Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Maximus on July 05, 2013, 09:20:24 pm
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Initial raw concept
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/vyheve8a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/u9ehyjet.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/te4usu7u.jpg)
I always thought the SW games looked very 'Empirey' in their design. So as I've always wanted a cockpit, refuse to pay stupid money for one and like to do things a little different, I figured I'd build my own interpretation of the classic cockpit shape but 'Rebelified'
Factory pieces gathered for the project so far...
Yoke
Game Boards (untested)
Wiring Harness
Shroud
Cockpit style Control Panel
Seat metal trim
Marquee retainers
Roof plexi retainers
Monitor brackets
Over/under coin door & mechs
Coin box
Factory pieces still outstanding
Speaker grills x4
Air vent covers x2
Cockpit specific bezel
Non-Factory specific pieces still outstanding
Yoke rebuild kit
25" Color Vector Monitor
Speakers
Power supply
Glass
T-Molding
Casters
Plexi
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Interesting idea.
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I've got a good feeling about this
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Subscribed to this .... :cheers:
I can totally see where you've gotten the idea from. The design of the original cab is as you say very 'Empiresque'.
Cant wait to see what ideas you come up with for this one. :o
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+1
Very interesting idea, I love the R2 on top and the visor treatment.
subbed
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why stop at an arcade, build a 1:1 scale, full working version.. :cheers:
Love this idea!
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Looks pretty cool and... wait a sec... what happened to the rest of R2D2?
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wait a sec... what happened to the rest of R2D2?
Erm, that's a force cloaking invisibility jedi mind trick........yeah.
Added a few more roughs
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Looks pretty cool and... wait a sec... what happened to the rest of R2D2?
He's in the droid bay of the xwing, exactly where he should be. :applaud:
Joel - if you need any leads on droid parts, sizes, patterns, wiring, automation, etc I think I have you covered ;D
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The blue in the backglass seems out of place with the rest of the design.
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Joel - if you need any leads on droid parts, sizes, patterns, wiring, automation, etc I think I have you covered ;D
Wait, I thought we already had that talk about you building a whole new astromech for me. .... must have slipped my mind
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The blue in the backglass seems out of place with the rest of the design.
Yeah it is for sure although this is a pre alpha alpha alpha 0.1 design at the moment.
I hope I can find a way to incorporporate the original Hildebrandt art into this cab on the sides too
(http://latimesherocomplex.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/6a00d8341c630a53ef0134847b3793970c-600wi.jpg)
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The blue in the backglass seems out of place with the rest of the design.
Love the SWC backglass, but it does look out of place there.
I wonder if the backglass and some of the other SWC sideart could be adapted into backlit translights viewed from inside the cab looking out through the canopy into "space".
:dunno
Scott
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I hope I can find a way to incorporporate the original Hildebrandt art into this cab on the sides too
Maybe as noseart? :dunno
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1a/P40_sharks_teeth.jpg/320px-P40_sharks_teeth.jpg) (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Boeing_B-17G_Flying_Fortress_-_Flickr_-_p_a_h_%281%29.jpg/320px-Boeing_B-17G_Flying_Fortress_-_Flickr_-_p_a_h_%281%29.jpg)
Scott
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Subscribe to this will I
Sent from my Atari 2600
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Scott. You reading my mind again.
On the nose art not sure if the size would work out but there may be something there. As the R2 unit will cover some of the usual plexi area I wanted the pilot to be able to look up and out of the cockpit near the front of the cab perhaps to see a small Death Star hanging from the ceiling even.
Inside the idea is to create the 'real' control panel and shroud that the printed vinyls try and simulate. Follow the same patterns and colors but use real lights and the proper 3D relief.
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I always thought the SW games looked very 'Empirey' in their design. So as I've always wanted a cockpit, refuse to pay stupid money for one and like to do things a little different, I figured I'd build my own interpretation of the classic cockpit shape but 'Rebelified'
Great point.
What a cool project. You should build a retracting target computer. Also the aurebesh font would look great on any instrument panels you include. :cheers:
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So will this start once the pinball is done? :gobama:
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So will this start once the pinball is done? :gobama:
I'm already collecting all the factory pieces and I need to do a lot of art and design work so this will live in 'non workshop' time for a while before any cutting starts.
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Sweet. I have all the parts for a factory upright. Good luck with the evolution.
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Are you going to power your cab with Mame or original hardware?
Sent from my Atari 800 mobile device using Tapatalk
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Are you going to power your cab with Mame or original hardware?
Sent from my Atari 800 mobile device using Tapatalk
All factory hardware
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Dude, this is getting like a tattoo addiction.
At this point your the guy with the full sleeve on both arms, inkd out legs, and Thug life across your stomach....
I've ordered my popcorn as i watch you tighten the band around your arm with your teeth and inject more drugs in your veins.....
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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lol yeah you're not wrong, but as long as they are extremely high quality tattoos that I can be proud of then that's fine.
I also have a full Ikari Warriors hardware and art kit I recently completed collecting ready to go into a Dynamo Cab when I get around to it.
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I wish I had more room ... looks great. It'd be really cool if you added panels or some type of bass relief with some real venting and pipes etc.
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this is gonna be friggin awesome...........cant wait to see your progress pics
And for originality and just plain awsomness, I salute you sir :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Scott. You reading my mind again.
On the nose art not sure if the size would work out but there may be something there. As the R2 unit will cover some of the usual plexi area I wanted the pilot to be able to look up and out of the cockpit near the front of the cab perhaps to see a small Death Star hanging from the ceiling even.
Inside the idea is to create the 'real' control panel and shroud that the printed vinyls try and simulate. Follow the same patterns and colors but use real lights and the proper 3D relief.
Noseart ?? ..... lol
(http://th06.deviantart.net/fs71/PRE/f/2010/052/5/a/Slave_leia_by_ArtbyBones.jpg)
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Looks pretty cool and... wait a sec... what happened to the rest of R2D2?
The lower half of R2D2 will protrude into the cabinet and over the pilot's head.
Inside R2's bottom will be the VR apparatus from a Beach Head arcade game.
This will also add Oculus Rift support. R2's head will rotate to match the pilot's head movements.
A photo-booth will also be incorporated so you'll have a souvenir photo of your head up R2's bottom. :angel:
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^ This :laugh2:
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Looks like I have most of my factory cabinet hardware sorted out, I do still need a cockpit shroud though, in any condition.
Does anyone know the difference between the cockpit version and the upright? Is it just art details or is it physically very different?
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Double post.
So to use the space. Here's a nugget. Ten Gallon Hat comes from the Spanish phrase 'Tan Galan' meaning 'So Gallant/Handsome'.
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Looks like I have most of my factory cabinet hardware sorted out, I do still need a cockpit shroud though, in any condition.
Does anyone know the difference between the cockpit version and the upright? Is it just art details or is it physically very different?
There is definitely a difference in the upright and cockpit control panels.
The bottom of the upright CP is vertical, but the cockpit CP bends around further -- also different part numbers.
Not so sure about differences in the shroud, but there appear to be different part numbers for them, too. :dunno
Look at the cockpit manual pgs. 41/43/46 "Housing and Decal Assy." part number A040531-01 and upright manual pgs. 41/43 "Lower Housing & Decal Assy." part number A040375-01.
I may be missing something, but it looks like they are referring to corresponding parts on the cockpit and upright versions.
Scott
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Turns out the shroud has slightly different art but is physically the same in both the upright and cockpit so Le Chuck is loaning me his upright shroud to use as a pattern to build out the 'real' shroud for this project.
Updated the OP with a parts list.
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I noticed the concept doesn't show the cup holders, probably just an oversight.
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I noticed the concept doesn't show the cup holders, probably just an oversight.
Those cup holders better extend from the sides on command like a targeting reticule or this build is just meh.
;)
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Great concept! Subscribed!
I want one of these for playing Star Citzen when it comes out. I know I know...not very arcady, but it would be cool!
Anyway...I love this idea. Cant wait to see some Progress.
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I noticed the concept doesn't show the cup holders, probably just an oversight.
Hrmmm I wonder how many cupholders the 2014 Rebel Family Wagon has?
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I noticed the concept doesn't show the cup holders, probably just an oversight.
Hrmmm I wonder how many cupholders the 2014 Rebel Family Wagon has?
You can bet your sweet Aunt Bibpie there was at least one in Red 6's whip.
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Overall I like it....but that last pic......is the cab growing a pair of coconuts? What are those supposed to be? ;D
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Overall I like it....but that last pic......is the cab growing a pair of coconuts? What are those supposed to be? ;D
They might e something like the "engines" on the back of the S.T.U.N. Runner cab.
(http://www.mamedb.com/cabinets/stunrun.png)
Might be a good idea to replace the blue "backglass" with the top two engines of a 4-engine design.
Scott
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I noticed the concept doesn't show the cup holders, probably just an oversight.
Hrmmm I wonder how many cupholders the 2014 Rebel Family Wagon has?
You can bet your sweet Aunt Bibpie there was at least one in Red 6's whip.
Naw, Porkins couldn't hide a cup in there. Be serious.
Now Bantha Jerky, on the other hand...
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oversized cardboard tubes and make the engines glow with LEDS. Cut them so they notch into the cabinet and not just attached.
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They are bofadeez nuts.
I've been chewing this design over and decided that I need to treat the structure as though it were a full size rebel ship that may have taken part in rebel campaign at some point, instead of trying to make it some distorted scale version of a ship we already know. To do this I need to look at the Star Wars design language and try and capture that 'look' that says this is a Star Wars Rebel ship as soon as you look at it. Putting the R2 unit on top will go a long way to solidifying that impression, but still, the shape needs to look like it exists in it's own right, as a tiny, one-man vessel.
Some examples of Rebel ships that seem to follow the correct styling
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship01.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship02.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship03.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship04.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship05.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship06.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship07.jpg)
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/ship08.jpg)
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For the surfaces of the cabinet I think that I will create a pattern for the paneling on the exterior of the ship and then route those slots about 1/8" deep into the surface of the cabinet. Then I'll have a matching pattern and detail on a full size vinyl wrap that will cover the whole surface. This way I can get true three dimensional depth to the sides and paneling while retaining the ability to do all of my art, details, burn marks and shading in Photoshop instead of trying to recreate them by hand. I'm a true child of the computer age in the fact that I can scratch render a photo-realistic image in Photoshop but I can't paint with a brush to save my life, a sign of the times indeed.
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For the surfaces of the cabinet I think that I will create a pattern for the paneling on the exterior of the ship and then route those slots about 1/8" deep into the surface of the cabinet. Then I'll have a matching pattern and detail on a full size vinyl wrap that will cover the whole surface.
Thinking about using screen spline (http://www.lowes.com/pd_39958-15369-70178_0__?productId=3094467) to divide the panels?
It should allow you to to cut and secure the vinyl into the 1/8" slot with less distortion than trying to use a heat gun to stretch vinyl along a long straight seam.
You might even be able to do some slightly recessed or raised panels this way.
Scott
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Some examples of Rebel ships that seem to follow the correct styling
Think you posted most of the ones that were precursors to the Empires ships.
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Looks like a fun project. Building the cab for my POD was a lot of fun so you should be thoroughly enjoying it!
As an aside, look to the guy who built the vulture pod for how you can glorify wood: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html (http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html)
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look to the guy who built the vulture pod for how you can glorify wood: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html (http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html)
Now that's my idea of a quality build! Holy crap the craftsmanship is astounding, definitely the type of level I want to take this to.
