Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: meherenow on October 21, 2012, 02:38:03 pm
-
Hi all, delurking here once again.
After spending many fruitless months chasing my RAM Controls Star Wars yoke, I finally got it a few years back and well, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit its just lay in the box ever since (I bring it out now and again for a loving look at :laugh: ).
Anyway, I have a joiner mate who owes me a favour so I wonder if anyone has some nice ready made diagrams for a suitable yoke housing for use with MAME. I'm not looking to attach it to anything, just have it sitting on the stool in front of the couch so I can enjoy some MAME Star Wars on the big telly! So some kind of boxy thing that can be weighted down with sandbags etc would be good.
I'd be much obliged if anyone could point me in the right direction!
Cheers in advance.
-
Here's a mounting template (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=121357.0;attach=187211).
Scott
-
Here are the almost finished plans that I've been working on. I'm using 12" x 36" x 5/8" (http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/shelves-shelving-units/decorative-wall-mounted-shelving/12x36-black-pre-finished-shelf/p-1482161-c-12664.htm) and 12" x 24" x 5/8" (http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/shelves-shelving-units/decorative-wall-mounted-shelving/12x24-black-pre-finished-shelf/p-1482130-c-12664.htm) black shelving from Menards. NOTE: All faces and edges are finished.
The front upright is 4" and the front angled part is 8".
To cut the back angled part to the correct length, cut the front angled part first and put a piece of the shelving flat against the fence.
I'm using hinges to join the uprights to the angled parts because 135 degree brackets aren't very easy to find.
Side pieces are cut to fit inside/under after the front and back uprights and angles are fully assembled.
If you follow the cut plan, you'll end up with only finished edges exposed, including on the bottom -- no need for t-molding.
The numbers on the cut plan indicate the order to make the cuts. Narrow rectangles are a side view showing whether the cut is straight or at a 22.5 degree angle.
Bonus round: Add a Neutrik USB feed thru (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70088377#tab=Overview), an unpowered USB hub, and Degenatron's AVR encoder (https://sites.google.com/site/degenatrons/controller-interfaces/usb-keyboard-encoder/resources) and you can easily add any admin buttons desired to make this fully standalone.
Scott
EDIT: Just noticed that the cut plan doesn't include a cut #11 to make the bottom fit inside the sides/front/back. Add nutplates to the lower l-brackets and you can have a removable baseplate similar to the one at the end of this post (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121927.msg1293875.html#msg1293875).
-
Many thanks, I'll give those a shot, cheers!
-
I wonder if anyone knows the difference in angle of the mounted controller when comparing a stand up machine with the cockpit version.
I'm thinking I would like to recreate a more "sit down" experience (as the cockpit machine was in my local arcade as a boy). I've always found the stand up yoke to be on too much of a gradient?
Can anyone post the magic numbers? :)
Cheers in advance!
-
Just a little bump.
Anyone know the correct angle for the cockpit machine?
Cheers again.