Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: aricade on November 06, 2003, 09:50:46 am
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I want to do a rework of my control panel. I want to start from scratch rebuild. For many reasons wich I wont go into.
I currently have a 2 1/4" trackball, Instead of buying/making a tb plate, I'd like to route out space for the tb with my dremel, I dont own a router.
Is this possible. Is there an attachment for the dremel that can do this?
Cheers,
Aricade
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With the router base attachment it's possible I suppose. Honestly though, you'll likely have worn the Dremel out by the time it's done. Figuring the price of the attachment and a replacement Dremel you'd have paid for a router, which will do a nicer job with much less effort.
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If you won't buy a router, use a chisel (carefully). Routing with Dremels kills Dremels.
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Mabe I could rent a router from a place like rentalex or something?
it's a plunge router right? Is it difficult to use. It' looks quit simple as long as I get the depth right.
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Mabe I could rent a router from a place like rentalex or something?
it's a plunge router right? Is it difficult to use. It' looks quit simple as long as I get the depth right.
A plunge router is not require, but its a nice feature. You always take a little off at a time so if its not a plunge you just tip it into where you want to route. Plunge is nice because you can work your way down to the depth you want without re-adjusting it.
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I currently have a 2 1/4" trackball, Instead of buying/making a tb plate, I'd like to route out space for the tb with my dremel, I dont own a router.
Is this possible. Is there an attachment for the dremel that can do this?
Yes it is but..........
Your cab is worth $1500 plus I'm guessing, is it worth taking a chance using a Dremel for this job over buying a router for $100?
Since I started building cab's I've found out that not using the right tool for the job.....
1. Makes it harder.
2. Doesn't give you the best results.
Go buy a router, you will be glad you did.
Gary
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I've got the router base for the dremel. I've used it to rout wood, and to cut slots through aluminum.
Recently I got a new dremel with a slant base. I used it to "route" concrete. They sell it specifically for the purpose too. It's called a grout removal kit. I cut about 100" of cement grout 1/8" deep. The dremel functions like new.
Routing a piece of wood with the router bit should not be any problem. Here are the issues:
1) You can't rout very deep in one pass. Don't take off more than 1/16 to 1/8 inch of wood at any one time. Go slow.
2) The base is small. There is no way to route a wide swath of anything, because the base will tip into the hole.
If you're trying to route a fairly narrow swath of any depth you can do it, or if you're trying to route a fairly shallow swath of any width you can do that. You just need to take your time and be careful.
It helps if you can set up some guides to keep the tool within the area you're working on. It's a lot easier to control the dremel than a full sized tool, imho.
In any case, practice on a scrap of similar material until you feel comfortable with the tool.
Bob
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Thanx guys,
Appreciate the input.
Chisel sounds interesting. My dad is handy at carving and has some chisels. I might ask him to help if I go this route.
I just dont have money to spend on a router. I may have to beg, borrow, or steal :) But If i find someone willing to loan a router to me I will definately do it this way.
I think I'll try the router attachment for the dremel and test it out on scrap mdf... Depends how much it costs...
Cheers,
Aricade
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You can get a new trim router for $20 the dremel attachment is going to run $25-30. You could probably pick up a used router for $5-10 at a garage sale. With either you still need to buy a bit.
Of course if you got time and patience a chisel will work just fine.
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What type of wood?
I used MDF. My dremel went through that like butter. I routed quite abit of my cabine with my dremel.
The big thing is you need sharp bits. Rotozip's bits were on sale at the time so I used many of those :)
BTW,a rotozip would be better if you didn't want a big router. The rotozip is more powerful than a dremel.
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I too have had no problems routing MDF with Dremel + Router attachment. I usually route 1/4" in one pass and it just tears right through it. I did fry a dremel though cutting slots for t-molding using that round disc blade.
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I cut the sides of my arcade cab out with a dremel and the router attachment...worked pretty good.
But when I tried to cut the t-molding groove - burnt up 2 dremels...ouch!
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I too have had no problems routing MDF with Dremel + Router attachment. I usually route 1/4" in one pass and it just tears right through it. I did fry a dremel though cutting slots for t-molding using that round disc blade.
Before when I talked about the really shallow cutting depth, I was picturing my cabinet, which is made from particle board. Cutting MDF is much easier. I don't know if I'd want to try it with a chisel though... Anyone have experience using a chisel on MDF?
Bob
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Yes it's MDF, MMMM BUTTER!!!!! DOH!
What type of wood?
I used MDF. My dremel went through that like butter. I routed quite abit of my cabine with my dremel.
The big thing is you need sharp bits. Rotozip's bits were on sale at the time so I used many of those :)
BTW,a rotozip would be better if you didn't want a big router. The rotozip is more powerful than a dremel.
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BTW,a rotozip would be better if you didn't want a big router. The rotozip is more powerful than a dremel.
Dremel actually makes a rotozip clone so it kind of depends if your talking about the traditional dremel or the rotozip clone dremel. They also make a bunch of sizes of the traditional style, some with bigger motors and some wimpy underpowered ones even some cordless versions.
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I currently have a 2 1/4" trackball, Instead of buying/making a tb plate, I'd like to route out space for the tb with my dremel, I dont own a router.
Is this possible....
Dremel can route, but I think a major point is being missed: The wood is not strong enough.
2 1/4" TBs have a 1/16" lip; that's how thin you'll need to route the wood to have the ball all the way out. Once you let the wood stay thicker, the ball will be that that much lower.
You could support the TB case from underneath or the sides, but even then 1/16" wood is prone to crack, chip, or flake off.
A laminate/lexan/plexi won't chip like wood. But 1.5mm ~= 1/16", so even with a 1.5mm-2mm thin lam/lex means you should cut all the way through the wood in order to get all of the ball above the CP. (You should have at least some support from the bottom with laminate on the top, too.)
So, IMO, the answer to the first question is no, making the question on dremels for your CP mote. [shrug]
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If you are going to route with a dremel get the advantage spiral saw with the router base. I have used this thing with the spiral saw and the router base. And was able to cut out a perfect hole for my trackball. And then I switched bits and routed the recess for the mounting plate. Also this tool is made for heavy use and it has a speed ajustment dial.
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Here's the hole I made with the spiral saw and router base attachment.
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If you are going to route with a dremel get the advantage spiral saw with the router base. I have used this thing with the spiral saw and the router base. And was able to cut out a perfect hole for my trackball. And then I switched bits and routed the recess for the mounting plate. Also this tool is made for heavy use and it has a speed ajustment dial.
The spiral saw you show is the rotozip clone. When people talk about dremels they are usually talking about the much smaller hand held jobs.