Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: iserian on September 03, 2012, 09:08:30 pm
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Planning a 3 way Cocktail and would like to go all RGB, approximately 50 buttons. I was considering Paradise IL translucent buttons and the Paradise RGB (IL-LUMINATION RGB 5VDC LED). From reading the Paradise site it appears that these two go together nicely. Has anyone used this setup? How did you like it? I'm going to have to use 2 PacLed 64's, and trying to understand what I will need to connect these to those.
Button's
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en...ton-psl-l.html (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en...ton-psl-l.html)
RGB
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en...-5vdc-led.html (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en...-5vdc-led.html)
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I used those buttons on the Two-Headed Beast and love 'em. But for 50 buttons you'll need 3 PACLED64s.
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Another hit to the budget :-)....
So for the install, did the IL RGB fit right into the button, or does it go below the button? Is this as easy to setup as it looks? Did you find them to be bright enough?
What connectors will I need in order to connect these to the PacLed 64's?
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50 buttons on a cocktail? You gotta post a pic of your proposed layout.... I just can't imagine that in my head! ???
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Probably closer to 46 +/-
I'm going to be putting together a North Coast Custom's 3 way -
9 Buttons per side (6, + 3 control) + 2 for flipper's X 2 sides = 22
3rd Control Panel = (6+6+6 control) + 2 for flipper's = 20
6 RGB Joysticks +6
Total 48
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Another hit to the budget :-)....
So for the install, did the IL RGB fit right into the button, or does it go below the button? Is this as easy to setup as it looks? Did you find them to be bright enough?
What connectors will I need in order to connect these to the PacLed 64's?
This thread shows how I installed the LEDs in the buttons: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113154.msg1201658.html#msg1201658 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113154.msg1201658.html#msg1201658)
This post shows my buttons lit (plenty bright for me): http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,59359.msg1273650.html#msg1273650 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,59359.msg1273650.html#msg1273650)
The PACLEDs come with connector housings for the headers, but you have to find the pins (USB header style pins). Here is what I used: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1213429.html#msg1213429 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1213429.html#msg1213429)
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Probably closer to 40 +/-
I'm going to be putting together a North Coast Custom's 3 way -
9 Buttons per side (6, + 3 control) + 2 for flipper's X 2 sides = 22
3rd Control Panel = (6+6+6 control) + 2 for flipper's = 20
Total 42
Wait, a total of 6 flippers on 3 sides. :dizzy:
(http://www.mameroom.com/images/CocktailSystem1.jpg)
What are they thinking? Full screen tables (w/o backglass) from the short sides and WS/3:4 tables from the long side?
Seems like either 2 or 4 flippers (left, right, left upper, and right upper) on one side would be a better way to go.
Assuming the flipper buttons are for pinball instead of Chicken Shift (http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7326), you might want to include a ball launch button, too.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249913;image)
Scott
P.S. The Paradise links in your original post are broken.
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I get having the 6/player on the long side but what vert games use 6 buttons? Unless you're dead set on having screen splitting as an option (and then why bother with side by side play) seems like you could ditch some unnecessary inputs from the vertical ends. I'd think three would be sufficient.
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Nice. looking back at your 'build' brings back memories OF MY 2072 Tournament side/side and play choice 10 side by side.
For the connector's - in your post you said that each pacled 64 should come with the 48 connector. How do you connect the wires from the RBG to the connector? (solder? or screw down like Ipac OR..?)
Another hit to the budget :-)....
So for the install, did the IL RGB fit right into the button, or does it go below the button? Is this as easy to setup as it looks? Did you find them to be bright enough?
What connectors will I need in order to connect these to the PacLed 64's?
This thread shows how I installed the LEDs in the buttons: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113154.msg1201658.html#msg1201658 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113154.msg1201658.html#msg1201658)
This post shows my buttons lit (plenty bright for me): http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,59359.msg1273650.html#msg1273650 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,59359.msg1273650.html#msg1273650)
The PACLEDs come with connector housings for the headers, but you have to find the pins (USB header style pins). Here is what I used: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1213429.html#msg1213429 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1213429.html#msg1213429)
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I agree, probably more buttons that will be needed/used in the vertical setup. Holes are already there.. so looking to fill them versus leaving a blank. I'm not certain that my kit will come with holes for the flipper's on the 3rd player side though.
Probably closer to 40 +/-
I'm going to be putting together a North Coast Custom's 3 way -
9 Buttons per side (6, + 3 control) + 2 for flipper's X 2 sides = 22
3rd Control Panel = (6+6+6 control) + 2 for flipper's = 20
Total 42
Wait, a total of 6 flippers on 3 sides. :dizzy:
(http://www.mameroom.com/images/CocktailSystem1.jpg)
What are they thinking? Full screen tables (w/o backglass) from the short sides and WS/3:4 tables from the long side?
