Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: notbillcosby on December 01, 2012, 10:47:02 pm
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I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum! Feel free to slap me on the wrist. This isn't a directly arcade-related question, but it pertains to my cabinet and i know for a fact that *someone* here can answer this in about two sentences.
I've wired a new switch into a power strip. The power strip is going to turn on everything in my cabinet when it's flipped on, and i disconnected the leads from the switch in the strip itself and ran them to the terminals on the toggle switch I have mounted in my cabinet. It works.
Here's the question: Does it matter what gauge of wire I'm using to extend this switch? Is any sort of amperage (is that right??) flowing through this part of the wire that I should be worried about? I don't want to use something too thin and start a fire. Thanks!
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Check the wire gauge for the power strip and the extension cord. Most homes have 12 gauge wiring for the receptacle circuits. The power strip and extension cord should have a minimum of 12 gauge wire. This keeps the wire gauge constant, and minimizes points of high resistance.
Since the power strip is and extension of your house wiring it must have a minimum wire gauge if you extend it to add a switch of the same gauge.
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Hey NBC,
Pretty sure you already checked it, but is the switch itself rated for 10 Amps AC?
Scott
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Thanks for the replies! These are all good points that I didn't think about. I'm used to working on small, passive stuff like electric guitars :-p
The switch reads:
3A 250V
6A 125V
1/4 HP
120-240V
AC ONLY
None of that spells 10 amps to me. I've got a good electronics supply store locally that would have what I need what do I ask for?
And, does it matter if the wire I use is solid core or stranded? Maybe that isn't even an option at 12 gauge...?
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What size/shape/style of switch do you want?
Post a related pic and the size/shape/material/thickness for the hole you want to mount it in and we should be able to find something that will work for you.
Illuminated rocker switch
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-4788629w345.jpg) (http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2266162w345.jpg) (http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1-12410177w345.jpg)
Rocker Switch
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160432w345.jpg) (http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160434w345.jpg) (http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1-12440590w345.jpg)
Toggle Switch
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160403w345.jpg)
Latching pushbutton
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1-12429758w345.jpg)
Scott
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The one in there right now is just a metal toggle very similar to the one shown here. The latching pushbutton is pretty sweet too, but this switch is hidden on top of the cab, so whatever's cheapest is probably the name of the game for me. There's a round quarter-sized hole cut in the cab, and the switch is mounted to a piece of metal that is screwed into the wood.
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How about this one (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12710603&retainProdsInSession=1&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032230) for an inexpensive option?
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1-12444457w345.jpg)
Use a metal piece to mount the switch the same way.
Scott
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6 Amps should cut it if it is just for your mame cabinet, it shouldn't even top much more than 3 amps at power up unless you are running some serious aftermarket lights or amplifiers.
Thanks for the replies! These are all good points that I didn't think about. I'm used to working on small, passive stuff like electric guitars :-p
The switch reads:
3A 250V
6A 125V
1/4 HP
120-240V
AC ONLY
None of that spells 10 amps to me. I've got a good electronics supply store locally that would have what I need what do I ask for?
And, does it matter if the wire I use is solid core or stranded? Maybe that isn't even an option at 12 gauge...?