The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: DaOld Man on September 02, 2013, 09:04:12 pm
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Hello Folks.
I have a sister named Gayle, and she lost her only daughter in an auto accident back in February of this year.
Well, Gayle is still having a hard time with the whole mess (and who wouldn't). So I decided to build her a juke box to maybe take her mind off things for a bit.
I have decided to build another Mountain Jukebox design, sort of like the one I built 5 years ago for my wife. (Brendas jukebox, link to that project in my signature below.)
I was going to wait until I got it finished then post it on here, but I figured what the heck? I could probably use the encouragement and suggestions I know you guys will give me.
Ok, to start off, this is going to be basically the same as the last one I built, with a few modifications.
I got another touchscreen 15" like the last one, except this one has a plastic bezel.
I tried removing the bezel and that didn't work, so I have designed this new jukebox to account for the bezel.
I am using a mini ITX motherboard. Foxconn 45CTP with 512 meg DDR2 ram (I will probably change this to a least a gig before Im done).
I placed a small fan above the CPU, it was getting too hot for my comfort, permanent will probably be a smaller one, but Im definitely going to mount one to the CPU heatsink
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295834;image)
Motherboard connected to monitor (don't know if you can see the bezel I was talking about on the monitor.)
WinXP installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295836;image)
I will post some more pics soon, BYOAC says the pcs Im uploading are too big, so I need to resize them.
So stayed tuned.
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A shame about what happened to your sister my condolences. WRT the build keep the CPU as cool as possible. I notice it has a fan which probably came with it but sometimes a bit more air flow is required.
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Hey DaOld Man, good to see you still building :)
I too made a juke in that period for my parents, back then there where no tablets.
Now my parents have a tablet and the juke doesn't get used much anymore, shame really. but its just to much of a hassle to start a simple song
If i would make a juke again, i would buy a cheap large screen tablet, and integrate that into the juke.
One of the main benefits is that it you get rid of the pc boot times, and many (if you use android tablet) nice jukebox apps
examples
http://www.appszoom.com/android_applications/music_and_audio/easy-jukebox_bzgvu.html (http://www.appszoom.com/android_applications/music_and_audio/easy-jukebox_bzgvu.html)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appfactory.jukeboxhero&hl=nl (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appfactory.jukeboxhero&hl=nl)
Integrating a tablet means decasing it and wiring things up to the smd parts on the motherboard, you need some soldering skill.
That + a nice speaker set will give a 2013 proof juke.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck!
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Thanks BobA.
That MB actually came with no fan at all. I just sat that case fan on there because the CPU heat sink was getting a little too warm for me.
Martijn its nice to hear from you, yes I remember your build, it was about the same time I built my last one.
I like your idea of using a tablet, but I already have the front part of the frame cut to fit that monitor I bought. Already have a lot of work and time invested. I wish I had thought of the tablet before I bought the touchscreen and the motherboard. Will have to remember that if I ever decide to do another juke.
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Ok, good luck then. you should get a ssd then and set windows to hibernate. That should speed things.
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Thanks, I have been thinking of an SSD, don't have one yet. So those really improve boot time?
I cant sleep, and don't have to work today, so I resized a few of the pics.
Here is the front and back frames, sitting on the bottom plate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295866;image)
Sorry about the quality of some of these pics, looks like I lost some clarity when I resized them.
Here is same pose, different angle:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295868;image)
Notice the blocks I added to the sides of the front? These are to mount the monitor I mentioned earlier. More on this later, with hopefully some better pics of the monitor.
I am going to add a DVD player like I did on the last build (I will call that last build "Brendas" from now on, just to save me some typing). Here is the slot for the DVD drive cut out in the back frame.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295870;image)
And the DVD drive (from a laptop), test fitted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295872;image)
I plan to use two usb plugs (like I installed on "A Little Rage" [link in my signature]). Here are the holes cut for them, beside the DVD drive.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295874;image)
I made a small plate out of black acrylic (same stuff I will use on the front) to mount the two usb plugs in, just to give it a sharper look. (Still got to polish the edges of the plate.) Here it and the usb plugs are, test fitted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295876;image)
And now, the back.
I plan to have a removable back. I need to back up for a minute. This juke box is made from 1/2" MDF (well, the internal frame, bottom and speaker box will be.)
I glued some 1/4" MDF to the inside of the back piece, then routed it out to form a lip.
I then cut the back out of 1/2" MDF. The back will fit against this lip and hopefully will be flush with the outside of the back frame.
I ran out of 1/2" MDF, but I had some scrap pieces left. Hopefully it will be enough to make the speaker box, but I didn't have any pieces big enough for the back, except one piece I had been using as a table.
So I did what any BYOACer would do, I used the makeshift table.
This piece has holes bored in it, a couple of router slots, and even some spray paint overspray (anyone recognize the Little Rage coin door image?)
I plan to cover this with laminate and I still got to cut out for air holes, so I plan to sand it down and slap some laminate on it. Just hope the paint doesn't affect the laminate glue.
Ok here is the back, test fitted in the back frame.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295878;image)
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Absolutely will an SSD improve boot times. Now that you can pick up an SSD for < $50 USD, there's no reason not to use one.
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+1 on SSD boot times.
Put a 64GB Crucial M4 in both my visual pincab and the CNC computer and both take less than 20seconds to boot from power button push to the desk top.
One note before you buy, SSD's, at least when they first came out, varied drastically on their performance depending on what firmware version they are running. Once you decide on the SSD you want, go to the manufactures website and find out the last firmware release, write it down and take it with you when you buy. This way you can ensure you are getting the latest and greatest. I am sure you are capable of flashing a new firmware, but I find it good practice to do this with all my computer parts, especially mobo's and SSD's, saves me bricking them due to a failed upgrade.
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Thanks guys, Im seriously thinking of the SSD, but I have a regular hard drive Im not using. So I may put the SSD on the back burner until I get this baby working, then I may decide to go with the SSD to speed up boot.
I didn't do anything today, got a sore throat and felt like crap (pretty sure it's allergies).
Last night I did get the area for the USB plugs routed, so that I can recess them.
I got a little wild on the left side and had to use a little bondo.
Here is the routed -out recess:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295985;image)
Here is the test fit. I like this a lot more, but note that the plastic trim piece I made needs to be cleaned up and polished.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295987;image)
More to follow.
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Quick update.
Test fitting monitor into front frame.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296195;image)
Close up of the monitor bezel (as viewed from back) I was talking about earlier:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296197;image)
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Thanks guys, Im seriously thinking of the SSD, but I have a regular hard drive Im not using. So I may put the SSD on the back burner until I get this baby working, then I may decide to go with the SSD to speed up boot.
I didn't do anything today, got a sore throat and felt like crap (pretty sure it's allergies).
Last night I did get the area for the USB plugs routed, so that I can recess them.
I got a little wild on the left side and had to use a little bondo.
Here is the routed -out recess:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295985;image)
Here is the test fit. I like this a lot more, but note that the plastic trim piece I made needs to be cleaned up and polished.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295987;image)
More to follow.
