Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: AndyWarne on August 04, 2012, 06:15:10 am
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Now Available!
Joystick with motor-driven restrictor. USB controlled with full software support using GUI, hotkeys, command line or API.
Full details can be found on http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html (http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html)
(http://www.ultimarc.com/images/servostik_base.jpg)
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:o :applaud:
ETA: Will you be offering "retrofit kits" to upgrade already purchased J-Stiks?
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Nice addition to your joysticks. :applaud: :applaud:
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You are a madman Andy - that's awesome! :applaud:
Any way of being able to manually fire the motor to switch for JAMMA setup (i.e. via an outside button)?
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You are a madman Andy - that's awesome! :applaud:
Any way of being able to manually fire the motor to switch for JAMMA setup (i.e. via an outside button)?
Yes we have alternative firmware which enables the USB cable wires to be connected to a buttons instead, to control switching.
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I have been designing this exact thing in my garage for the last 6 months. Looks like you hit it out of the park though. :applaud: This fills a great niche and it's nice to see. Do you know if the servo is compatible with 3rd party servo controllers like the pololu micro maestro? I was just getting ready to redo my CP and upgrade to a dual system. Would be great to reuse my servo controller.
Also, what shafts fit that stick? Any hollows available?
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This is a sweet solution. Adding the button option for those of us that don't use PC's is cool.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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OMG!!!
Andy, are you planning on selling upgrade kits for existing joystick installations? I'd love to add this ability to a JLF joystick.
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I am so happy I didn't order joysticks last week, this looks awesome Andy, they are going to sell like hotcakes! :applaud:
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HELLS YEAH!!!! :applaud: :applaud:
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I have been designing this exact thing in my garage for the last 6 months. Looks like you hit it out of the park though. :applaud: This fills a great niche and it's nice to see. Do you know if the servo is compatible with 3rd party servo controllers like the pololu micro maestro? I was just getting ready to redo my CP and upgrade to a dual system. Would be great to reuse my servo controller.
Also, what shafts fit that stick? Any hollows available?
I could be wrong but by looking at the pictures, it doesn't appear to be controlled by a servo but by a small motor. Anyway, it doesn't matter how it is controlled, as long as it works.
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I have been designing this exact thing in my garage for the last 6 months. Looks like you hit it out of the park though. :applaud: This fills a great niche and it's nice to see. Do you know if the servo is compatible with 3rd party servo controllers like the pololu micro maestro? I was just getting ready to redo my CP and upgrade to a dual system. Would be great to reuse my servo controller.
Also, what shafts fit that stick? Any hollows available?
I could be wrong but by looking at the pictures, it doesn't appear to be controlled by a servo but by a small motor. Anyway, it doesn't matter how it is controlled, as long as it works.
Yeah I guess the part where Andy says motor driven shoulda been a give-away. Anyway, same question, third party controller boards a go? I'm also interested in retro fit kit and measurements.
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:applaud:
I guess I'll be making another purchase soon.
I'm assuming its still a JLW right?
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I'd be interested in a retrofit kit too.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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THIS = Awesome.
Andy, do you have a measurements PDF, is the joystick a drop-in replacement for a J-Stick? How far does the motor stick out the side?
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Thank you this is so cool. I really want want one now.
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:applaud:
I guess I'll be making another purchase soon.
I'm assuming its still a JLW right?
this is along my line of thoughts too. Andy, compared to other sticks you sell, could you tell us the feel and travel of the stick? Is it like a JLW feel? thx.
also could you give us overall dimension on the underside(width and depth)? Im curious if I even have space to fit these on my panels. thx.
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These look sweet! Might well replace my magsticks with these.
The dimensions would be handy. My CP is wood and the joysticks are in a recessed section, so I may not have the room for the servo mechanism without routing out a bigger recess.
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Some answers:
Whether or not it uses a servo motor depends on how you define a servo. Its a small geared motor so essentially the same thing. But it wont work with other servo controllers. The requirements are much simpler, ie it does not need any positional control, just needs to move from one end to the other.
It is a J-Stik (JLW type) essentially, with other parts added. So this means we will be able to supply retro-fit kits. But this will be down the line. Also all accessories for this type of stick can be used.
Something else, this will also work with the Ultrastik 360 giving a fully contactless joystick with mapping AND mechanical restriction. Again, thats down the line.
I will try to get some diagrams done. Its unlikely there will be any clearance issues as the motor can be mounted top/bottom/left/right of the joystick.
Andy
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thx for the update Andy, I await your drawings.
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Something else, this will also work with the Ultrastik 360 giving a fully contactless joystick with mapping AND mechanical restriction. Again, thats down the line.
Andy
andy, you tease! looks liek my updated panel is on hold again! i was patiently waiting for the ultra rotary stick mod that i heard you were working on but now i'll have to wait for rotary mod AND this fine addition. with those two mods to the ultra, you could very well have the king of all joysticks ever made.
keep up the excellent work!
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thx for the update Andy, I await your drawings.
I have added a drawing and a PDF downloadable template.
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thank you sir, im off for a look.
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I love the round restrictor, so I wouldn't need it for the U360. But I may upgrade my P360s for this model (and maybe put a dedicated 45-degree stick in my 4-way - currently U360 - spot) .
