Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: ts on November 22, 2003, 08:54:04 pm
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I have received my Happs Super joysticks. Not a lot of documentation with these so as usual, I have a question. How do I make the joystick a 4-way from where it is now? Also is it common for the sticks to not come with any mounting screws? Or were those supposed to be ordered seperately. What size do you guys use. My cp is 5/8" thick before lexan. Hopefully close to 3/4" once the plexi is on.
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I was confused about this as well. You need to remove the clip and turn the hourglass-shaped piece of plastic on the bottom of the joystick shaft upside down.
good luck
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A super in 4 way mode still moves in 8 directions it just won't actuate the diagonals. Flip the hourglass to change it. Kind of a pain to switch back and forth. Thats what makes the new prodigy system sticks such a breakthrough. Those when you switch them physically restrict the stick to moving in 4 diretions.
They don't come with screws, depending on your CP you can use screws from the bottom or the prefered method is to use carriage bolts all the way through the panel. Depends on if you want them mounted solid enough to support the weight of your 300 pound cousin when he goes berzerk in street fighter or if you want the clean look of no exposed bolts and take the chance of that cousin ripping the joysticks loose.
Course you can keep a fire extenguisher handy and cool off any one that starts going berzerk on your cab. :)
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Either of you guys have a pic of what I am supposed to be flipping (the hourglass piece). I am having a devil of a time figuring out how to mount these. It seems I have extra parts. That is usually not good. I have the schematic you can get at happs site but am having trouble figuring out what goes above the panel and what goes below.?
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You can look at diagrams of happ products on their website. Here is the Super diagram:
(http://www.happcontrols.com/images/50/50608400_exploded.gif)
http://www.happcontrols.com/images/50/50608400_exploded.gif (http://www.happcontrols.com/images/50/50608400_exploded.gif)
The hour glass is in the lower left corner
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so the way they have it shown is for the 8 way setup. so flip it for 4 way.right?
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yes
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Also there are two sleeves (the black plastic tubes with the flanges on one end, the uppermost things in the "Kit" in the diagram). One is longer than the other. The short one is for mounting in metal CPs, and the long is for wood. That's why there are two places you could put the E-clip at the bottom of the shaft. The lower is for the longer sleeve (wood), and the upper is for the shorty (metal). You won't use both sleeves. It seems like there are extra parts because there are!
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I personally wasn't too impressed with the 4 way gameplay. After flipping the actuator I still notice you can hit the diagonals from time to time. If you play alot of 4 way games I would go with a 4way stick if you have room on your control panel or possibly an add on restrictor plate. Just depends what it's worth to you.
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I second the feeling about those sticks and 4-way games. I think the main thing is it still gives you a circular path for the joystick, it doesn't firmly click into the four directions like the arcade sticks did. That directional clicking is necessary for playing those games if you ask me.
Also, when you mount those joysticks... I'm not entirely sure about this, but I mounted mine so that the wood and plexiglass never got in the way of the joystick's travel, but I think maybe they were designed with the wood / plexi blocking them in mind. I notice my joysticks clicking on after only a small bit of travel, leaving a lot of extra room to push it farther after the switch clicks on. As a result it feels unresponsive, because when I try to "stop pushing joystick", it has to travel a good deal before the switch goes off. It also bounces back and forth quite a bit if I push it and let go, instead of pushing it and moving my hand back to center... I think that happens because it has that extra travel room.
I think I'll triple-check the way they're assembled tonight and make sure I didn't miss something when I built it.
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I second the feeling about those sticks and 4-way games. I think the main thing is it still gives you a circular path for the joystick, it doesn't firmly click into the four directions like the arcade sticks did. That directional clicking is necessary for playing those games if you ask me.
Also, when you mount those joysticks... I'm not entirely sure about this, but I mounted mine so that the wood and plexiglass never got in the way of the joystick's travel, but I think maybe they were designed with the wood / plexi blocking them in mind. I notice my joysticks clicking on after only a small bit of travel, leaving a lot of extra room to push it farther after the switch clicks on. As a result it feels unresponsive, because when I try to "stop pushing joystick", it has to travel a good deal before the switch goes off. It also bounces back and forth quite a bit if I push it and let go, instead of pushing it and moving my hand back to center... I think that happens because it has that extra travel room.
I think I'll triple-check the way they're assembled tonight and make sure I didn't miss something when I built it.
The way your describing them sounds like they are working correctly. If you don't think they are stiff enough you can replace the spring with a stiffer spring. You definately don't want the joysticks hitting the edges of the hole on the CP. If you want joysticks with shorter travel then you probably shouldn't have gone with Supers.