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Thanks kahlid that thead is solid gold, he is using a lot of the same techniques I've been looking at including the v-cutting of the exterior panels
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/09/u7apagut.jpg)
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I've been chewing this design over and decided that I need to treat the structure as though it were a full size rebel ship that may have taken part in rebel campaign at some point, instead of trying to make it some distorted scale version of a ship we already know.
I can just feel all the blaster rifles aiming at me as I write this, but, as a casual fan of Star Wars and not a fanatical lover, like some, I find your original idea of a "Rebelized Edition" of the Star Wars Cockpit more interesting to the masses than designing a cab with artwork and ship design that only a select few might recoginize (I know we don't build for the masses, we build for ourselves and hope the masses like it, however...). To build the cockpit in such a way as to have actual arcade colletors themselves say "Did Atari actually make a "Rebel Edition"? Is that some prototype?" Instead of "I can tell it's Star Wars related because of R2, but past that, I don't remember seeing that in any of the films. Is that Jar Jars car?" I know based on all your builds, you push creativity to the ragged edge, I just hope in the search for building something unique or different, you don't create a cab only appreciated by a select few. I think your first sketch was bang on, and basing the cab off the original cockpit we all know and love is just a cool idea. No matter what, I know it will look the nuts...good luck, I will be watching. To everyone else...FIRE AWAY !!!
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Wow... all this is awsome! Can't wait to see how this one goes...:o
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I can just feel all the blaster rifles aiming at me as I write this
Meesa thinks me knows why the peopleses aiming theysa blasters at yousa.
Is that Jar Jars car?
:angry: :bat :droid :duckhunt
Scott
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@Typefighter. I think you may have misinterpreted what I meant. I fully intend to try and keep as much of the original cab shape as possible and treat THAT shape as though it were a ship itself.
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I can just feel all the blaster rifles aiming at me as I write this,
I would like to think that everyone here feels free to post their thoughts, even though it might go against the apparent grain. If anything, I think this makes us a better site and a better source of real, critical suggestions when it comes to a project.
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... don't create a cab only appreciated by a select few... the original cockpit we all know and love...
It could be argued that the original we all know is love is known only to a small subset of the general population. I can't imagine anyone I know recognizing an original for what it is. Wish I had time etc to do an original myself, but I'm all in favour of building whatever pleases you.
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Have to agree with everyone else.... this concept looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product :applaud:
Also, I really hope that R2D2 will be projecting the game play on a wall near you.... Help me Obi-Maximus.... you are my only hope :cheers:
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looking forward to see what you come up with....the concept looks amazing. :applaud:
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@Typefighter. I think you may have misinterpreted what I meant. I fully intend to try and keep as much of the original cab shape as possible and treat THAT shape as though it were a ship itself.
Great, I was just thinking when you first posted the sketch how cool it would be to have your "Rebel Edition" side by side with the original and I was afraid your new direction might stray from this basic shape.
I can just feel all the blaster rifles aiming at me as I write this,
I would like to think that everyone here feels free to post their thoughts, even though it might go against the apparent grain. If anything, I think this makes us a better site and a better source of real, critical suggestions when it comes to a project.
I wrote this more as joke, however, many a guest to Maximi's builds with a critizism or opinion have been told to leave Griff alone and let him do his own thing so I was trying to soften any blows I might incur. Also, considering the subject matter, Star Wars is a religion to some and I was fearfull of an attack :laugh2: .
... don't create a cab only appreciated by a select few... the original cockpit we all know and love...
It could be argued that the original we all know is love is known only to a small subset of the general population. I can't imagine anyone I know recognizing an original for what it is. Wish I had time etc to do an original myself, but I'm all in favour of building whatever pleases you.
Probably the only statement I disagree with. The Star Wars cockpit is one of the few arcade cabs that I can actually see my friends and family recognizing. Not sure how rare it is (pretty sure it is rare now) or was, but growing up I saw this cab many times and short of Ms PacMan or Donkey Kong, in a line up of 50 different cabs, I am sure my friends and family could pick it out. There is no real answer to this one, we can only guess on how recognizable it is (I think for fun I will send my mom a pic and ask her to guess, if my mom guesses right, I win, trust me, if my mom knows what it is then most anyone will).
Again, I know it will be great, the hard part now is waiting for Griff to finish it.
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You should totally build a speeder bike to go with this. >:D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987)
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You should totally build a speeder bike to go with this. >:D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987)
:bat
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I love Star Trek, especially all the spells and Cylons.
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You should totally build a speeder bike to go with this. >:D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-The-Fast-and-the-Furious-Super-Bikes-Arcade-Machine-bike-seat-/330952280455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0e4b0987)
:bat
(http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/U-MAD-BRO-Arnold-300x298.jpg) :laugh2:
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I love Star Trek, especially all the spells and Cylons.
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look to the guy who built the vulture pod for how you can glorify wood: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html (http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3151112/all/Mechwarrior_Cockpit.html)
Now that's my idea of a quality build! Holy crap the craftsmanship is astounding, definitely the type of level I want to take this to.
The guy is a really cool guy too, he's still on the SimPit forums so if you ever have questions, hit him up. The pod was awesome, but when I saw his custom made joystick that was built from Popsicle sticks and putty and at the end looked like plastic I got goosebumps. The dude also has his own shop, which is super rad.
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It could be argued that the original we all know is love is known only to a small subset of the general population.
It could also be noted that the original is about as comfortable as sitting in old bleachers. If you're over 6', you're eating your knees, and your ass hurts because the seat is short and has no padding. I love me some Star Wars cockpits but let's not pretend the original is awesome to actually sit in.
I wish you a lot of luck finding yourself a good 25" Amplifone. Honestly. That's going to be a ---smurfette---.
I have always wanted to build a totally different SW cockpit. One that has greatly upgraded sound and is actually comfortable to sit in.
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Yep hopefully I can add some comfort tweaks
As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch, I'm souring local ads, CL and big swapmeets for the tube from a Zenith B2500W TV, I have everything else I need to build the unit, but until I find one of those tubes I'm a little dead in the water.
If everyone reading this could keep an eye out for me in their area I'd certainly appreciate it.
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As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch, I'm souring local ads, CL and big swapmeets for the tube from a Zenith B2500W TV, I have everything else I need to build the unit, but until I find one of those tubes I'm a little dead in the water.
If everyone reading this could keep an eye out for me in their area I'd certainly appreciate it.
You might want to contact Gary Vincent at ACAM (Funspot) in NH. They have a 'donor tube' in their cockpit. I know it's not the Amp tube but don't know what it is. It doesn't align perfectly but does look decent and is 25". My son and I played that for hours during the ACAM tourney this year.
And check out the donor list here (http://www.junknet.net/donor-tvs) if that's not where you got the info you already have.
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Yep hopefully I can add some comfort tweaks
As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch, I'm souring local ads, CL and big swapmeets for the tube from a Zenith B2500W TV, I have everything else I need to build the unit, but until I find one of those tubes I'm a little dead in the water.
If everyone reading this could keep an eye out for me in their area I'd certainly appreciate it.
sent ya a PM.
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Yep hopefully I can add some comfort tweaks
Getting closer....
(http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/chgames/Atari_Star_Wars_(2).JPG)
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Yep hopefully I can add some comfort tweaks
As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch, I'm souring local ads, CL and big swapmeets for the tube from a Zenith B2500W TV, I have everything else I need to build the unit, but until I find one of those tubes I'm a little dead in the water.
If everyone reading this could keep an eye out for me in their area I'd certainly appreciate it.
Wrong account Joel?
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...As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch...
It might be a little too much to take on but it would be nice to see you do a separate post to show how one would create a Amplifone monitor.
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Yeah what the fupp happened there? Having an identity crisis.
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...As for the amplifone I am going to have to build one from scratch...
It might be a little too much to take on but it would be nice to see you do a separate post to show how one would create a Amplifone monitor.
It means he bought existing parts for everything except the CRT and is looking for a CRT compatible enough to use.
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It means he bought existing parts for everything except the CRT and is looking for a CRT compatible enough to use.
Yup pretty much. If I do build the monitor I'll make a separate thread for it.
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Yup pretty much. If I do build the monitor I'll make a separate thread for it.
Garrrr who am I :dunno
One of my browsers was still logged into the old account lol.
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I gathered what he was trying to accomplish Chad. :)
Looks like the tv was produced in '85. My older friend is working on a time machine built into a car. Once he's got it ready I'll go back to '85 and grab you a tv. I just hope I don't run into problems trying to get back. ;D
On a serious note, Maximus (or whomever you are at the present time) have you seen this? (http://www.gauck.com/arcade/Amp25/Amp_in_a_box/Amp-in-a-box.html) I would assume that is where you got the idea in the first place. I'm gonna stop at my Habitat for Humanity store (it's a thrift shop for all household items) on my way home. They tend to carry older items like tv's along with light fixtures, sinks, etc. Just a quick question. Is there any other possible tv you would need to make your monitor or is the Zenith the only one?
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The B2500W is the only Zenith model I know of guaranteed to have that tube in it. Of course they made many many more 25" models but hard to know what tube they have in them without pulling the back, it's a bit of a treasure hunt.
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Don't reply to yourself, Griff!!! If you cross the streams, you could rip a hole in the fabric of space/time!!!
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I think I've died and gone to nerdy heaven.
Subscribed. May the force be with you.
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Woot.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/paqezydy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/2uhabade.jpg)
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This tube was made in 87 so its newer than the Atari AMP ones
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/yhejeqag.jpg)
All cleaned and liberated ready for the next stage
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/8u4upuba.jpg)
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How do you find this stuff? I need your Batman detective skillz.
Sent from my Atari 2600
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How do you find this stuff? I need your Batman detective skillz.
Hours of research.
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Biggest arcade score I've seen in quite some time. :cheers:
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Changed the cab design a bit.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/2ery5uza.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/a3a5udap.jpg)
Just needs the yoke installed and some stickers then we can call this done
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/a3a5udap.jpg)
Just needs the yoke installed and some stickers then we can call this done
Yoke is already installed. Done.
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Yoke is already installed. Done.
Not that yoke silly
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/y7ubyda7.jpg)
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Looks like the yoke's on me! :lol
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Griff- do you need a new sticker for that yoke? Or are you going to redesign it?
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Griff- do you need a new sticker for that yoke?
'cause I got a great contact at RAM Controls, if ya need it!
:D ;) ;D >:D
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Are you building a STAR WAR cabinet? :dizzy:
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Erm I think you mean Stars War
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/a8y2anu3.jpg)
Nearly finished and ready to blow up klingons
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I do not care what this ends up looking like just as long as R2 turns and looks at you when you enter the room, then I will be a happy man :laugh: .
No seriously the concept looks great!.
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Awesome back part looks like a spaceship now
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/udu6u8y2.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/yvy3uhen.jpg)
Rims roms and rams
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Griff- do you need a new sticker for that yoke? Or are you going to redesign it?
Not sure yet. The Rebel edition will be different but I'm playing with the idea of making two cockpits at once the second one all orginal
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Cleaning up the 'untested' boards I got off ebay for $100
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/a9aqudyp.jpg)
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Time to get serious about the power and boards. I have ads up on KLOV for these pieces, please let me know if you have any of these knocking around...
Atari Color Vector power transformer & assembly #37395 (must be the vector version, normal raster is no good)
Atari AR2 Audio Power Regulator
Star Wars RFI Shield interconnect board
Star Wars RFI Cage
Star Wars 3 board interconnect.
