Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: jace055 on August 10, 2012, 09:12:51 pm
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I am at a crossroads here. I have purchased a piano hinge to use for my control panel top but I am second guessing myself. I don't think this will give me the most elegant solution.
What has everyone else used?
How do you keep the top closed during agressive play?
Does your panel open towards the front or back?
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Piano hinge should work fine. I've never had a control panel accidently open. You could always add a latch of some kind if it is an issue.
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How do you keep the top closed during agressive play?
Industrial velcro
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Stainless steel piano hinge, cut to length!
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/infernolab/Arcade%20Game/16keyboardbracket.jpg (http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/infernolab/Arcade%20Game/16keyboardbracket.jpg)
In the time since this pic was taken, I spray-painted the hinge red & I removed that awkward keyboard cradle.
Thanks,
-Jason
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Here's your huckleberry:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1265003.html#msg1265003 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1265003.html#msg1265003)
No offense to anyone, but there is no reason why you would need an exposed hinge on a CP, unless it's some funky weird shape. All the time and $$ invested into these things and then I see some routed out notch on a CP box with a hinge in there.
AJ
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I'm a fan of the euro hinges. They're completely adjustable and hidden.
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I have a piano hinge and it works great.
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Here's your huckleberry:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1265003.html#msg1265003 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117977.msg1265003.html#msg1265003)
No offense to anyone, but there is no reason why you would need an exposed hinge on a CP, unless it's some funky weird shape. All the time and $$ invested into these things and then I see some routed out notch on a CP box with a hinge in there.
AJ
Thanks.
That is exactly the example I was looking for. I have spent hundreds of hours and tons of money and I didn't want to short myself when another $10 or $20 would give me a more polished look. I think I'm going to hinge from the back though. I like to tinker in my box and I think it would be easier the other way around.
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Did someone say hidden European hinges?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249781;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249785;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249809;image)
(Sorry about the potato-phone pictures. :P)
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I think I'm going to hinge from the back though. I like to tinker in my box and I think it would be easier the other way around.
The reason many people choose to front hinge is to keep the joysticks from hitting the monitor.
As long as your build doesn't have that problem, you'll be fine.
Scott
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I tried those on my first CP (several years ago...it was a frankenpanel and FRICKIN HUGE!!). I had issues with tearout at the screws, though. Probably fine with ply, but not on my MDF.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/DSC01819.jpg)
AJ
Did someone say hidden European hinges?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249781;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249785;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=249809;image)
(Sorry about the potato-phone pictures. :P)
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I tried those on my first CP (several years ago...it was a frankenpanel and FRICKIN HUGE!!). I had issues with tearout at the screws, though. Probably fine with ply, but not on my MDF.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/DSC01819.jpg)
AJ
Can you elaborate a little more on the hinges you used. I'm worried about tearout when the entire weight is supported by 6 or 8 tiny wood screws. A quick google search shows hundreds of euro hinges and Blum offers many different options as well. I can't tell the difference and it seems they are designed to support the vertical weight of a cabinet door screwed into hardwood and not the horizontal weight of a frankenpanel screwed into mdf.
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Pocket hinges are better since the main load-bearing part is in a "pocket". Since the main body of the hinge sits about 1/2" inside the piece it's hinging from, the load is carried further into the wood. The other anchor point seems to be more robust compared to the euro hinges without the pocket.
Here's the pocket hinges...
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_6798.jpg)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/100MEDIAIMAG0009.jpg)
Notice that while open, the hinge actually allows the weight of the CP to "sit" on the edge of the CP box.
Plus, I think the pocket hinges are more pro looking.
Did you check my vid? It may explain it better...
AJ (http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/VIDEOS/?action=view¤t=cp_overview_good.mp4[/URL)
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I missed the video in your thread. Thanks that explained everything I needed. I'm off to home depot.
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Just make sure you get *INSET* Pocket hinges for 3/4" doors. I know when I went to get them out of those damn bins at Lowes, most of the actual hinges in the bin were the wrong ones. Go figure...I had to dig through the bin to find the actual hinges shown on the outside of the bin.
Also, you can get the correct forstner bit as a single, but I found an entire set for 20 bux (US). They're only high-speed steel, but I will only use them once in a while.
Click here (http://www.lowes.com/pd_95059-70-PC1008_0__?productId=3047788&Ntt=portter cable forstner&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=portter cable forstner&facetInfo)
My hinges used a 1 3/8" (35mm) hole.
AJ
I missed the video in your thread. Thanks that explained everything I needed. I'm off to home depot.
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Here's my piano hinge setup.
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/8527/pianohinge1.jpg)
(http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1957/pianohinge2.jpg)
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Pocket hinges are better since the main load-bearing part is in a "pocket". Since the main body of the hinge sits about 1/2" inside the piece it's hinging from, the load is carried further into the wood. The other anchor point seems to be more robust compared to the euro hinges without the pocket.
Here's the pocket hinges...
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/IMG_6798.jpg)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/100MEDIAIMAG0009.jpg)
Notice that while open, the hinge actually allows the weight of the CP to "sit" on the edge of the CP box.
Plus, I think the pocket hinges are more pro looking.
Did you check my vid? It may explain it better...
AJ
(http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p191/mcseforsale/MAME_CAB/VIDEOS/?action=view¤t=cp_overview_good.mp4[/URL)
Thank you! This is exactly what I've been looking for as my CP is very similar to yours.