Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: chucklepie on September 22, 2012, 12:12:17 pm
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Hello,
Seven years ago I decided to build a cabinet, I've just started :)
It's nowhere near as grand as the ones I've seen at this forum, but we each have our level of ability :P
It was going to be grand affair with beautiful sweeping curves but I figured my skills didn't match my ideas so went for something simpler. I ended up basing it on the 2 Player upright at Koenigs (http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/index.htm (http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/index.htm)) site.
The cabinet at Koenig's site seemed too small to me (1.5m by .6m) and the control panel not quite deep enough, so I increased it to about 6 foot tall (185cm), added 6cm to the width and 5cm to the depth.
My initial drawing was this:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_4OpDqzuRtA/UFeOHuUJJnI/AAAAAAAAACA/ow2Ke8ma-vQ/s1600/cab.jpg)
The bottom curve of the panel looked odd so I increased the radius from 75cm to 130cm and it's much better now.
Here's some close-ups
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R7bkt09QFVU/UFeOIwh2liI/AAAAAAAAACM/vhGvfvt5SIM/s1600/panelcurve.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfLWUisLHhA/UFeOIT8GVfI/AAAAAAAAACE/le7jj8Ff4Y4/s1600/control.jpg)
After making the first cut I traced it onto the second bit of wood, ensured the lines/curves were true and cut the shape out. I Discovered a 'feature' of jigsaws in that when you go round curves, no matter how slowly, the blade tends to flex (or maybe it's the hand) and you end up with a slight camber. Anyway using a straight edge (my set square - picture below) I was able to straighten the profile nicely with just a tiny use of the sander.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ki-6rLpGRc8/UFzc-pq8juI/AAAAAAAAACg/qelmtuOD3hg/s320/Cab+anti+camber.jpg)
Here's both bits of wood, I was a bit shocked that they matched perfectly bar sub-millimetre differences in one or two places.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H-VesH80KZc/UF3V9e26VjI/AAAAAAAAAC4/pQnZMQO0Ie8/s1600/Cab+two+as+one.jpg)
So far I've spent £63 on three bits of 2440x1220x18mm (that's 8'x4' 3/4" in old money) and 8 lengths of 2100x34x18mm (about 8' 1.5x.75").
I'm not quite sure on my direction for art/colour yet.
I'll update this post (or you can follow my exciting blog/build at http://negnegneg.blogspot.com (http://negnegneg.blogspot.com)).
Thanks for listening.
Also, I have a question. I bought a strip light (60cm 14watt) which with the flex just fits the width. The other size I can get is 30cm. Would this be sufficient to light the marquee or should I stick with the 60cm?
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No comments :'(
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You just needed that bump! Looking good!
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Hey welcome to the forums,
I like the profile of the sides. Congrats on getting started.
7 years waiting, man you must have made some changes to the plan in that time.
The cabs that guys are building now have really changed from what was being built 7 years ago.
Hope to see some more progress
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Looking good and welcome to the forum.
I was the same as you. Planned to do my build about 8 years ago and then it never happened. I am just finishing up my first build now :)
good luck.
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Cheers, thought being from the UK I was being ignored ;)
I've rounded the edges of the marquee and control panel now and I've found a place that does vinyl prints and backlit prints really cheaply, though I'm undecided as it looks quite hard putting full size stickers on (I may cop out and get a poster made and glue it on). In hindsight I should have made the marquee deeper as measuring for the speakers and to fit the screen at the angle I want has shown that it's a very small space for speakers.
I've made a post elsewhere on buying router bits as it's just impossible finding a 1/16th slotted router bit over here (at a decent price) so I may just end up rounding the edges and paininting it to look like t-molding.
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I like the cab shape. Do you have any color schemes or design in mind?
How much is the slot cutter going to cost to get? Rounding it would be perfectly fine - it's just going to be a bit more durable if you go with t-molding (and look a touch more authentic).
