Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: stigzler on November 18, 2013, 04:06:51 pm
-
Painting... blurgh... don't like this bit....
Using a paint sprayer to apply.
Have put on the primer/undercoat. Pic:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/mame/cab%20build/nov2013/Batch%202/resized/Rsz00027.png)
So... what should I use for the topcoat(s)? Gloss (gulp!); Vinyl Silk; Satinwood or Eggshell (can you get black eggshell!?)? I used Dulux diamond Trade White Eggshell on my doors at home some years ago - no fade - tough as donuts! Not bothered about 'piano finish.' Bit of sheen would be nice, but not too reflective.
Did some reading, but as ever - ended up more confused with many different answers and off-topics...
It can be any colour as long as it's black.
Oh, and preferably UK available!
Week off and really pushing hard to get cab finished (sure i've said that before). Wonder if I can get painting finished by end of tomorrow?
-
If you're planing to use it for your sides as well, and you plan to had adhesive sides, you'll want Gloss or Semi-Gloss. I typically use a Semi-Gloss Latex.
The key to remember is if you use Latex, you need to give it several days for the under-layers to solidify.
-
How about Rustoleum Black Satin.
I used that once on a cab and found I liked that the best for black. It's not too glossy or too flat.
-
If you're planing to use it for your sides as well, and you plan to had adhesive sides, you'll want Gloss or Semi-Gloss. I typically use a Semi-Gloss Latex.
The key to remember is if you use Latex, you need to give it several days for the under-layers to solidify.
Thanks Kahlid - I'm placing Vinyl artwork on the sides. Would also prefer a more quick-drying solution as well (I know, I know... bit of a cardinal to rush the paint job, but on a time limit!)
How about Rustoleum Black Satin.
Like the sound of this one, mgb. Problem is, the only one I can find is:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-Surface-Brush-Paint-Primer/dp/B008XGQF0W (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rust-Oleum-Surface-Brush-Paint-Primer/dp/B008XGQF0W)
Says got primer combined. I've already put on 2 coats of primer - would this matter?
Cheers for the responses chaps.
-
Checking alternatives -
Would using Outdoor wood/metal paint be a good approach. I'm guessing this stuff is quite durable and resistant to fading?
A lot of these @ 750ml - but not sure that'd cut it for two coats. So guessing I'm gonna need more like 2.5l (especially as I'm spraying)
Prob is - a lot of these £35!!! (Dulux)
What do you folks think to this as possibility:
http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/glosses-satins/Colours-Quick-Drying-Exterior-Satin-in-Black-13188673?skuId=13669419 (http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/glosses-satins/Colours-Quick-Drying-Exterior-Satin-in-Black-13188673?skuId=13669419)
Cheers
-
I don't think the fact that it has primer combined will hurt things.
-
OK - just to let others know for the future if in similar predicament.
Ended up going for Dulux Satinwood (water based) - got this mixed in B+Q (pick white off the shelf - choose your colour). Applied with Paint Sprayer so was a bit heart in mouth. Made sure thinned it enough for the sprayer first. Fantastic result - no runs - nozzle didn't clog - worked a treat.
Went for "Jet Black." Nice and solid - got chap in the store to put few extra dollops of the pigment in!
Only thing I'd advise is go for a 1 Liter can. I worried that wouldn't have enough + bought a 2.5l can. Did one entire pass on the cab and probably used 1/10th of the can!
Oh, also - choose your primer/undercoat well as well if spraying. On hindsight - think I chose a bad one to use with sprayers - nozzle/airjet holes kept getting clogged - dried paint in the nozzle felt latex-y.
Final finish wasn't piano-black smooth, but I quite liked it - uniformly slightly bumped (bit like the finish on coin doors) - gives it a nice solid looking texture. Like a hammered finish:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/mame/Painting/Resized/IMG_0181.png)
(This after one coat - coat 2 tomorrow!)
Hope this helps someone in the future!
-
Looks great. Hopefully some more pics as you proceed.
I know what you mean about buying more than you need.
I used 3m water based adhesive when I put the laminate on my cab. It was $30 a quart and I wanted to make sure I didn't run out while laminating. Man, I only used about 3/4 of one quart for the whole cab. And I went two coats.
-
OK - just to let others know for the future if in similar predicament.
Ended up going for Dulux Satinwood (water based) - got this mixed in B+Q (pick white off the shelf - choose your colour). Applied with Paint Sprayer so was a bit heart in mouth. Made sure thinned it enough for the sprayer first. Fantastic result - no runs - nozzle didn't clog - worked a treat.
Went for "Jet Black." Nice and solid - got chap in the store to put few extra dollops of the pigment in!
Only thing I'd advise is go for a 1 Liter can. I worried that wouldn't have enough + bought a 2.5l can. Did one entire pass on the cab and probably used 1/10th of the can!
Oh, also - choose your primer/undercoat well as well if spraying. On hindsight - think I chose a bad one to use with sprayers - nozzle/airjet holes kept getting clogged - dried paint in the nozzle felt latex-y.
Final finish wasn't piano-black smooth, but I quite liked it - uniformly slightly bumped (bit like the finish on coin doors) - gives it a nice solid looking texture. Like a hammered finish:
A few things, Latex can be applied again after the period on the paint can, usually 24 hours. What I mean by moving it is that ALL LATEX paint drys slower than oil, so it can take days for inner layers to dry. You're using a water based, which means it's latex. So don't move it. Most of the time it'll be fine, but sometimes you'll get a shift and boy will you be upset.
Never use primer in a spray gun unless it explicitly says it handles primer. Most spray guns you or I would buy from the store cannot handle primer, even latex primer. That is your issue with primer and your gun clogging. Primer always gets rolled on, regular paint can then get sprayed on unless you have a pro gun, and then you can spray primer. I also saw they now have consumer grade guns that "can" handle primer. I wouldn't honestly trust that but it might be fun to check into.
Glad to hear you like the end result. My $50 Wagner electric spray gun is the bomb as long as I follow the above. It's kind of a pain to have to roll primer on, but the end result is beautiful.
-
Thanks chaps.
Yeah, in retrospect, I think it was using the latex primer in my spray gun that produced the bumps on the finish. So.. lesson learned. However, as a stroke of enormous fortune, I quite like the hammered finish with the black and suits the theme of my cab.
My next is gonna be a white Wipeout cabinet. Now, for that, the finish has gotta be smoootthh.....