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Just some questions for you Andy:
How long does it take to switch from 4-way to 8-way?
In this picture of the joystick the edge of the cut outs within the restrictor look a bit jagged, is this wear and tear caused from the auto switching?
(http://www.ultimarc.com/images/servostik_base.jpg)
I will try to get some diagrams done. Its unlikely there will be any clearance issues as the motor can be mounted top/bottom/left/right of the joystick.
The joystick plate is 78 by 95 and in the picture the motor is fitted to the side of the joystick that is 95, is it possible to mount the motor to the side that is 78?
Cheers.
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How long does it take to switch from 4-way to 8-way?
"Motor-driven restrictor plate switches between 4 and 8 way in less than a second" (http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html)
Scott
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Great, I just bought some mag stick plus joy last week.. :banghead:
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What is exact JLW shaft type does this joystick use? JLW-TP-8YT?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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That is so cool, and it looks great. It's so great that you engineered and built a solution like this. :applaud:
Any shots of one attached to a wood or metal CPO?
I would love to know how long they will last. No matter, I'd buy a set for JLFs if they were available today. I may still have to buy them as JLWs anyway. So. Much. Want. :cheers:
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Any chance we could see a video of this switching?
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Just some questions for you Andy:
How long does it take to switch from 4-way to 8-way?
In this picture of the joystick the edge of the cut outs within the restrictor look a bit jagged, is this wear and tear caused from the auto switching?
(http://www.ultimarc.com/images/servostik_base.jpg)
I will try to get some diagrams done. Its unlikely there will be any clearance issues as the motor can be mounted top/bottom/left/right of the joystick.
The joystick plate is 78 by 95 and in the picture the motor is fitted to the side of the joystick that is 95, is it possible to mount the motor to the side that is 78?
Cheers.
Its about 1 second to switch.
No there is no wear and tear on this, these nylon restrictors will last for years and likely thousands of switches.
Its not possible to mount the motoe on the shorter side but I am not sure why you would want to do this? It would not save any space because the motor still has to clear the switch connectors.
Andy
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I just looked at the JLFs, I'm thinking we won't be seeing anything like this for those for awhile?
So it looks like I'm going to be switching my JLFs for these JLWs, the only reason I was hesitant (short of the extra money) was because of all the accessories I bought already for the JLFs.
So I guess I'm asking that if I buy these, can I swap my hollow shafts and colored balls from my JLFs to these? :dunno
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I just looked at the JLFs, I'm thinking we won't be seeing anything like this for those for awhile?
So it looks like I'm going to be switching my JLFs for these JLWs, the only reason I was hesitant (short of the extra money) was because of all the accessories I bought already for the JLFs.
So I guess I'm asking that if I buy these, can I swap my hollow shafts and colored balls from my JLFs to these? :dunno
The ball tops will fit but the shafts wont unfortunately.
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Its about 1 second to switch.
No there is no wear and tear on this, these nylon restrictors will last for years and likely thousands of switches.
Its not possible to mount the motoe on the shorter side but I am not sure why you would want to do this? It would not save any space because the motor still has to clear the switch connectors.
Andy
Thanks Andy
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I've ordered mine, and while I wait for them I'm fretting over the fit in my tight cocktail control panels. Here's a question.. would it would be possible to mount motor upside down (with standoffs)? I have more room under my sticks then next to them...
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here is a pic of the underside of my panel. Its for reference only just for folks to gauge the idea of how things will fit. The stick is a JLF, andy's is based from JLW. But you get the idea, very tight fit indeed but will work, thanks to the motor and board being able to be mounted left/right/up/down. As you can see from the pic, very close to button nuts for sure.
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The ball tops will fit but the shafts wont unfortunately.
I have a lot of time and money invested in the lighting, if you have a source for hollow JLW shafts I'd buy 2 ServoStiks today. ;D
I looked at Ultimarc, Paradise, Arcade.de, GGG, and that place with all the Chinese language PDFs (sorry at work, can't recall the name). Some have JLF shafts, but I have found none for the JLW. (discontinued in 2009) :cry:
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The ball tops will fit but the shafts wont unfortunately.
I have a lot of time and money invested in the lighting, if you have a source for hollow JLW shafts I'd buy 2 ServoStiks today. ;D
I looked at Ultimarc, Paradise, Arcade.de, GGG, and that place with all the Chinese language PDFs (sorry at work, can't recall the name). Some have JLF shafts, but I have found none for the JLW. (discontinued in 2009) :cry:
Right under your nose (a few threads below this at this time)...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,114677.msg1292148.html#msg1292148 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,114677.msg1292148.html#msg1292148)
Also, if you can't light the balltops, light the dustwashers (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108719.msg1280200.html#msg1280200)!
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I've ordered mine, and while I wait for them I'm fretting over the fit in my tight cocktail control panels. Here's a question.. would it would be possible to mount motor upside down (with standoffs)? I have more room under my sticks then next to them...
The motor can be located under the stick by simply mounting the stick in that orientation, with the motor at the bottom.
