Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: shponglefan on February 21, 2013, 12:23:42 pm
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The standard top of a CP is usually layered with wood/MDF on the bottom, then art/laminate, then plexi/lexan.
What I was wondering if it's possible to replace the wood/MDF portion with something transparent (like 1/4" or 1/2" plexi). So the idea would be to have plexi base, a transparent or semi-transparent art sheet, then 1/8" or so plexi on top.
My main concern is strength. Obviously plexi might be more prone to cracking than standard wood or MDF. I wonder if mounting a joystick would require addtional support. The other issue would be not being able to use T-molding around the edges; but I wonder if polished plexi edges might look okay?
My reasoning for this is the possibility of making a glowing/light-up control panel; not just buttons, but the control panel itself.
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I seriously considered doing this for my cab (making the top transparent and the bottom part of the control panel have the artwork), but logistically I couldn't think of a way to make it look nice. Would love to see someone take a shot at it though!
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I was looking at some 3/4" thick acrylic sheets, seems expensive. But it would be nice to see an example.
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I think I have some 1/4" plexi kicking around, so I might experiment with a simple panel to see how it goes.
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Someone here did that before, but I'm too lazy to search for it... >:D
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The concept has been done before, check out those little acrylic projects (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110527.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110527.0.html)). Basically they layered 1/8" acrylic and built up so that you can put in the screws / bolts for your joy sticks without being seen since it was sandwiched in there. No artwork like you want to do but it should be very doable.
- --- -- Top layer
xxxxxxxx Art Work
- --- -- Below Artwork
- --- -- Another layer below the artwork where the screw / bolt head might be
- --- -- Smaller concentric holes so the bolt does not go through
- --- -- Smaller concentric holes so the bolt does not go through
- --- -- Joy stick mounted
Probably not so many layers, but you get the idea.
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I would use thick plexi (like 1" maybe?) for the control panel, artwork on top, and then a thin sheet of acrylic over that. Plexi scratches easily, acrylic does not. I don't really ever work with plexi but it might flex if your panel is wide.
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I've planned on doing something like this on my bartop design. Except just to light the CP art from underneath, like the marquee area.
Plexi ---------
Art xxxxxx
Plexi ---------
LEDs -^-^-^-
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If you're looking for a layer that is less prone to cracking and does a great job of diffusing illumination, try some 1/2" white cutting board like this (http://www.amazon.com/Stanton-Trading-2-Inch-Cutting-Board/dp/B0032AM0LW/) or one of the smaller ones.
The attached photo shows a scrap of the linked 1/2" cutting board backlit by a el-cheapo 9-LED flashlight that I got free from Harbor Freight.
To see how well the board acts as a diffuser, the MDF has 2 standard button holes and the flashlight is about 3/8" from the underside of the cutting board which is resting directly on the MDF.
Scott
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Ok here we go...
Plexi = acrylic. Plexiglass is a brand of acrylic.
I stock 1.5, 2, 3, 4.5, 6, 10, 12, 15, 20, 25 and 30mm acrylic.
Granted, this is a single player CP but this has a 6mm, 1/4", top and it has zero flex.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y57/selfie/20121004_161703.jpg)
For a 2 player CP 10 or 12mm, 1/2", is all you will need in place of the normally used ply or MDF.
Illuminating the inside of a CP is possible but be prepared to use lots of LEDs to get even lighting. Most LEDs have an effective display angle of 90 degrees. To ensure there are no dark spots a 50mm deep CP will need LEDs no more than 50mm apart. The deeper you go the less you have to use BUT you have to remember that all the buttons, joystick and wires will throw shadows that will require extra lighting to fill the dark spots. This can lead to bright spots...
I'm not trying to talk you out of it because it will look cool if you can get it right but don't assume it will be easy.
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I don't really ever work with plexi but it might flex if your panel is wide.
I'm thinking just a one player stick for now, probably no wider than 16 inches or so.
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Cutting board material is HDPE, High Density PolyEthylene, it is a bit softer than acrylic and will bend a bit too but it is a good option too
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I don't really ever work with plexi but it might flex if your panel is wide.
I'm thinking just a one player stick for now, probably no wider than 16 inches or so.
If you panel has a fold or two in it 1/4" will only flex with pretty heavy force. My red cab is 12" wide. 10mm or 12mm, 1/2", is what I would recommend. I only say 10mm because it is a lot more common than 12mm
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Which is the stuff that scratches easily if plexi and acrylic are the same? Or is that just clear plastic?
Google is my friend.
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Polycarbonate is softer and scratches more easily than acrylic. It will also tend to yellow and craze when exposed to UV for too long. Acrylic is brittle, and will crack more easily. But it machines better, and is less prone to scratching when cared for. Just like most brittle materials, a clean cut, fine sanded or flame polished edges, will help prevent cracking caused by small fractures and stress. Be careful using alcohol based cleaners on certain types of flame polished or laser cut acrylic. If you have the wrong type, you won't like what happens.