Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: threedprof on November 11, 2012, 06:13:06 pm
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Hey everyone, I'm new to the community but i've already built two full scale arcade machines. Time to put the shrinking ray to my fave game of all time...Tron! Inspired by Le Chuck's fantastic work, this thread will follow my progress, however, i don't have a full fledged plan so updates will be very slow. The goal is to recreate a perfectly scaled...Functional...arcade, as possible. I started off with a used PSP and got to work on adding the Mame4all emu and FINALLY got Tron to run but, wow! It's slooooooow and there doesn't appear to be an option to correct the screen orientation :-\
:applaud:
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Here's a rough 3D mockup
After the mockup is complete I'll model the control handle to scale and send it over to Shapeways.com to have it 3D printed along with any other miscellaneous parts i might need.
i'll post pics when it's complete
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for the sideart I ordered:
http://www.laserinkjetlabels.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=8511-0-CLEAR25 (http://www.laserinkjetlabels.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=8511-0-CLEAR25)
to use as little printer ink as possible. Tried finding some UV reactive inks but it looks like i'll have to paint that on the sideart sticker myself. In the meantime i've downloaded as much artwork as I can and will be cleaning up any, if necessary
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Welcome aboard, Threedprof.
How "micro" are you thinking about making this?
Seems like the sticking point will be the triggerstick. Maybe using a Grayhill -04A (http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/datasheets/bm/GRAYHILL_INC/70217130.pdf) base with an upper handle printed by shapeways.
If you can't find the plain 04A base, the keycap version 04A-K01 (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70217130) has a removable cap.
The battop version 04A-B01 is non-removable.
Scott
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Wow!! You must've read my mind. I was just posting for ideas on controller bases! I've finished modeling the handle and can make it available on shapeways for anyone looking to do the same. The question now is how to get a tiny trigger into the handle.
Welcome aboard, Threedprof.
How "micro" are you thinking about making this?
Thank you for the welcome and I'm following in Le Chucks footsteps. It'll be 1/6 scale. It's 12" tall.
Thanks again for the callout!
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I think the answer is here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117874.msg1268992.html#msg1268992) in Le Chuck's SW Micro build thread.
Radio Shack P/N 275-0008 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3190382)
(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-4997042w345.jpg)
Scott
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Awesome! I'll have to get some ordered to check dimensions. May have to alter the stick design to accommodate it. Right now the joystick is roughly 2" tall. I'll go out and buy a few of those triggers tomorrow, since they stock them at my local 'Shack and i'll mod the stick accordingly. Should take more than a half day to get it over to Shapeways for purchasing. everything in the 3D model is to proportionate so WYSIWYG.
You've been a huge help!
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Since there's no way to drill out the middle of the joystick shaft, how do you plan to route the switch wires for the trigger?
Also forgot to mention this method (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,122105.msg1295833.html#msg1295833) for attaching wires to the joystick without soldering.
Scott
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the joystick will be hollow and i'll have to figure out a fastening system. I'll know more once i pick up the switches tomorrow. I'd like to figure out the screen also. The PSP Mame4all doesn't seem to be cutting it. is there another Emu that will allowing for screen rotation?
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To clarify, I meant to state that if you use the grayhill 04a joystick base (green in pic #2) you won't be able to drill through the center to route the wires like the original Tron stick -- center pin = ground.
(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr155/vonjett/Mini%20Gauntlet/GauntletCPUS.jpg)
I also meant to ask how you intended to get the wires from the handle (light blue) to the underside of the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=128443.0;attach=271730;image)
Scott
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ooooooo I see what you mean now. Thanks for clarifying. My initial thought is to route it out from the bottom of the joystick and out through the CP opening for the joystick. I'll likely come across a more elegant solution as the project moves forward.
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Welcome! Nice to see another tackling the micro problem set. I've learned something from every one that has been posted.
