Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: soslo on November 10, 2003, 10:50:45 pm
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You know, like Gorilla Glue or the elmers glue with a giant minotaur on the front.
That stuff has some holding power that is unreal. It takes a while (30 mins or so) to set up, but when it does, look out!
Also, it foams up. Less that Great Stuff
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Yes, but does it taste good?
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Yes, but does it taste good?
No, but it is less filling.
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"He said Guerilla not Gorilla! Go! Gur! Huge difference! Huge difference!"
They make that stuff out of Gorillas? I never knew Gorilla foamed up like that...
Okay, in all seriousness, I don't agree with using Ployurethane glue. It causes more headaches because it foams up and it is harder to work with. If you don't get it off your hands, as you said, you'll be carrying it around for at least a day.
Ployurethane glue is great for projects that will be exposed to moisture. Our cabs are hardly going to be subjected to moisture (or else we wouldn't use particle board and mdf... lol).
I know you were just trying to make a bunch of "the bomb" threads, but this isn't a very good suggestion to people that have never used this type of glue. I personally think you are better off with wood glue for your wood to wood joints.
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yup ... definitely good stuff
I just used good ol' Titebond yellow glue with my control panel ... everything else was clear zinc-plated screws from Woodcraft ... no need to use glue when your using those babies :)
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You know you have 4 topics on the front page that say "X is the bomb!"
- Party Pooper
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are you serious!?!
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if you paint elmers white glue on your hand real thin, let it dry, then roll it up, it's fun..
Rubber cement is the same but it looks gross.
it's the bomb. ::)
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if you paint elmers white glue on your hand real thin, let it dry, then roll it up, it's fun..
Rubber cement is the same but it looks gross.
it's the bomb. ::)
I wonder if that works with Polyurethane glue, let us know...
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I don't see anything wrong with the polyurethane. You just have to be smart about keeping it away from exposed edges. Like someone said, the cleanup is easy, just let it dry and scrape the excess away with a putty knife.
It gave me a rock-solid join on my melamine. I actually had to remove a section of 1x1 at some point, and although I removed all the screws, I still had to pound a putty knife into the joint to wrench it free! Strong stuff. That cab's not coming apart unless it gets hit by a truck.
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It gave me a rock-solid join on my melamine. I actually had to remove a section of 1x1 at some point, and although I removed all the screws, I still had to pound a putty knife into the joint to wrench it free! Strong stuff. That cab's not coming apart unless it gets hit by a truck.
I agree it gives you a rock solid join, but it may not be the right tool for the job. It is more expensive and doesn't clean up with water.
I do conceed that it could help out if you have some loose joints because it will foam and fill in the void. I also agree that it will give you a solid joint. It just seems like overkill to me.
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Polyurethane is one of the strongest glue types there is for wood working. It is the moisture in the wood that makes it harden. The moisture in your skin is what causes it to cure on your hands. When it cures it tends to lock into the pores in the wood (or your hands), that is part of makes it such a strong glue.
It is reaslly not that good for non-porous surfaces. I would not have used it for the t-moulding.
Wear gloves while using it. You can clean up un-cured glue with denatured alcohol.
As I-Up says, you need to learn how much to use to minimize the foaming out of the joins.
WeinerDog, Polyurethane glues are really not good for joints with gaps. It will fill the gap with foamed polyurethane, but the foamed glue is substantially weaker than the glue in a tight joint.