The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Buy/Sell/Trade - non-retail => Topic started by: rablack97 on April 12, 2013, 07:49:13 pm
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Hello Folks,
For those interested I have 8 v1. boards i'm selling for $10.00 a piece.
Reason being is I accidentally left of the labeling for the buttons and I'm going with a simpler wiring scheme for V2.
These are guaranteed to work, and i dont want to waste parts. These are available until none are left.
PM if interested....
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(http://i.imgur.com/2zGLEFg.jpg?3)
(http://i.imgur.com/RCfY7Ce.jpg?2)
(http://i.imgur.com/gfAUDAA.jpg?2)
(http://i.imgur.com/IkvixgK.jpg?3)
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*raises hand*
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Bland post....it'll get better when I post photos....led interface boards are pretty sweet
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:droid Obviously I'm interested
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Im always looking for new rbg led stuff!
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Cast a clear 2 1/4" trackball housing (at least top half), and I'm interested.
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Lol..not my area of expertise...
Wouldn't the mounting plate cover it up though...
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Don't need a mounting plate.
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Cast a clear 2 1/4" trackball housing (at least top half), and I'm interested.
Just to be clear, are you talking about a clear top for one of these Paradise/Sparkfun units?
(http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/47-136-large/ps2-led-trackball.jpg)
Degenatrons came up with an interesting mount variation here (http://kadevice.tk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=398) that might help.
[/thread derail]
Scott
EDIT: Updated KADE forum URL.
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No guys...not a clear case....a clear trackball mainly for the happs versions...I'm not too fond of those types...they are getting harder to source as well...
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Cast a clear 2 1/4" trackball housing (at least top half), and I'm interested.
Just to be clear, are you talking about a clear top for one of these Paradise/Sparkfun units?
(http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/47-136-large/ps2-led-trackball.jpg)
Degenatrons came up with an interesting mount variation here (http://kadevice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=398) that might help.
[/thread derail]
Scott
Nope. I'm talking about a clear housing for a Happ 2 1/4" trackball. Like so...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/192/464344975_5c2a87a320.jpg)
And I don't see how installing without the top half of the housing is anything like having a clear top half of the housing... :P
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The similarity is no black plastic to block your view of the TB guts if you have a clear CP or not blocking the RGB light from backlighting a plexi/polycarb/LDPE control panel with a translucent CPO like a marquee. :dunno
Instead of just animating your RGB button lighting, you could animate your control panel backlighting. :lol
If you want a lighted ring around the ball, couldn't you cut off part of the TB top cover and build something similar to your joystick lighting NephRings (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1280213.html#msg1280213)TM from the Beast?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185764)
Not sure what else a clear upper cover would be used for.
[/thread derail . . . again] ;D
Scott
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You're on the right track, just not to the station yet. NephRings is the right direction. ;)
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so you just want a ring around your trackball right...
after mounting and how much space is left between the mount holes and the actual ball, thats about all you would have left
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OK, guess you want more design details. :dunno
Easier (?) way: Cast a copy of the cover in clear acrylic -- acrylic casting kits are available online. Depending on the cover's structure, this could be impossible.
Harder (?) way: Start with a thick piece of plexi/polycarb.
Use a circle-cutting jig, flat bit and router to remove concentric rings of plexi from the outer perimeter of the NephRing to form the lip that sticks up through the CP.
Cut the TB hole.
Make 3 supports in the TB case for the NephRing that don't interfere with the rollers, encoder wheels, etc.
Cut the TB lid so the 3 supports are exposed.
Cut the NephRing to match the hole in the TB lid and align with the TB.
Add LEDs.
TB-mounting carriage bolts hold the TB body to the CP, keeping the NephRing in position between the CP and the supports/TB case.
Scott
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so your just replacing the lip with a clear lip, the lip is what will be lit....
sounds like a CNC job.....to make the lip....maybe need to inquire with SELFIE...he's the acrylic king...
nice concept though...
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Having Shapeways print one out would be (rough estimate) about $135. :(
Still not to the station yet, Scott.
The ring is already a part of the housing. See part 95-0665-00.
(http://na.suzohapp.com/images/50/565500xx_explodednew.gif)
If it was already translucent, there would be no need to manufacture a ring.
And here you can see that when mounted to a metal control panel, the ring is visible from the top, as it sits flush with the top of tha panel.
(http://na.suzohapp.com/images/50/565500xx_mount.gif)
Sorry all this landed in your FS thread, rablack.
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Rodney: You have to replace the lip and enough of the lid to 1.) light the lip and 2.) rest on the supports so the lip doesn't get pushed down into the case and bind on the ball. :angry:
No need to CNC if you use one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009K77A/).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51XP4STEX3L._SX300_.jpg)
Neph: You tease. >:D
Are you looking for different features, a different process, or a clearer explaination of the process?
Not sure what tracks/station you're hinting at. :dunno
Scott
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Neph: You tease. >:D
Are you looking for different features, a different process, or a clearer explaination of the process?