Andy
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You are a madman Andy - that's awesome! :applaud:
Any way of being able to manually fire the motor to switch for JAMMA setup (i.e. via an outside button)?
Yes we have alternative firmware which enables the USB cable wires to be connected to a buttons instead, to control switching.
This looks really cool Andy, but I don't suppose it's configurable for both USB and button control simultaneously? I have several console emulators in my cabinet, I can envision wanting to have my MAME frontend set up to automatically toggle the controller using the controller info but still might (occasionally) want to manually toggle to 4-way mode if I'm playing some old console game that I think it might be better suited for. (I know, I could start a big discussion with people that don't think console games are fitting for an arcade cab and should only be played with a gamepad etc., but it is what it is).
I don't know what uC you're using and if you have free GPIO, but here are some features I can see being of use. If the hardware doesn't support it now perhaps you'd consider it for a future rev.
Software control to command it to 4-way or 8-way (already present) as well as a "soft toggle" to invert the current state.
A software means to query the current state.
GPIO pins configured as input to command it to 4-way, 8-way or toggle whatever the current state is... available concurrent with the USB control, not instead of it.
GPIO pins configured as output to indicate the current state.
With these features I could for example have MAME automatically set it to 4-way or 8-way as it believes is correct for the current game. Then I could have a hidden (or not-so-hidden) button on my CP to toggle the state, in case I for example want to try a game with the "incorrect" setup to see how it feels, or if I want to toggle things for a console game. With the 2 output pins I could for example use a hollow shaft (if/when they're available for this stick) and perhaps have the joystick illuminated blue when in 8-way mode and red when in 4-way mode. Alternately, indicator lighting could be built into the CP if that's the user's preference or in the absence of hollow shafts.
Just some thoughts sir. This is very interesting.
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Splendid product!
Can you comment on the throw distance? With my Mag-Stik Plus, the throws are rather short, which I believe to be an inherent issue with any switchable joystick. Just checking to see if you were able to improve the throw on this product.
Thanks,
-Jason
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which I believe to be an inherent issue with any switchable joystick.
Fair question but I wouldn't expect that to be the case. The bigger the hole in the restrictor, switchable or not, the further the actuator has to move to hit the switches. It would really depend more on the overall geometry of the joystick in question but I can't see it being a limiting factor of switchable joysticks at all. You're just rotating a plastic disk.
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Please don't judge the throw of all rotatable joys by the magstick plus. That is an extreme example of short throw. The GGG Omni 2 is standard in throw and there is no reason this mod would shorten throw on a regular stick.
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Splendid product!
Can you comment on the throw distance? With my Mag-Stik Plus, the throws are rather short, which I believe to be an inherent issue with any switchable joystick. Just checking to see if you were able to improve the throw on this product.
Thanks,
-Jason
The joystick is a J-Stik (Sanwa JLW-TM-8 type), check out the Retro Blast review and the joystick comparison table.
http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_jstik.html (http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_jstik.html)
http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/joysticks/Joystick%20Roundup.pdf (http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/joysticks/Joystick%20Roundup.pdf)
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You are a madman Andy - that's awesome! :applaud:
Any way of being able to manually fire the motor to switch for JAMMA setup (i.e. via an outside button)?
Yes we have alternative firmware which enables the USB cable wires to be connected to a buttons instead, to control switching.
This looks really cool Andy, but I don't suppose it's configurable for both USB and button control simultaneously? I have several console emulators in my cabinet, I can envision wanting to have my MAME frontend set up to automatically toggle the controller using the controller info but still might (occasionally) want to manually toggle to 4-way mode if I'm playing some old console game that I think it might be better suited for. (I know, I could start a big discussion with people that don't think console games are fitting for an arcade cab and should only be played with a gamepad etc., but it is what it is).
I don't know what uC you're using and if you have free GPIO, but here are some features I can see being of use. If the hardware doesn't support it now perhaps you'd consider it for a future rev.
Software control to command it to 4-way or 8-way (already present) as well as a "soft toggle" to invert the current state.
A software means to query the current state.
GPIO pins configured as input to command it to 4-way, 8-way or toggle whatever the current state is... available concurrent with the USB control, not instead of it.
GPIO pins configured as output to indicate the current state.
With these features I could for example have MAME automatically set it to 4-way or 8-way as it believes is correct for the current game. Then I could have a hidden (or not-so-hidden) button on my CP to toggle the state, in case I for example want to try a game with the "incorrect" setup to see how it feels, or if I want to toggle things for a console game. With the 2 output pins I could for example use a hollow shaft (if/when they're available for this stick) and perhaps have the joystick illuminated blue when in 8-way mode and red when in 4-way mode. Alternately, indicator lighting could be built into the CP if that's the user's preference or in the absence of hollow shafts.
Just some thoughts sir. This is very interesting.
But... If you are using Mame this suggests you must have some kind of keyboard encoder installed. So why not simply connect two extra buttons to it and program them as F4 and F8? Or use inbuilt shift functions and already-existing controls?
Not really sure why you would want to query the state. If its set to 4-way for example and you set it to 4-way again, this would not cause any issues.
Each connector added to the board adds to the cost and it would only be worthwhile if they are connectors which would generally be used.
