a trackball smack in the middle of two joysticks and buttons nor do I need a SFII setup when all I want to play is Galaga.
Also, simpler artwork. My last cabinet was a Centipede and it'll likely be rebuilt the same. But outside of the sides and marquee, everything else will be simplified. I'd rather save the full CPO and bezel for a legit Centipede. It just seemed a bit off having Centipede artwork with joysticks and twelve buttons... almost too busy.
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the biggest changes i made between my first panel and my latest are:
custom control panel artwork
no visible bolts for the joysticks/trackball
neatly routing wiring and buying a ratcheting crimping tool.
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1) I would not have angled my 3 and 4 player joysticks on my quad panel.
2) Simpler is better! After building my vertical cab with less stuff, that cab ended up getting played more!
a) Less controls and buttons
b) Condensed list of games
c) Not spending money on a multi-sync monitor and getting at 22" CRT monitor instead.
DeLuSioNaL29
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Dedicated cabinets with specific controls versus one cabinet with multiple controls.
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Make a test panel to test your layout and sticks (and to practice your drilling and routing skills if you are not an experienced wood worker).
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/82432150/Retrocade/cp_u360_sanwa.jpg)
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Meaning... what did you realize afterwards that it would have been nice to have?
For me.. center trackball, maybe re-align player 3-4 buttons, smaller design.
Just asking because I am considering a new project :)
After 3 years of solid use I'm quite pleased at how little I would do differently if I were to do it all over again, especially since I went into the process quite blind. I totally "get" the merits of having swappable panels or multiple dedicated cabinets, but honestly, I just don't have the time or desire to go through the whole cabinet build process again (although, I am currently in the midst of building a pedestal for my garage, but I was able to do most of that over the course of a single afternoon).
The panel on my main (basement) cabinet has 1- and 2-player 8-way sticks with 6 buttons apiece, a center-mounted trackball, and a dedicated 4-way wired up to the same inputs as the first player 8-way stick. Probably a bit too busy for many on this forum, but for my purposes, it's the "sweet spot" compromise between number of controls and number of games I'm able to play.
The only niggle that really comes to mind is lack of buttons to go with the 4-way stick. Initially, I put that stick on there with the intent to mainly use it in maze games and otherwise buttonless games (Frogger), but of course there are lots of great games that benefit from a 4-way stick but require 1 or 2 buttons as well. The way my panel is set up, I have buttons comfortably located for this if I am willing to move the joystick with my right hand and press buttons with my left, but this is backwards for some games that are important to me (e.g., Qix and Donkey Kong). For playing single-button games like DK, I've resorted to mapping the player-2 start button to jump, so I can use the 4-way stick with my left hand and hit the jump button with my right. It actually feels quite comfy and works great, but it did take me a while to warm up to the idea of using a button adorned with a player 2 decal as a jump button.
So, I guess what I'm saying is, I'd probably consider putting a button or two to the right of the dedicated 4-way stick. Or maybe I wouldn't... my panel has enough on it already.
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1) I would not have angled my 3 and 4 player joysticks on my quad panel.
2) Simpler is better! After building my vertical cab with less stuff, that cab ended up getting played more!
a) Less controls and buttons
b) Condensed list of games
c) Not spending money on a multi-sync monitor and getting at 22" CRT monitor instead.
DeLuSioNaL29
I hear you. My favorite build of mine was my 4-Way Vertical because it was pretty specific. I don't have it anymore, but at least it's still in the family.
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The way my panel is set up, I have buttons comfortably located for this if I am willing to move the joystick with my right hand and press buttons with my left, but this is backwards for some games that are important to me (e.g., Qix and Donkey Kong).
I am much more comfortable playing with the joystick in my right hand and buttons with my left. I'm partially ambidextrous. However, I think that setup would probably drive most people who might use the machine nuts. :banghead:
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So, I guess what I'm saying is, I'd probably consider putting a button or two to the right of the dedicated 4-way stick. Or maybe I wouldn't... my panel has enough on it already.
Get a couple of black buttons on there. No brainer imo unless you've run out of inputs.
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I am much more comfortable playing with the joystick in my right hand and buttons with my left. I'm partially ambidextrous. However, I think that setup would probably drive most people who might use the machine nuts. :banghead:
Yeah, funny thing with me is, my preference for right- or left-handed changes game by game. :-\
I tend to prefer joystick right on old 4-way games, especially ones with no buttons. For shooters, beat-em-ups, and the like, it's the opposite. But, on games like DK, I decided I wanted to use the same orientation as the original cabinet, in case I ever encountered one (which I have, and was able to jump right in no problem). On Qix though, when I tried to play a real cabinet, I was euchred because I'm accustomed to playing backwards on my MAME cabinet.
I think my preferences in this regard must be a result of me cutting my teeth on Atari 2600 (right hand stick / left hand fire) for the old-school type games, then switching to NES and Genesis (d-pad left / buttons right) for the late 80's and early 90's type stuff.
I recall several times being really annoyed trying to play late 80's and early 90's arcade games that were swapped into random cabinets as conversion kits, having buttons on the opposite side of the stick from what I had become used to by playing the same game at other locations. Hard to imagine there was actually a time when you'd be able to find the same arcade game at multiple places in your own city. :laugh:
Get a couple of black buttons on there. No brainer imo unless you've run out of inputs.
