Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: rablack97 on April 16, 2013, 12:59:59 am
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Figured I'd try my hand at laminating, here are some pics of my current build, no real theme yet (ELAMINATOR) just sounded cool.....
Just laminated the whole thing, just to see if i could do it.....
It will be KADE (http://kadevice.com/forum/index.php) driven.....COINOPS/VISION Frontend..
(http://i.imgur.com/GNRMd11.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/VjaM0E4.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IHGEwi7.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/II7R4QL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/lsl5E8i.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/rEWCpRS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UfmY7UB.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/IJ0B6Lb.jpg)
Need some opinions on the buttons color scheme, which one?......
(http://i.imgur.com/LF7yco0.jpg)
T-molding will be red or black not sure yet.....
Also, might switch out the white t-ball with this....
(http://i.imgur.com/dEZCCnw.jpg)
:cheers:
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Nice job :applaud: I would go with red-red or the black outer with red button.
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If i go clear, the outer circles would be lit up red and the t-ball lit it red as well.
Not sure if i should go, lit or unlit buttons.....
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The lamination work is really solid!
:cheers:
I personally don't like brightly illuminated buttons on a bartop because they are too close to the screen. If you can light them up in a subtle way, it might be cool. Otherwise, I'd go with non lighted.
subscribed!
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The lamination work is really solid!
:cheers:
I personally don't like brightly illuminated buttons on a bartop because they are too close to the screen. If you can light them up in a subtle way, it might be cool. Otherwise, I'd go with non lighted.
subscribed!
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For button lighting that won't sunburn your retinas, use 12v LEDs powered by 5v. ;D
Scott
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Only the outer rings would be lit up and I have a design for the clear trackball so that not blinding either.
Its not blinding at all, very subtle, red has a 2.2 forward voltage so it's not as bright as green and blue anyway....
I'll have to wire a few up and see how it looks.....
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For button lighting that won't sunburn your retinas, use 12v LEDs powered by 5v. ;D
Scott
Those are still bright as ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
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I like the contrast of the red outer ring with the black plunger.. If you do go for the lighted buttons use the outer ring of the milky white IL buttons at paradise arcadeshop.
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OK, what are you really going to call it? >:D
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For button lighting that won't sunburn your retinas, use 12v LEDs powered by 5v. ;D
Scott
Those are still bright as ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
Then it's time to add another resistor between the 5v supply and 5v daisy chain or between the ground daisy chain and ground. (Not to be confused with the current limiting resistor built into the LED holders.)
For an example, see R2 in the lighting circuit here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119562.msg1270434.html#msg1270434).
Scott
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For button lighting that won't sunburn your retinas, use 12v LEDs powered by 5v. ;D
Scott
Those are still bright as ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
Then it's time to add a diffuser or other means to block/deflect the light from your eyes.
Scott
Agree 100% ;D
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For button lighting that won't sunburn your retinas, use 12v LEDs powered by 5v. ;D
Scott
Those are still bright as ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
Then it's time to add another resistor between the 5v supply and 5v daisy chain or between the ground daisy chain and ground. (Not to be confused with the current limiting resistor built into the LED holders.)
For an example, see R2 in the lighting circuit here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119562.msg1270434.html#msg1270434).
Scott
Scott- what's the value/size of that R2? 11 ohm, 1/2 watt?
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The circuit uses a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt, 5% tolerance -- Radio Shack P/N 271-1301.
The extra ohm comes from the male .25" QDs on the resistor to connect to the 5v supply and the 5v daisy chain.
A 1/2 watt resistor would work just fine, but the 1/4 watt has worked on mine for over a year.
Scott
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The circuit uses a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt, 5% tolerance -- Radio Shack P/N 271-1301.
The extra ohm comes from the male .25" QDs on the resistor to connect to the 5v supply and the 5v daisy chain.
Scott
Thx.
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Ordered the t-molding, and because i try to be a perfectionist, i bought some of the elusive 11/16" red and blue.
Check out this thread if you want to buy some from me, no minimum, and flat rate shipping.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131791.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,131791.0.html)
:cheers:
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Sweet build. Here's a few pics of my recent cab.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH1_zps1cdfc70e.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH3_zpsf135b251.jpg)
Turn about is fair play yo >:D
:laugh2:
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Nicely done sir, once you do you're first sheet there's no turning back, I love working with laminate, takes the project finish to a new level.
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Sweet build. Here's a few pics of my recent cab.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH1_zps1cdfc70e.jpg) (http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Fieldhouse/FH3_zpsf135b251.jpg)
Turn about is fair play yo >:D
:laugh2:
i don't mind if you post pics in my thread :dunno
I was just illustrating a flush mounted trackball yo.... :)
That rig is nice though and you turned that around very quickly...... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
:cheers:
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Small update.....
(http://i.imgur.com/66VGZlM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7jA2Ibi.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/9tvS8Iq.jpg)
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*Fixed that for ya*
(http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag134/CoryDee/9tvS8Iq_zpsf2a87303.jpg)
Looks good :)