Andy
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Thanks for the reply Andy. I know I'm probably over thinking things, and by all means I'm not trying to find fault. I'm just thinking in terms of flexibility, things I *might* want to do with it...
You're right, I probably don't need the dedicated input pins, that could be accomplished through the keyboard encoder... but I'm pretty sure all the inputs on my current ipac are full, plus (unlike most people, I think) I actually have several different keyboard mappings set up for different things and I'd have to tweak them all. Not a big deal, so long as I've got some free inputs.
What I *would* find most useful would be a couple of output pins indicating the state so I could easily drive indicator LEDs, which I personally would use to illuminate the sticks one color when they're in 4-way mode and another in 8-way mode. I'd also like a built in toggle function so I only need one button on my CP, to simply invert the state irrelevant of what the current state is. It looks like right now it supports commanding it explicitly to one state or the other but has no "toggle"?
The ability to query the state would allow me to implement a toggle myself... query the current state then command it to go to the other state, if the device doesn't implement it's own toggle. Again, not critical, but I'm an EE so I tend to overthink things. ;D Many people probably wouldn't use these functions, but I think they'd be cool.
I agree that adding parts increases costs and it's desirable to keep that to a minimum.... if there are free GPIO pins on the uC you might consider making them available as solder pads or through holes on a future rev, or run them out to a footprint for an unpopulated header. The majority of users might have no need of the functionality but I for one don't mind doing a little soldering to use an advanced feature so long as it's supported. :cheers:
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What I *would* find most useful would be a couple of output pins indicating the state so I could easily drive indicator LEDs...
I might think an illum kit (pac drive or GGG unit) would be programmable for this.
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What I *would* find most useful would be a couple of output pins indicating the state so I could easily drive indicator LEDs...
I might think an illum kit (pac drive or GGG unit) would be programmable for this.
No doubt, but why go through the added expense and jump through the software hoops if the device at hand has the capability? He's using some sort of uC with a USB interface as the controller... I assume it's the (I think 28-pin) surface mount chip in the pic. I guess the DIP chip is an amplifier for driving the motor. 28 pins, I would have to assume there's some free GPIO there. Heck I'd solder some wire wrap wire right to the pads on the chip if the firmware supported the state-reflecting outputs I'm suggesting.
I can easily see wanting to use an LED indicator for the joystick state even on an otherwise non-illuminated panel. A pacdrive is $30 and an LEDWiz is $45. Why absorb that extra expense if the hardware is already capable of it and the software to accomplish it would be a near-trivial firmware change?
Again, I'm not being negative. I like this a lot and think it's a lot cleaner than the servo hack (and THAT'S a fine solution in it's own right). I'm an EE just as I presume Andy is... I'm just making some suggestions in what is intented to be a brotherly spirit... :cheers:
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He's using some sort of uC with a USB interface as the controller... I assume it's the (I think 28-pin) surface mount chip in the pic. I guess the DIP chip is an amplifier for driving the motor. 28 pins, I would have to assume there's some free GPIO there. Heck I'd solder some wire wrap wire right to the pads on the chip if the firmware supported the state-reflecting outputs I'm suggesting.
That bit right there is the stuff you need to be saying, in question format, to Andy. No more, no less.
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Thanks for telling me what to say... ::) ;D I am making good-faith friendly suggestions as to ways that an already good product could be in my opinion enhanced and improved with I believe minimal effort. Perhaps nobody else would find value in my suggestions. I think they would be useful. I'm throwing it out there in what I presume is a "from one EE to another" friendly discourse.
Now, if Andy's controller does indeed have free GPIO and he'd be willing to do a firmware tweak and tell me which legs to solder to, that would be great (for me). Not everyone would be willing to solder right to the surface mount pads so the suggestion remains as a potential mod to a next rev of the controller board, if there is one. (It still does not address the toggle question).
If I've breeched any protocol by making these suggestions in a product announcement thread, I apologize. I am very fond of Ultimarc products and I think this product as it is now is already a huge improvement over manually-switched joysticks or the servo mod.
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I think this product as it is now is already a huge improvement over manually-switched joysticks or the servo mod.
The servo mod can control up to six different servos and provide push button toggle functionality from a single $20 controller. That is a $15 controller savings that operates 4 additional units allowing a builder to potentially do a rotating screen and four players worth of auto switching servo modded controllers all from a single control unit that is already supported in both MALA and to some extent Hyperspin thanks to the work of DaOld Man and Terrahawk. I think it's a bit early to discount the servo mod especially since that is exactly what this is a take on. As previously stated I'm excited by the new design and look forward to seeing it in action but I look to the horizon for more holistic answer when it comes to cab automation.
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I think this product as it is now is already a huge improvement over manually-switched joysticks or the servo mod.
The servo mod can control up to six different servos and provide push button toggle functionality from a single $20 controller. That is a $15 controller savings that operates 4 additional units allowing a builder to potentially do a rotating screen and four players worth of auto switching servo modded controllers all from a single control unit that is already supported in both MALA and to some extent Hyperspin thanks to the work of DaOld Man and Terrahawk. I think it's a bit early to discount the servo mod especially since that is exactly what this is a take on. As previously stated I'm excited by the new design and look forward to seeing it in action but I look to the horizon for more holistic answer when it comes to cab automation.
