Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: James76 on March 12, 2013, 05:05:05 pm
-
Hello to everybody, I started building my Bartop arcade cabinet two weeks ago and would just like to get some opinions.
I've never done anything like this before but have always wanted to own a machine so i thought what the hell.
I know its not perfect but i'm taking my time and doing the best i can till i'm satisfied.
These forums have been very helpful and given me lots of inspiration and information. So thanks to you all.
(http://i.minus.com/ibuK13d6ZrcTBd.JPG)
-
Nice job so far, Looks quite a bit like mine although you have managed to not make the same rookie mistakes I made so you are off to a good start. I see from the plugs that you are UK somewhere. Welcome to BYOAC :applaud:
Can you show us a full side profile, I like the angled cut at the bottom, I was lazy and just went with a straight back.
Do you have any ideas on a theme for the machine? T-molding?
How will you be finishing the outside? Paint? Laminate?
Screws on the outside, Are these screwed straight into the ends of the mdf? Have you already glued up? Personally I would use joining blocks internally wherever possible, if you are having screws on the outside I presume they will be countersunk and covered :applaud:
-
I've seen that shape before..... Just can't put my finger on it! :-\
-
Thanks :)
Yeah i'm from the near Nottingham in the U.K. I'll post some more pictures.
I have screwed straight into the 12mm MDF, I know some people use internal blocks but it seams fairly stable so far.
Its not glued or anything yet i'm just concentrating on getting all the wood cut and fixed temp.
I do plan on counter sinking all the screws and filling/sanding flat.
Ive already got some black T-molding but one problem i'm having is working out what kind of router and cutting size bit i need?
Its going to be painted black and art on the sides. Regarding a theme i was thinking maybe Street Fighter 4? (Chun-li, Cammy, Ryu).
Oh and by the way its going to be two player, The control panel is just about big enough i think!
I'll keep updating if some people are interested.
(http://i.minus.com/id7Io2pB5hTlF.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/imkZ5rgPJiGEc.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/ibt3GXXIBb70Gl.JPG)
-
I've seen that shape before..... Just can't put my finger on it! :-\
Sorry Unstupid, Your build was my greatest influence its true. I really loved your design. Your probably the reason i'm even doing this. :D
-
Ive already got some black T-molding but one problem i'm having is working out what kind of router and cutting size bit i need?
You are going to want a 1/16" slot cutting bit, not unlike this one here: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/ (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/) . You may want to unscrew the side panels first so that you don't hit a screw as you are cutting the slots!
-
Indeed that would be the correct cutter. See the thread linked for other UK based members that are here. You should find a few sites for the cutter listed in there. I got mine from the states and it ended up costing about the same as it would here due to customs and charges etc.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129528.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129528.0.html)
Oh and as long as you have more then 19" across cp then there is plenty of room for a 2 player setup with 6 buttons, It gets a little cramped when a pair of grown people are playing. But that's what real friends are for.
-
I've seen that shape before..... Just can't put my finger on it! :-\
Sorry Unstupid, Your build was my greatest influence its true. I really loved your design. Your probably the reason i'm even doing this. :D
Hahaha, happy to serve as your inspiration... Let me know if you need any more help with the design.
-
Ive already got some black T-molding but one problem i'm having is working out what kind of router and cutting size bit i need?
You are going to want a 1/16" slot cutting bit, not unlike this one here: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/ (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/) . You may want to unscrew the side panels first so that you don't hit a screw as you are cutting the slots!
Thanks Unstupid, I ordered the one you suggested.
-
I managed to get a bit more done this weekend, Finished the control panel and and back access door.
Just waiting now for the router bit to arrive then i can cut the slots and start painting and fixing. Building this is a lot more work than i expected but its also really enjoyable.
(http://i.minus.com/iFQsjdaRRT3sU.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/iAX1WjNXDRnOF.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/ibjj5SGRgq3Wba.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/ikAHIfAMaYzhi.JPG)
-
Waiting to get paid before i can do anymore :( So just planing my next move.