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Cheers, thought being from the UK I was being ignored ;)
Nice to see another UK member. Don't worry, they're quite nice to us.
We can swap tales about B&Q and the price of petrol ;)
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if you get your t-molding from t-molding.com they sell the slot cutter as well. Thats where I got mine.
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We can swap tales about B&Q and the price of petrol
Check my blog (bottom of first post), I've got a post on B&Q already ;)
As for the router bit, the cheapest I could find one was about £40. In the USA they are $14 on Amazon, however postage triples that.
I haven't decided on art or colours yet but probably chrome T-molding and the marquee retainer clips and control panel edging in chrome 18mm square aluminium.
For the side art I'm undecided, but I want nothing game specific.
One idea I'm toying with is a marquee similar to the logo of my (and others) website but change the word to 'retrocade' and the graphics to arcade characters not 8-bit Spectrum characters (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=122792.0;attach=269183;image)
Then tying in the control panel with maybe the swirl and a simply gradient colour and the kick plate to be in black with the rest of the inside but with a few placed graphics of characters.
Another couple of ideas is one based A representation of the 'big bang' (for the side art) but shooting out from the singularity is sprites from the arcades, possibly time-lined - e.g. closest being things like a space invader, a galaxian and onwards to pacman and donkey kong, Metal Slug, etc).
Another is the Activision stylised graphics of the explorers club (and game covers like Megamania, laser blast, etc
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Yesterday I got started with the next step and attached all the batons ready to 'simply' attach the rest of the MDF to form the cabinet. After meticulous measuring everything seems perfect (alignment of the batons on both sides), just need a little sanding on some batons on one side to get rid of half a millimetre or so.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T1ieHJPxhwM/UGjD3T8YijI/AAAAAAAAAHU/EiEgniBSZi8/s1600/cab+wing+wood.JPG)
I've been trying to figure out the mounting of my control panel (it's flush mounted inside the cabinet, so allowing for hinging is proving difficult). This is my first stab at a solution:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AqbXlbucnG0/UGi-QlPchnI/AAAAAAAAAGY/QO64VEwZQH4/s1600/control+panel+design.jpg)
I posted some mockups to friends on the colour scheme (I don't think I'll be able to put on a full sized vinyl), the votes seem to be a kind of neo-geo red.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TTNZeiq909o/UGi_NV_SrTI/AAAAAAAAAGg/I7oGJznkCII/s1600/desktop.jpg)
I'm thinking of using black T-molding with a chrome infill as some of my edges/joints will be aluminium square edging.
For the side art I really need some inspiration and all I can come up with so far is the monster from Space Invaders....
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For the side art I really need some inspiration and all I can come up with so far is the monster from Space Invaders....
For inspiration, try thumbing through the Arcade Art Library (http://arcadeartlibrary.com/arcade_art/), Arcade Vector Graphics (http://vectorlib.free.fr/), and Joymonkey's site (http://www.coinopart.com/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=26).
Scott
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Thanks, I've been looking and there's some good stuff there :)
I did a tiny bit of work last night and made the base (as that'll be the first thing to attach). The wheels will be 5mm below the bottom of the cabinet so it'll wheel around nicely but won't be obviously visible.
'Top' facing the inside of the cabinet.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j-bSNtUBmAU/UGtZhl4Z_oI/AAAAAAAAAIc/nv3Au85wOCE/s1600/Base1.jpg)
'Bottom' touching the ground.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5YG3gZJhsic/UGtZaeqn_AI/AAAAAAAAAIU/9WsiKiGZ5VQ/s1600/Cab2.jpg)
Realised a minor issue last night in that I can't easily get in to drill/screw as the batons are only 18mm wide.
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Welcome to the forums and great work starting the cabinet. Jig saws will do that to ya. The best luck I've had avoiding that is to use a sharp/new blade and let the jig saw "pull" you instead of pushing it. Don't forget the best way to get the two sides perfect is using a router with a flush trim cut bit. I realize you might not have that but it works wonders.
