Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: Brian74 on March 04, 2013, 10:01:58 am
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I did the Happ Logitech hack, but Im just not happy with it. So I decided that I WILL put my G-25 in my Daytona Usa 2 cabinet. The problem is that that shaft is not long enough to pass threw the dash the way it is. My first idea is to get some round hollow aluminum tubing with the thickest sidewall I can find. Then get one of these http://www.robotcombat.com/products/MB-UCF204-12.html (http://www.robotcombat.com/products/MB-UCF204-12.html) and one of theses http://www.hrbearing.com/products1.asp?ct=Pillow%20Block%20Bearings (http://www.hrbearing.com/products1.asp?ct=Pillow%20Block%20Bearings) Make it something like this
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Wouldn't it make more sense to do it the other way around?
Strip the motor and ect out of the g25 and mount it on the arcade wheel.
Just my 2 cents.
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Care to elaborate Howard?
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Wouldn't it make more sense to do it the other way around?
Strip the motor and ect out of the g25 and mount it on the arcade wheel.
Just my 2 cents.
Due to the way it's designed, it's really not that easy.
Everything is held together by the bottom half of the shell.
It uses a rack and pinion for the stops and if it is one tooth off, it fails calibration.
The 900 degrees of rotation that it needs to pass calibration on startup would also be a PITA to overcome.
I think you're on the right track as far as making it work with minimal hassle. I'd shop go-cart parts.
They make 3/4" hollow shafts if you wanted to try to keep the paddle shifters and buttons on the wheel.
Figuring out how to keep the wires from being fatigued by being rotated at the other end would be a serious issue to overcome.
If you put a gear on the other end instead of mating it straight to the G25, you could use one of these:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382)
You'd have to use a two gears with the same tooth count on the G25 & steering shaft, then one in between.
That would keep it from being reversed or rotating more/less than it should.
Of course you don't have to have buttons and paddle shifters. :)
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Thanks Badmouth, if I can, I want to keep the buttons and the paddles for games that use them. Like you I plan on putting the G-25 shifter in place of the 4 speed. I think I have it figured out to be able to do the six speed and sequential shifter like it is now.
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Like you I plan on putting the G-25 shifter in place of the 4 speed.
Not me. Must be thinking of gbeef's outrun paradise.
I hate the Logitech shifter and love the sega 4 speed. :P
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LoL you are right
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I have to do the same thing with a G27 in a Sega Rally Dash. I haven't spent much time looking into this but my initial thought was to add a spacer inbetween the steering wheel and the end of the existing shaft. This would probably only work if I need to extend by less than an inch which for me may be enough.
So basically the existing wheel has 6 allen key bolts that go into the shaft. I would then get a spacer made up that has six holes drilled into it that line up with holes in the steering. I would then have to get longer bolts that would screw into the original threads.
A couple of issues with this method that I'm unsure about are if the existing threads would take the force from the wheel being further away plus the lever arm effect on the whole shaft back to the main unit due to the extra length. Also, I would be unsure if the force feedback would still feel the same after the mod.
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I have to do the same thing with a G27 in a Sega Rally Dash. I haven't spent much time looking into this but my initial thought was to add a spacer inbetween the steering wheel and the end of the existing shaft. This would probably only work if I need to extend by less than an inch which for me may be enough.
So basically the existing wheel has 6 allen key bolts that go into the shaft. I would then get a spacer made up that have six holes drilled into it that line up with holes in the steering. I would then have to get longer bolts that would screw into the original threads.
A couple of issues with this method that I'm unsure about are if the existing threads would take the force from the wheel being further away plus the lever arm effect on the whole shaft back to the main unit due to the extra length. Also, I would be unsure if the force feedback would still feel the same after the mod.
The only thing I worry about doing it that way, I have kids. The youngest has to hang from the wheel to be able to reach the peddles. My other fear is that when people get in and out of the cab, they grab the wheel to brace themselves. Idk how long a wheel could take that without breaking.
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I tired with a G27 a couple ways. the frist was as to extending the wheel using a piece of pipe PVC which acutally worked well. The problem is when people start to bag on the machine. Therefore thats when i thought about cutting the dash and refinished it, Instead. I had to buy 2X G27 wheels because the first one was so hacked up.
I Also love the Sega shifter, But i play alot of sim racing also. So i wanted a 6 speed.
