This is what my work is like:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=291111;image)
Compared to yours:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=291113;image)
You might notice some smaller references to the Commodore PET computer.
Awesome ! And I love the steampunk look of these !
No plan for a bartop in that style ?
Really outstanding skills
Hey, quizz_kid, I'm pretty sure I met you last year @ retrospelsmässan in Gothenburg when you were showcasing your K-Raid 44 (if I'm not mistaken) along with that awesome LCD "TV".
Welcome to this forum!
The basic concept of Revelation is a collaboration between me and a crazy German guy named Marcus. Hopefully we will get Chris Huelsbeck, a composer who wrote music for C64 and Amiga(Turrican 1-3 etc.), to make a startup tune for this machine. That would be so nice!
Wow, first of all, you sir have mad skills when it comes to woodworking. I'm pretty sure there's only a dozen or so members near your level. I'm just happy if I can cut a wood plank in two without sawing a finger off. And that's with a hand saw. :laugh:The basic concept of Revelation is a collaboration between me and a crazy German guy named Marcus. Hopefully we will get Chris Huelsbeck, a composer who wrote music for C64 and Amiga(Turrican 1-3 etc.), to make a startup tune for this machine. That would be so nice!
I guess we all have our "special dream" for our projects. Mine would be to get the girl from Blazing Star to record custom voice recordings for my cabinet(s). I guess I can always use "Select your machine" when the game menu shows up, though. ;D
If Da Vinci mated with the Lemarchand's box from Hellraiser and you dressed the bastard child in Steampunk attire, it would be one of your "Kaid" builds (thats a compliment BTW) :cheers: Don't know whats up with you Swedes, but the whole time I am reading the thread I'm sayin to myself "This guy has to be from Sweden!", sure enough... 8)
One word: "WOW!" :o
Someone made a compliment on my woodworking on another forum, I've told him to go and have a look herre to see my skills really aren't that great :applaud:
Simply amazing. Proud to be from Sweden right now :)
Beautiful wood AND metal work, great to see another project using real timbers, I'm envious of your access to high quality tools.
Stellar work! :cheers:
This is incredible! Amazing woodworking skills.
Watching this for the future pictures and craftsmanship :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
WTH this is incredible... very nice choice with the walnut!
I can only echo what others have said, great work!
But... quizz_kid the USB mishap, that will still show right? The reason I say this is because the block you inserted has the grain of the timber running the wrong way to its surrounding timber? Would of been better to have had the insert grain running the same way as the rest. Just a small thing really, but it would niggle me, especially as the rest of the work is done to a high standard. You can tell me to shut up if you like. :lol
I Just set fire to all my work.. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
quizz_kid OK I will go and hide in a corner somewhere. :lol Great work, truly inspiring! What do you use to finish the veneer? Would it be a shellac based polish/varnish? Also do you lightly stain the veneer before finishing to gain uniform and consistency in colour?
I can't wait to see the finish article. ;D
I Just set fire to all my work.. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
I Just set fire to all my work.. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
+1
sub-freaking-scribed!
Reminds me of the woodshop in dad's basement.
AJ
Just now reading this and all I can say is WOW!
Holy jeebus.
Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…
Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…
Bought it pretty cheap here: http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02 (http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02)
My head is exploding trying to take in all the excellence of this build. :notworthy: :notworthy:
Welcome to the forum! I appreciate you sharing this project, it truly is a spectacular piece of work.
As for the rear shade that will go behind the translucent LCD:
Have you thought about using polarized sheeting in creative ways? Here's a link to a vendor: http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/ (http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/)
I'm sure I don't have to explain this type of option to you!
Cheers!
:cheers:
Dude..... Guys like you and Ond just need their own section on the forum. You guys makes what I have look like a cheap breadbox from Wal*Mart.Where did you get the transparent display and what did it cost?