Looking good man, can I ask a question? Where did you buy those use adapters plugs? Can find them anywhere
Cheers
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Thank you felix!
I have had those usb plugs for a couple months, but Im pretty sure I bought them off ebay.
Just search for NAUSB-W-B USB
I think I got them from ebay user 'usbargainsound'.
Link to a four pack:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330743826043?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D330743826043%26_rdc%3D1#ht_599wt_932 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/330743826043?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D330743826043%26_rdc%3D1#ht_599wt_932)
Sorry about the long link, Im at work and cant remember right off hand how to do it right. I will try to fix it later.
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If you don't need a 4-pack, you can buy them individually at Focus Attack (http://www.focusattack.com/neutrik-nausb-wb-ab-usb-feed-through-black/), Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70088377), or Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Neutrik/NAUSB-W-B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMulM8LPOQ%252bykxlHbbYuR%252bstsmPHmVkZjMM%3d).
They also come in nickel. (P/N NAUSB-W)
Scott
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Awesome to see you at it again, you never stop man! Keep it up. Hope it does the job and gives your sis some joy!
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Love that trim piece.
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Thanks guys!
Got some critical monitor mounting methods worked out today.
I looked everywhere to try to find a good way to mount the monitor to the two 1/2" mdf pieces glued to the sides of the front.
I finally decide to do what this site stands for, and build my own.
I started by cutting some 3/8" schedule 80 pipe, 1/2" long (4 pieces).
I then drilled a hole in the side of each piece and tapped the holes for a 10/32" bolt.
This is a picture of the pieces, with one bolt threaded in to give you an idea.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296724;image)
I still need to clean up the pieces and will probably paint them, since they are made from carbon steel pipe, and carbon steel is prone to rusting, if not painted or coated.
I then placed the monitor in the front, and laid out two pieces of 1/2" aluminum U beams. (Sorry no pics of this, but I will get some soon.)
The U beams will mount to the VESA mounting holes in the monitor (4 mm), and span across the back to either mdf side piece.
A 10/32" bolt will then fasten the U beams to the mdf pieces, by going into the center of the mdf (I need a name for these pieces), and into the home made nuts. The nuts insert into the sides of the un-named mdf pieces.
This photo of the test fit should explain it more than I can:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296726;image)
Image the 2 U beams going across to attach to both mdf pieces, and the back of the monitor attaching to the U Beams through its VESA mount.
I also plan to either glue or bondo the nuts into the unnamed mdf pieces to keep them stabilized, and perhaps add strength to the mdf pieces.
I will do this after the nuts are completely de-burred, cleaned and painted.
Stay tuned.
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Glad you finally posted it here, as always, great job so far. :applaud:
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Thanks Paul!
Just a quick update. No pictures today.
I cut out a back out of a new piece of mdf (I really didn't think you guys were going to let me slide on that piece of a make shift workbench that I first cutout.)
Im not real happy with the monitor nuts I devised, so I may scratch that idea and try something else.
Im just about ready to glue the front and back frame parts to the bottom.
Need to decide what I want to do about the monitor nuts first.
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The nuts you put together for the monitor look a lot like the nuts they make for knockdown furniture. Perhaps something like the link below is an option.
http://woodworker.com/14-20x13mm-steel-cross-dowel-mssu-812-613.asp (http://woodworker.com/14-20x13mm-steel-cross-dowel-mssu-812-613.asp)
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Thanks jbenesh, I saw those at Lowes, but the smallest size they had was for a 1/4" bolt. (That's actually what gave me the idea for the home made ones.)
Since the MDF piece is only 1/2" wide, I was afraid there might not be enough "meat" on either side of the bolt, (1/8" on each side of the bolt).
But now that I think about it, I will have one side of these MDF pieces glued to the skin that goes around the outside of the juke, so it may be strong enough.
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Ok, I think I have decided to keep the home made nuts.
Here is a test fitting of the monitor in the front frame.
Backside:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296831;image)
And front side:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296833;image)
Notice the small clearance between the plastic monitor bezel and the edge of the MDF? This needs to be flush, so I will have to use some shims between the monitor and the U-beams (or channels), in the back of the monitor. Shouldn't be a big deal.
Next up: Drill holes in bottom to mount hard drive, glue bottom to front frame, then drill mounting holes in back frame for back panel, and glue it to the bottom. (I got some interesting stuff coming up for the bottom, so stay tuned.)
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You probably thought of this already but a washer or two on the vesa mount screws between the monitor and the c-channel would probably solve your issue easily.
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You probably thought of this already but a washer or two on the vesa mount screws between the monitor and the c-channel would probably solve your issue easily.
Good idea!!
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You know, I have a touch screen that's still in the box, which I dare not take out because the last thing I need is another project to prevent me from completing my Cabinet. Looking forward to more pictures.
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Oh come on Paul, you know you need another project. LOL
Ok, just a quick update on my latest project.
I have laid out the LED strip (from superbrightleds.com) on the Marquee back. Just playing around, trying to get the idea I need to mount the strip.
Since this pic, I have primed and painted the marquee back.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297550;image)
Here is a test fit of my display router guide, placed in the front frame and matched to the monitor:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297812;image)
Those of you who followed my last juke, Brenda's Jukebox, will know what I have in mind. For those of you who don't have any idea what I'm up to, I will use this router guide to cut out the acrylic on the front. (More to follow.)
And here is test fitting wood dowels to the front frame, and marquee back partially fitted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297816;image)
The marquee back will slide more toward the front frame, I had to drill out the dowel holes a bit, it was too tight.
Since these pics, I have primed and painted black the inside parts of the front frame, back frame, and marquee back.
The marquee front, and marquee part of the front frame have been primed, and not painted, since the primer is white, I am thinking it might enhance the marquee led strip lighting.
I will attempt to take more pics soon.
I would like to add that I now have an iPhone 5. It makes picture taking much easier, using "Dropbox" (a free download, google it), pictures I take are readily available on my PC, which also has Dropbox installed. If you have a smart phone, check out Dropbox, it makes taking and transferring pics a lot easier. (Ok, I will go sell my Dropbox stocks now. LOL)
Stay tuned.
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I forgot one more pic.
Here is the new back, test fitted into the back frame.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297814;image)
I have the cutout for the back vent grill.
Notice the boo-boo to the left of the power on button cutout?
The router got away from me. (Bad Router! It's electricity has been cut off for a day or two as punishment.)
Luckily for me, the back laminate will cover this.
(Im going to use the same router guide for this as I will use for the marquee.)
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Worked on the Marquee light today.
I am using a led strip from Superbrightleds.com.
I am mounting the strip to a 3/4" wide flat aluminum bar. This should make it easy to install and remove, after the jukebox is done.
Here it is mounted to the Marquee back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297850;image)
I used the plastic clips that the website sells to mount the strip.
I drill a hole in the center of the clips, and bolted them to the aluminum bar.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297852;image)
I used 4-40 bolts and nuts on the plastic clips.