Seems like either 2 or 4 flippers (left, right, left upper, and right upper) on one side would be a better way to go.
Assuming the flipper buttons are for pinball instead of Chicken Shift (http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7326), you might want to include a ball launch button, too.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249913;image)
Scott
P.S. The Paradise links in your original post are broken.
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I agree, probably more buttons that will be needed/used in the vertical setup. Holes are already there.. so looking to fill them versus leaving a blank. I'm not certain that my kit will come with holes for the flipper's on the 3rd player side though.
By blank, you mean an empty hole or one of these (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F6048342&rnd=8994245&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Button+Plugs&cat=Pushbutton+s&catstr=HOME:Pushbuttons:Pushbutton+s)?
(http://www.arcadeemulator.net/media/images/product_detail/2h526212.jpg) (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/media/images/product_category/1h526212.jpg)
Scott
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I was thinking something like the plugs but at $1/ each... I might as well go single color led for a buck more >:D and if a buck more,, closer to the price of RGB.. See how this budget thing gets out of whack so quickly.
I agree, probably more buttons that will be needed/used in the vertical setup. Holes are already there.. so looking to fill them versus leaving a blank. I'm not certain that my kit will come with holes for the flipper's on the 3rd player side though.
By blank, you mean an empty hole or one of these (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F6048342&rnd=8994245&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Button+Plugs&cat=Pushbutton+s&catstr=HOME:Pushbuttons:Pushbutton+s)?
(http://www.arcadeemulator.net/media/images/product_detail/2h526212.jpg) (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/media/images/product_category/1h526212.jpg)
Scott
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I was thinking something like the plugs but at $1/ each... I might as well go single color led for a buck more >:D and if a buck more,, closer to the price of RGB.. See how this budget thing gets out of whack so quickly.
If you don't want the buttons any reason (other than the giant pain in the ass) that you don't do a wood plug patch and fill then repaint/resurface?
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How much would they charge for the kit without the holes you don't want?
After all, their name is North Coast Custom Arcades.
Scott
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I asked and was told "NO" to any changes. As it is.. I'm having to wait a month due to what they are calling a back-log.
How much would they charge for the kit without the holes you don't want?
After all, their name is North Coast Custom Arcades.
Scott
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I'm refreshing my 3-sided cocktail (project page coming soonish...), and I've been taking Nephasth's approach for RGB lighting (The Beast project page is what inspired me to refresh the cocktail I built in 2005 - just amazing). The lighting effects with the rings is very cool, but I do have one piece of advice: Buy a proper Molex crimping tool. They aren't cheap, but without out one, crimping the literally hundreds of pins you are signing up for with this approach will be neither fast nor reliable.
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Can you post link to 'tested proper' tool.
Post some pic's of your 3 sided, interested to see how it is now.
I'm refreshing my 3-sided cocktail (project page coming soonish...), and I've been taking Nephasth's approach for RGB lighting (The Beast project page is what inspired me to refresh the cocktail I built in 2005 - just amazing). The lighting effects with the rings is very cool, but I do have one piece of advice: Buy a proper Molex crimping tool. They aren't cheap, but without out one, crimping the literally hundreds of pins you are signing up for with this approach will be neither fast nor reliable.
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Can you post link to 'tested proper' tool.
These work (with dies shown installed) for the Micro-Fit Molex connectors and also the header connectors for the PACLED64s.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171128)
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How about this?
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Nope.
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Yea it would.... But you wouldn't like it.... The one Nephasth suggested it a much better tool if you are going to be doing a lot of connectors.... Ratcheting, spring return, replacable dies, and adjustable preloads all make for a much easier and more consistent crimp... You will be hating yourself after 5 minutes if you go with the cheapo version.
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Thinking of all the crimping and connecting,,, has me considering the ultralux buttons again. Any idea on how these compare to the Paradise RGB's? They are a fair bit more expensive, trying to understand what the extra $ covers, other than the easy wiring (to pacled) that is.
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How about this?
Been using something like that for years, no complaints.
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Based on Neph's advice, I bought that same Molex crimper. Now I can crimp Molex like a ---Bad words, bad words, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when saint censors you?--- riot. :cheers:
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This one works well too:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0638191300/WM9025-ND/1873803 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0638191300/WM9025-ND/1873803)
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These cost $270 bucks?
1 269.33000 269.33 ?
This one works well too:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0638191300/WM9025-ND/1873803 (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0638191300/WM9025-ND/1873803)
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My bad.... Are you building this with a budget? ???
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Iserian - Put "crimp ratchet" into the forum search to get about 8 threads of info and links that won't bust your budget.
Scott
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How about this?
Been using something like that for years, no complaints.
You've been using crush type crimpers for these types of terminal pins?
(http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/productimages/s4/28-9420.jpg)
...and have no complaints? You're full of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.