I’m looking for something like that to my PC DJ equipment…
Bought it pretty cheap here: http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02 (http://www.fingersgadget.com/products/samsung-transparent-lcd-display-22-inch-see-through-lti220mt02)
Ahha! I've been hunting those done for a while now, ever since I spotted them on slot machines in a nearby casino. Been driving me nuts trying to find those panels online.
Those keyboard overlays are so damn sexy, man. :cheers: I'd go with leather.
Love the keyboard overlay!
I would gone with the veneer overlay
Skickat från min HTC One X via Tapatalk 2
Helt stört snyggt! ;D
Awesome :applaud:
Holy crap on a cracker, I wish i had an ounce of your woodworking skills
:dizzy: Crazy. :cheers:
Good work - being a wood butcher myself, I recognize clean craft work when I see it. Do you do cabinet work as a career?
:cheers:
Wow...OMG...had me at Commodore too...course my avatar is a clean giveaway.
Woodwork like this keeps me motivated and improving. Fantastic work...drooling at what is to come!!!
Growing up in a woodworking house (and vowing NEVER to take up woodworking), I find the hardest part is not the lack of tools, it's the way talented craftsmen like you are able to put the steps together in some semblance of order to create something like this.
Given access to your toolset, it would still take me years to master the skill of placing steps in the right order, managing materials, and choosing the correct methods to use and where.
Amazing work!
One favor, though. Can you take some pics of your shop? I'd love to see the layout and the toolset you have to work with.
AJ
Love the wooden mouse chassis!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img827/470/xylc.jpg)
Epic Work :) Thanks for the great Pictures as well. I'll be following this thread as much as possible.
You should make wooden arcade buttons and joysticks for your build :)
I want a job at your workshop! I will work for free, I make a good cup of tea and will push a brush if need be.
Geez that is some set up you have and in such beautiful surroundings too.
I'm intrigued as to what else you make? I did take a look at your link for facebook with some projects, but do you have a personal website with other items displayed? What you are doing is mind blowing, it really is. :notworthy:
Then we look like this.......
(http://animatedviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/droopy-02.JPG)
Stop the madness........
Wow!! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
I'm almost lost for words, but GREAT work!! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
:cheers: :cheers:
I see a Best of 2013 winner...
Superb workmanship!
:applaud:
Another awesome update! Good work yet again...I like the eggwhite bezel better than the wooden one...you're right about the need for different materials. Keep up the good work! Also...great Pictures in this thread. 10/10!
I vote for the egg bezel. Very nice work on the JLW shafts, but the cooling system is just too cool! (no pun intended) :cheers:
Simply stunning work. The skill level is off the chart. Never mind having the tools to do all that type of work you still need to be able to use them. You sir are a genius. Love your work.. Defiantly 2013`s Best in show...Its just insanely beautiful :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
:notworthy:...There's...nothing I can say that can express just how amazing this project is. :notworthy: You've impressed the gods on this forum, so the thoughts & opinions of something as lowly as me don't even deserve to b here. :notworthy: I grovel in the dust, my eyes averted. :notworthy: Please keep posting--teach us, oh master! :notworthy:
Man, something is wrong with you....no human being should be that perfect in woodworking.....I'm sure you had something to do with crop circles didn't ya.
See, this is what your doing.....Your building stuff like this, and when we look at your build, it's like looking into the sun....Once the blindness subsides, we go look at our builds and they for some reason look like this......
http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/ (http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/)
Then we look like this.......
(http://animatedviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/droopy-02.JPG)
Stop the madness........
I'm terrified I'm gonna build something that belongs on that list of crap cabs. I did complete a DDR pad that I think should b there. Never again, I hope. I'll post it someday.
Man you are an incredibly talented artist, thanks for sharing the details of your work.
I made this little guy just for fun I guess. It's the pulling knob/handle for the blind. Don't know if I'll use it though, I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?
(http://imageshack.us/a/img442/9514/vh0m.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/442/vh0m.jpg/)
I know what you mean, as seen on the Swedish Äppelknyckarbyxa. These are also worn by Tintin. :laugh2:
The PC build you're doing is a work of art. :notworthy:
I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?