Thanks for any help you can give on these.
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At first I thought that was a wooden mock-up, But now its becoming apparent that's the real deal, So I just have to ask, Why all the wood? Your skills and visions would make me believe that you could incorporate some steel without thinking too hard.... Nice score on that monitor Btw.
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Is that vertical yoke mount a temp testing setup?
SW yokes were designed to mount at 45 degrees for less Y-axis wrist strain when you aim for the top of the screen.
Changing the mounting angle changes the mounting height required to get the same feeling / range of motion as the original.
It could easily throw off the geometry and/or feel of the whole build.
Scott
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Yeah I will be using more stickers to get a steel effect here and there, that will also give the optical illusion of the yoke angle being better.
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Yeah I will be using more stickers to get a steel effect here and there, that will also give the optical illusion of the yoke angle being better.
:laugh2:
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Was going to subscribe, but . . . non canon
:puke
Later.
/goes to play a lunchtime game on an lcd and a u360. go figure.
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Was going to subscribe, but . . . non canon
Pfft next you'll be saying you don't like the Stars War theme...
Zlad! Elektronik Supersonik (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTXb1VmzIx4#)
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Got my metal bits sorted...
Here's the monitor brackets
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/monitor_brackets.JPG)
Plexi and Marquee Bits
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/plex_marquee_brackets.JPG)
Bashed up control panel needs some holes filled
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/cockpit_cp.jpg)
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Maximus I never knew you were an 80's rock star :laugh2:
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Yeah I will be using more stickers to get a steel effect here and there, that will also give the optical illusion of the yoke angle being better.
:dizzy: :dunno :dizzy: Can't tell if I'm missing something in your reply or if you're missing something from my earlier post. :dizzy: :dunno :dizzy:
I asked about ergonomics but your reply appears to be about aesthetics. :dunno
Scott
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Irony (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hwxybr3MBOY#)
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Lack of clarity =/= irony.
Pulp Fiction - English ---maternal-smurf--- Do You Speak It (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_mDTLphIVY#)
;D >:D
Scott
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DO I SPEAK IT? I AM IT! :angry:
:P :P :P :P :P
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D'oh! Must have been tired when I posted the original question about the vertical yoke mount -- forgot to consider the mount angle of the monitor/frame. :embarassed:
[/dumb question]
DO I SPEAK IT? I AM IT! :angry:
:P :P :P :P :P
:duckhunt I know. :duckhunt >:D
:P :P :P :P :P
Scott
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Ah, theres the parts... Ok, carry one. ;)
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Aye. Seriously, as I'm sure you are all aware this is just a dirty chassis to house all the electronics so I can test them properly but also protect them and move them easily. There's no point making one cut until all of this gear is fully working. I have to build the new AMP deflection and HV boards from Dez's blank PCBs so there's a hell of a lot of work to do to get this all running properly
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
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Lots of electronic type bits and pieces inbound...
Monitor Build
- Deflection PCB
- Deflection Posistor (For degaussing)
- Neck Connector, 12 Pin for HV
- HV Mystery Can MC1
- HV Bare PCB
- HV Metal Heatsink "C" Shaped
- HV Metal Bracket - to hold the Focus Block
- HV Glue Lined Tubing (Heat-shrinkable)
- HV Driver Transformer T1
- Cinelabs AMP Flyback
- WG 6100 Flyback
- Reproduction AMP Deflection board heat sink
- A Billion bits from Mouser.
Game Power & Boards
- Color vector Power Transformer assembly
- AR II Sound Power Module
- RFI shield interconnect board
- RFI cage
- 3 board interconnect
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Getting in some research at Comicon
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/py9uzeze.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/8eterade.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/egupy7et.jpg)
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Tell the facilities staff at Comic-con to turn down the AC a bit.
;)
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Yeah its a bit nipply in here
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Yeah its a bit nipply in here
I was going to say I haven't seen that many nipples since Batman and Robin came out.
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I can actually feel the nipples on my phone's screen.
Sent from a pineapple under the sea
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Monkeyvoodoo needs to dial back the settings on his touchscreen.
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Picked up a little something to make this build extra special
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/ybuduryq.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/ehuqyzad.jpg)
What do you mean she wasn't in star wars?
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Isn't that Princess Lay-Uh from Stars War?
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Isn't that Princess Lay-Uh from Stars War?
I certainly hope so!
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Isn't that Princess Lay-Uh from Stars War?
Come on, guys. Stop messing with Stars War and start building that Viper.
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I've started a thread for just the monitor build over at KLOV as that's where the guys are that are guiding me through this insane task.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2504932#post2504932 (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2504932#post2504932)
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Rebuilt AR2 Audio power board arrived
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/20/ezysupuh.jpg)
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Both flybacks arrived with a bonus item
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/21/u6atuvub.jpg)
I know working on monitors can be dangerous but I didn't know I had to take it this seriously.
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nice! lol
But really... those CRTs can send you packing early. As a former arcade mgr, I had to run a CRT Rejuvinator on a monitor. After the long process.. Id disconnect it, reconnect the flyback cups, and fire it up. But it still was crappy. Kept repeating the process.. and eventually, was losing my patience, and thus not being careful enough...
On like my 5th try.. I started to plug the thing in, but realized I had forgot one part of the process.. and immediately yanked the plug. It was so quick, maybe a 5th of a second... so I didnt think there was time for any charge to build, let alone anything of a serious nature.
I got my hand near the cap.. not even near touching, and POW! A loud cracking lightning bolt from hell, reached out and viciously bit its red hot needle Fangs into my finger ! My arm involuntarily flung backwards, nearly breaking the sound barrier... and hit the wall behind the game, with the atomic force of 200,000 Malenkos. Im surprised I didnt break my elbow / arm from the impact. My whole body had hit pretty hard as well. I could feel the effect of pulled and strained muscles... Aches and odd pains. My finger had a small black spot on it.. and had a very foul burnt toast smell to it.
My body ached for like a day, and my arm was a mess for like a week. Really wished I had moved that game out further! .. as well as not been so careless and ignorant. Have to respect the power of the Electron at all times. Same way, if not more so, than a tablesaw blade, or razor sharp hair-splitting knife.
Thats probably the worst zap Id ever taken.. and Im probably lucky to have survived it.
Wear a rubber glove, and discharge using a well grounded screwdriver, every few minutes, for like 10 to 15min. (as somehow, a big charge can build up again, even if it sounded like nothing was popping)
May the Force Be With You! ;D
I really love your cabinet sketch design. But I do have to say.. that its not only a crime that the original machine didnt have a motion cockpit.. but that it "should" be a crime if you dont make one! heh
Of course, thats got my mind all riled up about what else would be awesome.. such as a vector convertor, that changes the output of the game into stereoscopic 3d (built into a starwars visor helmet?).
(would probably have to be a mame based machine for that, unless some crazy hackery was in place.. such as dual vectors & a half silvered mirror?)
Other ideas:
- R2s head rotates left to right randomly, and randomly squawks at you.
(or maybe the head just rotates when the games R2 starts squawking)
- Lit buttons & lit readout panels.
- BASS Shakers & or heavy duty vibration motors attached to the seat support frame
- Cushy Leather or leather look form-fit seat. Possible race style harness?
- Xenon flasher flickers behind your head, lighting up the cab like crazy, when deathstar explodes.
- Flasher bulbs with Red colored lens for when you get hit. Or just inside instrument panels.
- Some instrument panels go dim / flicker when you get hit.
- Possible extra mp3 style sound effects played.
- Possibly multi speaker output, such as a center console speaker which only squawks stuff from the other rebels communications. Speakers outside the cab for environmental effects. (use of a delay echo effect? Simulated surround processing? And or actual fed mp3 battles taking place.. )
- possible additional sound effects via mp3 mapping.. output in various places in and around that cab.
- all speakers except the comm , r2, & possible sub, outside the cab rather than internal.. and use of 3d surround processing with 4 or 8 channel output to various quadrants? An external set of sound-bounce walls (cab within a cab) for better audio spatial surround?
- Laser Projector Vector display?
- Air-Cannon(s) ?
- Sheild tracking.. when final death blow hits, amp up effect power? Or increase output levels as sheilds deplete.. with possible 'constantly-on' simulated ship engine issues (vibration) that get worse as damages increase?
Ehh crap... just remember, if you do anyting with vibrations or a sub.. to mount all sensitive equipment on soft springy materials.. (like 4way bungee cord / mild-spring tension mounts) so that theres no vibration damages.
Fun stuff :)
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http://www.wimp.com/gamecommercial/ (http://www.wimp.com/gamecommercial/)
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Lol awesomeness
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http://www.wimp.com/gamecommercial/ (http://www.wimp.com/gamecommercial/)
I think nostalgia works better when the details are fuzzy memories. That commercial has put a damper on my nostalgia :)
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Nice play on the scriptures. Is the first page of that little book their waiver form?
AJ
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Maximus enough already...were is the SAW DUST!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Maximus enough already...were is the SAW DUST!!!!!!!!!!!!
There's wont be any of that for quite a while yet, i plan on moving house before starting the cabinet on this one.
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Maximus enough already...were is the SAW DUST!!!!!!!!!!!!
There's wont be any of that for quite a while yet, i plan on moving house before starting the cabinet on this one.
NOOOOO. Anyway the Force is still strong with this one...Sorry how could I resist...
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If R2's head doesn't rotate, light up and make noises I'm gonna be pissed.
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Completed collecting all the wiring game boards sound and power although I still don't know if it works yet.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/ve9uru6e.jpg)
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There's something very satisfying about taking a bunch of old mismatched parts and making something whole again.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/y5aba6ar.jpg)
I need to source some spacers for the boards and one set of the support rails is missing from the chassis.
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I need to source some spacers for the boards...
http://www.alliance-express.com/circuit-board-hardware (http://www.alliance-express.com/circuit-board-hardware) ???
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All the spacers you could ever want:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-30-in-PEX-Faucet-Supply-Line-with-Sleeve-P1-30A-F/100129551#.UfKI422O7wo (http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-30-in-PEX-Faucet-Supply-Line-with-Sleeve-P1-30A-F/100129551#.UfKI422O7wo)
AJ
There's something very satisfying about taking a bunch of old mismatched parts and making something whole again.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/y5aba6ar.jpg)
I need to source some spacers for the boards and one set of the support rails is missing from the chassis.
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All the spacers you could ever want
Or these (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330865139459). I just bought two sets yesterday.
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Yep I do already have a bag of about 40 mounting feet I picked up, I guess I could just chop them up a bit.
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Game chassis assembled. This thing is proof that people did a lot of drugs in the 70s what a convoluted crappy design.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/uzumy7em.jpg)
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Wiring harness in place. Wondering if these plugs in the foreground go to the monitor.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/ba3umyru.jpg)
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Wondering?...... Meh, grab a beer first before you plug them in
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There's only one plug into a 6100/Amp.
The other probably goes to the control panel.
I will be shocked if the AR doesn't need a rebuild. It will also be pretty surprising if the connectors don't need rebuilding. A huge percentage of Atari games went dead because of the molex connectors rather than board failures. I have yet to go through one that could be made reliable without rebuilding the connectors.
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At least rebuilding the ARs is pretty easy. I've even done a few myself with no issues.
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Yep, the AR is very easy for anyone who can solder. Big pads and big parts with the exception of those PCB mount molex connectors. With the amount of effort going into this cab it's worth every effort to bulletproof the boards. Those will need to be repinned to get there.
