Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ryan671 on February 10, 2013, 04:55:51 pm
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I am just about done with my first arcade cabinet but am having a couple small issues.
I have purchased 2 cheaper USB hubs on eBay to control all my devices. I have a IPAC4, 3" trackball, Keyboard, Spinner, 2 Aimtrak light guns (not installed yet)
My problem is the IPAC4 does not seem to like being connected to the hub. I have tried both a powered and non powered hub. I am not sure if it is because there is already a Keyboard hooked to this hub or what, but if I run the IPAC on its own USB cable, it seems to work just fine. My cabinet does not have the computer internal, it just had a usb cord running out of the back to the computer. I will use this computer as a regular comp also, so this made it a bit easier for me. however, I would like to only run 1 usb cable and not 2 if possible. Any suggestions? Anyone else see these types of issues? Do I just need to spend more than $10 on a hub and get a namebrand one? Or just run 2 cables and live with it?
My last things do finish up are...
Replace 3/4" t-molding with 7/8" (ordered last week)
Make some type of holsters for light guns and get them installed.
Clean up USB cords after problem is fixed and guns are installed.
install 4 adjustable feet. (just received them, just need help laying the cab down gently)
Clean the garage... LOL
This will be in my garage full time, so I also bought a BBQ cover that fits it nicely to keep out dust when I am not using it. The problem is a seem to always be using it. =)
The monitor on the wall is a 46" samsung
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This is something I never see people talk much about, but yea, I've had USB compatibility issues a lot. While it's not the USB hub I used with my ipac (That one was a bit flakey too), Satechi makes my fave hub right now. A bit much ($27 for 12 ports), but I've not had it ever have issue with anything I throw at it. My main PC is rack mounted, with 8 USB DVD drives on top for ripping movies for my home theater, and they all work fine. My HTPC downstairs has a bunch of wifi dongles for control pads, keyboards, ect, and it works fine too, while the old Rosewill hub would drop my keyboard when the gamepad kicks on.
http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Power-Adapter-Control-Switches/dp/B0051PGX2I (http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Power-Adapter-Control-Switches/dp/B0051PGX2I)
Switching to a powered hub in my last cab created another issue for me, since my insert coin buttons were lighted GGG buttons, The hub bled power and kept them on. I do not know if these hubs have that issue or not when the PC is off, I ended up switching to a smart power strip that turns the powered hub and monitor off.
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I don't think this thread belongs in the Wood-Working sub-forum as it sounds like you're having a problem with the IPac. All of my experience with the IPac has been if you use a USB hub, make sure it's powered for a separate source other than the computer.
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I agree kahlid, I must of been reviewing the wrong area when I posted (my first post here) Sorry. I can not find a way to move it myself, so I am thinking it must take a moderator to do so. If there is one that reads this post, please feel free to move this to the correct location.
Thank you for the input so far. I do not have a problem spending $27 on a hub, as long as it fixes the problem. My current hub is powered with a seperate AC power supply and it did not fix the issue , but as I stated it was very cheap and generic. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
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Don't forget to reach out to Andy from I-Pac. Super nice dude and great to work with. He supports his product fully.