Keep trucking along!
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Tonight I attached the base to one side, squared it all up then added the kick-plate, top half of the rear and the other side. There weren't any real issues other than it took a bit to get it all square, but that was probably due to having nothing spanning the width (other than the base) to stop it from twisting (and my lack of tools such as decent clamps - I had to make do with bits of wood screwed in temporarily at various places :D). Pictures attached/below. I'm quite pleased so far and I think the wheels are just the right height off the floor to make it look like it's not raised.
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Hey there, I am UK based, as in I am from the UK, return every other month, and source all my supplies there. However I live in Italy...
Wealdon tools will do you a much better price on a slot cutter. you need to buy a 1/4" arbour and then the appropriate slot piece.
if you need any woodworking materials, amazon is not really the place, just ask me if you want to know where to get something, as i have been sourcing things for years.
however I am also on my first arcade build, as a woodworker I thought the cabinet part would be straightforward, and it was, apart from a crash course in lamination where my main problem was not having a flat surface (not even a floor) to do it on.
I would be interested if you are able to get marquee retainers in UK? I have tried emailing Gremlin from whom i was considering getting t-moulding, and no reply.
where are you getting your t-moulding from?
what is the place that does the vinyl artwork? so far even people in Europe seem to be using game on graphix for that...
enjoy your build!
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wcndave,
I priced the tool from Wealdon which is the cheapest as you say, but the T-molding style I want isn't at Gremlin. But given the molding from t-molding.com in America is half the price of Gremlin, they also sell the router bit half the price so with postage it works out the same as if I'd bought both from UK. The molding I'm after is black with chrome insert, it'll look nice with my black/red/chrome cabinet.
As for the retainer clips, what I'm doing is using 18mm right-angled quadrant (you can get wood for about £4 per 2m at Wickes/B&Q), but I'm going to get aluminium (£9 for 2m). I'm going to put this for the marquee and to section off the glass and control panel. For the marquee I'll be sticking the aluminium to the wood where necessary and where it needs to be removed I'll hiding some screws where you don't see them - i.e. on the marquee the quadrant will be screwed from the top. Simply, I'll be leaving a gap for the perspex. As an idea what I mean, attached is an image of what I'm planning for my control panel showing the angled aluminium quadrant (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AqbXlbucnG0/UGi-QlPchnI/AAAAAAAAAGY/QO64VEwZQH4/s640/control+panel+design.jpg). My control panel will be about 660mm x 340mm and it will be flush with the cabinet (i.e. no sticky out bits as I just don't like them, they don't look right). I'm going to stick two joysticks with 6 buttons each and hoping there's enough room in the centre for a trackball and possibly even a spinner above the trackball.
If it helps, I found this place: http://www.theplasticpeople.co.uk/ (http://www.theplasticpeople.co.uk/) really cheap. 2mm perspex for the marquee (£8), 3mm for the control panel (£5) and £15 to cut 16 holes (millimetre tolerance they say).
For the vinyl I'm going here: http://www.printed.com (http://www.printed.com)
It works out at £15 for the marquee on 'special' light paper. For the control panel it's about £10, and for the side art, a full 6footx3foot sticky vinyl is £25.
For the screen it worked out cheaper to get 600x660mm 4mm tempered safety glass (£15). For £5 they have it in grey, so I'm off on saturday to have a look with my tablet behind it to see what it looks like. Anyone got any thoughts on using lightly greyed/smoked glass?
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I should really wait until I do a lot before posting rather than by the day , so I'll update next when it's all assembled ready for the control panel/painting.
I created the drawer today. I toyed with the idea of creating little handles (coving type router bits) but I didn't like it. I really wanted it concealed and to be simple - and to only use the wood I had (i.e. the 18mm MDF and batons.)
