Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: sdweim85 on February 13, 2013, 01:35:20 pm
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I posted a topic a week or so ago about how I moved out and I was looking at ideas get playing my arcade again. Making a pedestal was the most convenient idea with a mounted TV, but even more so I decided to just put everything in the control panel, since I already have a control panel done.
So my question is, what precautions should I take with putting PC parts inside a wooden box. It would obviously have holes for the back of the motherboard, a hole for the Power supply, and 2 venting holes with fans blowing outward. I'd also get a bunch of small L shaped brackets so every piece would not be sitting directly on the wood itself inside the box. In the end only having to plug in a hdmi/vga/dvi cord and a power plug.
Is there anything else I'm missing? Also does anyone have either a link to a site that has done something like this before with instructions? Or maybe just measurements for a control panel box for a UMK3 control panel. I think its JAMMA.
This was my arcade
http://s1129.beta.photobucket.com/user/sdweim85/media/Arcade/IMG_1034.jpg.html (http://s1129.beta.photobucket.com/user/sdweim85/media/Arcade/IMG_1034.jpg.html)
I only have that top control panel part now, with all the buttons, sticks, and wiring. I plan on also having the marquee Mvsc as the front of it.
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Depending on parts and how much heat is generating, you may want intake fans or just vents in the front. I'd start a simple version and monitor temps.
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Is there enough room to put the whole computer in there? I've always failed to see the reason why peeps will spend a bunch of time figuring how to mount the components of a computer system in a large upright.
good day.
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Mounting on wood is fine. The big issue is going to be airflow/cooling. I'd put an intake at one end and an exhaust at the other. You'll want to make sure to get adequate airflow across the motherboard/CPU, as well as the hard drive (and also the Power supply, although I'm assuming it has it's own exhaust fan).
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+1
Wood is fine, just use standard standoffs, and make sure things are vented well.
Also, put a master power switch in that shuts off power to the entire things with one switch. then, no worries, just don't leave it running 24hours.
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Might want to consider using SSD (if you hadn't already) -> less heat & shock resistant!
And then in laying out the parts, keep in mind you don't block airflow by trying to cram everything into the smallest possible configuration.
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Is there enough room to put the whole computer in there? I've always failed to see the reason why peeps will spend a bunch of time figuring how to mount the components of a computer system in a large upright.
good day.
Because it seems more authentic that way. That's why I do it. :cheers:
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Is there enough room to put the whole computer in there? I've always failed to see the reason why peeps will spend a bunch of time figuring how to mount the components of a computer system in a large upright.
good day.
Because it seems more authentic that way. That's why I do it. :cheers:
Agreed, it just looks nicer (",)
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I have been running this setup for years, without any issues.
One note though, consider how to damp vibrations caused by the fan(s) and drive(s). Vibrations multiply in the wood and can be really annoying.
There are plenty good reasons to go SSD, and this is certainly one. It also would reduce heating and thus also reduce the need for cooling which will reduce the need for fans and so on...
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In my upright arcade I just left all the parts in the PC case and shoved it in there. No one was going to see it anyways, and I wired the power button to the front anyways.
Regardless I'm not putting it in a upright, Its going in the control panel box, which won't be large enough to hold the case also.
The SSD is a good idea, that will cut down the heat, allow it to boot faster, and shut down faster. Looks like I'll be heading to Home Depot this weekend.
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Real arcade games that run on PC hardware usually stick a whole PC in there, case and all. You really only got decased motherboards with megatouch, tournment solitaire and similar titles.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274055)
-There's no chance of dropping a tool or bumping the mobo or any other parts of the pc with an elbow.
-If it needs servicing, disconnect and bring to the bench.
-no altering of airflow designs to crucial pc components.
-heat rises most cabs have a bottom inflow (in this case a DK cab has an intake in the bottom of back cover and the handle openings at the top act as outlets by original design) set pc case on bottom of cab and forget about fancy fans and wiring.
good day.
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That's all well and good, but I will always decase mine in my projects, as it gives it an air of authenticity that I love.
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-no altering of airflow designs to crucial pc components.
That were designed due to those crucial components being installed in tightly confined spaces. Once decased, not really an issue.
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There are arguments for and against decasing and what's best for you depends on your point of view.
I pretty much always mount my PC bits on a wood board, which I then mount inside the cab.
EDIT: I thought about it and the only cab where I used a case was my first. NTTAWWT.
-There's no chance of dropping a tool or bumping the mobo or any other parts of the pc with an elbow.
-If it needs servicing, disconnect and bring to the bench.
-no altering of airflow designs to crucial pc components.
-heat rises most cabs have a bottom inflow (in this case a DK cab has an intake in the bottom of back cover and the handle openings at the top act as outlets by original design) set pc case on bottom of cab and forget about fancy fans and wiring.
If you bump a board mounted inside your cab with an elbow, then you are doing it wrong.
For someone like me, who has multiple cabs and regularly has to move one to get at another, having a loose PC in a cab is far more likely to cause a problem than having a PC mounted on a board.
I build with real arcade monitors and JAMMA interfaces, and my test bench uses (surprise, surprise) a real arcade monitor and JAMMA interface, so it is way easier to just pull the slab. Also easier to diagnose control issues.
I have never had a problem with heat build-up in a cab, even though people talk about it like it happens all the time. I suspect it's like the "people die discharging monitors" discussions .
Whatever works best for your application is the right answer.
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If you bump a board mounted inside your cab with an elbow, then you are doing it wrong.
:duckhunt
Makes me wish BYOAC had a rep system...
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If you bump a board mounted inside your cab with an elbow, then you are doing it wrong.
:duckhunt
Makes me wish BYOAC had a rep system...
We do ... it's called the fort.
:afro:
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I think this got derailed a bit Lol. I more or less got my answer anyways.