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I tired with a G27 a couple ways. the frist was as to extending the wheel using a piece of pipe PVC which acutally worked well. The problem is when people start to bag on the machine. Therefore thats when i thought about cutting the dash and refinished it, Instead. I had to buy 2X G27 wheels because the first one was so hacked up.
I saw pics in your thread of how you did it the first time. Shame it wasn't good functional wise as it looked great with the original gauges intact. It still looks great when you ended up cutting the dash, especially to someone that didn't know what the orignal dash looked like.
Out of interest, did you have to extend the shaft by much with your first attempt? I'm still thinking of trying to do mine without cutting the dash first.
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I think it 3 - 4 inches and i still had to cut the dash.
Good luck.
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Hey gbeef, I like that artwork you did for the vr buttons and such. Whats the chance of having you make something like that. But incorporating the playstation buttons with the 1 2 3 4. Where you have the black button, I will add a directional pad.
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I just got my aluminum tubing. It has 1/8 walls. Now to get the adapters made.
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Dropped of the pipe today. The adapters will be done by wed. Now I just need to find the right bearings and housings.
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Well, I got my shaft back. When I first told them what I wanted. I was told would be 2.5hrs at 75.00 a hour! I said I didnt wanna send that much. Then I told him to do it the simpler way, he said a hr. When it was all said and done, was 3hrs!! 163.00 later I have this.
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Here I installed the bearings and what was left of the shaft. Now I have to fine adjust it to find the sweet spot.
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It frustrates me when companies quote an HR and charge three or four.
If any regular posting members ever want anything like this welded up in mild steel then I can help. Charge of parts and consumables only.
(you must be a regular posting member please)
I will say though, It does look a really nice job thats been done.
Should do the trick nicely.
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If you're putting a u-joint on that shaft anywhere, be careful how you do and the angel you give it. Torque gets funky with weird angles
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Well, I got my shaft back. When I first told them what I wanted. I was told would be 2.5hrs at 75.00 a hour! I said I didnt wanna send that much. Then I told him to do it the simpler way, he said a hr. When it was all said and done, was 3hrs!! 163.00 later I have this.
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Same thing happened to me when I had a machinist widen the steering column hole and weld four bolts to a Daytona dash.
It's precise to thousanths of an inch, which is completely unnecessary, but the guy works how he works and doesn't change his ways for any job.
I've since started giving my small stuff to a friend that works graveyard shift in the machine shop of a factory.
If nothing in the factory needs repaired or scheduled maintenance, then he is supposed to sit and read the paper.
EDIT: Oh and that setup looks sweet so far! I'd probably copy it if I hadn't sold my G27 a couple months ago. :banghead:
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Well, I got my shaft back. When I first told them what I wanted. I was told would be 2.5hrs at 75.00 a hour! I said I didnt wanna send that much. Then I told him to do it the simpler way, he said a hr. When it was all said and done, was 3hrs!! 163.00 later I have this.
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So I guess it would be safe to say that you got shafted? :lol
Seriously though if you want something done cheaply do it yourself. As you've probably figured out you could have just about bought stock and a drill press capable of drilling it for that much.
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Well, I got my shaft back. When I first told them what I wanted. I was told would be 2.5hrs at 75.00 a hour! I said I didnt wanna send that much. Then I told him to do it the simpler way, he said a hr. When it was all said and done, was 3hrs!! 163.00 later I have this.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
So I guess it would be safe to say that you got shafted? :lol
Seriously though if you want something done cheaply do it yourself. As you've probably figured out you could have just about bought stock and a drill press capable of drilling it for that much.
Well I do have a drill press, but no welder.
If you're putting a u-joint on that shaft anywhere, be careful how you do and the angel you give it. Torque gets funky with weird angles
I am first going to try to keep it a straight shaft. Im trying to keep weight down to a minimal. I have been looking for a u-joint, they are not cheap.
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Its been to cold and not much time to work on the shaft. Here is a couple pics of the shaft slide into place and the wheel mounted.
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Looks good.
This is what I wanted to do with my G27 / Daytona Dash. But the number of wires in the G27 wheel scared me off.
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Check it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKrq8dxwbqk&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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awesome work on this man. nice work
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That is very impressive work. But doesn't having an extended steering shaft dampen the ffb effects somewhat?
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Thanks for the complements ^-^
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That is very impressive work. But doesn't having an extended steering shaft dampen the ffb effects somewhat?
I have only tested the ffb threw the profiler. It seems to be as strong as it was before.
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