Not sure what tracks/station you're hinting at. :dunno
Scott
Tracks/station is a train metaphor. I'm not teasing, it's all laid out there, NephRing around a trackball. Might have found a $15 solution. Won't get the chance to do this until late this year or early next year. You'll see it in the Beast's thread if/when it happens.
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Rodney: You have to replace the lip and enough of the lid to 1.) light the lip and 2.) rest on the supports so the lip doesn't get pushed down into the case and bind on the ball. :angry:
No need to CNC if you use one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009K77A/).
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51XP4STEX3L._SX300_.jpg)
Scott,
Ok, mr. perfection you take that jig and hand cut perfect depth circles with a router. Perfectly bind/attach that piece to the housing. You could send off the specs and get the thing laser cut, for what it what would cost for you to destroy a perfectly good 1/2" piece of acyrlic....
Neph,
I totally get what you want, that's an expensive top piece though, if you could get that done, that would be pretty cool.
So, somebody was actually willing to cast that top for you in clear acrylic....
No worries about the hijack, it's all about learning man...
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Neph,
I totally get what you want, that's an expensive top piece though, if you could get that done, that would be pretty cool.
So, somebody was actually willing to cast that top for you in clear acrylic....
No worries about the hijack, it's all about learning man...
Shapeways.com. Upload your 3D model, and they'll 3D print it. I was looking at their "Frosted Ultra Detail" plastic. They charge by the cubic cm. So to drop the cost, I figured I might be able to just have them print the very top of the housing, the raised square in the center that includes the mounting holes. Then I could shave off that portion of an original housing with a table saw, and glue the clear piece on and light from either inside the housing, or from the edges.
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So something like this effect in the end result right...
(http://i.imgur.com/CNyC0Ln.png)
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Neph,
I totally get what you want, that's an expensive top piece though, if you could get that done, that would be pretty cool.
So, somebody was actually willing to cast that top for you in clear acrylic....
No worries about the hijack, it's all about learning man...
Shapeways.com. Upload your 3D model, and they'll 3D print it. I was looking at their "Frosted Ultra Detail" plastic. They charge by the cubic cm. So to drop the cost, I figured I might be able to just have them print the very top of the housing, the raised square in the center that includes the mounting holes. Then I could shave off that portion of an original housing with a table saw, and glue the clear piece on and light from either inside the housing, or from the edges.
Do it....I wanna see..... :)
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My only concern is if the 3-D printed section overlaps/replaces any upper supports/guides for the rollers, it may cause binding or allow wobbling during vigorous use.
Scott
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My only concern is if the 3-D printed section overlaps/replaces any upper supports/guides for the rollers, it may cause binding or allow wobbling during vigorous use.
Scott
So it would be better to just get the whole mold done, just for longevity's sake.....that's one expensive ring....
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I'm just saying that depending on what is on the underside of the section that is replaced by 3-D printing, there may be some issues with how well the rollers fit.
Having never handled one of these 2.25" TBs, I mentioned the possibility of binding/wobbling based on the exploded view posted above and incidents where somewhat overtightened TB mounting hardware caused the case to slightly distort and pinch a roller.
Scott
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bump since the initial focus was derailed
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Yeah, and where are the pichures!?
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Ha, call China and tell them to put the stuff on a speed boat....I'm in hold/waiting pattern till the the boat gets across the water.
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:hissy:
I want to see some pics!!!
Seriously though, I am interested in one of these, if you can show me what they look like all the better! :cheers:
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LOL, sorry man, i'm at the mercy of the China boats...
The boards are on the way.....I will post as soon i get my boards man... :)
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PICS ON 1st POST
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Looooking gooood! (in my George Lopez voice)
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Looooking gooood! (in my George Lopez voice)
You mean Freddie Prinze.
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Looooking gooood! (in my George Lopez voice)
You mean Freddie Prinze.
I forgot what forum I was on. We are all old enough to remember Freddie . I was just referring to George imitating Freddie.
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Looooking gooood! (in my George Lopez voice)
You mean Freddie Prinze.
I forgot what forum I was on. We are all old enough to remember Freddie . I was just referring to George imitating Freddie.
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:cheers:
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Sale bump
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You think these would work for a Tempest spinner?
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I dont see why not, there is an X an Y axis. The harness is for a happs t-ball, but you could get creative and wire into the x-axis, +v and gnd. It's the same premise as the t-ball.. Encoder , encoder wheel etc..
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PM SENT!
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Rablack97 you still have them in stock?
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Hey, do you know if these work with the green PCBs?
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They should I have a green board t ball I can test...
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Cool, test and let me know. I might be down down for a pair then.
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Let you know next week have some parts on order...sure it will though...green board had encoder issues that caused backspin....wouldn't of had anything to do with the interface....happs t balls are pretty compatible with all mouse hacks the boards are just a clean mouse hack
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Check out my review on this unit
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132438.msg1360593.html#msg1360593 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132438.msg1360593.html#msg1360593) :afro:
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Let you know next week have some parts on order...sure it will though...green board had encoder issues that caused backspin....wouldn't of had anything to do with the interface....happs t balls are pretty compatible with all mouse hacks the boards are just a clean mouse hack
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You had a chance to test this out yet, bro?
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Sorry, yeah they work with green boards.....