Haha man I'm rubbin' some people the wrong way methinks. :lol My comment was more intended as "a huge improvement over manually switched joysticks" and I tacked on the thing about the servo mod as an afterthought. I see it as an improvement as a nice, contained drop-in package... I like the physical implementation and the possibilities provided by the control interface (even though some of those possibilities are only in my head). I am not intending to discount the servo mod; it's actually pretty cool and since I've got two magstick pluses sitting in boxes awaiting a CP rebuild I've been considering implementing it. Also when I said I considered it an improvement I am not considering the overall cost at all.... you make good points there. Certainly that would be a key consideration when planning your CP but I was speaking only to the product and it's functionality, not it's cost.
I think you said earlier in the thread that you'd been working on something like this in your garage recently too... I'd actually also been thinking through a possible implementation for auto-switching. ;D I think it could be done even cheaper and simpler... but, I haven't gotten even close to making a prototype and who knows if I ever will, for all I know my ideas might be entirely non-practical.
Cheers bro. I like your work, wish I had that micro-Star Wars cab! :cheers:
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Thanks for telling me what to say... ::) ;D
I'm just sayin that brevity and concision do wonders.
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Thanks for telling me what to say... ::) ;D
I'm just sayin that brevity and concision do wonders.
Haha yeah honestly I've been hearing that my whole career, but I'm a details guy and I'm too old to change. ;D Cheers to you too, man. :cheers:
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He's using some sort of uC with a USB interface as the controller... I assume it's the (I think 28-pin) surface mount chip in the pic. I guess the DIP chip is an amplifier for driving the motor. 28 pins, I would have to assume there's some free GPIO there. Heck I'd solder some wire wrap wire right to the pads on the chip if the firmware supported the state-reflecting outputs I'm suggesting.
That bit right there is the stuff you need to be saying, in question format, to Andy. No more, no less.
Really? I don't think this was really put the right way, but I'm not going to tell you how to post... ;)
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LEDBlinky will support the ServoStik in the next release.
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This looks great Andy! :applaud:
I'm going to have to pick me up one of these.
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Curious to know what the feel is like when compared to the Mag-Stik Plus. Is it smoother. I find the Mag-Stik Plus cool but clumsy (not responsive enough) for game play.
Thanks Andy!
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I have an obviously newbie question regarding this.
A lot of cabinets have a seperate 4-way stick for some games, in addition to having the usual two 8-way sticks. Will using this essentially eliminate the need to buy / implement a seperate 4-way joystick in my cabinet, and instead implement a few buttons to control the switching? I'm currently building my first cab and still designing the control panel. The less joysticks I have to have on it the better (in theory I suppose)
Thanks in advance
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I have an obviously newbie question regarding this.
A lot of cabinets have a seperate 4-way stick for some games, in addition to having the usual two 8-way sticks. Will using this essentially eliminate the need to buy / implement a seperate 4-way joystick in my cabinet, and instead implement a few buttons to control the switching? I'm currently building my first cab and still designing the control panel. The less joysticks I have to have on it the better (in theory I suppose)
Thanks in advance
This does eliminate this requirement. So the cabinet can be as per an original which of course would not have that extra stick. There is no need for any additional buttons to switch, although you could have if you wanted to. The best way though would be to configure your front end to perform the switchover then it would be totally automatic.
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Curious to know what the feel is like when compared to the Mag-Stik Plus. Is it smoother. I find the Mag-Stik Plus cool but clumsy (not responsive enough) for game play.
Thanks Andy!
The Mag-Stik is a very short throw stick. Its a very subjective issue as to preference of a short or longer throw stick but this is a longer throw type, as per Sanwa or similar sticks.
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So I wanted to see just how different the mounts for a JLF and these were, so I scaled the drawings to proper size and then overlaid the JLF over the new ServoStiks, the JLF is in red.
It looks like I can use the same t-nuts for each. I was worried that I would have to tear up my CPO overlay to mount these when they came, it appears I won't.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=258831;image)
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I have an obviously newbie question regarding this.
A lot of cabinets have a seperate 4-way stick for some games, in addition to having the usual two 8-way sticks. Will using this essentially eliminate the need to buy / implement a seperate 4-way joystick in my cabinet, and instead implement a few buttons to control the switching? I'm currently building my first cab and still designing the control panel. The less joysticks I have to have on it the better (in theory I suppose)
Thanks in advance
This does eliminate this requirement. So the cabinet can be as per an original which of course would not have that extra stick. There is no need for any additional buttons to switch, although you could have if you wanted to. The best way though would be to configure your front end to perform the switchover then it would be totally automatic.
Oh, excellent! Thanks for the speedy reply. Once i've nutted out my control panel design these will likely be the sticks I use.
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I am excited for the U360 mod.
In fact if you sell a U360, with the servo, hollow shaft with rotating connector for top-fire and LED, and a rotation optical kit, you can just have my money. All of it.
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Just got mine in, will report back after I get them mounted (might take awhile, I have to route the panel. Thanks for the quick turn around on my order.
