Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: S.P.A.R.R.O.W.S on January 12, 2013, 08:41:14 pm
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Greetings everybody
Recently I've wished to get in to the hobby of arcade gaming and collecting. Due to the limited space with in my home, a large arcade or perhaps even a slim or bartop model were rather bulky options for me and ill fitting. It seemed chances were rather slim that I would ever be able to play more than MAME on a computer. Though with the discovery of super-guns and consolized arcades, it seemed that my goal could be a possibility. With the help of many people who are skilled in their trades, I wish to create a consolized Neo Geo of sorts. Many thanks goes to them for their guidance and assistance, especially to those who helped in design and construction.
(http://i.imgur.com/0bLsf.gif)
The idea for this project is to create an item similar to one of the games the Neo Geo has, Metal Slug. Specifically the ammo boxes for specialized guns and items one recives in game. This rather small box is perfect in many needs; it's ideal for space and can function much like a console would. The design and function shall be much like a PC though, modular parts that can easily be exchanged if anything malfunctions or I wish to add features later .
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(http://i.imgur.com/hk0Py.jpg)
The first step is adding what is called "headers" to what will become the sides, these are thin pieces of wood that cover the edges of wood. As per suggestion, MDF is being used, due to costs and that it can be shaped well. Attaching headers to the MDF will fill two purposes, for one it will cover the MDF edges, which tend to develop a different texture when painted. Secondly, it adds strength as well.
(http://i.imgur.com/6Fg7q.jpg)
Next is cutting specific grooves for PC-ports to sit in to, these PC ports shall be wired to a connector that attaches to the Neo Geo board. By using a cable and a self built joystick, it will work like older consoles, such as a SNES. To cut these grooves, a specific tool is used, called a pin router. This tool relies on a template that the pin follows, while the cutter above cuts what is needed, it actuates up and down via a foot operated lever. Pictured above is the first template, its very rough and will prove to be the basis of the final template.
(http://i.imgur.com/wBKzl.jpg)
After the pin follows the rough template, we can see it cuts a perfectly formed hole that our PC-Port fits nicely and snuggly in.
(http://i.imgur.com/eVnQC.jpg)
Finally, the exact template is taken and used on the machine, you can see how such a thing operated better in this. The final template is attached below while the router a top cuts.
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(http://i.imgur.com/LrjHu.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jHOLf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/w7kfI.jpg)
Next the groove made is drilled through and chiseled square, this allows the pins to be accessible from the inside. Still, it is rather hard to reach, so a channel is made using a router once more. This time it is a hand held one that plunges down. Using a collar and sleeve, it allows once more for the use of a template. Pictured above shows the process and tools used.
(http://i.imgur.com/He74d.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3plow.jpg)
After this, and using yet again another router the back pannel for audio video and power is cut. This one differs, but serves a similar purpose to all those showed above. It has a bearing in the cutter that follows a template.
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(http://i.imgur.com/taod0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/En7MP.jpg)
Finally, some assembly can happen, this may not look much like the iconic ammo boxes, but it's starting to take shape. A panel was glued in and nailed in too at one side, since one side is only required to open so cartidges can be swapped obviously. A narrow and shallow channel was cut around the panel though so it mimics the look the other side will have since it is a door. Creating more of an illusion that both sides open
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Interesting Idea. Ill be watching ;D
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Cool. It's neat to see virtual items made real. Looks like you've got a nice workshop there.
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Really nice idea to make the unit look like a game item. I can't wait to see more progress on this build! :cheers:
Which Neo Geo model are you going to use?
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This is a very cool and refreshing idea. :cheers:
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More progress to show, the project is starting to come towards it's end; in regards to building the main unit. The joysticks shall come rather soon
(http://i.imgur.com/zGG6n2I.jpg)
More headers are attached to pieces that will become the build out of the boxes. It may seem obessive to do such a thing, but the finish will be much smoother since there will be no exposed MDF edges on the outside. Additionally, one header is made thicker than the others, since it will receive a round
over later.
(http://i.imgur.com/yIpBWiZ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/GJrjuIj.jpg)
Next, using the same template and pin router shown before, details are added to make it seem more like the concept art of the ammo case. 1/4'' thick hardboard makes an excellent thing to use for templates.
Which Neo Geo model are you going to use?
The board with be a MV-1B, the smallest of the units. Originally it was planned around a MV-1A, but the other board was chosen since it is smaller, allowing for better airflow.
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(http://i.imgur.com/dbyEfth.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/U2GZUhR.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/q8QmgOW.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RoOXJR6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/G1GPTtb.jpg)
Next, a very complex detail is added, this needed quite a few templates, and serious pondering about negative and positive space. The process is as follows, first, using hardboard, a circle is drilled with a hole saw, the pilot bit wasnt used to avoid the hole in the center. If you do this, make sure to clamp the piece very well, as it may catch or want to be thrown by the tool if caution isn't taken. More details are added to the template, and then its cut to make it lay where it will finally be.
The circle that the hole saw cuts was not discarded though, rather it was saved, and for a good reason. Due to the thickness of the drill, the circle made is slightly smaller, and a perfect offset to make an intentional gap. Simply gluing the circle template to a block is good enough for making the end result.
Finally, with care and a delicate hand, the offset piece is placed in.
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(http://i.imgur.com/EcMdeES.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MtAq0PC.jpg)
Finally, the last of the details can go on, these are mitered pieces with a chamfer profile on them. A trick that I learned from another saved quite some trouble as well. Make sure to do the profile on the inside of the miter first, before pieces are cut, otherwise it may be impossible to do later. Another tip passed on is to always mark what angle the cut should be and where your inside is, a bit of marking can save from any mistakes and wasted wood. With these attached though, the piece finally looks like the iconic ammo boxes from Metal Slug. There is still a debate whether or not the feet, shown in the first image of this thread, should be added. What may everybody's thoughts be on this detail?
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Not trying to rain on your project or anything but I'm curious, why didn't you just start your project off in a standard modular PC case? Would have been much easier.
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Looking really good sofar, I say add the feet to it
Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2
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Not trying to rain on your project or anything but I'm curious, why didn't you just start your project off in a standard modular PC case? Would have been much easier.
A PC case wasn't used due to the motherboard inside, it relies on game carts, and a PC case would be harder to open then say a simple hinged door. In addition, my metal working and fabricating skills are quite poor compared to woodworking. Although a PC case would give advantages, such as an easy placed power supply.
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Coming along nice. Can't wait to see it painted. :cheers:
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You really need to add the four feet and the two handles!
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You really need to add the four feet and the two handles!
I can deliver on one thing you say :lol
(http://i.imgur.com/Pdvi7oJ.jpg)
They're just temporarily attached with double sided tape currently. They still need to be cleaned of all saw marks and chamfered. They add a lot to the final look of the piece . Though I agree with the concensus that they needed to be added. Next to come will be the door and then the back panels for video connectors and a rear fan.
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that looks amazing bro, kudos. Are you going with a consolized MVS over an AES for any particular reason? My guess is price, but I havent looked up the going rate for MVS/AES in ages.
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Oooooh, will be following this one. Love the idea, and it fits the theme very well!
And the fact you're using proper hardware is even better!
How's the weight so far?
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It looks great with the side feet, but it will not be complete without the two handles on the top! ;)
that looks amazing bro, kudos. Are you going with a consolized MVS over an AES for any particular reason? My guess is price, but I havent looked up the going rate for MVS/AES in ages.
There's the price of the motherboard to consider but also the price of the carts. As far as I know, MVS carts are a lot cheaper than AES carts.
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Looking great! :applaud:
You really need to add the four feet and the two handles!
I can deliver on one thing you say
Not sure the size you're working with, but this style of handle looks like it would come close to drawing...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276406)
Maybe something like this for the back handle...
(http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/productimages/s3/555-13386.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/J0yOFUh.jpg)
Its been quite some time since I've updated and much happened between as well. I've added the front handle, one that matches the concept art closely, I've started paint, and I've finished and assembled the door. The door uses European hinges in an inset fashion, many people think they're hard, but they can actually be quite simple. Merely use the right bit for drilling the hole and assure that your bottom is flat. One thing that helps immensely is to find the guide for your hinges from the manufacture, sometimes the hinges will even come with a small paper template for layout.
The rear handle is missing still since I have to fabricate it, there's nothing that closely matches it in most hardware stores. It is rather simple in design, so it can be made with a rotary tool and files. This handle will fit in the the recess I cut in the back, which was done in a similar fashion to the fan and I/O panel cutout which is a router guide and a template collar.
Finally there is still more painting left, but I need to wait for the paint to properly cure before I can put painters tape on to mask certain parts, hence the iconic "H" missing on the side and black missing on some areas as well.
that looks amazing bro, kudos. Are you going with a consolized MVS over an AES for any particular reason? My guess is price, but I havent looked up the going rate for MVS/AES in ages.
Yes, the MVS hardware was chosen because of its cheaper prices for games . For instance, I just purchased Metal Slug 2 for a mere $40 on the MVS. It is much less expensive when compared to Metal Slug 2 on the AES, which can command prices of $1000 and upwards.
Oooooh, will be following this one. Love the idea, and it fits the theme very well!
And the fact you're using proper hardware is even better!
How's the weight so far?
Quite heavy! I would estimate it's about 10lbs, and that is merely the case; sans hardware
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I can't wait to see this thing completed, very nice progress so far! :cheers:
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10lbs aint bad. it looks great so far. Assuming that's a base coat?
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Anymore work done on this?
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The back handle looks like the "perfect pushup" or one of its knock offs
http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Fitness-PP6105-Pushup-Original/dp/B000KDM3BG (http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Fitness-PP6105-Pushup-Original/dp/B000KDM3BG)
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Bump? :dunno