Here's the drawer closed and about as flush as I can get as it's from the original wood cut for the kick-plate (the batons holding the sides/front together form natural stops for the drawer front. The sides/back are screwed/glued and the front is dowelled and glued.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8GZa_u-Gen8/UHB_NQOhGZI/AAAAAAAAAJM/nkEyy6_s1P8/s320/P1010805.JPG)
Here it's open
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AgjMta0DdZU/UHB_O6mbIfI/AAAAAAAAAJU/BIqs6qQ2-Bs/s320/P1010806.JPG)
About as simple as you can get really, especially the runners :)
But I figured the drawers for the keyboard/mouse will hardly ever be used so as concealed as possible the better.
The daft looking bit of wood shows about 3 inches from the back, so to open the draw I push the cabinet back an inch and the draw opens. It also serves as a handy spacer so the venting from the back is sufficient.
Sunday I added the marquee and lighting and mocked out the control panel just to see about fitting. I'm undecided whether to mount the monitor with the stand to allow manual rotation.
That isn't me in the picture, it's Harry my chief technical consultant (he's a builder) who dropped off a junction box as I forgot to buy one.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IyMZQ1xgMXQ/UHHQGCbwy7I/AAAAAAAAAJs/fe4FaulL1Ao/s320/P1010810.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--k9nMMhdfEU/UHHQH_UiNMI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/ptpvt5q0rQ0/s320/P1010814.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtDJIcGaIbE/UHHQJLei6pI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/-Z_nJSjTYsE/s320/P1010815.JPG)
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Hello,
I've now finished the woodworking (bar holes for speakers/vents). If I went back in time I'd give the front of the control panel a bit more height, extrude the marquee slightly more to allow more speakers (I've boxed in the marquee separate from the speaker housing to avoid light-bleed). Overall I'm happy though. The control panel is not hinged, what I've done instead is the two panels below the CP are in with dowels. So to remove the CP you pull out the draw and unclip the panels. If more space is required or the CP needs to be removed completely you unscrew the angle brackets.
I have a question though, the cabinet is going to be red, black, chrome. For the marquee clips and to surround the control panel I'm using aluminium strips rather than t-molding and marquee retainer clips. In the pictures below do you think I should remove or keep the very bottom aluminium strip as it makes the panel look very small.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-77lHv7ZI4b4/UHvJsrjm5sI/AAAAAAAAAKY/qezkjP_tdOM/s1600/P1010829.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QbiJ-rq8lzM/UHvJwYbiQ9I/AAAAAAAAAKs/IwP6iEX6BRs/s1600/cab+face3.JPG)
Here are some more of the build process.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QDHZ6Y4cFxI/UHvJrhnIDOI/AAAAAAAAAKQ/GVyPi1D8Cg8/s1600/P1010826.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KjexVKFD0dI/UHvJvCwPcEI/AAAAAAAAAKo/ZRY1grCE-Jw/s1600/cab+face2.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iG2WKbspogY/UHvKQx6rhGI/AAAAAAAAALI/sNaL8MrVFpg/s1600/cab+speaker1.JPG)
you can find the exciting build blog at http://negnegneg.blogspot.com (http://negnegneg.blogspot.com)
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It looks as though I'm a little late to comment on the hinge idea for the control panel. Many of the people here do that, or make the control panel removable. I went a different route and put a large door on the back of my cab, and just reach up inside. This could also be accomplished with the lower panel being a door. My CP is removable but locked down tight and the access I have is enough to get in and out.
I'm also glad you fit your controls in between the sides of your cab - it just looks proper to me.
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Yes, that's what I wanted (not an oversized CP), but I've been playing with various 6 button CP layouts (from slagcoin) trying to figure out how far is comfortable from the left/right edges for the controls and more importantly whether I can fit a trackball in the middle (CP is 26" x 13"). I'm torn as to whether to get one or not and I think I need to buy the buttons/joystick to get a feel - though that'll mean paying postage twice....
