Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: WiZeR on November 25, 2003, 05:27:32 am
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I'm finally going to get my CP wired this w/e. I just wanted to ask what Gauge wire I need and what size disconnects.
Thanks
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You need .187 disconnects and I have never been too picky about exact wire gauge. I just always buy "game sized" wire. I know that probably makes no sense, but if you own a bunch of real games, then you can get the right gauge by sight alone. Thicker than the individual wires in a phone jack or network cable, but thinner than the wire in a power cord.
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You don't have to be too picky about your wiring, I've done up an entire prototype with 24-gauge phone jack wire before and it worked like a charm. 24-gauge is however harder to deal with and a little harder to get to look neat. I'd say the proper gauge would be between 18-22, I believe I did my cabinet with 18 gauge and it worked great. If your quick disconnect has too much room when you put the wire into the part to crimp, one trick my dad taught me was to double up the wire so when you put it in, your essentially putting in twice as much wire. If your worried about how clean it looks, theres a few key things to making your wiring look clean I've learned so far:
-repitition
-zip ties!!
-distinct color between controllers / sections
-make all the wires go to one central big zip tied wire, and bring that around the edges
the next project I do I think I'm gonna basically make it so that I can really practice up on making my wiring super neat. I'll probably go the Sirpoonga way and buy these like fish net things you can put around the cables, then clamp em to the sides of the control panel, and lay them out all color coded and nice. That extra 30 minutes of work will make the insides look SOOo much freakin nicer, so if you ever need to open it up you'll be like "Holy crap, I did this thing??"
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Commercial coin-op arcade game control panels are always done with either 20 or 22 gauge stranded wire. The quick disconnects are .187 as per JAMMA standard.
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I usually use category 5 ethernet wire, because it's free. I usually solder to the buttons and use screw terminals on the other end. Of course, if I ever need to swap out a button, I will need the soldering gun, but I really like to solder anyway. :-/
It gets back to the "Scotch Equation" -- stated as, "Would I rather spend my allowance money on _____ or some Scotch?" According to my reconing, the connectors loose. ;-)
Bob
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Wow, did the Cat5 wire work okay...I got a ton of cat5 wire...never thought of using that.
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cat5 is OK but not as flexible. Since it's solid core it's easier to get a break in the wire, but if you have it around, might as well use it.
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I usually use category 5 ethernet wire, because it's free. I usually solder to the buttons and use screw terminals on the other end. Of course, if I ever need to swap out a button, I will need the soldering gun, but I really like to solder anyway. :-/
It gets back to the "Scotch Equation" -- stated as, "Would I rather spend my allowance money on _____ or some Scotch?" According to my reconing, the connectors loose. ;-)
Bob
My only problem when I tried soldering to the microswitches is that I have a really powerful soldering gun, and the cheap Radio Shack solder I was using was physically burning the gold tin on the microswitches, so they were getting big black spots wherever I was soldering to. And the solder didnt seem to really want to stick either, so I highly suggest getting a 100 pack of .187 quick disconnects for like 8-9 dollars from Shucks or some auto parts place, its easy and all you need is a crimper and your ready. They also help clean up the look of the inside of your control panel because if they all face the same way or are somewhat symmetrical, your eye will catch that as organized. Look at some examples around the project announcements place, theres some really impressive work over there.
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thanks all. I also have a huge supply of cat5 so i'll go this route... oh and a pack of /187 disconnects
thanks again :D