Now I'm off to find some hollow JLW shafts :dunno
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Now I'm off to find some hollow JLW shafts :dunno
If you find them, let me know. I emailed Andy separately and he said they are 10mm in diameter, in both the visible and non-visible sections, and that this is different from Sanwa.
I'd like to figure out an RGB balltop solution somehow.
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They work great, but the mode is backwards. I have probably done something wrong, 4 makes it 8, and 8 makes it 4.
When it's set to 4, the lever is towards the motor side, is this right?
This isn't affecting its use in any way. I simply tell 4-way games to run 8-way, and vice versa, I'm more worried I've mounted the motor wrong.
I will Frosti, ditto if you find them.
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Just reverse the wires and that should fix it...
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I didn't know how it knows it's at the end of the movement, so I didn't want to just start flipping wires around and maybe burn something out.
I suspect it's a current draw thing, so it shouldn't matter, but I didn't want to take any chances.
On a side note, wouldn't sleeving my current JLF hollow shafts get them to the proper size? I just was thinking, because those might be easier to find, the hardest parts have been done, the threads, clip-end, hole down the middle, now it pretty much just a width problem. The lengths are the same right?
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For the people who requested a way of switching the stick between 4 and 8 way with a switch or buttons rather than from a PC this is now implemented.
The control board can be set to "hardware mode" using the test utility. Then 2 buttons or a toggle switch can be wired up, to switch 4-8 way. The page www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html (http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html) has been updated.
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The lastest version of LEDBlinky (5.1) now supports the ServoStik. ServoStik(s) will be switched to 4-way mode for 2-way and 4-way games, all other games will switch to 8-way.
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So has this been adapted to U360 sticks yet? Seems like it should bolt right on. Do you sell just the motor and restrictor plate for those of us looking to upgrade sticks we already own?
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[...]this will also work with the Ultrastik 360 giving a fully contactless joystick with mapping AND mechanical restriction. Again, thats down the line.
:woot
I sincerely hope this means that availability of a retrofit kit for U360s is imminent! After long periods each of no restrictor, and then the round restrictor, I finally put the 4/8-way restrictor on mine, because I decided that, for me, there is just no substitution for the feel of actual restricted movement. That being said, it is an inelegant pain to have to switch it back and forth manually, so this looks to be the perfect solution for me!
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Yes we will be offering an upgrade kit. The reason we have not done this yet is we dont yet have a mass-produced restrictor on the Servostik, each one requires some hand machining.
But we have a large number of these on the way and should be available in a couple of weeks.
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Just ordered a pair of sticks & 1 driver board. I'm looking forward to top-switchable 4-way/8-way (via 2 buttons that I'll implement on top of my panel) sticks that have a longer throw than the 2 Magstik Plus sticks that I've been using for years! :]
Thanks,
-Jason
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Just ordered a pair of sticks & 1 driver board. I'm looking forward to top-switchable 4-way/8-way (via 2 buttons that I'll implement on top of my panel) sticks that have a longer throw than the 2 Magstik Plus sticks that I've been using for years! :]
Thanks,
-Jason
---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, the only thing I loved about the T-sticks was the throw. The microswitch resistance blew, though. I wonder whether this could be fitted to a Wico....
Looking foward to your review.
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Just ordered a pair of sticks & 1 driver board. I'm looking forward to top-switchable 4-way/8-way (via 2 buttons that I'll implement on top of my panel) sticks that have a longer throw than the 2 Magstik Plus sticks that I've been using for years! :]
Thanks,
-Jason
Are you using these on a mame cabinet? If so it's a piece of cake getting it set up to read the controls.dat and have them switch based upon the game that is launched.
good day.
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Are you using these on a mame cabinet? If so it's a piece of cake getting it set up to read the controls.dat and have them switch based upon the game that is launched.
MAME cab indeed. Piece of cake? Not for a mechanical engineer. I use AutoHotKey & .BAT files to manage my launching of MAME (multiple revs w/ multiple arguments, depending on game) & DAPHNE from a single MaLa front end--can one of these existing tools be used to read the controls.dat file & move the restrictor accordingly? Are all controls.dat entries correct? I recall some being incorrect...(?) Can somebody spoonfeed this piece of cake? This is over my head... :-[
Thanks,
-Jason
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From Ultimac's site you can get the little piece of software called joytray. With that you can just use F4 (4-way) or F8 (8-way) in addition to that you can add the argument for the joytray exe for each mode to your files. For my purpose (mame'd space invaders cocktail) I used a pair of sticks, joytray.exe and this plug-in http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113162.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,113162.0.html) with mala to read the control.dat and launch the appropriate argument upon game start. Now my setup is only being used on a vertical screen with cocktail flipping so I'm only dealing with maybe 60 games.
good day.
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MAME cab indeed. Piece of cake? Not for a mechanical engineer. I use AutoHotKey & .BAT files to manage my launching of MAME (multiple revs w/ multiple arguments, depending on game) & DAPHNE from a single MaLa front end--can one of these existing tools be used to read the controls.dat file & move the restrictor accordingly? Are all controls.dat entries correct? I recall some being incorrect...(?) Can somebody spoonfeed this piece of cake? This is over my head... :-[
Thanks,
-Jason
The lastest version of LEDBlinky (5.1) now supports the ServoStik. ServoStik(s) will be switched to 4-way mode for 2-way and 4-way games, all other games will switch to 8-way.