The transoformer block, too. Same mounted connectors. Replace the bridges on the underside, all of the fuse holders (including the black screwed in one), the big blue, reflow the transformer tabs.
You can consider the +5v mods to bypass the sense circuit but I wouldn't do it for home use. Just be sure the +5v line is completely clean from the AR all the way into the game boards and it should stay that way in a home.
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Sounds like quite the project but yep I will go through it all before I even consider building the cab. At least the AR2 is already rebuilt
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If they did not replace the variable voltage regulator on the AR then swap that too. A lot of people don't replace that during a rebuild but given the level of effort in this project it is worth doing.
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I have a total of 5 plugs free after connecting the harness to the PSU and main boards.
One is for the yolk
One for the coin counter (if it's like Paperboy)
One for the coin door mechs (if it's like Paperboy)
One is for the speakers...
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/speaker_harness.jpg)
So the last one goes to the Amplifone.
I still have the guts of that championship sprint that I cannibalized for my paperboy build, I have the coin door and counter from that so hopefully they will use the same plugs, maybe there is even the speaker harness too left over, if so that should solve those little issues.
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Now this may be a very silly question, but how can I go about testing the boards and game without a vector monitor? I need to know the game is working properly before I try hooking it up to the newly built Amplifone as that will no doubt need all kinds of calibration and tweaking, I don't want to be trying to do that if I have a glitchy gameboard.
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Just lay on the couch or tilt your head. badump-bump-bump-pish!
AJ
Now this may be a very silly question, but how can I go about testing the boards and game without a vector monitor? I need to know the game is working properly before I try hooking it up to the newly built Amplifone as that will no doubt need all kinds of calibration and tweaking, I don't want to be trying to do that if I have a glitchy gameboard.
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Now this may be a very silly question, but how can I go about testing the boards and game without a vector monitor?
Honestly? You'll probably have to swap boards with a working SW to see if it works.
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Yep, or if you have a friend who is really good, they can use a two channel oscilloscope.
Best way is to get a working 6100. Even if you swap your boardset into someone else's working game, and your boards work, that doesn't mean they will work in your setup. That's where we get back to rebuilding all of the connectors. Wonky connectors here can cause so many phantom issues that's it is really not worth doing tons of testing until those are rebuilt.
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Is there some kind of rebuild kit available or do you have to source all the blocks and pins etc?
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Various sellers have kits for the caps. I don't think I have ever seen a kit for the other parts.
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Chad quick question. I bench tested my vector power transformer and felt happy enough with the voltages to plug it in to my board set.
I have lights on all the main boards but without a monitor I can't see much more than that right now. I'm missing the speaker harness so it's not obvious where to plug them in. Where are the audio out pins on the Ar 2
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A solid 5v on the board
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/7uhuqeqe.jpg)
Also 12v line looks good.
I have these lights that stay on after a quick boot
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/sanusapa.jpg)
And the three lights to the bottom right come on at boot then go off quite quickly
I have a solid single LED on the AVG board
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/epevuzu4.jpg)
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Wow, an LED. Maybe since some come on and then off, you'll need to check the entire string, like Clark W. Griswold. It is pretty old. :laugh2:
AJ
A solid 5v on the board
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/7uhuqeqe.jpg)
Also 12v line looks good.
I have these lights that stay on after a quick boot
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/sanusapa.jpg)
And the three lights to the bottom right come on at boot then go off quite quickly
I have a solid single LED on the AVG board
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/01/epevuzu4.jpg)
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Hrmmm now after moving the board all lights are on all the time
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See?
Hrmmm now after moving the board all lights are on all the time
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Yep put it all back in the chassis and it looks like all lights are solid now
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Sounds like Ellen unplugged it in the garage. :applaud:
AJ
Yep put it all back in the chassis and it looks like all lights are solid now
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WTF are you flapping your cockholster about?
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X-mas Vacation. cockholster? I'm stealing that.
AJ
WTF are you flapping your cockholster about?
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Ahhhh ok. Nope not watched that can't stand that national lampoon crap
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Ahhhh ok. Nope not watched that can't stand that national lampoon crap
(http://cache.gawkerassets.com/assets/images/12/2010/04/500x_implied_facepalm.jpg)
(http://springfieldfiles.com/albums/signs/1054.JPG)
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Well that fun didn't last long the ar2 is cooking like an egg, rebuilt ---my bottom---. Grrrrrrrrr
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Well that fun didn't last long the ar2 is cooking like an egg, rebuilt ---my bottom---. Grrrrrrrrr
Did you do the sense mod to it?
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I bought it rebuilt (supposedly) what is the sense mod
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I bought it rebuilt (supposedly) what is the sense mod
http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/ar2mods.html (http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/ar2mods.html)
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Also:
http://bitslicer.tripod.com/ar_sense_mod.htm (http://bitslicer.tripod.com/ar_sense_mod.htm)
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Thanks I will check those out. Feeling a bit overwhelmed by all this old tech so I'm going to go and work on the alchemy VPin for a while to clear my head
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Which part of the AR smoked? That will tell you where to start debugging. It's very possible the AR was good and the problem was excessive draw from the boards. Are the +/-12, +5, and GND lines on the connectors and edge contacts clean? The fact that it smoked itself without the monitor plugged in points to those circuits.
IIRC, you can bench test an ARII without any draw on it, but one of the larger voltages will read as half at the test points. 36v, maybe? I forget off the top of my head.
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Which part of the AR smoked? That will tell you where to start debugging. It's very possible the AR was good and the problem was excessive draw from the boards. Are the +/-12, +5, and GND lines on the connectors and edge contacts clean? The fact that it smoked itself without the monitor plugged in points to those circuits.
IIRC, you can bench test an ARII without any draw on it, but one of the larger voltages will read as half at the test points. 36v, maybe? I forget off the top of my head.
It seemed to be the large resistor??? in the middle of the heatsink.
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Regarding the r2 -d2 dome possibly moving randomly and having sounds look here:
http://astromech.net/droidwiki/index.php?title=Dome_And_Sound_Automation_Tutorial (http://astromech.net/droidwiki/index.php?title=Dome_And_Sound_Automation_Tutorial)
http://astromech.net/droidwiki/index.php?title=Dome_Controller_Tutorial (http://astromech.net/droidwiki/index.php?title=Dome_Controller_Tutorial)
Astromech Forum: http://astromech.net/ (http://astromech.net/)
These guys are known as the R2 Builders Club. They are a good bunch of people, they also have a yahoo group if you want to join in! (they also do alot of charity work for local hospitals, etc.)
There are 2-3 people in the community that produce R2 domes either out of aluminum or plastic composite if I recall correctly.
If you want to see a complete working r2-d2 I recommend you visit this page: http://vfranco.blogspot.com/ (http://vfranco.blogspot.com/) (lots of useful info).
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Finally all the repro Amplifone boards and custom transformers are here from Dez. I have a lot of work ahead with this, I'll be covering this on the dedicated thread I have over at KLOV for the monitor build.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/dunupu4u.jpg)
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Why at the KLOV?... I want to see too. :banghead:
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The KLOV thread is here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=281895).
BTW Maximus posts as Griffin on KLOV -- the Paperboy avatar is the dead giveaway. ;D
Scott
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Why at the KLOV?... I want to see too. :banghead:
I think you're allowed to go there.
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Oh all right, But just because I am way curious about this build, (Question) Why diddnt you you go with a cherry masters chassis, and opt for building this from scratch? ...EDIT... After multiple log in attempts @ the other site, Jennifer has been denied acess, (Their loss I guess)
Good luck with your project anyway.
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Whoa dude... You really are jumping into the deep ass water here. Hope it works out for you.
Where did you get those boards? I didn't know anyone had reproed Amplifone boards.
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Whoa dude... You really are jumping into the deep ass water here. Hope it works out for you.
Where did you get those boards? I didn't know anyone had reproed Amplifone boards.
Aye I'm a sucker for punishment. Dezbaz over at KLOV does all the boards
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(Question) Why diddnt you you go with a cherry masters chassis, and opt for building this from scratch?
I have no idea what that is, but that's not a surprise, there's a lot I don't know.
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I guess the displays from a cherry master fruit machine (gambling/vid slots) has chassis parts that are interchangeable with the Amp tube you have? seems weird to me - were any fruit machines vector display? I'm past my limit of knowledge. maybe Jennifer or somebody else up on vector displays can shed some light.
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No not me... But apparently you can count the neck pins, and take a vertical yoke resistance, and have a sutible chassis made from 8 liners, For any tv tube, The vector is where I get lost on this project though, that would probibally wind up going though a converter of some kind... But my worry @ this point is Color monitors got away from XY, so what Im asking is why diddnt you go with a B/w tube to start with?... Who put you up to this, and told you it is possible? EDIT.. Ah, is the Klov guys, ok Ill try login again.
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He doesn't have an amp tube. He has a TV tube with a compatible deflection angle and neck pinout. The yoke isn't going to be quite the same and even a pro will have trouble getting the convergence just right. I've seen TV swapped tubes in a 25" amp before. The SW cockpit at Funspot in NH has one. It's good but it's not perfect and that was a really good tech doing the work with a real amp chassis.
jennifer, why on Earth would he be trying to put a bw tube into an amplifone chassis on a Star Wars boardset? Amps are color monitors and SW is a color game.
TJC, I've never heard of a cherry chassis being usable on a vector monitor. That doesn't mean it can't be done, of course, but I've never heard of it being done. AFAIK those are only raster and even then they're only mostly compatible with the usual WG monitors.
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He doesn't have an amp tube. He has a TV tube with a compatible deflection angle and neck pinout. The yoke isn't going to be quite the same and even a pro will have trouble getting the convergence just right. I've seen TV swapped tubes in a 25" amp before. The SW cockpit at Funspot in NH has one. It's good but it's not perfect and that was a really good tech doing the work with a real amp chassis.
While I don't doubt any of this as being true and know that I have a complicated and scary road ahead, I wanted to clarify a few things.
The tube. From the research I have done so far, I understand that this tube serial #A63AAX02X is actually the exact same tube that Zenith produced and was used in the 25" AMP monitor. It has a single digit different from the serial #A63AAX00X of the tubes used in the AMPs which apparently only refers to the position and angle of the mounting brackets.
The Yoke. I will be using the yoke from a Wells Gardner 19K6100 Quadrascan Color XY Monitor. although it is from a 19" monitor it is also suitable for the 25" tube in this circumstance. This will be coupled with Dezbaz's neck board and an new AMP replacement flyback.
The Boards.
Dezbaz's AMP boards are faithful reproductions of the original HV and Deflection boards. He has made several modifications to the original deign to make them more bulletproof and accommodate some of the mods that the community has embraced over the years. He uses upgraded components wherever possible, and for a few that no longer exist he has even gone to the lengths of hand making some reproduction parts (See the small transformers in the picture). I've even purchased a few reproduction heat sinks for the boards that were custom made by Takeman over at KLOV (Also in the picture).
So there you go. Will it be easy, I seriously doubt it, but I am following in the footsteps of others that have already blazed this trail and I've got great support in the likes of Dez and Pat Danis from vectorlist so hopefully I can be successful.
:cheers:
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He doesn't have an amp tube. He has a TV tube with a compatible deflection angle and neck pinout. The yoke isn't going to be quite the same and even a pro will have trouble getting the convergence just right. I've seen TV swapped tubes in a 25" amp before. The SW cockpit at Funspot in NH has one. It's good but it's not perfect and that was a really good tech doing the work with a real amp chassis.