I do have a couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to answer.
Regarding the control panel, Does it matter if i drill all the holes before i apply the vinyl art?
What's the best way to secure the control panel and stop it coming open when the machine is in use?
Thanks.
(http://i.minus.com/iRwBni0ZFwKKd.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/ibhx4ZmhBbsB4D.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/imZ3U2KzYFBq.JPG)
-
Yes allways drill before the vinyl is applied. Then stick you art over and just cut the holes out...
Two screws in the side at the bottom with some fancy caps on is what secures my cp...
Check it out here :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnM12SrE0m8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Youll need to add some rails in my opinion inside the cab and screw your mdf to those..I doubt screwing straight into the mdf will hold well...is it 12mm youve used...what size screws?
-
I'm getting there slowly, I think it will look better once its finished and i've got some art on the sides.
(http://i.minus.com/iR8YDj9mLcyIj.JPG)
-
Hello!! how wide is the control panel ?? ???
-
My guess is 21"
-
Nice work ! Look forward to seeing some more pics.
That piano hinge on the underside of the C.P. - Been thinking of trying that method on my build, but not sure about it. Is it holding int the edge of the MDF okay ? does it show much from the front? Does the control panel lay flat okay ?
-
Very nice so far! :applaud:
-
Hello!! how wide is the control panel ?? ???
Hi guys :) Been a bit bust lately so not had a lot of time to work on my cab. Next month should be more productive i think.
The control panel is 17" wide. I always intended to go two player and was worried there just wasn't enough room a one point but its just about ok.
The piano hinge system i'm using for the cp and the door at the back works really well, I must admit i got the idea from somebody else like just about everything ;D!
I did have to be really careful when screwing not to split the mdf edge, If i'd gone with 18mm instead of 12mm it would have been less of a problem.
Next plan is to finish fitting the joysticks and then find the best way to secure the cp, I'm thinking long bolts all the way though with nuts underneath.
And by the way the marquee art is just temp, i just wanted to get an idea of art work designs.
Thanks for looking and all the best.
(http://i.minus.com/iiR5QtLZYUxL8.JPG)
-
Looks real good!
How about some sort of door catch to hold your CP down? You can access the catch from the back side, then it wont be visible from the front.
-
I agree. looks nice. It would have looked a lot better also if you had smoothed and sanded the wood. :badmood: The front of the CP needs smoothing. A few hours of wood filler sanding and priming should fix it. I'm just anal about little details like that. :soapbox: Still that whole white with black stripe and red buttons is always a fave of mine.. :applaud:
-
Not got a lot done recently but this weekend i managed to finish the cp.
Its a bit messy inside but its really secure now and looks ok when closed.
I'd be interested to know what you guys think? :) At this rate i think i'm looking at September for completion.
(http://i.minus.com/i1dAmLsDgRRqw.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/iAE46mJYsTDZQ.JPG)
(http://i.minus.com/ibirVfJJGz9Hmt.JPG)
-
September? Damn that's a long time away!
-
September? Damn that's a long time away!
I've been working on mine since last October. I've only completed getting the weecade together and painted. ETA for mine: November 2084. :lol
-
September? Damn that's a long time away!
On the CoryBee scale, it's an eternity.
On the Pixelhugger/Ond scale, it's a blink of the eye. :duckhunt
Scott
-
September? Damn that's a long time away!
On the CoryBee scale, it's an eternity.
On the Pixelhugger/Ond scale, it's a blink of the eye. :duckhunt
Scott
(http://i2.wp.com/ilikeyoulikeyou.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/i-like-you.jpg)
-
:dizzy: I don't get what you're saying, Cory. :dizzy:
I was comparing OP's September completion estimate to the speed of your builds (You'd have that one and 6 more done by then), Pixelhugger's Mission Control (8 years) and Ond's Retro-Futuristic. (4 years and counting)
ETA for mine: November 2084. :lol
I know what you mean.