I drill a hole in the marquee back deep enough to allow the 4-40 bolts to go in, and a larger hole near the top to allow the nut to go in, so the aluminum strip will sit flush against the marquee back.
I then drilled and tapped 8/32 bolt holes in each end of the strip, so cap head bolts will hold the strip and allow me to easily remove it by taking out the two cap bolts and lowering the strip down and out.
When installing the strip, the holes for the 4/40 bolts will allow them to act as line up pins.
Here is a pic of the marquee back, with another coat of white primer. You can probably make out the recess holes for the 4-40 bolts and nuts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297854;image)
And here is the other side of the marquee back.
Here you can see one of the cap (or socket, or Allen) bolts.
These bolts will be easily accessed from the back of the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=297856;image)
The weather today is really sucky. raining and chilly. (55-60 degrees F), so I didn't get a lot done.
Stay tuned.
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Got a little more done today.
I think I am just about ready to install the front and back frames to the bottom panel.
Here is a shot of the front and back.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298273;image)
And the bottom panel.
I decided to add a air vent hole beneath the DVD drive. I didn't really have a problem with the first juke, but I do know that DVD drives get pretty warm. So this hole should allow fresh air to come in around the drive. I also added a block at the rear of the drive to hold it level. There will be a 0.250" space between the air hole and the bottom of the drive. Should be enough to allow air flow around the drive.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298275;image)
And I went ahead and cut out two marquee glasses (not glass but plexi.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298277;image)
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Ok, just a quick update.
Got the front and back frames glued to the bottom of the juke.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298322;image)
Notice the jar of silver change and the cup of pennies? No, these are not my life savings, (I wish LOL). This is the change jar that collects my end of day change for my grand daughters. Here they are serving as counter weights to keep the juke from tipping due to the weight of the c clamps.
And I got the marquee back mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298454;image)
You can see the cup of precious pennies. (My precious!)
Today the laminate I ordered came in (Lowes said it would be OCT 28, so I got a surprise call today.) The laminate is Wilsonart 1595-60 BLACK.
I also got the mounting for hard drive and power supply worked out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298452;image)
The pic shows the Power Supply seat clamped with the ole ACME C Clamp, waiting for glue to dry. You can see the grand daughters' college account coming in handy again. LOL
I primed most of the bottom, this explains the frog tape. I plan to Primer the Power Supply seat (kinda looks like a sofa don't it?), and paint the bottom black.
Directly behind the Power Supply seat is where I plan to mount the hard drive. I have two holes drilled, plan to use same method I used on Brendas Jukebox to mount the hard drive.
More to follow.
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She's starting to come together.
Got the mount for the power supply worked out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298549;image)
I used a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum to form a bracket. The PS sits in the aforementioned seat, and the bracket holds one corner. It worked out pretty good. PS is sturdy and doesn't move in any direction.
Here is another angle:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298551;image)
Notice the hole in the seat? I had originally planned to run a cable tie (plastic grippy thing that cops use as handcuffs) through the hole and around the PS, but I decided I didn't like that, so I fabbed the bracket. I can still use the cable tie, but I don't think I will need it.
You can also see how the seat holds the PS up off the bottom, and allows a channel for the wires to lie in.
The "back" of the seat keeps the PS from going back (or front towards the monitor)
The bracket is attached to the bottom of the juke with 2 8-32 bolts, screwed into T nuts. These bolts were too long so I used some spacers for the test fit. I got to pick up some 8-32 bolts 1/2" long.
The T nuts are recessed in the bottom.
I used wood glue to fill in top of the nuts, this will hold the nuts tight until I get the laminate on.
Here is a pic of that. I used T nuts and wood glue on the PS mount and the hard drive mount.
Remember this will be covered with laminate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298553;image)
No pic, but I got the inside of the bottom spray painted black. Spray paint looks good, but it's a pain trying to keep it off surrounding areas. I guess I love spray paint, Im just not in love with it. :laugh:
Now I got to sand down some rough areas and I think this girl is ready for some skin.
BTW, I also got the skin cut to size, it's ready to apply.
Stay tuned.
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Ok, I got good news and bad news.
First the good.
Got everything ready for the first layer of skin. Here is the front, Im using the monitor cutting guide to add strength.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298571;image)
And the back, using the back door to add strength to it. Also ran frog type around the edge of the back door to keep the frame from pinching it too tight.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298573;image)
Frog tape works great as a temporary fastener too.
Here's a shot of the inside bottom, with the grill for the DVD air vent installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298575;image)
I plan to touch up the paint job after the skin is installed, but will use brush on paint.
Now the bad news sports fans:
I bought this panel to use as the skin. It is not the same as what I used on my last juke, but I thought it would work.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298577;image)
I wanted a record of what it is, so I took a pic.
I laid the skin out on the table, scuffed it up a little with sandpaper and wiped it good. Laid the juke on its side on top of the skin.
I thought I would try the bend before I put any glue on it. (Good idea).
As I bent it around the juke, and pressed down against the frame, I heard a loud snap.
Oh no, I though that couldn't be good.
My first thought was that the frame broke. But luckily it was the skin. It couldn't handle a radius bend such as this.
I laid it out in the sun for a while to get it hot and tried to bend it and it snapped again.
So this skin is not going to work. Oh well, maybe I can use it to cover my workbench.
Maybe the "tempered service" on the tag should have been a clue for me?
I have a piece of the stuff I used before, but it's not enough to do even one layer, but I have a sample I can take with me to the store.
This has set me back a bit, cause I got to work this weekend, but it could have been a lot worse.
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Sucks that you hit a bump in the road, but at least it wasn't a mountain. I'm digging this build, man. I hope to try my hand at a juke one day so look out for annoying questions.
Looks good.
:cheers:
Thanks Louis. Good luck on your next build, be glad to help if I can.
Also, I have router guides for the marquee and both styles of monitors already built, if you decide to do this Mountain design.
I also have a router guide for the speaker bar.
Welcomed to borrow them if you need them, may save you some time.
I also messed up my first front frame that I made (had to make another), but that could be used as a router guide to cut out the curved part of both the front and back. The top part, with the marquee cutout too, should be OK to use as a template. I intend to save that part for future builds (Groan).
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She's starting to come together.
Got the mount for the power supply worked out:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298549;image)
I used a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum to form a bracket. The PS sits in the aforementioned seat, and the bracket holds one corner. It worked out pretty good. PS is sturdy and doesn't move in any direction.
Here is another angle:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298551;image)
Where would the World be without aluminum flat stock. ;D
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I agree DP, aluminum has been very very good to me.
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Ok, just a little update on the skin condition. (sorry).
I found the board I used before as skin for the juke.
It is Eucaboard.
Here is a pic for reference later:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298742;image)
I am pretty sure I bought it a few years ago for my first juke, Stevies Jukebox, at Lowes, but they do not have it now. I couldn't find any other type of board that I thought might work. So I went to Home Depot, and luckily they had it.