While I don't doubt any of this as being true and know that I have a complicated and scary road ahead, I wanted to clarify a few things.
The tube. From the research I have done so far, I understand that this tube serial #A63AAX02X is actually the exact same tube that Zenith produced and was used in the 25" AMP monitor. It has a single digit different from the serial #A63AAX00X of the tubes used in the AMPs which apparently only refers to the position and angle of the mounting brackets.
The Yoke. I will be using the yoke from a Wells Gardner 19K6100 Quadrascan Color XY Monitor. although it is from a 19" monitor it is also suitable for the 25" tube in this circumstance. This will be coupled with Dezbaz's neck board and an new AMP replacement flyback.
The Boards.
Dezbaz's AMP boards are faithful reproductions of the original HV and Deflection boards. He has made several modifications to the original deign to make them more bulletproof and accommodate some of the mods that the community has embraced over the years. He uses upgraded components wherever possible, and for a few that no longer exist he has even gone to the lengths of hand making some reproduction parts (See the small transformers in the picture). I've even purchased a few reproduction heat sinks for the boards that were custom made by Takeman over at KLOV (Also in the picture).
So there you go. Will it be easy, I seriously doubt it, but I am following in the footsteps of others that have already blazed this trail and I've got great support in the likes of Dez and Pat Danis from vectorlist so hopefully I can be successful.
:cheers:
Max, I say bedamned the naysayers and full speed ahead >:D. Looking forward to seeing this develop.
Jigenjuke
May the Force be with you, always...
or
May the Swartz be with you, always...
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Max, I say bedamned the naysayers and full speed ahead >:D.
You might want to read up on his diode board woes before you recommend full speed.
I'm sure he can finish it quite quickly and still observe the posted speed limits. :police:
Scott
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Re ChadTower: Oh, I guess I thought that was a B/w game, And consequently that would have been an odd choice of monitor.... I am quite curious about this project and just wanted to get all the facts before it got underway, apparently Jennifer already missed out on the groundbreaking research and parts selection.
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Btw... who is Dez?, those look like nice boards, one of a kind? (in that case maybe you should scan them) or are they available?
And to populate them is everything avalible, Jennifer has piles of old chassis, and crates of NOS if this becomes a problem. Its a big mess however and takes me awhile to find stuff.
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DezBaz is the username on KLOV, he's in Australia, he makes the boards and various other bits and pieces. He provides a parts list for you to get all the components from your favorite supplier, I got 90% of the components from Mouser and then some other bits and pieces I had to hunt around here and there.
Here's Dez's web site
http://www.amazingarcading.com.au/ (http://www.amazingarcading.com.au/)
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Getting ready to attack the AMP deflection and HV boards
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/by2eseby.jpg)
Deflection first
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/e8ezu3az.jpg)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/e8ezu3az.jpg)
That looks like a lot of fun (no joke I love soldering) :cheers:
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It's a nice big board so the soldering will be fun to do, I just have to really take my time and make sure everything goes in the right spot.
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Caps & diodes done. So far so good
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/hejuzyby.jpg)
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hard to see on the pic but I would put more solder on CR1-7 so the solder goes a little up the leg on the component side as on CR1-5. even though there's no trace on the component side its a good habit.
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How much solder to use.
(http://pinballrehab.com/images/articles/terryb/Solder-Amount.png)
Can't tell from your pic, but are you using matchsticks/toothpicks/slivers of cardboard to keep the components slightly elevated while bending the leads and soldering?
This old soldering trick keeps components slightly elevated off the board allowing better cooling and decreasing damage to the board if you let out the magic smoke genie that makes the electronic components work. ;D
Found a great price on this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00871KNHO/) pump-top dispenser for isopropyl alcohol for cleaning flux :applaud: -- PL1 tested, PL1 approved.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41B06Ov3cYL._SY355_.jpg)
Scott
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Thanks for the tips. I wasn't elevating the components but will stay aware of that now. I am going to put big ass fans on both boards for extra cooling. Thats actually one of dez's mods to the deflection board, a 12v riser for a fan
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I am going to put big ass fans on both boards for extra cooling.
Need one? I got 2.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/Basement_Reborn/IMAG0410_zps81221dae.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/Basement_Reborn/IMAG0410_zps81221dae.jpg.html)
The general.
(BTW, inspired by your courage. Wish I had the $$ to do something like this)
AJ
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Thanks for the tips. I wasn't elevating the components but will stay aware of that now. I am going to put big ass fans on both boards for extra cooling. Thats actually one of dez's mods to the deflection board, a 12v riser for a fan
:cheers:
Elevating the parts is most important for resistors, especially the big ones.
Forgot to mention that it also makes desoldering/straightening the leads a bit easier and decreases chances of damage to the solder pad while doing so.
Scott
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I usually do the capacitors (and other large components) later in the process, so it gets more convenient to flip the board when soldering (all low profile components). But as with everything else, there are several ways of doing things and none can be considered right or wrong. Most people wouldn't even go that track at all since they believe soldering is equal to rocket science :)
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I didn't know how to solder, route, slot cut, pocket screw, flame polish and many other things before joining this forum just over a year ago, I've learned so much from following other people's builds and of course doing my own.
What has consistently been true in every successful endevour for me has been the lesson to always use the RIGHT tool for the job and, whenever possible try and get your hands on the best quality tool for the job you can afford.
I bought a middle of the road Hakko soldering station, not digital or anything crazy like that, just a solid unit with a decent heat controller and it has made soldering a breeze rather than a scary nightmare. I mostly use a fine point hooked tip and find it awesome for getting the solder into exactly the right place. :cheers:
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PL1's drawing is fine but it should look like "B" on both sides (component side and solder side of board) for plated through holes.
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>Can't tell from your pic, but are you using matchsticks/toothpicks/slivers of cardboard to keep the components slightly elevated while bending the leads >and soldering?
>This old soldering trick keeps components slightly elevated off the board allowing better cooling and decreasing damage to the board if you let out the >magic smoke genie that makes the electronic components work. ;D
It's been 20 years since earning the degree in electronics, and I'd never once considered this. Great tip!
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Asked this on my KLOV thread too, figured it can't hurt to ask here...
I still have to buy an MPSU-07 for the HV Board. Seems they have been replaced by the CEN-U07 which are also expensive and hard to find in small quantities. Over at AudioKarma.org there is a this thread with a recommended replacement for the CEN-U07, wondering if this will work...
(http://www.kinemote.net/swc/cenu07.jpg)
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Transistors in and properly isolated from the repro heat sink
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/21/egyhy4y9.jpg)
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You did smear the backs of them with thermal grease....Or is it just me that does that? [cant tell from the pics]
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You did smear the backs of them with thermal grease....Or is it just me that does that? [cant tell from the pics]
Yep thermal grease on both sides of the insulators
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A bit of a tangent, but related to the project.
I'm chewing through different ideas for the 'experience' of playing the game and being in the enhanced cabinet and how well i can tie the two together. If anyone has ever played any of SlamTilt's modded Virtual Pin tables you'll see how well he takes the original and then trys to weave in more exciting/interesting/higher quality effects that add to the overall play experience.
I'd like to try and take this approach, not with the code of the game itself, I want that to stay pure to the original, but there could be an extra 'layer' of sound effects, lighting and force feedback added to the cabinet itself that could add to the overall experience.
e.g.
Attract Mode.
From the outside the cab could have it's own light display, like ground FX, landing hazard beacon, I was thinking of replacing the traditional lit marquee at the back of the machine with as screen that shows the original marquee art but also maybe iconic clips from the New Hope movie that are relevant to the game. Sound FX, speech and of course some legendary John Williams soundtrack bursts etc.
Coin-up.
I figured if I piggyback the coin switch I can send a signal to my cab control PC via a keyboard encoder and use scripts to fire different sequences. So on coin-up perhaps I can blast out a fanfair and some other speech clips alongside obi-wan's speech.
In Game.
Plenty of opportunity to get R2-D2 beepin' and boopin' away here, play more radio chatter over the speakers. background shots and explosions etc, although I doubt I could key them into specific game events due to what I assume would be a lack of hooks from the game itself. The hardest part about this is letting the sequence know what the game is doing and know when to adjust or end.
Yoke Movement/Buttons
Should be easy enough to add some ambient sounds, swooshes, blaster booms etc by piggyback monitoring the outputs.
Extra In Game Events
By using real buttons on the CP, there may be an opportunity to do extra little in game events, like simulate a hit on the ship and have warning sirens go off. The player would have to hit the right flashing buttons on the CP to Purge Fire, Shutdown a faulty engine, seal a hull breach etc etc. They of course don't effect the actual game itself, but could be fun environmental activities to add the drama of it all.
Lot's of fun potential here to really take this to the next level.
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Such a cool idea with the ambient sounds. Cannot wait to see how you are going to implement it all
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Dude, something is seriously wrong with you.....keep drinking the acid... :applaud: :applaud:
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Id keep it somewhat simple in case you ever have to service this when its done, Perhaps a shakey steering @ high speed turns
[racing game], and a thumper under the seat in case you get hit [snowmoble game].
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About half way through the resistors, there are 79 on this board.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/emedyheb.jpg)
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One of your resistors is backwards
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One of your resistors is backwards
/slap
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One of your resistors is backwards
/slap
:laugh:
It's looking good griff, makes me want to find a project to do that involves soldering up a big board....
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Well you could always do one of these, a 25" Amplifone is a rare beast to own.
Resistors, pots & posistor all done
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/dyra8e7a.jpg)
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How much was the total for board and components, if you don't mind my asking? I oddly like doing some board building, so I may be up for building one.
Edit: and would these boards only work for a 25" setup, or something smaller as well?
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The whole build has probably cost something in the range of $500 for everything including flybacks, the tube from CL, boards, heat sinks, components and a yoke from a WG 19K6100. Not sure why you would want to try building a smaller tube, you could buy a 19K6100 for much less than $500.
The hard part is finding the 25" tube and a 6100 Yoke.
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Well you could always do one of these, a 25" Amplifone is a rare beast to own.
Resistors, pots & posistor all done
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/dyra8e7a.jpg)
Tasty, It looks factory fresh, but better :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Resistors, pots & posistor all done
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/dyra8e7a.jpg)
Well, what's the business side look like?
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Well, what's the business side look like?
(http://www.mikebarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSCF1656-4x3-sharp.jpg)
:laugh2:
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Not sure why you would want to try building a smaller tube, you could buy a 19K6100 for much less than $500.
Major Havoc build, so looking in the 19"-21" range, but if it's easier to just find a 19K6100 I'd go with that. I like to tinker and I'm pretty good with a soldering iron, so it seems like a fun project. I even setup a soldering station in the lab (I think 90% people here must be in IT) once I got back into the hobby.
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Well, what's the business side look like?
(http://www.mikebarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSCF1656-4x3-sharp.jpg)
:laugh2:
Oh god...
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I just got a little concerned here, Perhaps start over on a new board before its too late, and you wind up frying that tube...Only saying. :dunno
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I just got a little concerned here, Perhaps start over on a new board before its too late, and you wind up frying that tube...Only saying. :dunno
If your concern is with this photo:
(http://www.mikebarden.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/DSCF1656-4x3-sharp.jpg)
Fear not, that is not Griff's board. I see no SMD components on his. Joke by the doctor I believe, clever girl.