How's that for cake? LEDBlinky is an amazing tool.
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Just remember that those read the XML, or perhaps a controls.ini, to switch, and are not likely accurate for all games.
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Just ordered a pair of sticks & 1 driver board. I'm looking forward to top-switchable 4-way/8-way (via 2 buttons that I'll implement on top of my panel) sticks that have a longer throw than the 2 Magstik Plus sticks that I've been using for years! :]
Looking foward to your review.
Thanks for the software tips, guys, & thanks for looking forward to my review, Gray_Area, but you guys are talking to the guy who bought Aimtraks 3 years ago & hasn't gotten around to setting them up yet...the guy whose CP Wizard never did get set up 100% correctly...the guy who has to go back & fix his spinner & steering wheel & trackball mapping...in short, don't hold your collective breath! (Hence my assumption that I'd just throw 4-way/8-way switches onto my control panel instead of setting up software--that's waaaay easier for me!)
Back on topic, I did receive the sticks (and a spinner steering wheel) super duper fast (from England to California!), and my cursory glance in the boxes reveals what looks to be a swell product. That's the extent of my review for now, and for who knows how long... :\
Thanks,
-Jason
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I received mine a week ago and had to sand the restrictors because they were too big. Building quality wasn't that good to be true. Andy did a research and it seems that the base of newer jlw is different by a millimetre. He will get new restrictors that will fit perfectly.
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I just admire the attention to detail that Andy puts in his products and when it's not right he's there to make it right. It's great to have his continued presence on these boards.
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I received mine a week ago and had to sand the restrictors because they were too big. Building quality wasn't that good to be true. Andy did a research and it seems that the base of newer jlw is different by a millimetre. He will get new restrictors that will fit perfectly.
Thats correct, but in fact the difference is 0.2mm
We are getting the mold modified and may need to scrap 1000 restrictors. Sometimes I wish we sold software :)
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Starting my planning for building my first cabinet and saw these joysticks. Is it possible to get them in oval top instead of ball top?
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Starting my planning for building my first cabinet and saw these joysticks. Is it possible to get them in oval top instead of ball top?
Yes we have oval top in black or red.
Andy
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You may take a look at the washers and the springs as well. Sometimes it just happens that the springs slip through the washers and the restrictors get stuck. I had to bent the spring at the base.
With the right tools and some time I don't think you'll have to throw away all the restrictors. That would be too bad!
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(http://www.industrial-springs.com/media/56875/term_konisk_spc_500x333.jpg)
Some conical compression springs would solve that issue.
good day.
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Starting my planning for building my first cabinet and saw these joysticks. Is it possible to get them in oval top instead of ball top?
To elaborate on andy's reply. You wont get the option to choose what type of top when ordering (servostik only comes with red ball top). You can order the extra tops at the same time. BUT.... that brings up another issue. "Black Oval-Top (NOTE: 8 mm thread) " so since the servostik shaft is 6mm you will need to snag these http://www.fgsupply.com/6000-6999-Thread_insert_M8_M6_2pcs..html (http://www.fgsupply.com/6000-6999-Thread_insert_M8_M6_2pcs..html) to use on the 8mm oval-top.
*****EDIT***** I SUCK!!!!!!.... When I ordered mine there was no option for the tops. Just checked and apparently that changed. **************
carry on....
good day.
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Starting my planning for building my first cabinet and saw these joysticks. Is it possible to get them in oval top instead of ball top?
To elaborate on andy's reply. You wont get the option to choose what type of top when ordering (servostik only comes with red ball top). You can order the extra tops at the same time. BUT.... that brings up another issue. "Black Oval-Top (NOTE: 8 mm thread) " so since the servostik shaft is 6mm you will need to snag these http://www.fgsupply.com/6000-6999-Thread_insert_M8_M6_2pcs..html (http://www.fgsupply.com/6000-6999-Thread_insert_M8_M6_2pcs..html) to use on the 8mm oval-top.
*****EDIT***** I SUCK!!!!!!.... When I ordered mine there was no option for the tops. Just checked and apparently that changed. **************
carry on....
good day.
We were likely just out of stock of the oval at that time.
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Andy-
I'm going to get around to installing my ServoStiks in Hardware Mode shortly & have one question on your instructions that I find a bit confusing:
When I think of buttons, I assume momentary, not latching. When I think of a toggle switch, I assume latching, not momentary.
Having said that, does the shorting of wires need to be momentary or latching, or does it not matter?
Thank you,
-Jason
PS--upon further readings of your site, you mention that one can use an I-PAC shifted button combination to activate the 4-way or 8-way mode. That implies that one can use a momentary NO button. As such, I'll be able to implement a couple of momentary admin buttons on my cabinet to perform the switch in Hardware Mode. Still, out of curiosity, if one were to use a toggle switch, that would certainly be a latching switch, unless you were referring to a 3-position switch that was spring-loaded to "neutral" & could momentarily close in either direction before returning to neutral. It sounds as if momentary or "permanent" shortings to ground will work. Versatile! :]
"
Switching between 4 and 8 way is done using either two buttons or a toggle switch.