Here's some mockups attached, the left edge is about 8cm/3" and the right 5cm/2" I think it's a case of I don't want hands touching the edges of the cabinet or the trackball. I think I like the trackball lower down but it means the controls have to be much higher up and/or may be annoying if the hand/wrist is over it.
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Cheers, thought being from the UK I was being ignored ;)
Nice to see another UK member. Don't worry, they're quite nice to us.
We can swap tales about B&Q and the price of petrol ;)
another UK build here.
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Hello,
I haven't posted in a while. I've just been waiting for art, but it's coming :)
Here are the designs for my side-art:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=122792.0;attach=272914)
This is the cabinet getting the yellow sprayed on:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OIhOlqkopnU/UK_gJkBTORI/AAAAAAAAAUw/jTQP-YgCC3g/s1600/sprayyellow2.jpg)
The black stripe and red/orange is now painted too. I'll get photos later.
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Hello,
The main spray job is finished, just need to touch it up:
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RbHtfxkm3Gk/ULjAX-c4egI/AAAAAAAAAWs/LkZZHgFyVSo/s1600/20121129_190032.jpg)
My artist also superimposed the vector graphic he did of metal slug onto my paint job using photoshop (i.e. only the side is real at the minute):
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2KeFrYB4kL0/ULjI3oWyXzI/AAAAAAAAAX8/ReIX90R_VR8/s1600/Side.jpg)
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amazing!!!
Where did you get the drawing sticker?
5 starts
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Hold your horses! the spraying is done, I said my friend superimposed the image onto the photo so I still need to order that vinyl - I'll be doing it when he finished the CP art so I don't have to pay the printer twice. This was just a check to see if it would work. Hopefully it will look the same though :)
He took a MS tank jpeg, vectorised it then coloured it in. This way I can have it any size.
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That shop really does look badass. Kudos to your friend, i'm sure the vinyl decal will look just as radical.
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Man, this is great work for a first cab!!
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The side art was taken from this picture:
http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2011/275/6/2/metal_slug__reload_by_sho_n_d_by_uro_boro-d4bn26x.jpg (http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2011/275/6/2/metal_slug__reload_by_sho_n_d_by_uro_boro-d4bn26x.jpg)
The artist above (http://sho-n-d.deviantart.com/ (http://sho-n-d.deviantart.com/)) gave me permission too, I thought I'd check with him just in case.
My artist friend removed all the colour, vectorised the jpeg and tidied it all up. So now it's easy to resize and colour without any loss.
On Sunday I'll be touching up the bad bits - I'll know next time to use quality masking tape and make sure it goes down well :)
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Hello,
Some days you do nothing, others you do even less. Then all of a sudden two buses come along.
So, finally, I got the Illustrator art for the lettering and for good cheesy measure I knocked up some pixel graphics for the kick plate. Handily my mate has a vinyl cutting machine so we cut it tonight and stuck them on. Almost finished :)
Hopefully, they'll appear below as thumbnails to click and view. Thanks for reading.
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Wow :notworthy:
Really love the color scheme and artwork design (metal slug rules ;))! Really makes the shape of the cabinet stand out. Nothing more to say ;)
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Hello,
It's been on hold for a while waiting for the side art tank and control panel art to be provided. This is because I was going to lacquer the sides. However I've decided not to any more (over fears of the paint and vinyl being attacked by the lacquer), so I put it together. The full build can be found at http://negnegneg.blogspot.com/, (http://negnegneg.blogspot.com/,) however here are some pictures. The speaker grill isn't as contrasty as the picture shows, I altered it for my blog to show where the speakers went as without it, it was hard to see.
Pictures should be below. Thanks for reading. Hopefully it'll be completed soon.
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So are you no longer doing the metal slug graphic on the side?
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Yes, I'm just waiting for my mate to finish the control panel art before I order the prints as that way I save on printing costs. I didn't assemble it before because I wouldn't be able to transport it to the spray shop but now I'm not I could assemble it.
