Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: Tithis on April 17, 2014, 06:13:52 pm
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How many people here have done a tube swap on an arcade cabinet?
After I discovered an annoying scuff in the glass of the monitor that came in the machine I read about it and found out about doing tube swaps. It was a bit of a ride but I was able to find a pair of TV's with compatible tubes for 50 bucks. This weekend I plan to do the tube swap and then order a cap and flyback kit for it. I'm just curious if anyone else here has ever bothered doing a swap themselves.
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I've swapped CRT's in a hd front-screen projector before. It's a pita but it's doable. Mark the alignment of the coils etc before removal so you get sumwhat close to where they should be on reinstall.
Before starting, DISCHARGE THE CRT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
And prepare for quite a bit of adjustment after swap.
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Coils? You mean the yoke and purity/convergence rings? From what I've read the yokes on the two TV tubes should work with some adjustment of the chassis, namely replacing the width capacitor, so I shouldn’t have to touch the yoke. I'm going to measure the yokes resistance either tonight or tomorrow to know for sure. One of the tubes is a A63AFW32X and the guy in this video briefly shows it used in his other k7000 around 4:15
Tube Swapping a 25" Sharp TV to a 25" K7000 monitor (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9CALSP10ec#ws)
2nd one is a A63AFW36X so I'm hoping that will be compatible as well and I can keep it as a spare.
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Yes, sorry, meant yokes. I shouldn't post tired. :D
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I highly recommend avoiding a yoke swap if you can...
One of my machines came with all of the yoke wedges removed from the back of the monitor so I had to source new ones and re-converge the whole thing... not only was it a huge pain in the ass to do but after hours of tweaking I still wasn't able to get it perfect... and that's with the yoke still bolted in place I can't even imaging having to mess with it after a swap.
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My only other recommendation is to do the cap kit and flyback first and get it working on the old tube before you do the tube swap... that way, should anything go wrong, you have significantly fewer things to check-over.... that will also give you the best tube to tube comparison as you'll be able to see them both from a freshly tuned chassis.
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I have too !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpeNfu4c61Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpeNfu4c61Y)
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He glazed over a couple of basic points, One is those ohm readings he was doing were for the hor./Vert. windings (So no don't remove your yoke, just compare them to your old tube).... Two is didn't tell you not to grab a tube by the neck, the glass is thinner there and will break off, leaving you with a junk tube always grab it by the opposite corners being very careful of the neck, Three, nothing about safety concerns, I find this a little refreshing I get kinda sick about hearing about it all the time but it is a thing and be aware, And four, that pattern generator wasn't talked about much, they are very handy and quite cheap right now, a really good idea to have one.... Other than that no, he is not lying to you its as he said, pretty much a strait forward swap.