Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Terr1 on September 23, 2012, 09:04:30 am
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Hey
I'm trying to create a 2 player MAME prototype control panel, before I try to do the real deal. I want 6 buttons per player.
I have a 60 cm (23.622 inches) in length and 25 cm (9.84252 inches) in height MDF wood panel, so I guess that leaves 30cm (11.811 inches) per player.
I have been directed to this button layout page before:
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html)
I really don't know which layout type I should go for, I was looking at something like this:
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega2_m.png (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega2_m.png)
But maybee a bit more spacing between the joystick and buttons will be nice?
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/hybrid36_m.png (http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/hybrid36_m.png)
I want something that curves a bit, so it's more ergonomic to the human hand.
1. Do anyone have any tips regarding which layout to start with? Whats the most used standard layout?
2. When drilling the button holes, the best method is printing out the layout and mark the drilling points using a pencil through the paper?
3. When I found a layout, any tips on where to place the layout on the panel? Here I mean heightwise, if there is any standard, or should you just pick whatever height lets your hand rest on the panel?
The easiest is printing out a diagram and just make drill holes into the paper layout?
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Best thing to do is grab a piece of cardboard and do a layout that way first. For spacing, just markup where your hands naturally rest gripping the joystick and buttons.
Regarding ergonomics, I've found only the first row of buttons needs to be slightly lower. Rows two and three should be the same height. Reason is that when your hand is resting on buttons, the fingers actually rest in a mostly straight line. Usually the index finger is a little lowr, but the second and third finger end up being the same height. Try it with a piece of paper.
As far as drilling, you have it right. Just print out the layout, tape it in place, use something sharp to mark the centers of the buttons/joystick, then drill it out.
For height on the panel itself, I find leaving at least 4 inches of space from the lowest button to the bottom of the panel is adequate.
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Thanks alot for your responses.. Means alot to find good forums where you don't get flamed for asking newbie questions.
I think I will go for the SEGA2 Layout, already have this on a cartboard layout, and I like it.
I will add about 4 inches, it seems like decent support.
Thanks again :)
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I have the curved layout on my cabinet and really wish I could get the standard streetfighter layout without messing up a really expensive panel.
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Just a side question..
I got Zippy joysticks like these:
http://www.ozstick.com.au/img/js02_top.jpg (http://www.ozstick.com.au/img/js02_top.jpg)
Will I be able to blind mount them from underneath on a 16mm MDF woodpanel?
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Just a side question..
I got Zippy joysticks like these:
http://www.ozstick.com.au/img/js02_top.jpg (http://www.ozstick.com.au/img/js02_top.jpg)
Will I be able to blind mount them from underneath on a 16mm MDF woodpanel?
From Ozstick website:
"In addition, these have a longer shaft that the JS01 which makes them preferable to use in a thick timber panel."
JS02's are the long shaft zippyys, they will work fine in a 16mm panel.
From Ozstick website:
"For mounting joysticks into a timber panel, we prefer the 'blind mounting' method which involves screwing the mounting plate of the joystick to the underside of the control panel. This leaves the top of your control panel 'clean' and it means your hand can rest on the panel without it rubbing across bolt heads. We use 6g 12mm Pan Head screws for this task.
For metal panels, or timber panels thinner than 12mm, we recommend using our Joystick Mounting Bolts which appear further down this page"
You'll be able to blind mount inserts like these (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70&products_id=317) in 16mm with no problem. (Didn't see the similar product on the Ozstick site. :dunno)
(http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/images/medium/JMK_MED.jpg)
Scott
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Ah ok.
That site was just random, to show the pics. I'm not from australia hehe.. Ill try to find a kit like this in an EU shop. thanks :)
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Ah ok.
That site was just random, to show the pics. I'm not from australia hehe.. Ill try to find a kit like this in an EU shop. thanks :)
Hold on, then. If you didn't get it from Ozstick, you might have the short shaft zippyy which will leave the ball almost touching the panel.
The distance from the bottom of the threads to the shoulder of the pivot is ~30mm on the short shaft and ~45mm on the long shaft. Remove dust washer and balltop to measure.