The info on the web about Eucaboard said that it is meant to be used like wall paneling. It also said to leave it in the room where it is to be installed for at least 48 hours, to allow it to acclimate, before installing.
So after I cut it to size (12" by 54" long, I brought it in the house with the frame.
I tested it for bendability, and even though it is stiff, it did pretty good. (no loud snap, and Im extremely happy for that.)
I decided to wrap it around so that maybe it will form to the shape, hopefully making it easier to glue to the frame later.
This pic shows it wrapped loosely, with a wire holding it on the frame:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298856;image)
I then placed some books on top to flatten it against the frame pretty close to where it will be when glued (except it needs to be more centered with the frame width wise, but Im trying to put a curved form in it right now.)
Sorry for the blurred pic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298858;image)
Now I have got to concentrate on the volume control knob, I may need the room to work on it so Im holding off for a bit on gluing the skin down.
Does anyone have a bad griffen powermate they want to get rid of real cheap?
All I need is the knob. I couldn't get the one I had to work consistently on Brendas Jukebox, so I just used the knob and a pot. The knob on the powermate is perfect for this design, but Im having a hard time finding one like it.
Thanks for looking and stay tuned.
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Like this
http://www.aliexpress.com/cp/compare-large-aluminum-knob.html (http://www.aliexpress.com/cp/compare-large-aluminum-knob.html)
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good move to get the skin board trained to the shape of the curve- that will make it a lot easier when you glue it up. That power supply looks bigger than ATX - is it powering an audio amplifier or something? where did it come from?
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Thanks guys.
Jimmy, I am hoping the eucaboard will form to the curve, I gotta work tonight so I may take the skin off when I get home and see how it does.
That power supply is a "slim line" Athena Power AP-MTFX30 300W TFX12V
It has regular ATX motherboard P4 power connectors, IDE and SATA connectors.
It's not the same one I used in Brendas Jukebox, but I couldn't find that one, Im thinking this one may be better anyway, it's a little smaller length wise.
Newegg link (link might be dead in the future):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338056 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817338056)
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Thanks radblack, that is very similar to what I need, similar enough to work perfectly!
I like the $3.50 price, but the shipping to USA is $27.95??
That's crazy. I can buy a griffen powermate over here for that price or close to it.
Thanks for the link though, maybe I can refine my search using that info to find one over here, and please let me know if you find one where shipping (to USA) is not so high.
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Crap my bad, didnt get to the shipping piece of it...will do...
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Here ya go bud, much better.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-48x22mm-SOLID-Aluminum-VOLUME-AMPLIFIER-TEST-KNOB-hy-/300942758729?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4611961349 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-48x22mm-SOLID-Aluminum-VOLUME-AMPLIFIER-TEST-KNOB-hy-/300942758729?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4611961349)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1pcs-48x22mm-SOLID-Aluminum-VOLUME-AMPLIFIER-TEST-KNOB-hy-/00/s/MzMxWDUwMA==/z/ZOQAAOxy66pRxASK/$(KGrHqVHJCkFG+KyLeD5BR)!SJbymQ~~60_3.JPG)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-48x22-Aluminum-Volume-Control-KNOB-CD-Amplifier-potentiometer-fit-ALAPS-/330937860330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0d6f00ea (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-48x22-Aluminum-Volume-Control-KNOB-CD-Amplifier-potentiometer-fit-ALAPS-/330937860330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0d6f00ea)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1pcs-48x22-Aluminum-Volume-Control-KNOB-CD-Amplifier-potentiometer-fit-ALAPS-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/3hQAAOxyGStRtWG4/$(KGrHqJHJDkFG1!v9g9bBRtWG4bpY!~~60_57.JPG)
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Go to ebay and type this into search - aluminum volume knob
All sizes come up, so you have a good choice, and prices+shipping are reasonable.
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Hey thanks man, I appreciate it. I am liking the second one you posted. I am a little scared of it shipping from Hong Kong, because of the time it will take, but I may go ahead and bite the bullet.
If I go with this one, I can go ahead and do the mounting method, because I will know the size the knob will be.
This forum is a great resource. I know I would be out in the weeds without it.
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Narrow the search to U.S. only, another may pop up in the states although price may be higher.
Yeah, I would order now, November and December is when HK starts having all their holidays and shut down for weeks at a time.
I do it all the time, takes about 21 days on the norm, however, I order from this one vendor, and his stuff take like a week and a half, I have no idea how, but its fast.
Good luck and hope i helped you move forward on this work of art. :cheers:
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I bought a pair of those aluminum knobs on eBay for less than $10 shipped each time from China. Only took like two weeks.
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Nice work so far. I like how you mounted that monitor. Aluminum is a great idea. I may try that on a build I will be doing soon.
Ok, I think I have decided to keep the home made nuts.
Here is a test fitting of the monitor in the front frame.
Backside:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=296831;image)
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Thanks WP34. I like the aluminum too, and its readily available in a variety of sizes at Lowes.
I used a similar mounting method for "A Little Rage", but this method is cheaper, and simpler because of fewer parts. But in defense of my other method, the clamps and EMT tubing make adjusting the monitor side to side very easy.
Ok, I ordered the 2nd knob that rablack97 posted. I couldn't find any here in the states, so I had to go the Hong Kong route. Supposed to be here in 7-14 days. But we will see.
I think the hole for the volume knob is too large, so I made a doughnut to glue inside of it to make the hole smaller.
Cut the doughnut out of 1/2" MDF, using my circle cutting jig.
The only problem was that I couldn't get the circle cutter down to a small enough radius to cut the inside hole.
So I used a spade bit in my drill press. trouble is the bit walked on me, so the inside hole is not exactly center, so I have an off center hole.
This I do not like.
So its back to the drawing board to see if I can modify my circle cutter to get exactly what I want.
Here is a pic. It's not glued in yet. The white you see around the edge is the primer. I may have to sand this down to make sure the glue holds the doughnut good.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298938;image)
More to follow.
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Here is how I am going to retain the marquee glass.
I am using screen door clips, they come with 8/32" thumb bolts.
I used T-nuts to hold the bolts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298940;image)
And a view from the front.
You can see where I used bondo to fill in above the T nuts.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=298942;image)
I am going to have to touch up the scratches in the marquee back. I used chrome spray paint to act as a reflector. I think I laid it down on something before it totally dried, leaving a few ugly marks. looks like I have some finger prints in it too. Must have been in a hurry when I painted it.
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Ok just a quick update.
Ive been very lazy lately (blaming it on the weather), but I did make a little forward movement since last post.
Im waiting on the volume knob to get here. I went ahead and ordered another, slightly different design but same size, from amazon.com. Hopefully I can make sure everything in that area fits, and change the knob when the one from hong kong gets here. Or I may decide to keep the one from amazon.com.
I got to thinking that maybe the hard drive needs a vent like the dvd drive, so I added two holes where it will mount.
This should let the air from out side come in around the drive.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299195;image)
There will be about 1/2" gap between the top and bottom boxes, so I think it will allow air to flow between them and into the vent holes.
