Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: DarakuTenshi on February 24, 2014, 09:50:51 am
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Ok I bought one of these deals:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41m%2BO7BjsgL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
A while back I also saw a post by another forum member that showed this is what they used and it almost caused a fire. How can I first of all know if I'm putting connecting the correct wire to the correct side so when I plug it in I wont have the polarities mixed.
The other things is how can I do this without causing a fire? I'm almost thinking about just running my power cord from my power strip right out the back of the cab... though I really don't want to do this.
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The fire was caused by a loose connection cord going from the wall INTO that socket. The idea was that the socket you have wasn't gripping tight enough and the cord slipped out until an arc was created. As long as you're not moving said cab around a lot where the inlet cord is being bumped or have that socket at an angle down you should be fine.
Wiring wise, the back of those guys usually tell you which is neutral and which is hot.
(http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/images/data/iecdiag.png)
So since you have the male socket, you would wire:
N to White - Neutral
L to Black - Load or HOT
E to Green - Ground
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Hey there,
After doing a quick Google search, here is a picture labeling each prong on the connector you have:
(http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/pix/iec-power-connector.gif)
If you don't trust me, you could always double check by doing a continuity test (set multimeter to resistance and check for connection between prongs on each end) with a PC Power Cable.
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MikeG2010/2012-05-05_032025_duplex.jpg)
That all being said, personally I would not use this type of connector unless you are plugging it into something which provides surge protection and overcurrent protection (like a decent-quality power strip).
Instead, I would use something like the following Power Input Module which is fused and switched nicely from the back of your cabinet.
(http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/medias/global/ce/5000_5999/5200/5210/5213/521361_LB_00_FB.EPS_1000.jpg)
Hope that helps.
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A while back I also saw a post by another forum member that showed this is what they used and it almost caused a fire. How can I first of all know if I'm putting connecting the correct wire to the correct side so when I plug it in I wont have the polarities mixed.
The fire was apparently caused by a loose/high resistance connection between the socket and an old power cord.
The C14 socket you posted should work fine.
With power connections, always verify that you have a good mechanical and electrical connection.
If you want to verify your connections are good, you can use a multimeter to test the resistance from the (unplugged) power plug that plugs into the wall outlet to the power supply connection/power strip. (<2 ohms is good)
If you wire it to a power strip, an outlet tester will tell you if it's wired wrong.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ruIGVdvcL._AA160_.jpg)
There's a wiki entry here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch) showing how to wire the connections for the switched/fused inlets.
Scott
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Thank you for all the replies. I may have to buy one of those outlet testers just to be on the safe side. I'm just hoping that after I cut into my Smart Strip that it will be easy to distinguish which wire goes where, but I think now-a-days everything is color coded.
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You can't always trust the wire colors.
"When in doubt, ohm it out." :lol
Measure from an always-on outlet on the strip.
Scott
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I suppose that's true