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Omg, Yes I see now,dont do that to Jen, Im already so high stress something like that would push me off the edge...Carry on. :o
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Sorry, that was just a joke.
Maximus is doing a far better job than that!
My soldering, on the other hand.... :embarassed:
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Sorry, that was just a joke.
Maximus is doing a far better job than that!
My soldering, on the other hand.... :embarassed:
Found one of your builds
(http://gyazo.com/fa6aab19ef8e20cd49eccbab5bb6af22.png?1345632756)
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Deflection nearly complete. Just the 3 transistors that are in the mail and the heat sink for the Q30 to do.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/23/avynezy9.jpg)
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Sorry, that was just a joke.
Maximus is doing a far better job than that!
My soldering, on the other hand.... :embarassed:
Found one of your builds
(http://gyazo.com/fa6aab19ef8e20cd49eccbab5bb6af22.png?1345632756)
:laugh2:
Epic!
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Well while we wait for parts Jennifer has some questions....#1, The tube/yoke combo still confuses me, apparently you went to great pains searching out that particular setup, but why?, My only guess would be as an attempt to change picture from horz. to vertical, other than that why not just stay with orig. yoke?...#2, Convergence: after removing said yoke convergence will need to be recalibrated, Considerable test equipment is going to have to be implemented to pull this project off correctly, especially since it's built from the ground up.[you're aware of that right?]...#3, Physics, Although beyond this thread, In theory then, couldn't you drive the colors to white effectively creating a B/W,[X/Y], monitor with a color tube?
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As I understand it the windings on the 6100 yoke are needed to get the correct deflection angle of 100 degrees for the tube, (I probably have all the wrong words in that description).
Convergance - Yes this is the biggest concern and potentially the greatest hurdle, thankfully I do have a bunch of people much smarter than myself on this issue to lean on for assistance.
Physics - no idea.
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In theory then, couldn't you drive the colors to white effectively creating a B/W,[X/Y], monitor with a color tube?
In theory, a B/W vector signal applied in parallel to all three electron guns of a properly aligned color vector monitor would result in a white (R+G+B) display.
Scott
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damn,you building arcade unit, or a freakin ray gun....
Alien talk...speak english...
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or a freakin ray gun....
Ironically that's exactly what I'm building if you think about it
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damn,you building arcade unit, or a freakin ray gun....
Alien talk...speak english...
??? The CRT was invented more than a decade before the introduction of the Model T Ford. :dizzy:
This isn't some luddite forum so quit yer whiny complaining and do some basic background reading (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode_ray_tube) on this 116 year old technology, Rodney. >:D :lol
Scott
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OHHHH SNAP! You just got served rablack!
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This isn't some luddite forum so quit yer whiny complaining and do some basic background reading (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode_ray_tube) on this 116 year old technology, Rodney. >:D :lol
Scott
(http://replygif.net/i/423.gif)
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Relax, guys -- Rodney knows I'm just speaking the truth as a friend. (Right, Rod? ;D)
I want him to join the "smart people" instead of railing against them.
He has what it takes. :cheers:
Scott
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I just heard Ben Affleck is playing Harrison Ford in the new Stars War movie!
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I just heard Ben Affleck is playing Harrison Ford in the new Stars War movie!
I thought Matt Damon was playing Catwoman in the new Hobbit movie? Amirite? No?
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I just heard Ben Affleck is playing Harrison Ford in the new Stars War movie!
Just an ugly rumor. Actually, Disney has said that they want to turn the Star Wars franchise in a more family friendly direction, and on that note, the script will be more comedic, and they will be casting Will Smith to play all of the lead roles.
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Actually, Disney has said that they want to turn the Star Wars franchise in a more family friendly direction, and on that note, the script will be more comedic, and they will be casting Will Smith to play all of the lead roles.
And yet that would still be better than anything Lucas did with the prequels.
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Started into the HV board, smaller overall but looks more complicated with the focus blocks mods and flyback etc.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/7yja7eja.jpg)
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Uh excuse me Scott,
You'll have to forgive the fact that i haven't dug into CRT technology in my spare time. Not everyone can speak vulcan in this forum, and the convos do get really techy. I have no problem with this, I wasn't derailing smart people, I just merely said speak english so those following might be able to understand it better.
Not everyone is capable of providing 3d schematic drawings in color cross referenced with wiki threads on how to screw in a light bulb like you dear sir.
It was just a figure of speech or a comment in light of this build....
Regardless carry on.....
damn,you building arcade unit, or a freakin ray gun....
Alien talk...speak english...
??? The CRT was invented more than a decade before the introduction of the Model T Ford. :dizzy:
This isn't some luddite forum so quit yer whiny complaining and do some basic background reading (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathode_ray_tube) on this 116 year old technology, Rodney. >:D :lol
Scott
This went in to the nonsense folder..... :blah: :blah:
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Wg6100 focus block spliced into the Amplifone flyback
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/26/3ygyheze.jpg)
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Horse stethoscope....
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Horse stethoscope....
"This end goes in your mouth and this end goes in you butt.......no...wait.....THIS end goes in your mouth....and this end..."
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Horse stethoscope....
"This end goes in your mouth and this end goes in you butt.......no...wait.....THIS end goes in your mouth....and this end..."
Epic movie!
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For the love of god. 7 pages and not one splinter to be had by the builder.
Maximus promise me there will be sawdust by page 30.? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
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For the love of god. 7 pages and not one splinter to be had by the builder.
Maximus promise me there will be sawdust by page 30.? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
Lol hard to say, the cabinet is the last thing that will get done on this project, I'm not going to all that effort until I know I have a pristine working system and monitor etc to put in it.
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Lol hard to say, the cabinet is the last thing that will get done on this project, I'm not going to all that effort until I know I have a pristine working system and monitor etc to put in it.
Exactly.
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For the love of god. 7 pages and not one splinter to be had by the builder.
Maximus promise me there will be sawdust by page 30.? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
Lol hard to say, the cabinet is the last thing that will get done on this project, I'm not going to all that effort until I know I have a pristine working system and monitor etc to put in it.
Couldn't you just mock something up to appease me. :laugh2: :laugh2: On a serious note. I know all to well the effort being made on this build, Keep at it mate im enjoying the none saw dust build in wood free way :laugh2: :laugh2:
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I was all like wondering how you spliced those cables, From the bumps Im guessing crimp?
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I wove the inside wiring then carefully put back the two layers of insulation and then used heavy duty glue lined shrink tube
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Horse stethoscope....
"This end goes in your mouth and this end goes in you butt.......no...wait.....THIS end goes in your mouth....and this end..."
That's more like it, no lecture, just good old fashion comedy.....
For the love of god. 7 pages and not one splinter to be had by the builder.
Maximus promise me there will be sawdust by page 30.? :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
:angry: +1 cut some wood man....get your hands dirty.
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Are you messing with my head?... You did that for real?... Im not saying its wrong I guess, just never saw it done that way.
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:angry: +1 cut some wood man....get your hands dirty.
Beotch please...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/ezaza2a7.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/ary6eged.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/amudega4.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/merepequ.jpg)
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Uhhh, Beotch please nothing.....
That looks nothing like this
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/vyheve8a.jpg)
We are referring to cutting wood on this project, sir...
No one is doubting your ninja jigsaw woodcutting skills.... :notworthy:
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Actually now we have the new house to deal with the tools will be cutting and chopping in other places. We have a whole master bed and ensuite that we are going to demo ourselves to save coin before the contractors come in a make it all pretty, looking forward to this in the 'magic room'
(http://ih2.redbubble.net/image.14203864.0689/flat,550x550,075,f.jpg)
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damn, thats hella sweet.......
No worries man just giving you a hard time, i' know you'll get around to it eventually.... :cheers:
Congrats on the new crib!!!!!
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i' know you'll get around to it eventually.... :cheers:
True that. I mean, everybody gets their cabs finished eventually, right? Right?
;)
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i' know you'll get around to it eventually.... :cheers:
True that. I mean, everybody gets their cabs finished eventually, right? Right?
;)
:whap :lol
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(http://ih2.redbubble.net/image.14203864.0689/flat,550x550,075,f.jpg)
Is that a rainfall shower head I see in the ceiling? ;)
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yeah an happy ending jets on the wall
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Any hoooooo
Deflection board complete
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/27/su5a6a9u.jpg)
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From here it looks like a really good job......Care to release some HQ shots so I can scrutinize your work, a bit of PCB Porn if you will.
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From here it looks like a really good job......Care to release some HQ shots so I can scrutinize your work, a bit of PCB Porn if you will.
Sure I can do some hi res shots when all the boards wiring etc are done
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Is that a rainfall shower head I see in the ceiling? ;)
yeah an happy ending jets on the wall
You two wanna be alone?
;)
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You two wanna be alone?
;)
(http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3205/castingcouch.jpg)
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Any hoooooo
Deflection board complete
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/27/su5a6a9u.jpg)
:dunno :dunno :dunno :dizzy:
So lost right now,
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HV board making slow progress
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/27/y6erygan.jpg)
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I am convinced. That is hella good PCB work. :cheers:
If he pulls this off I might have to start hunting for a compatible tube myself.
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Thanks Chad I'm just slowly plodding through this trying to make sure I don't miss anything.
Heat sink painted and on. Atill some isolation to do, a little bridging and one more transistor in the mail
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/eta2u2ah.jpg)
Also I have completed collecting all the parts for the guts of the game including control panel and coin door etc. Game powers on now and gives me solid red lights on all game boards. The counter ticks over when I flick the coin drop switch but alas no speech or music from the speaker. I can control the volume from the pot on the control panel ok but no sound so far.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/uhujyvan.jpg)
Until I have my monitor built I won't know much more about the operational status of the game
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Que? :dunno
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I am convinced. That is hella good PCB work. :cheers:
If he pulls this off I might have to start hunting for a compatible tube myself.
Im still looking into why the 6100 yoke, Apparently this Dez designed this board to be compatible with it [for whatever reason], the Tv had a yoke the was designed to deflect that particular tube. My only guess so far is he wanted to change the resistance of the vertical [again for whatever reason]....I will agree with you however, Maximus is doing a nice job, and it does look fun. :P
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Having the monitor built isn't going to help at this point. If the game PCB isn't booting then all you're going to get with the monitor is a spot killer anyway.
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aye, no doubt it's not going to be as easy as that lol.
Still waiting on some 18 awg to arrive to build the HV/neckboard wiring harnesses but then I should be at the end of the construction phase of the electronics. After that I have to transfer the 6100 yoke to the tube and then it will all be ready to hook together.
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HV board, neck board and wiring harness complete.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/uqu9e3u3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ugyta4aj.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/huhamure.jpg)
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:dunno :cry:
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:dunno :cry:
It's OK. Just keep telling yourself its magic and Maximus is a wizard. :D
Can't wait to see this fired up.
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It's OK. Just keep telling yourself its magic and Maximus is a wizard. :D
Is that true, Joel?
(http://i2.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/000/117/814/are-you-wizard.jpg)
Scott
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Well I do like fancy capes and sparkles.
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I need to get to work finding one of those televisions.
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That's something COMPLETELY different. ;)
Not that there's anything wrong with that.
AJ
Well I do like fancy capes and sparkles.
