Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum

Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: wcndave on October 13, 2012, 10:12:25 am

Title: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: wcndave on October 13, 2012, 10:12:25 am

What glue do people use here?  Do you only glue the slot, or the whole wood edge?  How difficult really is it to get round 90deg corners?  (might have to test out the lastone)

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: shponglefan on October 13, 2012, 10:16:13 am

None.  T-molding is not designed to be glued.

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: wcndave on October 13, 2012, 10:42:13 am

Interesting.  Have to head out and try now!

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: Well Fed Games on October 13, 2012, 11:20:54 am

How To Replace Arcade 3/4" T-Moulding (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24sh4-pViO4#ws)

For corners you want to use snips to cut the part that goes in the wood... and I have used hot glue with good success.

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: PL1 on October 13, 2012, 10:38:50 pm

Quote from: wcndave on October 13, 2012, 10:12:25 am

What glue do people use here?  Do you only glue the slot, or the whole wood edge?

Most of the time I see someone on the forums talking about using glue, they are dealing with a miscut or badly worn t-molding slot.

Glue does not stick very well to the t-molding material, but the right kind of glue can fill in the gaps, stick to the wood, and harden to provide a surface for the t-molding barbs to wedge against.


Scott

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: wcndave on October 14, 2012, 03:30:16 am

Thanks guys, i had assumed it was a press in fit and would need some glue.

I see now it's a "tap in with hammer" fit. (actually i might try a laminate roller)

I tried some corners, 90deg seems tricky, and rounding corners after the fact (even with a template) was not perfect, so something for next time....

It would also seem that with such a tight fit, that taking the moulding out will wear the barbs and reduce the fit.

Thanks for all the help,

Dave

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: wcndave on October 14, 2012, 03:52:54 pm

Cut the slot ok, noticed that the underside of the moulding has a curve.

One can either leave that curve, however then i feel it's not secure, or force it all the way down so the barb is fully bedded.

In the second case, there are some effects, that i wanted to check are normal:

- the outer curve becomes almost flat
- the pressure required, means that sometimes the spine becomes visible after a tap with a hammer.
- the pressure required means you're left with a series of bumps if you run your finger along the edge after installation. I have used a laminate roller which smooths most of them out, however i just wanted to check this all sounds normal.

Thanks

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: Fast63 on October 14, 2012, 04:35:52 pm

This is a question I was going to ask as well as the tmoulding I bought had a very thin tongue, I couldn't find a cheap enough cutter to do the job so just got a cheap one from eBay which was to thick but like I said cheap! Lol, I then had the task of finding a glue that would do the job, I started looking at contact adhesive but the stuff I bought seemed to have gone off already so I ended up using mitre mate, quite tedious but worked really well. Saying this if I built another one I would just get the correct cutter/tbead, but it helped me out of a bad situation.

Title: Re: T-moulding glue-up
Post by: Mental on October 15, 2012, 11:41:19 am

I find for the best results, use a white rubber mallet and get it flat as possible. Otherwise it's hard to get it consistent. Afterwards I give it a polish with a micro-fibre cloth. It smooths out the tiny scratches and scuffs very nicely.