Actually, that begs the question, I need to think whether a CP in gloss or matt (below acrylic) will look better.
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Wow this thing is awesome great work!
Seem Retrocade is a popular name
Mine has the same name ; )
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/15/yru9y4y8.jpg)
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/imlived/podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg) (http://"http://www.nerdjackers.com")
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Lucky I didn't keep with the space invader theme then, you'd have said I was copying ;)
Actually, I called it retrocade because I'm involved in http://retrospec.sgn.net/ (http://retrospec.sgn.net/) and like the styling so changed the 'spec' to 'cade' :)
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Hi Neg, its looking incredible. I love the artwork especially!
I notice from your posts you're from the UK. How have you coped with the inches to mm conversions and so on? What thickness MDF did you use (apologies if in your post but I didn't notice it - is it 18mm - as you mention with the t-molding?). Also, how did this work with the T-molding? I see you say it fits, and you got it from groovygamegear but that is a US site isn't it, so what measurements did you buy for 18mm?
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Hello,
You could always read my blog from day 1 ;)
Yes, it's 18mm MDF and the 3/4 inch molding fits really well. I wouldn't get thinner MDF unless you're building a table top. I bought the items from America for two reasons:
1. The T-molding of the style I got wasn't sold here (e.g. Gremlin solutions)
2. The cost of the router bit plus T-molding plus postage was less than the price of UK T-molding alone (excluding postage). T-Molding here is about £20 for 20 foot, whereas in America it is half, router bits are about £25 here or <£10 in America. If I wasn't buying the router bit I would have probably bought the molding over here and grumbled to myself silently.
My next conversion issue will probably be mm/inch drill bits for the buttons as I think I'm going for the happ competition ones as I don't feel leaving that little wood for the CP beneath the Seimitsu/Sanwa will work very well. I haven't really looked into drill bits for that yet, so I'll reach that stage later - though I suspect all will be well as you've got enough play with the button bevel.
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Glad he asked questions about the t molding can you link us to the US site if you still have it
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/imlived/podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg) (http://"http://www.nerdjackers.com")
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If you're looking for Groovy Game Gear t-molding, here (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=75) it is.
Just make sure you get the right cutter for the t-molding you select -- Randy has the right one listed on each individual t-molding page.
Scott
EDIT: Here is the video Neg made on t-molding. The only minor adjustment I would recommend is cutting the test slot on a leftover piece of MDF instead of the actual piece in case you are off by several mm like he accidently was on his test cut. (4:00 into video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXAvHR-QxIM&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXAvHR-QxIM&feature=player_embedded#)!
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Watch all the youtube clips very handy thank you
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/imlived/podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg) (http://"http://www.nerdjackers.com")
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Thanks for your help chuckle pie - 18mm MDF it is (and I will read your post from the start, I've a LOT of reading to do here ;-)).
I'll also look at USA t-moulding. I was surprised at the prices I'd seen here and its good to know the inches measurements will still fit...
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At the blog I've created a page (not a article) where I'll be dumping the full plans to the cabinet with build instructions, tips I've found along the way, uploads of all the artwork if it's of use to anyone, etc.
As for the videos, they aren't terribly detailed or instructional, but I'll be adding another soon regarding setting up the software and doing the wiring.
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If you're looking for Groovy Game Gear t-molding, here (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=75) it is.
Just make sure you get the right cutter for the t-molding you select -- Randy has the right one listed on each individual t-molding page.
Scott
EDIT: Here is the video Neg made on t-molding. The only minor adjustment I would recommend is cutting the test slot on a leftover piece of MDF instead of the actual piece in case you are off by several mm like he accidently was on his test cut. (4:00 into video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXAvHR-QxIM&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXAvHR-QxIM&feature=player_embedded#)!