Im also hoping the fan I install in the bottom, blowing up, will provide a draft that will help draw the air into these vents.
I also made another donut for the volume hole. This time I used a hole saw for the center cutout, and it stayed very close to center.
I measured no more than .02 mm of thickness difference around the edge of the donut.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299197;image)
Havent glued it yet. Still haven't made my mind up. If I use a pot, this will work, but if I use the powermate I have (the guts left over from my last juke project), then this donut inside hole wont be big enough.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299199;image)
I had a lot of trouble getting this thing to work last time, but I am thinking about trying it again. If I use it I will lose the donut and hope there is enough MDF to securely hold the acrylic front. I think it will be enough, but I don't plan to waste a lot of time with the powermate, plus I don't think the shaft will fit the knob I ordered.
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Another quick update.
Applying first skin. (no turning back now.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299205;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299207;image)
I used a 2X4 turned edgeways to get the skin nice and square against the juke bottom.
Applied a generous amount of wood glue to the frame, then set the frame on top of the skin.
Tried to leave about the same width of skin (or overhang) on each side, though this will be cut off anyway.
I then used a piece of eucaboard I had left over from last juke, just to spread the weight a bit, placed on top of the frame. Then a couple of scrap 2X6s and then I laid a heavy weight (about 80lbs). To top it all off, my drill went on top.
The glue is currently setting up. After an hour or so I will probably bring it in the house, because the temperature outside is already starting to cool down, then tomorrow I will wrap the skin around and glue the other side.
One more shot of the interior.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299209;image)
Thanks for looking.
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The skin installation continues.
I don't remember the board I used on the last jukes being this stiff, but that was a few years ago, and they may be making it differently now.
I am taking the installation onto the frame a few inches at a time.
This is taking an enormous amount of time, because I have to let the glue set for at least an hour between moves.
But once I get around the curved top, it should be home free and finished in one glue session.
Here it is, showing how I am clamping it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299260;image)
Notice how it is pulling the big spring clamp apart? This is quite a way from the glue areas, so it's ok.
I found the marquee back was being pushed away from the skin, so I devised a wire to hold it tight against the skin.
This would have been a serious problem if I had not caught it, because the glue would have hardened and not allow the other side to push in when the skin is applied to it.
Thankfully I caught that before the glue set.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299262;image)
In an hour or so, I will remove the clamps, dob some glue in there and continue forward.
I was hoping I would get done in time to allow it to set for a few hours, then trim the skin with the router. But I don't see that happening today.
Wont hurt for it to set all night. I would not want the glue giving up from the vibration caused by the trim bit of the router.
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Sucks that you are having a hard time at it. I used 1/8" MDF on my Dad's and it was simple. I used a brad nailer to hold it. I have used 1/8 hardboard before on other curvy projects, looks like the stuff you are using, which looks like 1/4". Hope it's all down hill for ya after you get the wrap done.
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Thanks Mountain.
Yeah, I tried to find 1/8" mdf that you used, but could not. I did find some 1/4" but I figured it would be too hard to bend.
The stuff Im using is 3/16".
I haven't decided yet if Im going to apply a second skin, I may have to because of the depth of the T molding cut.
But if I do, Im thinking of cutting slots about the depth of half the thickness, across the width to help it bend.
We shall see.
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Ok, looks like I had a little success.
Got the last glue session done at around 11:00 PM, then left it clamped and weighed down to set overnight.
Took it out to the shed and put the router with a trim bit to it.
Im pretty happy with it.
Here is a pic of the front:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299285;image)
And the back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299287;image)
And now the big decision. Do I add another layer of skin?
Here is a picture of the T Molding, against the skin and the back frame (the back is the thinnest, thus less meat for the T-molding slot):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299289;image)
The pros of the extra skin is more meat for the T-molding slot, but the cons are more weight and more work for me.
As you can see, the tip of the T-molding barb will barely break the surface of the frame, and the laminate I will install later will move that barb evn farther away from the frame.
But how deep does the slot cutter need to go?
Ive got an old slot cutter that I can use for reference, but it's out in the shed.
My question is, does the slot need to go deeper than the barb? (Maybe I need to ask this over in woodworking.)
Im thinking about mounting the electronics just to make sure everything fits like I planned.
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No, the slot does not need to go deeper than the barb, but getting the depth PERFECT without going deeper is effectively impossible. If you don't go deep enough, and the barb runs into the back of the channel, your molding will appear to "rise" in that spot.
That said, there's no real reason to go much deeper than 1/2 to 1mm of the depth of the barb length, unless you don't want to fish out the dust.
If this thing will be exposed to rapid swings in temperature, the t-molding will theoretically expand, and potentially "bump" into the back of the slot, and thereby push itself out. However, if you give yourself an extra 1mm of depth and fish out the dust, you should be fine.
You could always just buy that ---smurfy--- stick on T-molding, and forgo slot cutting. I wouldn't recommend that, and I don't think you'd do it if I did.
Cheers!
:cheers:
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Thanks a1pharm, I didn't think about temperature making the T molding expand, but it does make sense.
The weather today is sucky, raining and wind blowing, so I have put the wood work off for a while. Hopefully tomorrow I can continue.
I have installed most of the parts for test fitting, and even though I still have to decide how I want to mount the motherboard, everything else fits like a glove.
Here is a pic with monitor, DVD drive and Harddrive installed. You can see how I am mounting the hard drive (same way I mounted HD on my last jukebox, using PC case expansion slot blank covers).
I also need to figure out how Im going to mount the fastening bracket on the back of the DVD. This will secure the DVD drive. Im thinking of a block glued to the bottom, and a screw through the bracket into the block. I left a piece of tape in that area to keep paint off the bottom surface, so I can glue a block there.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299324;image)
And here is a low quality pic of Power supply mounted and everything wired in. (Please ignore the haphazard wiring, this is just a test run.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=299326;image)
The fan laying across the CPU is the one that will mount into the bottom of the juke. The CPU on that Motherboard gets pretty warm, so I figured I had better cool it down while Im playing with the software. This MB did not come with a fan, Im wondering if it had a fan and shroud mounted in the PC case it was meant for? I bought it off ebay, so don't have a lot of info on it. It says "Dell Vostro A-100" on the boot up screen.
I will have to figure out a way to mount another fan that will blow directly on the two heat sinks.
So I have installed WinXP, SP3, ELO touchscreen software, and am currently testing "TouchTone Audio System" jukebox software.
I wanted to try something different from the XLobby I used before, mostly because it is very hard to find support for XLobby now.
(Or at least it is for me.)
Im already not liking the layout of touchtone, so Im open to any suggestions for jukebox software.
I also need some touch screen games (hint hint).
Im using windows media player to rip a cd to the harddrive and the computer locked up on me! DOH!
Thanks for looking, and Happy Halloween!
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Lately I have purchased touch jams and album player and have played with them a lot. They feel and look like Windows, which I don't like. I Keep going back to Etouch. The layout is so easy to use and setup is a breeze. I like version 6 the best as it fits my needs and is very stable.