I think you may run into problems with the PSP and scale because the screen is not a 4:3 and that system doesn't lend itself to TRON very well but don't let that stop you. Mine is stalled currently because of work, other projects, and then control compatibility. I'm pretty sold on converting both the TRON and the Gauntlet builds from GP Caanoos to R-Pi builds. I'll end up corded (acceptable) but should be able to keep the same ratios. Can't wait to see what you do with this and I'm interested in seeing what you've come up with for the handle.
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Thanks, Le Chuck! It's so cool to be surrounded by like-minded individuals. Hopefully, i'll have plenty of positive info/stuff to add to the community.
Went out and bought those micro switches..these suckers are miniscule! now with calipers in hand i'm going to get them shoehorned into the joystick. Should have a 3D result by EOD.
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http://www.robotshop.com/adafruit-mini-joystick-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos (http://www.robotshop.com/adafruit-mini-joystick-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos)
thoughts on this as a potential joystick?
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http://www.robotshop.com/adafruit-mini-joystick-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos (http://www.robotshop.com/adafruit-mini-joystick-sensor.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=jos)
thoughts on this as a potential joystick?
It's analogue not digital. What is your scale? Mine is a 1:6 and the one that Scott linked to is what I'm using. There are larger ones available that still give digital 4 way or 8 way outputs depending on your scale. I'd go with one of those. Hacking a PSP means that your direction buttons will probably need to be hacked to the buttons and the spinner will need to be hacked to the analogue control stick. Fire is hacked to a shoulder button I'd think.
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Good to know before I pulled the trigger on it. My build is following yours pretty closely. The height of the cab will be 12" tall
(2) Grayhill micro joysticks have been ordered. Never know which can ill start on next :D
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About the only other "joystick" I've seen that might be useful at this scale is this:
Thumbstick (http://www.arcadeshop.de/Miscellaneous-Thumbstick-yellow_452.html) from arcadeshop.de
(http://www.arcadeshop.de/images/thumbs_gr/arcade-thumbstick-y.jpg)
Scott
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Can't...think...anymoooooozzzzzZZzZZzz. 3:30 AM...time to call it a night
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Looking good. I'd settle on a joystick and get one before having the handles printed. The Greyhill is a single piece handle to sensor plate unit and has a girthier shaft so you'd need to account for it. You may also want to cheat that switch area up a bit more in the housing and look at an exterior channel for the wires since most joys (Greyhill for sure) aren't center thread able. All that said I totally want one of your handles. :applaud:
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Thanks for the input, Le chuck. Ya it's going to take some experimenting when the Greyhill arrives. For now I'm working with the measurements that were in their .PDF. Either way there's more adjustments that I want to do before getting a test piece printed. I'm also making other scale items like a coin door, shroud, and spinner top. If you can think of other parts let me know be I can get started on the modeling.
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Oh the agony of waiting for parts to arrive :hissy:
on to productive things like...Doing a little uprezzing of the side artwork. Worth the trouble? I think so :dizzy:
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added more to the MicroCade Tron project. Fleshing out the dimensions and massaging the sticker sheet to match the proportions...time consuming (Good thing I have a braindead job!). Even found a better solution to my tron emu problem! seems iMame, on the iPods, runs tron perfectly! and even better the screen is close to 1:1. Not only that but i may have even found a solution to the spinner issue, via bluetooth controls :cheers: More on that later...for now here's some new pixels for your eyeballs
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Looking forward to seeing this move forward. Good stuff. :)
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That looks awesome, will be following this to see how it turns out :)
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Looks like the controller is Hollow and I can drill through it to get the trigger wiring threaded through. Wasn't tough to take apart and reassemble.
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Looks like the controller is Hollow and I can drill through it to get the trigger wiring threaded through. Wasn't tough to take apart and reassemble.
I looked at the same deal and decided to route the wiring down the front and not bother threading but if you have a small enough gauge it should work. I look forward to seeing how it comes out.
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In thinking about keeping the wires exposed I worry about potential wire breakage from work hardening. I'll have to find a very thin gauge drill bit as I managed to score som 30 ga jacketed wire, from radio shack.
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Finished modeling the shroud. Sending it over to Shapeways.com to get it verified. The other stainless steel fasteners came in as well as allen wrenches.
