Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: thehammer12 on November 04, 2013, 10:19:22 am
-
I pulled everything out of this old cab and its just filthy, can I wash the wires by hand with something? Degreaser?
Also, is there a way to tell if the transformer is good or bad? How do I clean that?
-
Blow them off with compressed air. Dust with a brush. Vacuum.
They sell Electronic Cleaner / Electrical Parts Cleaner at Walmart and most auto parts stores.
Its a spray can of stuff that dries real quick and does not leave residue.
(http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/07/82/54/05/0007825405103_500X500.jpg)
-
Sweet, ill go grab some at walmart.
Thanks
-
I use lighter fluid and a brush personally. Soap and water wouldn't hurt a thing in this situation.
Transformers rarely go bad. Just wire it up and check the lugs with a digital multi-meter for proper output voltages.
-
I use lighter fluid and a brush personally. Soap and water wouldn't hurt a thing in this situation.
Transformers rarely go bad. Just wire it up and check the lugs with a digital multi-meter for proper output voltages.
I do the same except the bit about lighter fluid. I don't care to use it much. I have a variety of other solvents one can use.
What you want is something that cuts the crud.
Don't forget to dry it carefully, this is where the volatile nature of lighter fluid comes in handy. Dries off quickly.
-
Ill try the electrical cleaner first haha, if not.....lighter fluid lol.
-
Simple Green does wonders with the decades old crud. Cuts right through it.
As long as you rinse it clean and dry it with compressed air and/or let it sit out, you should be fine. Emphasis on giving it loads of time to fully dry.
-
I use lighter fluid and a brush personally. Soap and water wouldn't hurt a thing in this situation.
Transformers rarely go bad. Just wire it up and check the lugs with a digital multi-meter for proper output voltages.
Same here but 91% ISO Alcohol. I keep a big squeeze bottle of it next to my solder station. Use it to clean flux. After tooth brush and alcohol I spay with compressed air.
-
We used 189 proof rum in the Caribbean. Cheaper than anything else. ;D
-
I use A 3 stage process... First hot water with a few drops of Ivory dish soap, (That gets most of the crud), Then a simple green bath, (thats for the buildups), Then on problem areas, a quick wipe/dry with Butyl acetate. (A fairly harsh thinner ) .... Then dry under heat lamp, (or bake in oven) to displace moisture.
-
Is it bad to soak the transformer? Or should I just use a spray bottle and a tooth brush.
-
I wouldnt get that wet, But a few rubs of fine sandpaper and some high temp engine /barbaque paint and the magnet edges will, look new again.
-
I use A 3 stage process... First hot water with a few drops of Ivory dish soap, (That gets most of the crud), Then a simple green bath, (thats for the buildups), Then on problem areas, a quick wipe/dry with Butyl acetate. (A fairly harsh thinner ) .... Then dry under heat lamp, (or bake in oven) to displace moisture.
I agree simple green worked well when I used it on my G07 monitor... look at the before and after pics...
-
Compressed air, Isopropanol + a warm damp rag, and q-tips for the hard to get-to areas.
With some patience, you can get your stuff looking like this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=273388)
-
I use A 3 stage process... First hot water with a few drops of Ivory dish soap, (That gets most of the crud), Then a simple green bath, (thats for the buildups), Then on problem areas, a quick wipe/dry with Butyl acetate. (A fairly harsh thinner ) .... Then dry under heat lamp, (or bake in oven) to displace moisture.
When giving the simple green bath, are you spraying it on there or pouring it on a rag?
-
Maybe Jennifer means an actual "bath", but what I usually do it a quick dusting and rinse to get any loose grime off. Then using a good spray bottle with a mix of water and simple green (if you get the big gallon jug it needs to be cut with water, I tend to go with a 1/3 - 1/4 mix of SG and water) I spray down the piece pretty well, the grimier the part the more the drenching. Do this over a large sink or outdoors. Let the stuff do its thing and it will cut through most, if not all, of the build-up.
Then a light rinse with water. No pressure to put force on any parts. I don't use any actual contact with say a towel or q-tips unless absolutely necessary. I'd do a second "bath" first and then hit any trouble spots with a blue disposable shop towel (tougher then paper towels, and doesn't leave lint) before the final rinse off. The hardest part then it to wait. You need to give the part time to be sure it is absolutely dry before doing any further work. You can follow up the water rinse with an Isopropanol (or similar fluid mentioned above) rinse to "get the wet out" of the piece. But even then I'd give it a couple days in a dry environment before I'd even think of messing with it.
It may be overkill, but I'd rather be sure then fry a freshly cleaned item. Plus I'm so busy with other things I can afford to leave an item sit and forget about it for a few days. ;) I've had awesome success so far with PCBs, Monitors, and some older power supplies. No damage to any parts yet, and they look just about factory fresh. Good luck!
(http://i.imgur.com/UgBEBCc.jpg)
-
The key to washing electronics is a LONG dry time. If I turn the hose on a filthy game PCB, I will let it dry for at least 2 weeks, as close to my dehumidifier as possible. Change that into a month if it is a monitor.
Also beware, the aquadag will come off sanyo (Nintendo) monitors if they get wet.
-
Yes a complete bath with a spray bottle in a clean cat litter box works good (although I dont do it on transformers) Its for boards and my favorite, wire harnesses, The mild clean start gets the dirt off, and the green gets the nasty, and the acetate is mostly for tape residue, (but will burn dirt in if not wiped dry immediately), the long dry times are truth, however Inferred heat, or a quick bake in the oven (dry without pushing moisture in by commpressed methods) also works... Those are some clean boards you guys have, Jennifer is all impressed. ;)
-
Compressed air, then douse / spray on Isopropyl 91%, letting the stuff slide the grime off the board. Do this a few times... then on to the real powerhouse:
Radioshack's Precision Electronics / Component Cleaner.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102649# (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102649#)
They sell this tiny white bottle, and its like 10$... but you dont need much of it in most cases. Its extremely powerful, eating through crud like a monster, and dries without a trace. Depending on the level of filth, it make take several sprays / douses, to completely renew the PCB / surfaces to 'brand new' looking status.
While its similar to the other electronics cleaner listed... Ive found that the RS version is a LOT more powerful, and produces much better results.
I tend to spray / douse the 2nd or 3rd passes, before the 1st has completely dried... keeping the grime moving, so it will slide it right off the board. I will hold the board vertical, to get this effect, and shake it if needed. Rotate the PCB if crud is getting trapped somewhere. At worst, use the little Scrubber tip they provide, to break down stubborn stuff while its wet. (and or just use a toothbrush) The works best with a standard spray-tube inserted into the nozzle... which tends to help focus the stuff, keeping a lot of it from evaporating too quickly / easily. It does evaporate slower than typical electronics cleaners... and if Ive done heavy waterfall spraying, I will use a hair dryer / heat gun to make sure that all the stuff has completely evaporated. I will then let the thing sit for a few hours to a day, just to play it safe.
Additionally, I use it for a lot of other misc uses. It softens & releases adhesive residue really nicely. (takes a few passes and a little scraping still) Cleans bearings internally of any hard frictional grease and soil (great for trackballs). Eats permanent marker marks. Eats thru the greasy dirty grime on mechanical parts.
-
Wow, there's a lot of helpful tips and techniques here......thanks everyone.
About to wash them right now.