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The magical 6100 yoke
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/a7a6aby7.jpg)
Marked up the convergence rings orientation and position on the neck then carefully removed them along with the existing yoke
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/ese8a2uv.jpg)
Put the 6100 yoke on in exactly the same place as the old yoke using the wedges as my position. Then used my marks to put the Rings back
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/7esajety.jpg)
Getting closer to power on day
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/aha2ebab.jpg)
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Dude, that is crazy awesome. Hope it works without much fanfare, if you know what I mean.
AJ
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Hope it works without much fanfare, if you know what I mean.
Yeah me too although I'm pretty sure I wont be that lucky. I don't even know if my SW board set works or not so there are a lot of unknowns to still overcome.
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If the board set functions, and you're not in test mode, you should be able to coin up and play blind. Note that this could still be the case with bad video output. And you could have good boards, but a bad monitor, and that will look the same since both result in a spot killer on the monitor.
You would benefit GREATLY from a second working color atari vector boardset and a second working 6100 or amp. That way you could test the parts independently. Working on Atari vectors is a bucket of variables until you can verify either the boardset or the monitor actually works.
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Yep. Anyone got a SW cab they wanna drop off at my house for a while? I'll only pull it to pieces a few times. :dizzy:
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Even the pros cant "eyeball" that convergence [even though some say they they can] ,at the very least Id invest in a tester,http://kleininstruments.com/gauges/convergence-gauge/ or take it to a service shop for alignment when it is working.
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Good luck finding a TV repair shop that will do any more than offer to drill a hole in a CRT for you.
Any color Atari vector boardset would work if you have the harness too... yeah, yeah, I know, easier said than done... but not knowing if you have a board output problem or a monitor input problem, or possibly both, is a pretty big hurdle here.
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Yep, well we'll see what
explodes happens when I plug it in.
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Good luck finding a TV repair shop that will do any more than offer to drill a hole in a CRT for you.
Any color Atari vector boardset would work if you have the harness too... yeah, yeah, I know, easier said than done... but not knowing if you have a board output problem or a monitor input problem, or possibly both, is a pretty big hurdle here.
You would be surprised how smart some of those old dudes are, They don't deal well with random questions however, Just the job at hand...
As for the boardset, A dual trace scope will verify the fact the board is sending the XY signals.
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You would be surprised how smart some of those old dudes are, They don't deal well with random questions however, Just the job at hand...
They don't exist anymore in most places. All of the independent TV repair shops here are gone.
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Deflection harness done.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/05/zy6u6eha.jpg)
Only a few minor things to do now. Hook up the degauss strip and DAG spring and get these boards mounted nicely.
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You do some great work; your boards are very clean.
This thread is like the old time serials. I'm getting anxious with anticipation as to what will happen next. :)
Jake
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You would be surprised how smart some of those old dudes are, They don't deal well with random questions however, Just the job at hand...
They don't exist anymore in most places. All of the independent TV repair shops here are gone.
I think my dad was the last in his area. They let him work way past any rational limit. Past 70, and was really doing little more than making coffee for the rest of the tv store in the morning, but if someone DID come in with a tube television, I'm betting he could repair it blind.
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Assembly complete!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/15/e9asa5ub.jpg)
Ready to start doing voltage testing and HV configuration
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fingers crossed. If that bad boy works trouble free you'll be crowned king of Vectorland. :burgerking:
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If that bad boy works trouble free you'll be crowned king of Vectorland.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aiSsN6RQbvo/UBaVvYkCWnI/AAAAAAAADbE/0I9tZAoBjKg/s1600/Vector%2B-%2BDespicable%2BMe.jpg)
OH YEAH!!! OH YEAH!!!
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I have a fluke 80K-40 HV probe coming from eBay so I can set the 19.5KV over voltage trip circuit, until that arrives I can't move forward much
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
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Fingers crossed. Ankles, too, if it helps.
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Well I do like fancy capes and sparkles.
Do you want to rephase that? :laugh2:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TGH5rvsDcxs/TFb418cnKtI/AAAAAAAAAPs/vIydMi7gkC4/s1600/sparkling-edward-cullen-wallpaper-small.jpg)
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Fingers crossed. Ankles, too, if it helps.
One foot on the floor at all times, And be home before midnight...Omg, you sound like my mother !!!!
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Aaaaaand.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBJGOo6_Lh0
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Aaaaaand.....
Spoiler alert: ".....we got nothin'. Nothin', nothin', nothin'."
Bloody L, I didn't know you had an accent.
:D
Good luck with the troubleshooting.
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Yep suspecting the deflection board at this point as it showed no spot killer and no beam
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Just part of the learning process.
My philosophy is that I can do anything any professional can, but it will take me five times as long and I'll spend twice as much in parts.
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Yeah. He has about 8 of them. :cheers:
AJ
Bloody L, I didn't know you had an accent.
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I adjusted the screen and focus pots on the focus block and got a good old white dot which makes me feel better, at least the monitor is alive.
At this point I could be up against the obvious hurdle of a dead board set as I always suspected. I know all my voltages are correct at the power brick and the ar2 and I do have solid red lights on all game boards but no audio and no video signal points to this being a no boot board set at this point.
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OMG....Jenn missed the big moment, I loved the big suspenseful way you turned the power on, [I may have actualy squealed noooo], Its close now, things rarely work right out of the box. :applaud:
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I adjusted the screen and focus pots on the focus block and got a good old white dot which makes me feel better, at least the monitor is alive.
That's awesome. Knowing me, my wife would come in the garage and just find a pile of ash where I once stood if I was working on that thing.
Good on ya, mate!
AJ
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I managed to move the beam in both axis with the horizontal and vertical scale pots so that's a pretty good sign that the deflection board is okay. I have good neck glow on the tube and sharp focus thanks to the 6100 flyback focus block mod.
Looking very much like a dead game board right now which kind of kills my stride until I can find a suitable board to do more testing with
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Just mame it :laugh2: But seriously how hard are replacement games to find?
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Just mame it :laugh2: But seriously how hard are replacement games to find?
SW is a difficult one, and they are expensive, a working board set can cost upwards of $250
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Just mame it :laugh2: But seriously how hard are replacement games to find?
SW is a difficult one, and they are expensive, a working board set can cost upwards of $250
If you can even find a working one...they are few and far between these days.
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Eldorado did a great job on my Enduro racer board....And was resonable.http://eldoradogames.com/ (http://eldoradogames.com/)
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Eldorado did a great job on my Enduro racer board....And was resonable.http://eldoradogames.com/ (http://eldoradogames.com/)
Thanks Jennifer, I will hit them up.
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Knowing me, my wife would come in the garage and just find a pile of ash where I once stood if I was working on that thing.
I have to admit I was NOT a happy puppy adjusting the voltages for the over-volt cutoff circuit. You have to power on the monitor with the HV probe jammed under the anode cup and shorted to the exposed DAG spring/wire. It crackles like a FOTHERMUCKER!!!! Then you have to turn a tiny pot on the HV board, your hand very close to the flyback and other nasties, until the voltage goes all the way up to 25,000V, the higher it goes the more intense the crackling gets from the anode cup. At this point demon voices are coming from the anode saying things like 'Swallow your soul!!!'.
So now you have 25,000V travelling between the anode and that exposed wire on the back of the tube, about 5 inches from your hand. :-\
Now you have to turn down the cutoff POT until it kills all power to the circuit and the voltmeter drops to zero. Then turn it all off, drop the main voltage pot below 25,000V so it doesn't trip as soon as you turn it on. Then you have to turn it back on and drop the tube voltage all the way down to 19,500V which is where it's supposed to operate at, again while it is all live. At 19,500V the demon voices just sing 'Burninating the Countryside and the THATCHED ROOF COTTAGESSSSSSSS!!!!' so not quite as scary as they were before.
After all that, you have to have enough faith in that probe to actually take hold of it and disconnect it from the anode and DAG circuit of certain death (while the power is off of course).
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Man, that's the stuff of nightmares.
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Sound like Jennifer peeing on the stick. ::)
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That sounds horrible.
Here's some comic relief:
Superstar (1999) - The Devil Went Down to Georgia (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIfNLRSj4GE#)
:cheers:
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OK Eldorado games said they could take the boards in for repair so I'm going to get them off to them next week. Looks like about a month or so turnaround.
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So now you have 25,000V travelling between the anode and that exposed wire on the back of the tube, about 5 inches from your hand. :-\
and THAT is why I went into digital electronics instead of following my dad's footsteps in tv repair. 5V logic didn't hurt nearly as much.
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So now you have 25,000V travelling between the anode and that exposed wire on the back of the tube, about 5 inches from your hand. :-\
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnKObAvS3Pw/Tw4lxJeDXiI/AAAAAAAAAmc/JrKWnADRNFc/s150/cop-out-nope.gif)
Yup, that's a whole lotta -nope- on me ever doing that. LCD and rom set it is!
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Got a real nail biter on your hands there Maximus. This is tantamount to the Eagle landing on the Apollo 11 mission..."One small small step for a kick-butt arcade cab, one giant leap for BYOAC".
You got balls bro, seriously, you got balls and brains. Got my respect no matter if it works or not (but I am praying it does), keep at it :applaud: .
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Winner of the deadliest game of Operation.
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After a lot of input from some of the KLOV crew and a bunch of testing i am fairly confident in the following assumptions
HV Board works
Deflection board works including spot killer
Tube/yoke/neckboard all work with glow
Power supply works and tests correct
Ar2 works and tests correct
Game boards no worky
No beeps in test mode, no blind play, no video and no audio so the next stage is to get these things repaired.
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The boards were always suspect. Frustrating? Yes. But overall great results thus far!!!
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Screw the boards! Look what you made!
Oh, and the artwork on your monitor mount is epic. Stars War. How'd you get that permanent marker look in that font?
AJ
After a lot of input from some of the KLOV crew and a bunch of testing i am fairly confident in the following assumptions
HV Board works
Deflection board works including spot killer
Tube/yoke/neckboard all work with glow
Power supply works and tests correct
Ar2 works and tests correct
Game boards no worky
No beeps in test mode, no blind play, no video and no audio so the next stage is to get these things repaired.
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That's the original Stars War font man, jeeze how could you not know that?
Getting set up at the new house.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/22/gemu5y4a.jpg)
Until I get my shed built i will be camping out in the garage for my workspace. Hopefully this will only be for a month or so.
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So, how many games did the movers play?
AJ
That's the original Stars War font man, jeeze how could you not know that?
Getting set up at the new house.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/22/gemu5y4a.jpg)
Until I get my shed built i will be camping out in the garage for my workspace. Hopefully this will only be for a month or so.
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Lol none we haven't moved yet, a buddy helped me move all this, I'm not letting those monkeys loose on my pride and joy collection
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Yeah, let them move the china and jewelry. :cheers:
AJ
Lol none we haven't moved yet, a buddy helped me move all this, I'm not letting those monkeys loose on my pride and joy collection
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Onward and upward!!!
I've started a new thread over at KLOV focusing on the game board repair. The Beginner Vs. Star Wars: Ep II 'The Board Wars' (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=2564138#post2564138). I figured it made more sense to document the classic hardware part of this build in a forum more dedicated to that kind of stuff while giving basic updates in this general build thread. When it comes to the actual design and building of the cabinet then all of that will be focused on here.
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I figured it made more sense to document the classic hardware part of this build in a forum more dedicated to that kind of stuff while giving basic updates in this general build thread.
Hold on a second, what's this sticking out of my back?
;)
Seriously though, it's not really that much fun to start reading a thread, and then find out it's migrated to another forum completely. If it were me, I'd start two threads, and update them each at the same time. Maybe I'm in the minority here, but I think that there is an entire community of people right here who are consistently interested in threads started by certain users, and that's just depriving them of their 'fix'.