I'm strongly considering doing this. Even if I use the same inputs as buttons #1 and #2 from the 8-way player-1 position.
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I wish I'd added molex connectors to the sticks and button groups so I could more easily detach the control panel for maintenance and upgrades.
If I upgrade the sticks at some point I'll do that, though I might go for CAT5 network style cables and connectors to keep it tidy, and so the panel can be easily unplugged.
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I wish I'd added molex connectors to the sticks and button groups so I could more easily detach the control panel for maintenance and upgrades.
If I upgrade the sticks at some point I'll do that, though I might go for CAT5 network style cables and connectors to keep it tidy, and so the panel can be easily unplugged.
I did the CAT5 thing on my first panel. It'll be Molex for everything from here on out.
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Definately won't paint again. Laminate is your friend.
Bat-tops on 1plr 2plyr stick instead of ball tops, ball top on 4 way dedicated.
No spinner, never gets used.
Eliminate the extra admin buttons, hard exit, fast forward, tools etc.
Hope this helps :)
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I wish I'd added molex connectors to the sticks and button groups so I could more easily detach the control panel for maintenance and upgrades.
If I upgrade the sticks at some point I'll do that, though I might go for CAT5 network style cables and connectors to keep it tidy, and so the panel can be easily unplugged.
I did the CAT5 thing on my first panel. It'll be Molex for everything from here on out.
I did DB25 printer cable. I wouldn't do it again simply because of the ultra thin wires. Connection is great, but I hate working with thin wires. I will switch to molex or some other specialty connector and do a Neph grade wiring job on my next panel. I will also have to get a better crimper or switch to soldering. Even my cheap ass can't take $0.02 QD's fastened with a $1 crimper anymore.
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No spinner, never gets used.
Pffft send it to me, Arkanoid is my grail.
My First CP? that was like 15 years ago, pretty much everything was wrong. Never think the CP your building is perfect and always be willing to try and build a better one.
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I wish I'd added molex connectors to the sticks and button groups so I could more easily detach the control panel for maintenance and upgrades.
If I upgrade the sticks at some point I'll do that, though I might go for CAT5 network style cables and connectors to keep it tidy, and so the panel can be easily unplugged.
I did the CAT5 thing on my first panel. It'll be Molex for everything from here on out.
I did DB25 printer cable. I wouldn't do it again simply because of the ultra thin wires. Connection is great, but I hate working with thin wires. I will switch to molex or some other specialty connector and do a Neph grade wiring job on my next panel. I will also have to get a better crimper or switch to soldering. Even my cheap ass can't take $0.02 QD's fastened with a $1 crimper anymore.
Yeah, the ultra-thin wires is why I won't do CAT5 either. That's why I learned to do Neph-grade work and bought Neph-grade tools. I'll stick to hacking the wires off $10 JAMMA harnesses. :cheers:
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I don't think I am "missing" anything that would have been nice to have but if I could do it again, aka build a second one *cough*this summer*cough*don't tell the wife*cough* I would do the same layout, same type build, but make it out of nice furniture grade wood and use t-molding instead of rounded edges. Other than that, no changes necessary.
There are of course "nice to have" items like a spinner, track ball, or a 4 player CP but I hardly play games that require any of these and I am usually the only one playing so a 4-player would be wasted. Maybe I need cooler friends.... :)
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Things I wish I'd done differently:
1) Used a router instead of a jigsaw to cut/trim plexiglass
2) Ditto for rounded corners
3) Used laminate instead of paint (although TBH, paint isn't *that* bad when done right)
4) Taken time to do neater wiring
5) Top mounted joysticks (and made/used a template for cutting out the joystick mount)
6) Finished the controller BEFORE doing the wiring... it's true that once you wire it up, it will stay that way. ;D
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I made a frankenpanel and unlike most, enjoy it. But I never finished it. its 4 player (based on wanting to play 4 player Gauntlet) that i got lucky and didn't angle my 1st and 4th players. I wanted robotron (or at that time SMASH TV 2 player!). I also have a Trackball in the center, down low, which also was a lucky choice, i was thinking of a 4way there and the trackball above it. In the end I didn't install my 4way (yet) and I planned on a Tron Stick ( i have one of the Blue arcade ones alot of people modded with EL wire YEARS ago for this new in box) and my DOT push pull spinner made by Oscar? Again new in box... Even my trackball is sorta unfinished (it rolls left to right correct, but the Up down is mixed up, simple wire swaps, but never done. Once it was together and most of it worked.. it was moved into my living room and never finished 100%.. I did make the whole control box removeable.. so i can take it apart and finish it, but as most things. you get going on life and things get put on back burner.. heck its almost 15 years since I built it and its took that long for it to be joined by more (original) cabs.. Nowdays im looking at a video Pinball setup.. but I should finish the old original cab.
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1) I would not have angled my 3 and 4 player joysticks on my quad panel.
I thought I was the only moron who did that! What a bad idea, though.
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I'm thinking about a f12 button. Has anyone done this?
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Like some had already said... use the right tools.
There are two things that I don't like about my CP. One that will eventually be fixed by adding a metal brace to hide the ... not so straight cut next to the monitor. I had used a jigsaw to cut most of my stuff on my cab. the only apparent place is on the CP.
The other thing is I would have made the CP 1" deeper. It works the way it is, but I'd like to have it just a bit deeper for aesthetics.