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Here is a pic with monitor, DVD drive and Harddrive installed. You can see how I am mounting the hard drive (same way I mounted HD on my last jukebox, using PC case expansion slot blank covers).
I'm stealing this idea from you, thanks!
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Thanks mountain, I plan to check out that E Touch. if you like it, it's got to be good.
Steal away a1phram, but you cant steal what is free. Glad my ideas can help someone else. Looking forward to seeing your project.
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Life and stuff has gotten in the way of me and this project. But I do have a few updates.
First up, I decided to go ahead and add another layer of skin.
Here it is trimmed up nice and neat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300483;image)
I am using one of those thick aluminum housing lazy susan bearing for the swivel. (pics later).
I had intended on using magnets, like I did for Brendas jukebox, to allow detention spots when the juke swivels.
I had even drilled the holes for the magnets and attached them.
During a test fitting, the bearing acted like he was grabbing something tight when rotating. After rechecking all my clearances and scratching my head, I figured out the magnets was what was causing the bearing to hang up. The bearing housing is aluminum, but the ball bearings inside the housing are steel, and the magnets are so strong that they were grabbing the balls, making the bearing hang up.
I still wanted the detention points (Mountains idea), because I liked the fact that the juke can turn and be held in place at certain angles.
But the magnets would not work with this bearing, so I came up with a wheel and catch rig.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300485;image)
The wheel is cut from 1/4" MDF. I drilled equally spaced holes around the perimeter of the wheel before cutting out the wheel. The result was half holes around the perimeter.
The wheel has a hole cut in the center to allow the fan to suck air. Also 4 bolt holes that allow bolts to go through the fan and attach to the bottom of the top box.
The catch is a nylon roller I got from Lowes, I think it is for shower doors. It is mounted to a piece of steel, that has three holes. The center hole has a bolt to allow the catch to swivel. The outside hole has a spring attached to it.
As the top of the juke turns, the wheel turns, and the catch engages at certain angles. (Think brake).
The angle that has the top box front aligned with the speaker box front has a bigger hole in the wheel, making it a little harder to turn off that spot.
I still need to come up with a stop, so the juke cant turn completely around, which would wrap up the wires going from top box to speaker box. Also not all the holes in the perimeter of the wheel will be used.
Another pic with the bottom turned, showing how the wheel and catch works. (This bottom will be the top of the speaker box.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300487;image)
This actually turned out pretty good.
I also got the bottom laminated.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300489;image)
I used shelf liner paper to cover the laminate to prevent scratches. I thought the shelf liner would stick to the laminate but it wouldn't. So I had to use frog tape to hold it.
I scratched the laminate on the speaker box of Brendas Jukebox, so Im trying to be extra careful this time.
I intend to leave the paper on until all the laminate and cutouts in the laminate are finished.
Thanks for looking!
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Forgot to add.
I have been struggling with the Foxconn motherboard I had planned on using.
It randomly locks up. I have tried everything I know to do. Upgraded to 2 gig crucial ram, that is supposed to be compatible with this board.
tried different power supply, unplugging keyboard and mouse, unplugging touchscreen usb.
Tried re-greasing the heatsinks.
Tried fan blowing on heat sinks.
Tried tweeking BIOS settings.
Every time I think I got it fixed, it locks up again. Even reformatted hard drive and reinstalled windows XP. (2 or 3 times).
Even tried another hard drive. Also tried unhooking DVD drive.
Nothing seems to work.
I got the board off ebay about a year ago, I think I might have a bad board.
With my sister living about 500 miles from me, I need this jukebox to be very reliable.
So I ordered a new motheboard from newegg tonight.
ECS VX900-1 It is micro atx, same size as the one I have now.
It has a VIA L2007 onboard cpu 1.8 GHZ @ 800 MHz FSB. VIA chipset.
I know nothing about this board, but it does have 7 pretty good reviews.
It has HDMI out, but I wont be using that, only the VGA out.
Actually I don't think I will need a real powerful board for this jukebox, so Im hoping it will work.
And if it craps out, I can send it back to Newegg.
I welcome any comments about this board.
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Moving along nicely this old man. Some nice work also. Looking forward to seeing this finished. :applaud:
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Thanks sabreerbasAlpha! It is moving along, albeit slowly.
It's colder than a well diggers behind so I had to move indoors.
I decided to peel the paper off the bottom laminate to get a good look and Im glad I did. There were a lot of shavings behind the paper. Shavings from the router cutting out the holes. These tiny laminate pieces could be a source of scratches by being trapped between the surface and the paper.
Im pretty happy with the results. But I do plan to put clean paper back on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300503;image)
You can notice small chips around some of the drilled holes. These will be covered by the bearing, but I got to remember this next time. Tape on the outside and take drill very slow.
Here is another pic with I think a better angle.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300505;image)
Ok, moving right along.
In process of layout of the speaker bar cutout in the front panel of the speaker box.
I used the router guide I made before to align and mark the speaker bar position.
This guide is flimsy on one side, so I plan to reinforce it with strips of thin wood across the top. (Popsickle sticks?)
But this guide is the same size as the front of the speaker bar, and the laminate on the front should cover any minor slips of the hand.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300507;image)
This guide will be used later to cut out the laminate. (The oval shape on the inside of the guide will guide the router when cutting the front laminate.)
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Just a quick update.
It's been too cold outside to apply any laminate. (A heated shop would be so nice. Hint hint Santa!)
I did manage to put together my volume knob configuration.
I don't have any luck with the griffen powermate. Try as I may, it's just not reliable booting every time.
So I am going to use the ole reliable 50K ohm stereo audio pot again.
I found a piece of acrylic rod. Cut it down with my router circle cutter to fit the volume hole in the front of the juke.
I actually cut it too much and had to use some shiny duct tape to build it back up. It needs to fit snug in the hole so the pot knob will be properly aligned with the juke front.
I then cut a round piece out of one of those acrylic "neon" clip boards (blue).
I then glued the round piece to the acrylic rod.
There is a hole in the center for the pot.
I then drilled a hole into the back of the rod, one on each side of the pot, and inserted two blue leds.
The blue ring is the same diameter as the knob, maybe a MM or two bigger.
It forms a nice ring around the knob. (Please get minds out of gutter. LOL)
Here is a pic of it being tested:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300659;image)
And here it is test fitted into the hole: (Minds, gutters!)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=300661;image)
Sorry about the quality of the pics, but maybe you get the idea what im trying to do here.
Thanks for looking.
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I don't have any luck with the griffen powermate. Try as I may, it's just not reliable booting every time.
DaOldMan, you may want to try this tutorial for the Griffin Powermate:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,92052.msg966617.html#msg966617 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,92052.msg966617.html#msg966617)
Follow it and the Powermate will work every time. I've had nothing but success with it. 1000+ startup and reboots with not one issue.
Fordman
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Thanks Fordman. I forgot you figured out how to make the PM work.
I followed your procedure, but had to go a little different, because when I unplugged the PM, the driver in device manager disappeared.