On a side note; iserian, you can get a set of the crimpers I pictured earlier for $20-$30 that come with the dies to crimp the "standard" Molex pins found in arcade cabs and buy the set of dies in the picture for smaller terminal pins (Micro-Fit) for about $7 shipped.
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I got one like this off ebay:
(http://www.buildlog.net/forum/download/file.php?id=3174&sid=cbd5962ec533e1ba23b4c36424b22c68&mode=view)
And I went from 15 minutes-per unreliable crimp (and a lot of swearing), to 3 or 4 crimps a minute with extremely high reliability. It holds the terminal in place with a little spring loaded clamp, you just insert the wire, and both crimp areas are compressed in one squeeze. Mine came with a Micro-Fit style die (like in the picture), which works well enough for both the wire-to-wire connections and the pins needed for the wire-to-board connectors as well.
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Nice. How much did you end up spending?
I got one like this off ebay:
(http://www.buildlog.net/forum/download/file.php?id=3174&sid=cbd5962ec533e1ba23b4c36424b22c68&mode=view)
And I went from 15 minutes-per unreliable crimp (and a lot of swearing), to 3 or 4 crimps a minute with extremely high reliability. It holds the terminal in place with a little spring loaded clamp, you just insert the wire, and both crimp areas are compressed in one squeeze. Mine came with a Micro-Fit style die (like in the picture), which works well enough for both the wire-to-wire connections and the pins needed for the wire-to-board connectors as well.
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I know this one isn't ratcheting, but it is made by Molex. It's also not $300 like the Molex brand ratcheting ones I've seen. :o
(http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/large/70111028_large.jpg)
Spec sheet here (http://www.molex.com/webdocs/datasheets/pdf/en-us/0638111000_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.pdf). The contact types it works with are listed on the right.
Available from Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/63811-1000/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug5uqHxed9BtP5OnHwdkCDLDGDS3J0lwck%3d) or Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70111028) for less than $40.
Has anyone tried this one?
Scott
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Has anyone tried this one?
Scott
I have a similar pair that I use for tiny terminal pins:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CSF8tzplL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)
I've made over 2,000 crimps with them and they're still going strong. The only thing I don't like is that, with these crimpers, I have to crimp each terminal pin twice (once for the conductor, and once for the insulator).
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The only thing I don't like is that, with these crimpers, I have to crimp each terminal pin twice (once for the conductor, and once for the insulator).
Hmm. . . $260 less in my pocket or crimp twice. . . Thats a tough one. :lol
Also why such a tease, Nep. You post a cryptic hint about a $30 crimper and a pic from Amazon, but not a link to the source. You afraid one of us noobs might take over your role as Molex Man? >:D ;D
Scott
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When I want something I do a great deal of searching to find the best deals... But for those who like stuff handed to them here we go...
The crimpers from my previous post:
http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K (http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K)
These are for really tiny crimps only. I used them on 1mm JST terminal pins...
The mysterious $30 crimpers (they crimp the insulation and conductor simultaneously):
http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347061444&sr=1-9&keywords=ratchet+crimper (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347061444&sr=1-9&keywords=ratchet+crimper)
Great for the "standard" Molex connector pins.
And the $7 dies for the ratcheting crimpers:
http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-236-2C4-DIE (http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-236-2C4-DIE)
For Molex Micro-Fit family and USB style header connectors.
I've posted all of this before as well, but nobody listens to me... except for yotsuya.
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That's better price than my ebay purchase, which was $100 (or about 25c a crimp for my project). I didn't like the cost, but I am so, so much happier with this tool than without it.
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When I want something I do a great deal of searching to find the best deals... But for those who like stuff handed to them here we go...
The crimpers from my previous post:
http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K (http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K)
These are for really tiny crimps only. I used them on 1mm JST terminal pins...
The mysterious $30 crimpers (they crimp the insulation and conductor simultaneously):
http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347061444&sr=1-9&keywords=ratchet+crimper (http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347061444&sr=1-9&keywords=ratchet+crimper)
Great for the "standard" Molex connector pins.
And the $7 dies for the ratcheting crimpers:
http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-236-2C4-DIE (http://www.pimfg.com/Product-Detail/HT-236-2C4-DIE)
For Molex Micro-Fit family and USB style header connectors.
I've posted all of this before as well, but nobody listens to me... except for yotsuya.
Thanks, Nep! :notworthy:
Must have missed the links in your older posts. I spent hours looking through old threads for ratcheting crimp pliers at a decent price--must not have searched on the right terms.
Thanks again for the rock solid starting point, and if it's any consolation most of us do listen, but sometimes we don't hear. (. . .or we aren't smart enough to understand. :lol )
Scott
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I ended up going with forty or so ultralux buttons so now all I have to crimp are six rgb joysticks. I will check to see if Frys has one, if not will pick up the thirty dollar one.