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I think I've done a pretty good job of doing that with the monitor build already, that also had it's own dedicated technical thread over at KLOV but I think I've kept this thread pretty well updated with it's progress too.
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Just wondering if you need an ID on KLOV to view threads. When I click on the link, it's all greyed out.
AJ
I think I've done a pretty good job of doing that with the monitor build already, that also had it's own dedicated technical thread over at KLOV but I think I've kept this thread pretty well updated with it's progress too.
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I don't think you do, how do you mean grayed out? That's a bit odd
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Just wondering if you need an ID on KLOV to view threads. When I click on the link, it's all greyed out.
You need an ID, recommendation from existing KLOV Member, government issued photo ID, credit card number, blood test, first born's footprint, and the soul of a small furry animal - no badgers.
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Last post didn't take. :dunno
Figured it out. A google survey popped up infront of the site. Once I answered whether I was or wanted to become a teacher, I could read the post.
AJ
I don't think you do, how do you mean grayed out? That's a bit odd
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I guess they are trying to make a bit of revenue by making non-members take a survey, hrmmmmm, oh well I guess they need to pay their hosting bills somehow.
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yeah, no biggie. It's just in Firefox, the survey stayed at the top of the "page" while I was actually viewing the last post. When I went back up to the top, the survey was there.
Weird.
AJ
I guess they are trying to make a bit of revenue by making non-members take a survey, hrmmmmm, oh well I guess they need to pay their hosting bills somehow.
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You need to copy an existing member's fingerprint with latex to get on board the S.S. KLOV ;D
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haha what the hell Rick
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haha what the hell Rick
I don't want Maximus to go.
:(
I just returned to the BYOAC after a year or so hiatus, to find some of the previous "every day" Members have left... ...guys that I had read their threads - searched their threads out - daily... ...and I don't like seeing it happen first hand. Now, I know Maximus isn't saying he's moving from here to there, but still. I do read some KLOV threads, and I also read some of our more prolific Members over on VPforums.com as well as on Hyperspin-FE forums, but it's honestly not the same.
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(http://i.qkme.me/3p84p8.jpg)
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(http://i.qkme.me/3p84p8.jpg)
:laugh2: :laugh2:
Of all the ribbing Rick has been getting lately in the other posts (I mean seriously, a full page of nothing but dick jokes in the bar-top build post? :lol ), THIS had me rolling this morning.
Simply hilarious.
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Ive tried looking @ the Klove, Seems I cant log in or something.... The place is just stupid.
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Ive tried looking @ the Klove, Seems I cant log in or something.... The place is just stupid.
Go to the top of the page, they have a Google survey for none members. Just click an answer and the greyed out overlay goes away, it's a bit crap I must admit, although when you are logged in it's never an issue.
Currently waiting for my logic probe to arrive before I can start doing basic board tests, also moving house this week so doubtful anything will happen on this for a little while.
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A probe probabbly wont get you very far, unless you know if your looking for a high or low signal, The Shack has a DIY thing I beleive, uses a 555 and a led on a breadboard... A scope would be the right tool for that job.
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Yep looking for a decent used scope now but they are a tad pricey
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Sound like Jennifer peeing on the stick. ::)
That's way scarier than adjusting HV. :o
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Ahhh crap. Guess I'm not doing much for a few weeks
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/u2yhabeq.jpg)
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What?! Kick that stuff out and get on with it! :laugh2:
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I know right? Master bed and bath remodel isn't finished so all that furniture has no home for a while.
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Ahhh crap. Guess I'm not doing much for a few weeks
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/u2yhabeq.jpg)
:o
Best laid schemes of mice and men....
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Ahhh crap. Guess I'm not doing much for a few weeks
Oh man, I can totally relate. We currently have this busted p.o.s. pickup truck parked in our garage (aka: my workshop) that is totally roadblocking my getting started with anything. (It was parked in a spot outside, but we started getting nasty notes from the HOA).
And wouldn'tcha know it ... the DAY I called a charity to come get it, my wife decides she wants to sell it to some other company - just as soon as she registers it with the DMV as inoperable :banghead:
It's been a week or so - so I'm gonna move it back outside for (at least) the weekend.
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Just a quick update.
I'm starting to get into the board testing now that I have managed to clear some space in the garage to lay everything out.
Currently the board isn't even booting or performing any diagnostic tests, it just sits with solid red LEDs all the time. I'm learning how to use my Oscilloscope properly so that is fun, also I'm having fun testing with the logic probe that I bought. The combination of these two and a decent multi Meter is making it much easier to follow the guidance I am getting over at KLOV to test the various chips and circuits.
So far we have reduced the first problem area to that of the watchdogging and reset circuits that are keeping the game board in a permanent state of reset, which would explain why it never boots or performs any diagnostics.
Pretty fascinating stuff to walk through when you are being guided by someone who knows, otherwise it would be pure hell for sure.
If you're interested in all the nitty gritty hi, lo, mhz, clocks and pin-outs gobbledeegook then you can follow along with the dedicated board repair thread here (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=288626)
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Small update to let you all know the project is still alive. I have a full set of cut plans now for the cockpit thanks to DPTwiz over at KLOV who let me use his patterns.
Currently I am getting some major schooling on PCB repair and schematic reading by some very kind folks at KLOV. I've been spending many nights testing the boards and recording my results. No good news to report yet but I'm learning a whole new area of the hobby.
My workshop looks a lot more like a lab than a sawmill these days and I'm loving the challenge and learning curve.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/20/gy8y8e5y.jpg)
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I wish I could be more than just a cheerleader at this point...but great project! Some of the chatter between some of the regulars here has been incredibly amusing :lol
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Neat move doing your own board repair rather than just packing them off to a specialist. I'm pulling for you too. I've gotten great satisfaction from my forays into pinball board repair. :cheers:
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Thanks TJC .
Well for all the faith and work we are starting to see some results
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6bdhZKgRGw
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Nice work, this is a test mode? Did the roms turn out ok?
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Nice work, this is a test mode? Did the roms turn out ok?
Yep this is test mode, it seems to be stuck in that mode right now. I have a full set of game, sound and video roms on the way
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I've seen that caused by bad/dirty dip switches. Board looks "stuck" but what it really meant in that case was "shorted test mode switch".
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I've seen that caused by bad/dirty dip switches. Board looks "stuck" but what it really meant in that case was "shorted test mode switch".
On the SW board I don't think the DIP switches are used for the test mode, it's a tab you need to ground, also I installed brand new DIP switches as the ones on the board were smashed. It is a bit odd, I am hoping that it's either the missing game ROM in socket #1 or the self test ROM in #4 is all crazy face. I have a full set of working ROMs on the way from a KLOV member who pulled them from a working SW board when he upgraded his to a SW/ESB kit.
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On the SW board I don't think the DIP switches are used for the test mode, it's a tab you need to ground, also I installed brand new DIP switches as the ones on the board were smashed. It is a bit odd, I am hoping that it's either the missing game ROM in socket #1 or the self test ROM in #4 is all crazy face. I have a full set of working ROMs on the way from a KLOV member who pulled them from a working SW board when he upgraded his to a SW/ESB kit.
Yeah, on SW, it might be a switch on the coin door... can't remember for sure in this case. If it is the cause may be in the harness for similar reasons. Just another thing you can rule out with the DMM while waiting for the package.
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Yeah, on SW, it might be a switch on the coin door... can't remember for sure in this case. If it is the cause may be in the harness for similar reasons. Just another thing you can rule out with the DMM while waiting for the package.
Yep it could definitely be the harness, I have the service panel unplugged in case the switch was shorting there, but it still does it, so I'll have to look for shorts across that pin on the harness. Also it could just be defaulting to the test as it can't launch the game without all the game ROMS. The other weird part is the fact that it is auto advancing through the tests without me hitting aux coin at all.
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Is it advancing with a consistent timing or seemingly at random intervals?
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Is it advancing with a consistent timing or seemingly at random intervals?
It looks pretty consistent
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Wow talk about labor intensive haha.
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Just wanted to drop in and show you guys this isn't dead, just moving very slowly. Game boards repaired, 25" Amp repro built and working, still needs a few tiny refinements, but it's pretty much complete.
Stars War game play (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PYxdCi_kFU#ws)
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Epic game play. That's a grail!
AJ
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Que the SAWDUST chants, lol
After the news on the v-pin build I was getting nervous. Glad to see all the work in that 25" chassis payed off.
And congrats on the Barrel winning a 2013 award. :applaud:
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Just wanted to drop in and show you guys this isn't dead, just moving very slowly. Game boards repaired, 25" Amp repro built and working, still needs a few tiny refinements, but it's pretty much complete.
.
What are the implications for this? Can any yahoo that can find a tube that hasn't been destroyed get a vector cab? Are you a sith lord or can any padawan do use the force to do this?
Either way, it looks super exciting.
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Hrmmm,
Good question, I was a Padawan when I started the project but I'm definitely creeping closer to Jedi Initiate these days. If you can follow instruction well, wield a soldering iron and you're lucky enough to find the right parts then yes you could to it too. It's just a lot of work, research and troubleshooting.
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You forgot $$ and a cool wife that let's you spend it.
Jedi indeed.
AJ
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Yes this is a spendy project, the parts list alone for the monitor is around $500 and that's with snagging the tube for $50 and getting a buddy hookup price on a WG6100 yoke
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You lead a charmed life, my man. Awesome!
AJ
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Sure it looks like it plays great but where do you put your drink?! >:D
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Stars War game play (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PYxdCi_kFU#ws)
Well it's obvious somebody used to bullseye womp rats in their T16 back home. :D
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still needs a few tiny refinements, but it's pretty much complete.
Hot glue some action figures across the top, slap a poster on the side, and call her done! ;)
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HA!
Sure it looks like it plays great but where do you put your drink?! >:D
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...Nerds.
;D
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Thats awesome.
Its funny, when you think about all the time, money, work, and frustration that must have gone into this for a game that lasted about 1min 20 sec from start to end. Its amazing how a challenge can motivate some one and how the feeling of accomplishment after makes it all worth while.
Congratulations, and good luck with the rest of the build.
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Thats awesome.
Its funny, when you think about all the time, money, work, and frustration that must have gone into this for a game that lasted about 1min 20 sec from start to end. Its amazing how a challenge can motivate some one and how the feeling of accomplishment after makes it all worth while.
Congratulations, and good luck with the rest of the build.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/9/98/Stuart_Smalley.jpg/300px-Stuart_Smalley.jpg)
:lol
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(http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/40c7/eb2tfn2zcugbpzhfg.jpg)
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(http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/40c7/eb2tfn2zcugbpzhfg.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sw_h_JPzx2o/TfUZNYwqypI/AAAAAAAABjk/KBhCVL9Gug4/s640/tumblr_lm0l76hYEz1qzbs6po1_500.jpg)
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That's a serious achievement, IMO. Hell just finding that tube is a big deal. I can't find even find a 6100 anymore.
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Any updates on this project?
Sorry for resurrecting a 16-month old thread.
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Any updates on this project?
Sorry for resurrecting a 16-month old thread.
There's no room for this anymore with all his pinball machine. He's a pinhead now, people. Deal with it. :cheers:
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Yeah sorry this project is officially dead.
Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk
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Since you aren't going to use it...want to sell that yoke and other parts you have? I wouldn't mind a crack at a restore.
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All gone long ago
Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk