Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Richardgregory on October 14, 2013, 09:47:58 pm
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Hi all. I've wasted 2 sheets of plexiglass so far as I'm trying to make an overlay for my control panel - some of the drilled holes are off a few mm, which results in the button not being able to go in. Correcting it I can make the hole larger but then the button doesn't cover the entire hole.
I'm using a forstener bit. I assume the best method is putting the control panel on top of the plexiglass, clamping both down and then drill - make the holes like that yes?
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Use your panel as a drilling template and clamp plexi between drilled panel and scrap piece of wood.
good day.
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I ended up drilling pilot holes using the slag-coin printouts as templates. I put a light under the CP, centered the template over the hole then drilled a center pilot hole in the dot.
It worked, all of my buttons fit with no added effort. If it's only off a hairline you could probably widen it just enough with something like a chainsaw file, and still not see the fix. I'm pretty sure I've accidentally drilled 1 1/4 holes and still been able to use buttons without seeing much gap. Of course if you are using LEDs, you'll want to just bite the bullet until you get it right.
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I clamp the plexi to the panel, then use a dremel to punch and cut out the hole.
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best way is to use a router...a V groove bit to plunge into the plexi to make pilot holes, then a flush trim bit to finish them. works great and doesnt crack....also, everything lines up perfectly with the wood
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Read this (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119165.0.html) thread by
Plastic Man Selfie. ;D
Scott
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When I made mine I first made pilot markings in the wood and then drilled out all the holes in the wood. Next I screwed the lexan to the wood and then removed the mandrel from the bit and drilled through the back of the lexan using the holes in the wood to hold the bit in place. Go slow or else you'll need to use an exacto to clean up the top edges of the holes. To make my artwork holes match, I placed the artwork on a glass table, taped it down and then lined up the lexan on top and taped that down. Next I used an exacto knife to careful remove the holes in the artwork. In the end, all holes matched and all hardware fit perfectly.
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best way is to use a router...a V groove bit to plunge into the plexi to make pilot holes, then a flush trim bit to finish them. works great and doesnt crack....also, everything lines up perfectly with the wood
+1 for the flush trim bit. Cut the plexi like hot butter for me.
I've also found that hole-saws actually work quite well in making holes in plexi without chipping and cracking.
This is what they look like, BTW: http://www.m3post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=806840&stc=1&d=1358032071 (http://www.m3post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=806840&stc=1&d=1358032071)
I was surprised at how well it worked, actually, because it seems like it would be too crude to work. I think it works because the friction heats up the plexi and softens it, making it just as much a "melt" as a "cut".
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Slower is better. If you are drilling plexi by clamping it to your Control Panel (With Art Work), take you time as the plexi can heat up and create little plastic balls that can wedge between your plexi and Control Panel, thus scratching the nice art work. Sandwiching the plexi between the Control Panel and wood stock will help prevent chip out.
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Any suggestions on how to best clean the little plastic bits that the router creates? I find that even with multiple cleanings the plexi seems to pick up these little bits like a magnet. They seem to be charged and stick to everything.
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Any suggestions on how to best clean the little plastic bits that the router creates? I find that even with multiple cleanings the plexi seems to pick up these little bits like a magnet. They seem to be charged and stick to everything.
You can uncharge the static cling with a dryer sheet.
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Any suggestions on how to best clean the little plastic bits that the router creates? I find that even with multiple cleanings the plexi seems to pick up these little bits like a magnet. They seem to be charged and stick to everything.
You can uncharge the static cling with a dryer sheet.
Any particular technique/method that you'd recommend?
Scott
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best way is to use a router...a V groove bit to plunge into the plexi to make pilot holes, then a flush trim bit to finish them. works great and doesnt crack....also, everything lines up perfectly with the wood
I'm going to side with this! After using hole-saws and following my cp drill holes, it was much easier just to drill a small pilot hole in the acrylic with a normal bit, and then router it flush with a flush bit using the CP as a guide. This will definitely be my go-to method for now on.
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Any suggestions on how to best clean the little plastic bits that the router creates? I find that even with multiple cleanings the plexi seems to pick up these little bits like a magnet. They seem to be charged and stick to everything.
You can uncharge the static cling with a dryer sheet.
Any particular technique/method that you'd recommend?
Scott
Seriously, just wipe the plexi with the dryer sheet. The shavings will release and come off. Also you can wipe the plexi pryor to drilling to keep the static from forming in the first place. Then you can (and I know I'm gonna catch hell for this one) take a balloon, blow it up, rub it on your hair and use like a static cling magnet for the shavings.
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I never had trouble drilling plexi, I use normal drill bits (not pointed) as they are somewhat round on the tip, and I set my drill to run backwards. I drill through at high speed and it kinda melts through.
Craig
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If using a regular drill (i.e. not router), I found that high speed + low pressure (so it melts like spystyle said) works the best. Pressing down too hard causes the cracking.