The standing joke in my family is that I put the "pro" in procrastinate. :laugh2:
Scott
-
On the build: I absolutely love the black t-molding on the all white cabinet. My only suggestion would have been all black buttons but it looks spiff either way
To PL1:
(http://mlkshk.com/r/K1XG)
-
and Ond's Retro-Futuristic. (4 years and counting)
Heyyy how come I get called out on slowness, when there's dudes around here (don't ask me who, but there ARE dudes) who admit to 5 years+ for their projects?
Just you all wait...oh, no that's probably the wrong word to use...., you'll all see!
Well my POV is, so long as I'm actively working on the project - slow to complete don't matter.
-
Heyyy how come I get called out on slowness
. . .
slow to complete don't matter.
I wasn't calling anyone out.
My point was that there's nothing wrong with taking the time you need to get it right. :cheers:
Everybody has a pace that they do best at -- if you rush things too much you're more likely to end up with a putty nose (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120427.msg1277732.html#msg1277732) instead of a realized vision.
I mentioned your and PH's builds because they are well known, highly respected, demonstrate incredble attenton to detail, and just so happened to take years to complete. :notworthy:
Scott
-
I wasn't calling anyone out.
My point was that there's nothing wrong with taking the time you need to get it right. :cheers:
Everybody has a pace that they do best at -- if you rush things too much you're more likely to end up with a putty nose (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120427.msg1277732.html#msg1277732) instead of a realized vision.
I mentioned your and PH's builds because they are well known, highly respected, demonstrate incredble attenton to detail, and just so happened to take years to complete. :notworthy:
Scott
Heh my paranoia's showing. That putty nose is a good analogy, it should become a standard term. PH was my hero when I was getting started building, not for his lengthy project time of course but for his build quality. :cheers:
@ James76 - Nice color combo on this cab.
-
Hi!
You've mentioned that you're using 12mm MDF. Where did you get the 12mm t-molding?
Cheers!
-
Hi, I got the t-molding from "www.arcadeworlduk.com"
Its the 1/2 inch stuff needed for 12mm mdf. Good prices and fast shipping.
On a separate note i've started adding a bit of art, Its only really temp till i can afford some proper side vinyl.
Also i'm not happy with the white marquee holder, going to spay them black.
The speaker holes are 4 inch in diameter but can i hell find any grills to fit! Still looking :(
(http://i.minus.com/i3xGwT68ukzNI.JPG)
-
Looks really good James.
I too am from the UK. England.
ArcadeWorldUK.com rock. They give as much advice as you could want and great prices quality product. Have you seen their Happ Buttons. Very nice colours just got some myself. Red, Yellow, Orange, Black.
:cheers: Bartop looks great BTW. Careful with Vinyl it looks easy to apply but I've found its a pain in the arse.
-
4inch speaker holes? Why did you go for 4inch? Just curious.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pyramid-MDC5-Waterproof-Marine-Speaker/dp/B001PL9V4Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1371355413&sr=8-7&keywords=4inch+speakers (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pyramid-MDC5-Waterproof-Marine-Speaker/dp/B001PL9V4Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1371355413&sr=8-7&keywords=4inch+speakers)
Bust them open, secure the cone in place and then put a couple of smaller speakers behind them. They would still be the business.
Look like they would fit for your cab. But obviously there are power considerations so you'd have to like I say take the cones.
:cheers: CJ
-
Careful with Vinyl it looks easy to apply but I've found its a pain in the arse.
Make sure you watch and learn all the best tricks and techniques for vinyl in the Side Art Install 101 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120041.0.html) thread by Rikitiki, a true master of the art.
Scott
-
Thanks for that Scott. I will check it out myself :)
CJ
-
Don't paint the marquee holder....it looks great just like it is.
-
Im diggin the white.