WOW! The cost of the shroud is going to run me almost the same price as the real 1:1 shroud...how authentic do i want to be?
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And it begins.
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:applaud:
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finally done with the joystick model and it now being printed by Shapeways.com They were the most reasonable in price. I'm going to hold off on printing the shroud since it's so expensive.
Added:
- Locator pins
- Capture pins for the SPST radioshack micro trigger switch
- Anti-Rotation lug pattern for the Grayhill joystick shaft
Might hollow out the top incase someone decides to make a Discs of Tron micro and needs a deflector button
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finally done with the joystick model and it now being printed by Shapeways.com They were the most reasonable in price. I'm going to hold off on printing the shroud since it's so expensive.
Looking great Threedprof! It looks to me like the shroud wouldn't be so difficult to build. You could use the same stuff as Bender did. Model maker's styrene sheets will make this look professional enough.
Jigenjuke
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Nice idea on the styrene. I might consider that. I'm going to try polycarbonate and shape it with some mild heat, too. I will definitely lose some finer details either way.
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I made my shroud out of mdf. It's just simple geometric shapes so you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it done in whatever material you choose. One measurement I need is the back window in the shroud, I still need to get that cut if you have it. I also need the art that goes around the back window and the art of the black light cover if you have those.
How much is the handle running you if you don't mind sharing?
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I made my shroud out of mdf. It's just simple geometric shapes so you shouldn't have too much trouble getting it done in whatever material you choose. One measurement I need is the back window in the shroud, I still need to get that cut if you have it. I also need the art that goes around the back window and the art of the black light cover if you have those.
How much is the handle running you if you don't mind sharing?
Ya, I agree that it could be carved and done with broader strokes, as it were. Having scrutinized it pretty closely there's quite a bit of detail between the grill work and gussets. the back window also consists of some pretty interesting angles (It's not flat across) I wanted to capture those details as closely as I could. Printing one copy and maybe making a mold out of it might be the better way. In fact, i'll just go ahead and order it.
The Joysticks are much more reasonable at $6 and change a piece.
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Wow!! Vinyl is totally the way to go instead of paint! This is awesome
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Control Panel:
Routed out a pocket for the joystick base to fit in. A little post router carving was necessary to get a tight fit. Still thinking of a way to capture the joystick and hold it in place. Initial thoughts are some kind of strapping, since I want to make the cabinet serviceable.
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Parts layout
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Assembly has started. My first regret is using flathead wood screws. Found some allen head replacements and will swap them once they arrive. If I build more of these I'd like to figure out a better way to engineer the cab for convenient maintenance.
I'm still researching the best way to implement the controls, either a scavenged WiiMote or an radionics Bluetooth interface. Using the iPod turned out to be a good call, so far due to their speed and compact size (although it feels a bit like cheating!). It'd be awesome if there were a way to dump the entire game into a small microprocessor, now that the tech is available.
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Assembly has started. My first regret is using flathead wood screws. Found some allen head replacements and will swap them once they arrive. If I build more of these I'd like to figure out a better way to engineer the cab for convenient maintenance.
I'm still researching the best way to implement the controls, either a scavenged WiiMote or an radionics Bluetooth interface. Using the iPod turned out to be a good call, so far due to their speed and compact size (although it feels a bit like cheating!). It'd be awesome if there were a way to dump the entire game into a small microprocessor, now that the tech is available.
Hey there ThreedProf, if you wanna keep the cost of the unit down and maybe order the shroud anyway, don't go out and buy a wii controller in town. Order it from DealsExtreme
http://dx.com/c/video-games-699/wii-601/remote-controllers-619 (http://dx.com/c/video-games-699/wii-601/remote-controllers-619)
They are pretty cheap, but shipping takes awhile. If you order it now while you are in the midst of building it would probably make it to you by the time you need it.
Looking good!
Jigenjuke
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More parts are beginning to trickle in.
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:applaud:
Badass!
