Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: regulardaddy on March 22, 2013, 12:37:41 am
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Hi all! Here's the story of this monitor:
I went to an auction (not an arcade auction, just a regular one) and they had WWF Wrestlefest! It worked fine, I played it for a while before the auction. However, it was around the 350th auction item, so it took forever to get to it. About ten items before it was up for auction, one of the auction workers went behind the machine to go outside and when he opened up the bay door the screen shut off. I don't know if he bumped it or what. The good news is that I got it for cheaper. The bad news is I can't get it back on. The game starts up and you can hear it, but the screen is completely dead.
It's a WG K7000 chassis (19k7901), the fuses are good, and there's no neck glow. I've been reading this other thread that deals with what sounds like the exact same problem (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=76968.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=76968.0)). I've never done this kind of thing, so my first question is: should I just do what the guy in the thread did and replace the flyback, caps, HOT, and voltage regulator (STR30123, STR30130, STR3123, or STR3130, I haven't found out which exact model it is). The voltage regulator is IC4, right? I can't figure out how to take it out of its bracket to read which exact part it is. I looked at the manual and the flowchart says if there's no picture and the CRT filament isn't lit check the filament circuit, but I can't see on the schematic where that is.
I've removed the chassis from the cabinet, here are some pictures:
(http://i48.tinypic.com/wldsso.jpg) (http://i48.tinypic.com/wldsso.jpg) (http://i46.tinypic.com/n4uzqu.jpg)(http://i47.tinypic.com/9pntlg.jpg)
When I start it up there's a crackling sound on the back of the CRT. The flyback doesn't seem to be cracked as far as I can tell, although the 'front' seems a little loose (the side with the knobs on it).
1 more thing: I'm from Canada, British Columbia. I live close to Vancouver. If I order parts from Bob Roberts will he ship up here?
I know I've asked a bunch of questions and mentioned many things, sorry about that! I need help tho, I've read lots, but now I'm stuck!
Thanks!
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Well there are good chances that replacing the flyback, HOT, caps and voltage regulator will get it working but you may be wasting alot of time and money by shotgunning a repair like this.
yes the voltage regulator is ic4.
I'm not saying you shouldn't replace those parts but the issue to first deal with may simply be cold solder joints. sometimes you can prove this by bumping the machine in different spots while running to see if the monitor comes alive.
also take a meter and measure for dc volts with black lead on monitors metal frame and red lead on lead for large white resistor and see what you have.
a good reading is something like 123vdc but you will most likely see 160vdc which may indicate horizontal failure which will be caused by the above parts or bad solder joints.
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Thanks, I will try bumping it and checking the dc volts on the large white resistor after work today! If bumping it gets it going again, how do I repair cold solder joints? Do I have to desolder and re-solder all the connections?
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For fixing cold solder joints, you just typically have to hit them again with the iron and solder.
If you see something that really looks crappy, you may wanna use a sucker or wick and redo it.
Just basically hit all the solder joints that you can especially the ones at the Flyback and voltage regulator.
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hello i have that same chasis
i was wondering
u see that that flyback has two red wires coming out to the tube
i see most cap and flyback kits for the wg k700 series comes with
one red cable only... does it make a difference or its just the way
that flyback was made??
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You have a Zenith made Wells-Gardner K7000A. I can tell by your picture it has never had a capkit. All the caps are originals. The standard K7000 capkit fits this model. John Robertson at John's Jukes in Vancouver, Canada (www.flippers.com (http://www.flippers.com)) should sell the capkit in his parts department. Be sure to stop in at his business.
BTW, why is the fuse laying on your circuit board in that one picture? It shouldn't be there!
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I hooked the chassis backed up and tried bumping it in different places, but the picture didn't come back. I measured the dc voltage of the large white resistor and it was 160v. Does this mean I need a new HOT?
Thanks for the info Ken, I'll get a new capkit there! Does he sell HOTs too? Is that all I need, a capkit and a HOT (if I do need a new HOT)?
Oh yeah, I didn't notice that fuse was out until I pulled the chassis out. I was hoping replacing it would fix everything, but the only thing that changed was that the back of the monitor crackled upon startup and before nothing would happen.
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if u follow the 2 red wire's colsely
u will note olny 1 comes from the hot
then goes to the anode,from there it is brought back down to a foucs/screen block,
the grey block u see in your pic.
ed
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If it were me, I would first just try going through and resoldering everything first just because its free and only takes a little bit to do and then if it still doesn't work, then replace the parts.
Definitely a cap kit and probably the HOT & Flyback.
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is the isolation transformer connected in the picture it looks like the wires were cut or something ...
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It looks like his ISO wires go down through the plywood and then up
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Okay, so that took forever! I phoned John's Jukes waaay back on Mar 25 asking about a capkit and got a message saying they had one for $20. Then when I phoned to confirm the next day they said they were putting it together and didn't have it yet, but they would phone and let me know. No phone call the whole rest of the week. I phoned back this week asking about it and was told it was done. Because of work I couldn't go in, so my wife went in for me today and was told the flyback is shorted and the capkit won't do anything, so she didn't buy it. :banghead:
So what should I do now? The guy at John's Jukes (John) says they don't sell flybacks, but he can sell me a whole chassis for $125-150. Should I order a capkit and flyback from Bob Roberts? I feel frustrated, it took a long time to get nowhere :p
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It seems like $20 for a cap kit is way high.
I would go the bob Roberts route.
You can never go wrong with Bob
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If the Flyback needs to be replaced, make sure and do the HOT too
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About ten items before it was up for auction, one of the auction workers went behind the machine to go outside and when he opened up the bay door the screen shut off. I don't know if he bumped it or what.
Dunno if you place the door back.
When the Machine is on and when the back door is open, it will turn off. There is a switch there. If you are working on the machine and need the system to be on, you need to PULL that switch.
When the door is closed, it pushes that switch to let power thru.
Just statng my .02 cents just in case it's the problem to begin with.
That's switch is called "Interlock Switch". Google it to see what it looks like.
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Game interlock switches are typically on the main power so if the back door were open he'd have no nothing.
I believe he said this is playing blind
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Game interlock switches are typically on the main power so if the back door were open he'd have no nothing.
I believe he said this is playing blind
agreed, but there appears to be an interlock switch in the bottom picture.
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Oh yeah.
I didn't see that it was right under the iso transformer like that.
And with the way the wiring goes through the bottom like that, I guess there could be a separate monitor kill switch
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Wow, it's taking me forever to do this... Anyway, after buying two different soldering irons and finally learning how to solder, I installed the capkit. Then I went to install the flyback. However, it looks like it's going to go in backwards due to the placement of the pins, with the knobs facing the monitor. This is what I ordered from bobroberts.net: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/k7000.gif (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/k7000.gif) Did I order the wrong flyback?
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i dont think there is a replacement for your flyback...
just return it... i have the same problem, we have a zenith k700 chassis
so you can only replace the caps in this chasis...
if your flyback goes bad you have to change your chasis >>> :hissy:
i know it sucks thats is why am looking for a wgk700 in case my chasis flyback goes bad...
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Aw crud...well, if it must be, it must be. I just want it to work so I can play for a few minutes and then tire of it ::) I almost think it's more fun figuring this stuff out and trying to fix it. Where's a good place to buy a chassis? I couldn't see any on Bob Robert's site. The only place I saw them was on the arcade buffet website: http://www.thearcadebuffett.com/sale.html (http://www.thearcadebuffett.com/sale.html)
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I don't believe Bob carries them.
check here: http://www.arcadecup.com/ (http://www.arcadecup.com/)
Chad is great and he may be able to repair the one you got
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you are welcome to send the chassis in for repair or trade it in for credit on a fully rebuilt chassis.
the fly is no longer available for that model chassis but the rest of the parts are.
you can contact me thru my website.
thearcadebuffett.com
Peace
Buffett
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Actually Buffett, I did buy a new one from you! (this is Jeff B) I installed it and it works great, I'd recommend www.thearcadebuffett.com (http://www.thearcadebuffett.com) to anyone looking for a refurbished chassis! Now that my monitor is working well I found out that I may have control issues. I'll probably be posting questions about that soon in another part of the forum unless it works when I re-plug in the connectors. It's never easy...
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cool thanks for the kind words.
hit me up if you need any more help.
good luck on the project.
Peace
Buffett