Ultimarc has the inserts here (http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.html).
(http://www.ultimarc.com/images/mountingkit.jpg)
Scott
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Ah I just checked I got the long shaft version ~45mm.
When mounted on my wood panel (5/8 inch / 16mm MDF), I got 60mm from the wood panel top to, the ball top. That should be okay right?
I actually found some thick short screws at my dads.. works great.. Just didn't think it was good enough.. but its rock sturdy :)
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Ah I just checked I got the long shaft version ~45mm.
When mounted on my wood panel (5/8 inch / 16mm MDF), I got 60mm from the wood panel top to, the ball top. That should be okay right?
I actually found some thick short screws at my dads.. works great.. Just didn't think it was good enough.. but its rock sturdy :)
The length will be fine. Long shafts are designed for mounting in 3/4" panels.
Hopefully the screws don't eventually work their way loose in that MDF.
The inserts have a larger surface area for the threads, so if the screws you are using now work loose, carefully drill the holes out and put in the inserts.
Scott
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2. When drilling the button holes, the best method is printing out the layout and mark the drilling points using a pencil through the paper?
There's a special tool for marking drill holes by punching dents into your medium that you can catch the drill bit on. Unfortunately, I don't remember what it's called. It's sort of like a spring-loaded ice pick that's about the size of a pen.
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2. When drilling the button holes, the best method is printing out the layout and mark the drilling points using a pencil through the paper?
There's a special tool for marking drill holes by punching dents into your medium that you can catch the drill bit on. Unfortunately, I don't remember what it's called. It's sort of like a spring-loaded ice pick that's about the size of a pen.
Its a center punch or a spring loaded center punch but I don' believe they're much needed when drilling wood, more for metal where the drill bit tends to walk.
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Thanks for the input..
I will be drilling holes in my prototype tomorrow.. I guess time will tell if the screws goes loose.
I will post some pics.. Even thou its newbie made hehe :)
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Knievel control panel 6-button layout is good. 35x15. I have the 7 button too.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_1637.jpg)
AJ
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Got the joystick and player buttons on the prototype control panel..
Now I just need the start buttons, insert coins, about 4 admins buttons and the paintjob :)
(http://linuxgeek.dk/pics/arcade/prototype-control-panel-version1.jpg)
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Now I just need the start buttons, insert coins, about 4 admins buttons and the paintjob :)
So what 4 admin buttons are you thinking of Escape, P (Pause), Enter, and Tab (Menu)? -- Ignore the mouse buttons.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=105869.0;attach=186767;image)
Do you want to use color or clear translucent LED buttons like these (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/led-pushbuttons/234-led-convex-arcade-pushbuttonwhite-led-convex-arcade-pushbutton.html) or these (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/led-pushbuttons/673-red-led-convex-arcade-pushbutton-black.html) with inserts?
(http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/234-572-thickbox/led-convex-arcade-pushbuttonwhite-led-convex-arcade-pushbutton.jpg) (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/1411-large/red-led-convex-arcade-pushbutton-black.jpg)
Scott
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Hmm will illuminated admin/coin buttons be ugly when having standard player buttons? cant really decide.
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Like beauty, ugly is in the eye of the beholder.
I use 12v LED buttons powered by 5v. They are not as bright like this, but I really like them.
Scott
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Hello,
Bit late to the thread, but that's almost the exact sized CP I've got and I was undecided on the two layouts too, and the same colours :o
After passing it around work we all (well, except one) decided on the hybrid as we thought the 63mm gap between joystick and buttons was too narrow and the 95mm gap would be better. What is your verdict after mounting them in the other way, does your joystick hand get in the way of the buttons?
Also, I'm undecided whether to squeeze in a trackball. Did you think about this or try it out for size?
Regarding buttons, I figured I'd use the shift option in MAME (player 1 button) and have minimal buttons on the CP (coin buttons hidden), so shift click button to pause, reset, etc. I was planning on parallel wiring some of the buttons to be mouse button 1/2, though I've no idea if this will work or not :)