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Badass indeed! :afro: Le Chuck, the Joystick should be coming in around monday.
forgot to post a pic of the lighting module
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3D coin door. next in line to be sent off to the 3D printer
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Threedprof,
Awesome! What did you pay for the tron shroud? What is the coin door gonna run?
Love to hear about that. Also looking forward to seeing this complete.
Jigenjuke
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Threedprof,
Awesome! What did you pay for the tron shroud? What is the coin door gonna run?
Love to hear about that. Also looking forward to seeing this complete.
Jigenjuke
Thanks! The shroud came to $87 + shipping...getting another quote from a different 3D printer, currently. The coin door was significantly cheaper at $14 + shipping. comes with coin chutes and dummy coin mechs. Mock quarters will be handmade that fit the coin chutes. Again, I've sent all the parts to a local print shop and we'll see if I can get them cheaper
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joystick came it and it was a perfect fit!!! Math is good. Pics for your pleasure. I have a second one on hand right now, if anyone would like to buy it. The coin door kit is on the way, also
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some of the artwork applied
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That tron stick is so fudging awesome! :applaud:
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Thanks very much! It's always a joy to see a virtual object come to life in the physical world. I'd love to get them reprinted in a blue transparent resin. For whatever reason it's ridiculously expensive to do so. Could be something I did incorrectly in the export process so I'll try again soon. In the meantime, if someone has any thoughts on how I should fasten all the panels together I'm all ear. I've tried little wooden blocks glued in but they can't take much stress. I'm thinking tiny plastic corner braces of some kind. A trip to Home Depot is in order.
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I never though about combining 3-d printing and the arcade hobby. This is genius! I have a friend who has a really nice one he built and definitely going to be going over there to play with the thing. Opens a ton more of options when building miniature machines.
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It sure does! I was kicking aroun ideas and searching all over the place for micro parts when it hit me to just model and print them! Turned out to be the better option than hand fabricating.
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In the meantime, if someone has any thoughts on how I should fasten all the panels together I'm all ear. I've tried little wooden blocks glued in but they can't take much stress. I'm thinking tiny plastic corner braces of some kind. A trip to Home Depot is in order.
I used CA glue (crazy glue) on the Donkey Kong Micro and it's held up extremely well, in fact when I went back to change something I had to saw it apart because the glue was stronger than the MDF
threedprof: on an overall note this project looks amazing! It's so cool to see the 3D stuff printed, that shroud looks better than the one on my full size original!
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It's coming along well. I've created a bunch of 90 deg. acrylic mounts and will be able to assemble/disassemble at will. I thought about making it permanently assembled but worried about accessing the internals and destroying the cabinet. The solution has to provide a strong sturdy joint. I'll try 'em out and report back, of course.
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I received the Coin door kits today! While inspecting the contents, I discovered there are missing parts *sad panda* I've written shapeways to find out if i can get replacements. then I discovered another issue...didn't leave enough clearance so the frame and door stuck together. Had to cut them apart so now it looks hacked!! I've redesigned the model so the parts have more clearance and also the tiny bits are connected so they'll be easier to find!
These are good guinea pig parts to run a fitment test and try out the dye/sanding process.
For now, here's the pics
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I've opened up a shop on Shapeways.com which has all the 3D printed parts I've posted here. Feel free to browse around :)
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/ThreeDprof (http://www.shapeways.com/shops/ThreeDprof)
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Got around to dying the shroud and coin door. Not much of an update, i know. Still waffling around with how to get everything buttoned up.
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pics of the new coin door with coin mechs and slots
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Just found this thread. My god this rocks! Tron was one of my favorite games in the day and it's awesome to see the love and attention going into this. Hate to say it though, this mini has already cost you more than my full size MAME did. Of course, yours LOOKS way better than my ugly beast.
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Didn't notice this build before... It really deserves the "micro" name, an amazing build so far and a good example of integrating 3D printing into a design! :cheers:
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Amazeballs! :applaud:
I have two completed mini's and another one on the drawing board but the build quality on this is putting mine to shame.
Time to up my standards methinks.
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Progress Bump? This deserves to be completed. Get to it ;D
Jigenjuke