I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?
Sounds like a cord lock (http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Plastic-Toggle-Spring-Single/dp/B008AOUNHS/).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51br8hQPyCL._SY300_.jpg)
Alternate version here (http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Shaped-Sliding-Shoelace-Backpack/dp/B009GXQ26I/).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31QTOwHuqiL.jpg)
There are also the 3-cord locks (http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Austrian-Shades-Holds-Cords/dp/B0049GHWES/) used on adjustable shades and the associated pulleys (http://www.amazon.com/Cord-Pulley-Roman-Austrian-Shades/dp/B004MAZ3LK/), but they seem like overkill for this.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21mUZyY-qtL.jpg) (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Cyg2cEbDL.jpg)
Scott
Just found this thread and WOW!, this is art pure and simple.
Still on vaccation, but have a question. Does anyone know how to reverse the rotation of a 12v RC motor? And could I maybe have a toggle switch to alter the rotation? Thinking about using one of those for the blind/shade.
Still on vaccation, but have a question. Does anyone know how to reverse the rotation of a 12v RC motor? And could I maybe have a toggle switch to alter the rotation? Thinking about using one of those for the blind/shade.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=120278.0;attach=184662;image)
Here's a circuit that will allow you to reverse the polarity/direction of the motor/actuator.
It uses a DPDT (double pole, double throw) momentary-on/off/momentary-on rocker switch that is spring loaded to return to center like this one.
When you press "up" on the rocker switch, it moves both throw arms (blue) to make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed (NC) upper limit switch (green) until the motor pushes the shade up far enough to press the upper limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "up" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.
To lower the shade, press "down" on the rocker switch. The throw arms make contact and applies a + voltage through the normally closed lower limit switch (green) until the actuator pulls the shade down far enough to press the lower limit switch and open the circuit (red) which stops the motor. Holding the rocker switch "down" after this will not cause it to move until the limit switch returns to closed.
You can also run it partially up or down, as desired.
Scott
Typically speed control is based on pulsing the motor rapidly on/off. the motor always needs 12 volts (or whatever) or it won't work at all.
low gearing is more important than overall speed. 131:1 is what I used for a monitor rotation, but if the blind's movement is pretty easy then you may not need so much torque. I wouldn't direct drive it off the shaft of the motor.
Maybe you can use a shaft pulley (?) type assembly where the cord that wraps around the shaft also passes through the shaft to avoid slippage. (Not drawn to scale)
The difference of circumferences yields a proportional reduction in RPM.
The limit switches (blue) are actuated by a block (red) on the cable.
The blind would be in the middle area wrapped around the tan axis.
Scott
This is such a pleasing project, something different from the usual traditional approaches to arcade building. I'm impressed by the combination of materials craftsmanship and creativity going on. Funny eh? I'm always hunting around hoping to see skill and innovation like this and when I do see it I'm still surprised as hell! :applaud: :notworthy:
I don't Think I've got room for an axis going along the entire blind though. But there might be room for a thicker shaft to reduce RPM a bit.Narrowing the center of the tan shaft and using larger diameter pulleys on the ends will further slow the raising/lowering speed of the shade, but makes it harder to ensure that the blind doesn't bind while raising/lowering.
Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.
yeah, buddy.. your brand of cool is on it's way out. >:D
AJWhere did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.
I don't Think I've got room for an axis going along the entire blind though. But there might be room for a thicker shaft to reduce RPM a bit.Narrowing the center of the tan shaft and using larger diameter pulleys on the ends will further slow the raising/lowering speed of the shade, but makes it harder to ensure that the blind doesn't bind while raising/lowering.
I figured you'd tie the sides of the blind slats (yellow) to the drive cord and use several turns of the tan shaft to wrap up the blind on the center part.
