Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: mebronx2000 on June 04, 2013, 11:55:39 am
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what is the best glue for gluing mdf ! :applaud:
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I've always had good luck using normal woodglue (Tightbond is a good example). Just be sure you clamp (or screw) it together while the glue sets
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I've always had good luck using normal woodglue (Tightbond is a good example). Just be sure you clamp (or screw) it together while the glue sets
thanks :notworthy:
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I've always used woodworker's standard yellow. I also usually clamp it down use short brad nails to pin it, and then steal my clamps back because I only have 4 good ones.
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Most wood glues work fine. I've used Elmers/Titlebond/Generic HD/Lowes and they all work just fine. The biggest thing is to make sure the surface is clean and to understand the weight/load on what you're gluing. If you're gluing a corner make sure to use firring strips. If you're gluing a load bearing joint make sure you back it up with either biscuits or dowlings or screws/nails.
So bottom line is you should be fine with most wood glues but make damn sure you know the load so you can build it accordingly.
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Pretty much any of "todays" wood glues will have the wood fail before the glue. I recommend using a tack cloth to clean the stuff you're going to glue first though.
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thanks everyone for all your guys help ! :cheers: :notworthy: :applaud:
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For anyone in the UK, Gripfill makes a bond that is inseparable. The MDF is likely to de-laminate before the bond breaks.
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For anyone in the UK, Gripfill makes a bond that is inseparable. The MDF is likely to de-laminate before the bond breaks.
Same with Gorilla - always delaminates first. Gorilla also expands like crazy so clamp tightly. It's my go to product.
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Since the directions for Gorilla Glue call for using a little water to activate it, wouldn't it cause problems with the MDF or is the exposure time so short and the amount of water used so small that it is used up by the glue?
Scott
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It hasn't been an issue for me. Most of the time I use Gorilla wood glue, it's a water based PVA, with minimal expansion. When I need a really stupid strong bond (like on some of the R2 leg pieces) I use Gorilla regular.
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Since the directions for Gorilla Glue call for using a little water to activate it, wouldn't it cause problems with the MDF or is the exposure time so short and the amount of water used so small that it is used up by the glue?
Scott
They more call for the area to be damp. MDF can get damp, same with Plywood. What you don't want is either getting soaked and then drying out in a dry area. So you get the area damp, with a rag that is semi-wet. This allows the chemical bonding to occur deeper than if it was just dry.
So no, you shouldn't see an issue with it.