Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: dgame on September 05, 2013, 11:43:36 am
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On my 27” Wells Gardner D9200 I have a problem with the Red convergence in the top-center.
This Red in this area is higher than the other colors and causes the high score or power meter in many games to have a red shadow.
The center of the screen is almost perfectly aligned and the bottom corners are okay.
I have several of those convergence strips and while they can easily fix the corners, the top edge is difficult to adjust with the strips. I have to distort the top-right corner tremendously to get the red line to move closer to the others in the top-center edge.
I have read about tilting the yoke for edge convergence however the bottom is fine so wouldn’t tilting cause problems on the bottom?
Also which direction would that tilt need to be?
I also have some yoke wedges that I could try. Again, if so, which side to wedge?
So the question is how do I approach fixing the convergence in the top-center edge?
Please see the attached pictures.
Thanks!
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Do you have the service manual for the monitor? There should be an adjustment somewhere around the yoke for dynamic convergence.
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i wouldn't mess with it. at all. not a bit. don't. it'll make it worse someplace else.
the image typically gets worse in the corners and edges because of the ridiculous 100 degree corner the electron beams have to make exiting the neck to hit the edges of the tube.
it will NEVER be absolutely perfect.
stop staring at a crosshatch and play some damn games already. You'll NEVER notice the red is out 1/32". seriously. iv'e had monitors where the convergence is out over 1/4" over a third of the screen but you don't notice it at all in game. it's just the way it is. you want perfect crosshatch, go lcd.
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I disagree. There is probably a combination of static and dynamic convergence adjustments that can fix this. He just needs to know how to make those adjustments on his particular yoke. This might be some disc magnets, pots, etc. He just needs a good service manual, or help from someone who owns the same or a similar model.
Even if it is the case that it can't be fixed with compromising elsewhere, I would prefer it to be off by 1/64" at the top and bottom, rather than 1/32" just at the top.
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I still wouldn't mess with it. Wells had a major problem with the yokes getting brittle and breaking due to heat. open up that can of worms and it's a real mess to fix.
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I'm with lilshawn on this one. If you don't notice it when gaming, don't worry about. I have a 29" makvision and it is far from perfect....even after many adjustments. Nobody seems to notice when playing games so I have learned to live with "good enough".
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Thanks for the advice.
I ended up using a yoke wedge to lift the top right corner of the yoke and it brought the red down significantly. This did cause the red to be misaligned a little in the bottom right but it is workable. Now the red at least touches the white in all areas. The red does not stand out as much as before which is satisfactory.
:droid
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and that is usually what happens, you line it up one place and it goes out someplace else.
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Yes, you guys called it and you were all correct. I went with the compromise as suggested by rCadeGaming and now it is "good enough." I don't notice it when playing games. Thanks again. :cheers:
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Nice work. :cheers:
To the naysayer's, no you can't always make it perfect, but you can usually still find a better compromise. Why not try something, have some fun, and maybe learn a little in the process. No need to be so discouraging.
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it'll always end up being a compromise. buy like you said, being a 1/64th out at the top and bottom is potentially better than being an 1/32nd out in one spot...or an 1/8th or wahtever.
convergence is a real can of worms. you loosen off the yoke, tweak it a "C-hair" and you end up in a world of acid...you end up staring at crosshatch for hours till white looks pink...it's burned in your eyes so bad. trust me, I spent DAYS fixing this POS mess after it got knocked around :lol
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Well, I pick up old 15kHz TV's to try this stuff out on, some of them even for free. I can see how it's more intimidating if you're working with a rare or expensive arcade monitor that's hard to replace.