Use beads (purple) the same thickness as the slats on the cord that wraps around the outer tan shaft as the blind deploys from the center part.
That way as you reduce by the diameter of the center as the shade goes out, you increase the diameter of the outer part.
It may also need a spring tension pulley to take up the slack, depending on the final design measurements. :dunno
Scott
Where did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.
WOW! ..completely Stunning :notworthy:
unfortunately when I see the level skill and creativity on this forum (and this is up there with OND, Griffindodd, Sjaak and Knievel) it makes me want to park my projects and study carpentry and creative design for a decade or two - then reality kicks in (I still need to pay the mortgage)
Shame none of you live close - I would convince you to sell me this awesomeness (2nd mortgage if necessary) and focus on enjoying the artwork ..of course i'd never let anyone actually touch them!
Now thats what i call execution.......... :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Good grief man that gorgeous.....
The contrast between the wood and black buttons is very nice. Can I ask were the receivers for the wireless controllers are going to be housed.
Lovely work on the joystick! :cheers:
Nice looking pictures too! :applaud:
You should do something about the balltops. The method used to fabricate them has left an ugly line across the "equator" of them that does not fit in with everything else as that's spotless. Perhaps sanding them? Should give a better grip as well. :cheers:
This is friggin awesome quizz.
One thing though, have you ever used those DC plug connectors before (male)? I have and the surrounds break really really easy, they don't last long after even moderate handling. I would suggest you get one of the solid plastic shelled ones and not the perforated ones. Cheers and great job on the design.
:cheers:
You should do something about the balltops. The method used to fabricate them has left an ugly line across the "equator" of them that does not fit in with everything else as that's spotless. Perhaps sanding them? Should give a better grip as well. :cheers:
My God, he solders/wires like a pro, too.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
I admit that I was sad to see the barrage of pictures end. Amazing work!
Hard to find anything in this build to pick at but the PCI extension ribbon cable stands out with its green PCB board. Maybe you could dip it in a non-conductive black paint or something to conform to the rest of the visuals.
Hope you find a cool solution for the Voltage meter (if you plan on using one).
:cheers:
do you screw up, where are the do-overs......
My God, he solders/wires like a pro, too.
The word craftsman is definitely too light a word to use in light of the work this man produces. I'm struggling to find the proper description of this mind-blowing artistry.
do you screw up, where are the do-overs......
Don't worry mate, I still haven't tested the loop for leaks, don't even know if the system will boot and i still have that shade machanism to construct. Everything could go wrong from now on :timebomb:
The water cooling work is beyond words my friend. amazing simply amazing..
ooo And congratulations on the piece in STUFF Magazine. Brill read mate...
:notworthy:Do me a favour though lower the price just for me... :applaud: :applaud:
Thanks guys!!The water cooling work is beyond words my friend. amazing simply amazing..
ooo And congratulations on the piece in STUFF Magazine. Brill read mate...
:notworthy:Do me a favour though lower the price just for me... :applaud: :applaud:
Thanks. Haven't seen the feature yet, still waiting for a copy of the mag. I hope they did a good job in the photo studio...
Btw, what does the pricing says in the feature? I can't remember the price tag :dizzy:
Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet ;D
Thank you for that my friend, that photo looks very good indeed!
Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet ;D
Well, with all those hrs I put into a machine like R-Kaid-42, €790 is very cheap. But I know, and sadly, it's not for the everyday wallet ;D
People are buying it for the form first, and function second. It's pure art, sir.
yeah, buddy.. your brand of cool is on it's way out. >:D+1
AJWhere did this guy come from? I think my head just exploded.
I now how no desire to build anything else, as this is just ridiculous..... :notworthy:
W00T! Doesn't look ergonomic, but who cares!? Are the compartments held shut with magnets? :cheers:
I now how no desire to build anything else, as this is just ridiculous..... :notworthy:
Other than...Any chance of a discount on one???? :cheers: :cheers:
Yes just say thank you!!!!!! :applaud:
I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer. When I turned around, I saw this:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg.html)
Looks like someone's a little jealous.