I think I am still going to use the pot on this build, because I have already done so much prep work for it, plus the knobs I ordered wont fit the PM.
But I will save it for a later build, and try to remember your procedure then.
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Just a quick update to let everyone know Im still alive and kicking, and I am still working on this jukebox project.
I have done quite a bit of work since the last update, but I stalled a little (lot) during the holiday season.
I hope everyone had a great Christmas and a very good New Year.
Now just to get up to speed a bit.
I have installed all the laminate on the top box.
Here is a pic of the laminate applied and ready to trim:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=302602;image)
And here is a pic with the laminate trimmed up, and the front acrylic installed and trimmed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=302603;image)
Another shot of the front. Paper is not removed yet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=302605;image)
And here is the monitor test fitted into it's home:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=302607;image)
On my last build, I cut a 45 degree angle on the edge of the monitor and marquee cutouts (as Mountain did on his). But on this build, I think I will leave the edges square. The way the monitor bezel inserts into the cutout, I think the square edge will look better, plus I screwed up a corner cutting the 45 degree in my last build, so I am a little scared of the water so to speak.
I will leave the marquee opening edge straight too, so it will match the monitor opening.
I have done a lot more work but I wont bore you with too many pics.
I have made the bottom speaker box, need to cut out for the LAN/USB/AUDIO OUT (LUAO) plate. Then laminate it.
I am working on the LUAO plate now.
I have the method worked out to mount the motherboard.
I have the back door finished (It turned out pretty good.)
I have the volume pot soldered up and ready to install.
Now I need to cut the T-Molding slot. (I am debating rather to do this today, or wait until I get the speaker box ready for its slot.)
If I cut the slot today, I can assemble most of the components in the top box, but if I wait, I can be sure the slots will be exactly the same because I wont have to move the router bit. Anyone got a token I can flip?
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Ok, a little update is a good thing, yes?
I have not done a lot of work due to crappy weather and that sometimes annoying thing called life.
Just to get caught up a bit:
Got the T-molding slots cut in the top box:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=305990;image)
T-molding installed: back view:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=305992;image)
T-molding front view: (The clear protective plastic is still on the t-molding):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=305994;image)
Marquee lamp (LED strip) and volume knob installed. (Wiring is still in progress):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=305996;image)
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It is such a beautiful day out today. So I decided to head out to the shed and cut the T-Molding slot in the bottom (speaker) box.
I took extra time to set everything up just right.
Thought I had the slot cutter in the router nice and tight but alas I didn't.
Just as I started to cut, the bit flew out of the router and landed on the floor and spun like a top.
After I counter my fingers and toes and did I quick blood search, I breathed a sigh of relief.
So I re inserted the cutter into the router, made sure it was inserted deep enough into the router, and positioned it just right. (Again).
What happened was that I bolted a piece of 1/4" mdf to the router table to give me a nice smooth surface to cut the t-molding slot. So I removed this piece of mdf after the mishap, so the shaft of the cutter could go deeper into the router.
OK, I was ready to go for it again, I positioned the box on the table and that's when I noticed that the slot cutter had hit the side of the box and cut through the protective frog tape, and cut a few deep scratches, along with a couple of light scratches.
I went ahead and cut the slots. (I didn't really know what else to do at this point.)
Then I brought the box in the house and examined it closer.
Most of the scratches will be covered by the T-Molding (thank God.)
So I am trying to fill the scratches with wood glue. When that dries I plan to color the glue with a black sharpie.
Here is a pic after glue is applied (that's why deep scratches are white.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306038;image)
Im ready for a break.
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Thought I would pull away from the speaker box mishap while the Elmers Wood Glue dries and post a couple of pics of the interior of the top.
I have found that the wood glue tends to shrink when it sets up, so I have filled the scratches with the glue, leveled off with a straight edge, and cleaned up around it and then wait a few hours, then repeat.
When I am satisfied that the scratches have been filled to flush with the surface of the laminate, I will let it cure for about 12 hours, then color it in with the black sharpie. The sharpie matches the laminate color pretty close, so Im hoping it wil turn out ok.
Now for the eye candy.
This pic is the back of the monitor. Monitor is mounted. You can also see the rear end of the DVD drive, and how it is fastened.
The two aluminum brackets marked left and right, are to mount the motherboard to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306056;image)
Next pic is hard drive and power supply mounted. Wiring is still a mess.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306058;image)
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Just a little update.
Got most of the guts installed in upper box.
Motherboard mounted and most things hooked up.
Testing phase. XLobby music screen. Marquee yet to be installed, the lamp is a little bright, may have to put a dimmer on it:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306154;image)
Side view of volume knob back plate. (protective plastic is still on the t-molding.):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306156;image)
Motherboard and most things connected:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306158;image)
A screen cleaning utility I wrote, called from XLobby main menu. This disables all button touches for 30 seconds to allow the screen to be wiped or cleaned. (sorry for blurred pic):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306160;image)
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.
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Thanks Mr Tulley.
Putting speaker box together.
T-Molding applied and speaker cutout polished. (Protective clear plastic is still on T-molding):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306261;image)
Speaker bar mounted inside box:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306263;image)
outside view of speaker bar:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306265;image)
Rotate bearing (lazy susan) mounted to speaker box:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306267;image)
And now the router boo boo I experienced earlier:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=306269;image)
The scratches are not very noticeable, but they are there none the less. I hate it, but I don't know what else to do to fix it, except put a sticker over it, but stickers are not in the plan.
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Just about finished with this project.
Some pics up to now:
Motherboard and bottom fan.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307430;image)
DVD drive:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307432;image)
Power Supply:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307434;image)
Marquee retainer bolt (1 of 4). I added two layers of double backed tape, left the green checkered paper on the top layer
so it wouldn't stick to the marquee plastic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307436;image)
Marquee retainer bolts in place. (You can see 3 out of 4 in this pic). This worked out pretty good and should make it
fairly easy to change the marquee to a different style or pic:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307438;image)
The marquee in place:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307440;image)
The inside bottom of the speaker box, showing the indent wheel, clicky device that slows the rotation at certain points,
and the stops that keep from turning it all the way around:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307442;image)
I am not real happy with the marquee, so Im trying to come up with a different design.
I am very happy with the marquee retaining bolts, I will probably be using this idea again.
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I haven't checked into this thread in a while and man, you've really come a long way! Looking great! If you want photoshop help on the marquee send me a PM with what you're looking for and any personal pics you want to have incorporated and I can lend a hand if you want.
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I love your Jukes. One day I will build my own. I hope it comes out every bit as nice as yours.
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Thanks LeChuck, I appreciate all the help I can get. I will get some pics together and send you a PM soon.
Thanks for the kind words Matt! looking forward to seeing your juke!
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I mentioned art nouveau in our email but once I started playing with the shapes I really went art deco. Let me know what you think of this initial draft. Colors, shapes, style, whatever. I did this up just to get your creative juices flowing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308285;image)
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I mentioned art nouveau in our email but once I started playing with the shapes I really went art deco. Let me know what you think of this initial draft. Colors, shapes, style, whatever. I did this up just to get your creative juices flowing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308285;image)
oooooh, that's sexy
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Thanks LeChuck, I like it.
Gayle is crazy about cats, but they might be a little too cartooney (is that a word?) for this marquee.
After seeing your design, Im thinking dropping the whole cat idea.
I can still put the B&W picture on the front page of the XLobby program (first screen that comes up after windows boots up), that might be a better place for it anyway.
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If the woman likes cats (and what woman doesn't) it would be a shame to deprive her. Here's a concept but I can totally cat it up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308346;image)
special thanks to the late great Toulouse Lautrec
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Updated from feedback
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308463;image)
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"inter-contential"? ???
Scott
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"inter-contential"? ???
Scott
Yeah, about that...fixed! ;D
Thanks Scottaroo!
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Thanks for the cool work LeChuck, I plan to have both versions printed out tomorrow to see how they look.
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Thanks for the cool work LeChuck, I plan to have both versions printed out tomorrow to see how they look.
If you don't mind waiting a day on the Art Deco one I'll post up a good .png without the boarder so you have it to use. I forgot to do that one whilst I was doing the other. If they look funny or you just don't like them once they're in the machine let me know and we can try another design. I only have about an hour in these so it's not a huge time suck to do some others if you need it. :cheers:
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Thanks to LeChuck , I have a new marquee printed out. Here it is mounted with ambient lights on, camera flash on, and marquee back light off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=308540;image)
And here it is with ambient lights off, camera flash off, and marquee backlight on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=308542;image)
I like this marquee better than the one I came up with, but I think I am going to have to dim the marquee backlight.
I like the one with the wild cat too, but I haven't got it printed yet.
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Try just backing the marquee with another piece of plain paper to help diffuse some of that light - may be all you need. Looking good!
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That marquee is top notch! :cheers:
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Print out a yellow sheet of paper and wrap it around the bulbs. That always knocks down the harshness IMO...
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Now with gatos. Art deco gatos.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308610;image)
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.
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Makes me really think about buildin a juke like this.
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Now with gatos. Art deco gatos.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=134325.0;attach=308610;image)
I was going to say I prefer it sans gatos, but this one is really, really nice. :cheers:
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I like it. I like it a lot.
LeChuck, you are da man!
Gayle is going to love this. I am sure I will be her favorite brother now! :angel:
I plan to get this printed this weekend (Office depot is 30 miles from me).
Will post a pic after I install it.
Thanks pbj, I will try the yellow sheet.
Now for a build update:
I have been tweaking the XLobby software. have Zoom Player installed and now the dvds play great. (Watched "Jarhead" yesterday while working out on the ole exercise bike, good movie BTW).
Been working on the serial tag for it, but Im realizing that I don't have Cory Bee's talents. I wish I had half the talents of you guys on here.
This baby is getting near the finish line.
Gayles BD is next month. She lives 500 miles from me, so I see two things: I got little over a month to finish this and a road trip is ahead.
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The Artwork is splendid !
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Just a quick update.
Got LeChucks's latest creation printed and mounted. Hail to thee, LeChuck!! :notworthy:
Seriously, I think he did an excellent job!
Front view (This iPhone pic does not do it justice!)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=309169;image)
And now one more shot of the backside of the marquee before I close it up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=309171;image)
The screen door retainer thingies make it very easy to change the marquee.
Now I am debugging and setting up software.
So far I have XLobby installed, 24 Cds ripped to the juke (with more to follow), 13 games.
I am currently having a problem with XLobby repeating every track. I have went through it over and over and cannot find where that command is being turned on. (I have toggled the "repeat" button and it doesn't help.)
I cant find the answer on the net either. the bad thing about Xlobby is there seems to be no support for it anymore, or at least not for the last free version that I have.
Anyone got any ideas or suggestions?
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Nice project! That marquee is class! Always am a fan of your jukes,
da old man, and of mountains design.
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Thanks orion! Mountain has a very nice design, this is the second one I built using his idea.
Just a quick update:
Im going to Mobile, Al next Monday to take this jukebox to its new home.
I am trying to get everything just right, and since Im coming down to the wire, I am putting a lot of effort into it.
First of all, thanks to orion, I got the bug with XLobby repeating tracks fixed. (Downloaded an older version of winamp).
I have been fine tuning Xlobby and getting it just right.
I plan to take several pictures this weekend, and post them on here later, but for now here are a few pics.
(Taken with my iPhone, so quality may not be the best.)
The back panel mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=310286;image)
Back of the power switch:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=310288;image)
The serial tag:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=310282;image)
And a DVD playing. Movie is 3 Stooges "The Outlaws is coming":
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=310284;image)
BTW, that is a young Adam West (original Batman).
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Ken, you need to start a little business on the side making these, great job.
How does it sound?
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Thanks Paul, but Ive been working on this for a year, so I don't think I could make a decent living doing this. LOL
It sounds pretty good, of course the dell sound bar is not the greatest speaker in the world, it doesn't have a lot of bass to it and the speakers are pretty small, and Ive noticed that you really need to be standing (or sitting) directly in front of the juke to get the best sound. I did install a jack on the back so a better set of speakers (and amp) can be plugged in, if desired.
But all in all, the speakers don't sound bad.
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I think I can officially declare this project done.
Now I got to crate it up and deliver to my sister.
Hope she likes it.
I will post more pics later, but for now here are a couple of videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF5utj-9Nkw#t=15 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF5utj-9Nkw#t=15)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lLlY82HTcg&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lLlY82HTcg&feature=youtu.be)
Sorry for the long links.
Thanks for all the help and encouragement on here.
Special thanks to LeChuck for the marquee, and orion for the "Xlobby repeating the songs" help.
And also a special thanks to Mountain for allowing to steal his design one more time.
Yep.
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"This video is not available in your country".
...I mean, it's not like I live in Cuba or North Korea. :-\
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Really? Not sure what is going on there. I will see what I can find out.
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In some countries Youtube blocks videos which contain copyrighted music. You have to use something to change your IP adress to make Youtube think that you are from a country where this vid is "legal".
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That sounds like too much work. I'll just wait patiently for the pictures...
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That turned out great. Nice work. :applaud:
Thanks for posting the video. :cheers:
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...Thanks for posting the video. :cheers:
Shudup. Quit rubbing it in. :)
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Happy to help! :) I do hope your sister enjoys it! I can't see the video either on my iPhone... Doh!!!
I think I can officially declare this project done.
Now I got to crate it up and deliver to my sister.
Hope she likes it.
I will post more pics later, but for now here are a couple of videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF5utj-9Nkw#t=15 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF5utj-9Nkw#t=15)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lLlY82HTcg&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lLlY82HTcg&feature=youtu.be)
Sorry for the long links.
Thanks for all the help and encouragement on here.
Special thanks to LeChuck for the marquee, and orion for the "Xlobby repeating the songs" help.
And also a special thanks to Mountain for allowing to steal his design one more time.
Yep.