Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: noobsaibotmk on February 05, 2013, 08:13:45 am
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Hi.
i got 3 sets of microswitches, can you advise me wich ones I should use into my control panel (cabinet : Midway Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3) please? ???
The main difference is the amperage (15A or 3A). I don't understant why...
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because they are only being used on an arcade cab (low volts) the amps rating does not matter in this case, so you can use any.
and which should you pick. everyone has different tastes but personally my favorite microswitches must be:
1. quiet in operation (i dont like loud clicks, especially when playing at night time :lol
2. not too much resistance.. (i dont like it when the switch is too firm to press. i prefer them light
so.... im guessing the white E-SWITCH is probably the best :)
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because they are only being used on an arcade cab (low volts) the amps rating does not matter in this case, so you can use any.
and which should you pick. everyone has different tastes but personally my favorite microswitches must be:
1. quiet in operation (i dont like loud clicks, especially when playing at night time :lol
2. not too much resistance.. (i dont like it when the switch is too firm to press. i prefer them light
so.... im guessing the white E-SWITCH is probably the best :)
Thank you very much for this useful answer. :applaud:
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Those black microswitches are from the 90's, and pretty decent. I have a handful at home.
The E-Switch is the replacement for the Cherry switch everybody raved about. Those are also really nice.
The others are junk.
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Thank you ;-)
ps : the black one is the rear-side of the yellow microswitch
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Thank you ;-)
ps : the black one is the rear-side of the yellow microswitch
Ah, yeah. Baolian. I see that now.
I was thinking of the all-black microswitches that were in the 90's stuff before the Cherry's. I'll have to look and see who branded them when I get home. Trying to remember the name is irritating!
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The main difference is the amperage (15A or 3A). I don't understant why...
Higher amperage switches usually have two specific characteristics. One which doesn't matter much in this application, and one which does. The first is a heavier contact point, which is so that any arcing doesn't destroy them prematurely. Doesn't matter much for arcade controls. The other, is a heavier spring which is designed to slam through carbon deposits caused by arcing, and to minimize the arcing itself. This results in a switch that is harder to engage, and is almost always much noisier.
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Okay I understand better.
Any specific specs to know about the red one? I mean..Is this top-plate useful?
thx
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The red one is a lever-actuated switch for joysticks like the iL Compact or Happ Super.
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Okay!
Thanks for your help again 8)