Revelation is a work of art.
AJ
Haven't laughed so hard in a while.. :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer. When I turned around, I saw this:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg.html)
Looks like someone's a little jealous.
Revelation is a work of art.
AJ
This forum thread the best proof that Swedes are just incapable of doing something and ---smurfing--- things up in the process. :notworthy:
This forum thread the best proof that Swedes are just incapable of doing something and ---smurfing--- things up in the process. :notworthy:
Uh, lets not go too far - don't forget that SAAB 9-5 with the automatic gear selector that couldn't back up on a hill.
Quizzkid would never have had anything to do with that - he is operating way above that level!
I accidentally opened this update on my garage computer. When I turned around, I saw this:
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/mcseforsale/media/WeeCade/wee_sad_zps07d3a4a9.jpg.html)
Looks like someone's a little jealous.
AJ
Hey quizz_kid, are you sure you are not selling this thing at a loss? I mean, you put two 256 SSDs in that thing, and the rest of the parts are not cheap either. ???
Also, I've been trying to quiet that damn noisy DC-LT pump. With fan controller, reducing the voltage to about 40%, it's better, but not good enough. Small O-rings between nuts and mounting also helps a bit, but still not quiet. :sigh:
This is the only part of the build that I'm "meh" about so far. The styling is quite nice but the screen shot is incongrous with the rest of the build, as does the list. Perhaps only showing one game name at a time in the bottom the screen similar to a caption from a silent movie, then centering the screen shot and doing a treatement to sepia making it look like old film stock would add to the character.
Also, I've been trying to quiet that damn noisy DC-LT pump. With fan controller, reducing the voltage to about 40%, it's better, but not good enough. Small O-rings between nuts and mounting also helps a bit, but still not quiet. :sigh:
So, why not go the opposite direction and make the sound an integral part of the build? Like, add some type of bubbling sound, or something that might make the sound part of the personality of the system... Just thinking out loud here.
You sure that's "black" and not "black-light" or UV?
AJ
now you'll just have to get some UV light in there that turns on when you open the case.
And, you should be able to add UV along with whatever color you choose, such as white. Just dim that color a little and let the UV stuff shine in the tube. I think it would be a cool effect. Especially with the polished brass fittings that are left!
AJ
Btw, for the shade scheme, I'm I thinking right with the dpdt rocker here?
And does it have to be momentary, couldn't I just use a toggle one?
looks damn sexy.
I have no idea what you're doing, but it looks damn sexy.
I didn't realize BYOAC was a competition. >:D
Nice focus "pot". :cheers: Doesn't hand/knob obscure the picture of the lens while adjusting though?
Makalöst. :notworthy:
Makalöst. :notworthy:
överenskommen!
Y'all talk funny. A'int this a 'Merican forum? (in my best deep south twang)
Excellent work! Oh, and that workshop is amazing. Even the view of the area its in is the business.
AJ
I can check tomorrow, but could that really be the issue?
Make sure you aren't somehow shorting the power button circuit. If you are, it will do exactly what you describe.
The magnificent machine! I imagine archeologists uncovering this in a dig a thousand years from now interpreting its purpose.....
Regarding the UV liquid issue. First there are some variations when it comes to wave lengths. There are different type of UV LED's, and depending of type there are big differences in efficiency.
Maybe looting one of these can be a better alternative?
http://www.conrad.se/?websale8=conrad-swe&pi=751778&refKey=lEXlFRykX (http://www.conrad.se/?websale8=conrad-swe&pi=751778&refKey=lEXlFRykX)
When it comes to fluid, you can try to put some UV reactive bubble machine fluid, like this one:
http://www.thomann.de/se/eurolite_uv_seifenblasenfluid_1_lt.htm (http://www.thomann.de/se/eurolite_uv_seifenblasenfluid_1_lt.htm)