Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: barfybuffet on November 11, 2003, 02:42:14 pm
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I was going to go with 5/8" MDF but I can only get 1/2" and 3/4" locally.
I am mimicing Scott's Unicade style cabinet. My plan is to make the sides, bottom, and top of the control panel out of 3/4" MDF, these will be screwed into a 2x4 frame. the rest of the panels along the front and back will be made out of 1/2", mainly to make the cabinet lighter (and cost less). Will 1/2" be strong enough? My main concern is I want to mount a Happs over/under coin door on the front panel.. will 1/2" be able to support this?
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Strength should be no problem, the 2x4 framing is porbably overkill so you can use 1/2 MDF. My cab, although smaller, is made of 1/2 with a few 1x1 reinforcements and it's quite sturdy.
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I'd say 2x4 is overkill, rip them in half and go 2x2 or like papa said 1x1's would work. My local home depot actually sells 2x4's cheaper than 2x2's, go figure.
1/2" should be fine in a home environment and its going to be much lighter to move around. The coin door isn't that heavy and as long as no one trys to bust into it 1/2" will be fine.
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My main concern is I want to mount a Happs over/under coin door on the front panel.. will 1/2" be able to support this?
You should use 3/4" wood for coin door.I used 5/8" and I thought things would be fine but NO ! >:(
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pd47afca6a1f9b9b00b96a16457498d15/fbcd4d5a.jpg
Look carefully,I had to use some wood piece to make things work.
(looks great from the outside and all)
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My main concern is I want to mount a Happs over/under coin door on the front panel.. will 1/2" be able to support this?
You should use 3/4" wood for coin door.I used 5/8" and I thought things would be fine but NO ! >:(
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pd47afca6a1f9b9b00b96a16457498d15/fbcd4d5a.jpg
Look carefully,I had to use some wood piece to make things work.
(looks great from the outside and all)
Snaaack you need some wire tires to clean up that cable mess!
He is indeed right, most coin doors will be sized for 3/4" and you'll likely have to shim it in place. Though you might get lucky with yours and have it fit.
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Why would you make the sides and bottom of the control panel out of 1/2" and make the top out of 3/4" ?
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Why would you make the sides and bottom of the control panel out of 1/2" and make the top out of 3/4" ?
should be the other way around and use 1/4" plexi glass so 3/4" t-molding would be perfect.
OR use 5/8"+1/8" plexi and 3/4" t-molding for the top and 3/4" sides(thats what I have).
you need some wire tires to clean up that cable mess!
Meh...I got REALLY exicited about the cab.Couldnt wait to play.Now I added 3 shelves in there for all the consoles and the computer.
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hehe ... mine is build like a brick sh*t house according to you guys ;D
3/4" plywood with lots and lots of 2x4 bracing :o (ok ... only 10 .... counting the 2 for the monitor mounts and the bottom panel for the casters to bolt into ... do those count ... lol)
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hehe ... mine is build like a brick sh*t house according to you guys ;D
3/4" plywood with lots and lots of 2x4 bracing :o (ok ... only 10 .... counting the 2 for the monitor mounts and the bottom panel for the casters to bolt into ... do those count ... lol)
Did you ran a steel beam under the monitor, just for extra support.
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My main concern is I want to mount a Happs over/under coin door on the front panel.. will 1/2" be able to support this?
You should use 3/4" wood for coin door.I used 5/8" and I thought things would be fine but NO ! >:(
I used 5/8" MDF w/ my Happ over/under coindoor and it worked fine.
http://webpages.charter.net/rbecker5/images/insideJunk.jpg (http://webpages.charter.net/rbecker5/images/insideJunk.jpg)
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you need some wire tires to clean up that cable mess!
Meh...I got REALLY exicited about the cab.Couldnt wait to play.Now I added 3 shelves in there for all the consoles and the computer.
Yet another cabinet that got sidetracked by play testing.... ;)
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Unless you are building a interior frame out of 2x2's (or 2x4's), use 3/4" MDF for the two biggest side panels. It then is safe to use 1/2" MDF for cross pieces (since they dont span as great of an area.. 18 to 24" instead of 28 to 32"
I've built a mini out of 3/4" real oak laminated MDF for the sides then used 1x1's stapled in the corners to support cross pieces of 1/2" MDF. I also routered out channels to put the cross pieces in. It is so solid that i believe it could support a full size cabinet sitting on top of it safely. Not a single 'creak' when moving it around, unlike the 'professional' built original cabinets.
Oh yeah, I also sealed all the seams with polyurathane plywood caulk glue (not the same as Gorilla glue, as this doesn't need water to activate)