To connect the buttons, cut the A plug from the USB cable and strip the wires.
Connect the RED wire to a 5 volt source. (JAMMA power supply for example)
Connect the BLACK wire to Ground on the power supply
Connect the Green wire to the NO contact of a pushbutton for 4 way
Connect the White wire to the NO contact of a pushbutton for 8 way
Connect the COM connections of both buttons to the black daisy-chain wire which runs to all other controls, or to the power supply ground.
Alternatively you can use a toggle switch with the center connection to ground and the end connections to the green and white wires.
"
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Big long-winded review of ServoStiks just posted in the Reviews forum. :]
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132157.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,132157.0.html)
Thanks,
-Jason
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Andy-
I'm going to get around to installing my ServoStiks in Hardware Mode shortly & have one question on your instructions that I find a bit confusing:
When I think of buttons, I assume momentary, not latching. When I think of a toggle switch, I assume latching, not momentary.
Having said that, does the shorting of wires need to be momentary or latching, or does it not matter?
Thank you,
-Jason
PS--upon further readings of your site, you mention that one can use an I-PAC shifted button combination to activate the 4-way or 8-way mode. That implies that one can use a momentary NO button. As such, I'll be able to implement a couple of momentary admin buttons on my cabinet to perform the switch in Hardware Mode. Still, out of curiosity, if one were to use a toggle switch, that would certainly be a latching switch, unless you were referring to a 3-position switch that was spring-loaded to "neutral" & could momentarily close in either direction before returning to neutral. It sounds as if momentary or "permanent" shortings to ground will work. Versatile! :]
"
Switching between 4 and 8 way is done using either two buttons or a toggle switch.
To connect the buttons, cut the A plug from the USB cable and strip the wires.
Connect the RED wire to a 5 volt source. (JAMMA power supply for example)
Connect the BLACK wire to Ground on the power supply
Connect the Green wire to the NO contact of a pushbutton for 4 way
Connect the White wire to the NO contact of a pushbutton for 8 way
Connect the COM connections of both buttons to the black daisy-chain wire which runs to all other controls, or to the power supply ground.
Alternatively you can use a toggle switch with the center connection to ground and the end connections to the green and white wires.
"
The switch can be a toggle which stays closed either way, or pushbuttons which don't stay closed. Either will work.
Andy
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It is a J-Stik (JLW type) essentially, with other parts added. So this means we will be able to supply retro-fit kits. But this will be down the line. Also all accessories for this type of stick can be used.
Andy
I have Ball type J-Sticks.
When the 'retro-fit kit' is available I can apply and add native support for them for MaLa Frontend. ;D
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It is a J-Stik (JLW type) essentially, with other parts added. So this means we will be able to supply retro-fit kits. But this will be down the line. Also all accessories for this type of stick can be used.
Andy
I have Ball type J-Sticks.
When the 'retro-fit kit' is available I can apply and add native support for them for MaLa Frontend. ;D
OK I ordered 1.. I could not resist :-)
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Has anybody determined the current requirements for the USB source that's powering the ServoStik servos?
I'm currently using a Belkin F5U027, which used a 4 A power supply:
http://www.belkin.com/pyramid/documents/external/PB_F5U027.pdf (http://www.belkin.com/pyramid/documents/external/PB_F5U027.pdf)
I'd like to free up one of those "smart" slots on my USB hub & use a "dumb" AC-USB adapter (like the stump that plugs into the wall for a cell phone charger). I have AC-USB adapters that go as high as 1 A, but when I hit the button to rotate the restrictor (I'm using hardware mode), I get no motion--if I listen closely, I hear a super faint whine.
1 amp seems to be insufficient. 4 amps seems to be plenty. Anybody have any intermediate data points to find the threshold?
Thanks,
-Jason
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How have I not noticed this before? Bloody brilliant! When I get back home in a week imma see if I have the right sort of sticks. Might get an upgrade (",)
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Has anybody determined the current requirements for the USB source that's powering the ServoStik servos?
USB ports are rated at 500mA and they are designed to work with this amount of current. In fact the motor is limited to around 400mA. If it rises above this the controller assumes it has reached the end of travel and cuts out. If the restrictor is not completely switching this needs to be looked into. We changed the dimensions of the restrictor since the first batch of these to prevent binding.
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Just checked mine. They are listed as Sanwa JS01 from the guys I bought them from. Is this the same as the JLW? Looks a hell of a lot like it.
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Just checked mine. They are listed as Sanwa JS01 from the guys I bought them from. Is this the same as the JLW? Looks a hell of a lot like it.
Looks like it to me too.
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Just checked mine. They are listed as Sanwa JS01 from the guys I bought them from. Is this the same as the JLW? Looks a hell of a lot like it.
Looks like it to me too.
Good enough for me! Imma order one soon (",)
Edit: Nuts, looks like I need 27mm free space on one side, and I've only got 22 :( The side of the control panel is thisk MDF so I might be able to carve out some space, but that's a lot of work. On the plus side, if ever I build another cab, I'll be sure to make room for these :)