What the p+p from groovy gamers? Seem some great bits but im afraid the delivery will be to much
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/imlived/podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg) (http://"http://www.nerdjackers.com")
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I lost my mate doing the graphics (hence the big delay) so I did the CP and Marquee myself. Here they are, just about to send to printers, unless anyone has any suggestions:
Note the marquee the votes mostly went to the second image (bomb) followed by red mushroom.
btw, I spent a long time wrestling with MaLa but I think it's all finally working. Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=t2Y4NpjI7eg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=t2Y4NpjI7eg)
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I think the text on the marquee is way too small. The title should pop out and it doesn't.
My build is also called Retrocade and also (loosly) based on Rasmus' Project Mame :cheers:
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Do you have plenty of bleed around the graphics? Don't forget that the marquee retainers are going to cover up parts of the top and bottom.
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I'll tinker with font sizes, ta.
As for the edges, those silver things top and bottom are actually placeholders for my marquee retainers - I have 18mm brushed aluminium metal L shaped doodah's that are fixed to the cabinet (top one is screwed, bottom one is glued on) and there will be a gap for the acrylic/paper - I'm probably just going to use 2 * 2mm acrylic for this (and 3mm for the cp).
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I got all my control panel parts the other day and wired them all up and all is working fine. This was on hardboard so I could check everything, and lucky I did as I need to move P1 10mm to the right to stop my hand hitting the side of the cabinet and P2 10mm to the right as when the spade connectors are plugged into the joystick they hit the side of the trackball (which you can just about see in the picture)
I've got Happ competition pro (convex) buttons for the main players, seimitsu LS-32 (not the 01) joysticks and the other buttons (concave start/coin are from IL). I've also got two for flippers to go on the side of the cabinet which are Happ Standard (concave) and I've programmed for left/right mouse also. The trackball is the u-track from ultimarc using the minipac and wiring harness. Here are some pictures.
I've also got my control panel art attached too. The two little buttons you see (I've got two black ones) I'm using them as barely visible buttons for power and escape (you can see them in the CP art). These little momentary buttons only cost 40p and they are great, there's a really strong spring giving it a lovely firm action. The button is about 5mm and the surround is about 13mm.
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Hello,
My artwork has arrived, lovely job by printed.com (in UK). Here's some pictures. Yes, those are specially selected weights on the corners ;)
The marquee is on a backlit paper - kind of plasticy semi-translucent, the rest is sticky vinyl.
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Hello,
My artwork has arrived, lovely job by printed.com (in UK). Here's some pictures. Yes, those are specially selected weights on the corners ;)
The marquee is on a backlit paper - kind of plasticy semi-translucent, the rest is sticky vinyl.
A bit off-topic, but where did you get the Metal Slug image?
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Hello,
The tank was a hand drawn piece of art done on DeviantArt website. I got my friend (who also happens to be a bit of an artist) to recreate it in Adobe Illustrator. I think he put it as a background layer then traced around it.
I'll be uploading all the resources I've found and created to my google docs public folder when I'm finished.
btw, I did get permission of the artist first, he was quite pleased about it going on a full size arcade cabinet :)
tbh, if you search for 'metal slug art' I suspect the first page will be full of deviant art stuff, there's absolutely masses of computer art at the website.
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Watch all the youtube clips very handy thank you
There's another one (uploading now) with me painting and assembling.
http://youtu.be/-jFJyZcTliI (http://youtu.be/-jFJyZcTliI)
So I've built my control panel (video pending on the build too)
Here are some pictures.
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Hello,
Got my side art on, almost finished. Below :)
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Looking good!!!! nice work mate.
:applaud:
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Looks great
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/imlived/podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg) (http://"http://www.nerdjackers.com")
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Looks ---smurfing--- amazing. I love the paint skills. :)
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Hello,
Finally finished it, I posted a new thread here
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132313.msg1359092.html#msg1359092 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132313.msg1359092.html#msg1359092)
to save people browsing 'making a cabinet' stuff.
I've more videos ready to edit and post for making control panel, wiring, etc.....