Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: kourampies on November 13, 2013, 09:17:51 am
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As discussed/found on this thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135480.0.html), I have the Star Vision SV-1901F chassis (29" Pentranic tube) on my OkBaby cabinet.
I cant find absolutely any info about the Chassis on the internet. Not even a single mention of it. For now I dont have the guts to remove the monitor assembly, and the cab is built in such a way that I cant take any useful pics of the chassis. The best I could do regarding pics is on the original thread. If someone wants to see a specific area, I could try squeezing a camera inside or something like that.
Anyway, the chassis works, and its stable (100% stable with a JAMMA board, bootleg SF2 in very bad shape, works fine after 1 or 2 mines with my temporary homemade crappy vga cable). When I got it the colors were completely messed up, but the built in degausser almost fixed that. Still it needs some degaussing with an external degausser, but thats to be expected. The geometry is mildly bad, theres a pincushion effect. Focus is also not perfect outside the center area, but i think this is related to the need of degaussing or the band pincushion. Theres a very light hint of red. The contrast is a little dim, but we ll have to wait until my video signal amplifier arrives. The contrast/colors were the same with the JAMMA pcb, but i dont think it can be trusted, because like a said, its a bootleg, and in bad shape.
The chassis has a remote adjustments board.
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/9599/f1vp.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/f1vp.jpg/)
Everything worked except from the H size which is always maxed out. I thought it was a faulty pot, but I replaced them all, and the H-Size remains maxed out. The cable and connection seems ok, the PCB gives correct resistance meterings with a multimeter on the pins that go to the H size pot.
The cable also seems ok at least on the side I can see.
Any info on this chassis and its problems is welcome. I plan to get the proper tools and courage to remove the monitor assembly sometime in the future and take some proper pics, perhaps even make adjustments, but until then any help with the chassis even in theory would be much appreciated.
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never heard of that make and I have working on arcade machines since 86.
It's probably some small chinese company.
The horizontal size issue could be down to a transistor or even the flyback,you would need a schematic to fix this
your best bet is to find a compatible replacement chassis,to do this you will need to read both the inductance and impedance of the deflection yoke,check the neck pinout and crt size,check the if the new chassis matches the input voltage and video frequency.Even then you need to hope that the heater current will be in range.
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never heard of that make and I have working on arcade machines since 86.
It's probably some small chinese company.
The horizontal size issue could be down to a transistor or even the flyback,you would need a schematic to fix this
your best bet is to find a compatible replacement chassis,to do this you will need to read both the inductance and impedance of the deflection yoke,check the neck pinout and crt size,check the if the new chassis matches the input voltage and video frequency.Even then you need to hope that the heater current will be in range.
I know in theory how to do all that. I just have to find the courage to remove the tube, discharge etc. Never done it before.
But what's the heater current?
I also have a 28" tube in excellent condition, from a TV with a broken flyback. Its 28" though, and my OkBaby has mounting and bezel for 29"... Can this be improvised?