Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: Novocaine on July 28, 2012, 11:55:11 pm
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Hey everyone, I'm sure you get plenty of questions like this but I've been Googling for days trying to find an answer to this and the more I search the more confused I get. I'm trying to get a Donkey Kong PCB working in a Popeye cabinet. First, I'll start by saying that Popeye runs perfectly so there shouldn't be any issues with the cabinet itself. My understanding is that the power supply may need to be changed for Donkey Kong but I want to make sure before I buy anything new. I'm using a 2-board PCB as shown here (http://i.imgur.com/kxyd2.jpg).
Where my problem starts, though, is that I've seen Donkey Kong PCBs set up using the edge connector and others set up with the wires running directly to the ports on the PCB. And I'm not completely sure how to tell which one applies in what situation. As shown above, the Donkey Kong baord does have all the P1, P2, etc ports present as opposed to my Popeye PCB in which the ports are absent. I've tried connecting the Donkey Kong PCB with the Popeye wire harness through the edge connector but nothing happens except for a small beep when the machine turns on. So am I correct in saying that I have a board that requires the wires to be connected directly to the PCB instead of the edge connector? And is there any place that sells this type of wiring harness? The harness being sold on ArcadeShop.com doesn't look like it can hook directly to the ports on the board. Would dismantling the current wire harness give me what I needed to hook up the Donkey Kong board? I'd like to avoid this if possible but whatever works.
Thanks for any assistance!
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Sorry to double post, but after looking into it some more I guess I have a simpler question. Can a Donkey Kong PCB be run through an edge connector? And if not, can the Popeye edge connector harness be easily dismantled to work with the Donkey Kong PCB?
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You do know that you'll need to rotate the monitor right?
Check out this post (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=224615) and this one (http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=98&CBT=312) for some good information.
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Sorry to double post, but after looking into it some more I guess I have a simpler question. Can a Donkey Kong PCB be run through an edge connector?
Yes, but you will need an adapter. You can get this from Arcadeshop (http://www.arcadeshop.com/parts.htm#JAMMA) for $35.
(http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/nintendo_pass_through_adapter.jpg)
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You do know that you'll need to rotate the monitor right?
Yeah, that's all been done but thanks. Just throwing in what I've come up with in case someone else finds this useful. I did need a new power supply in order to get DK running since the Popeye one uses different voltages. Other than that everything seems to work right off the bat, but the power supply thing had me on a wild goose chase for some other type of problem.
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Okay, so I'm still stumped but on a totally different problem. Firstly, I'm using the Donkey Kong power supply conversion kit from ArcadeShop.com to get my Donkey Kong PCB working in my Popeye cabinet. As of now, all I've done is disconnect the old power supply and connect the new power supply according to the instructions here (http://arcadeshop.com/nin-ps/nin-ps.htm). For those not familiar with the conversion power supply, it has a red light on it that verifies a good connection. When the harness is not connected (Meaning the 9P and 10P are disconnected) the light comes on, but once the harness is connected (Regardless of whether or not the PCB is connected) the light doesn't come on. This led me to believe there was a short circuit in the PCB, but after replacing the board with one I can verify works, the problem persists. So obviously something is stopping the connection from completing but I can't figure out what.
I might add that using the old Popeye power supply to try to run Donkey Kong produces a blue screen (As opposed to a white screen with the new power supply) which after looking at this thread (http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-82049.html) I believe is a result of the lower voltage.
I understand that the Popeye harness is lacking the +12 and -5 V pins on the wiring harness so I've tried running wires from the new power supply to the 5, 6, E, and F ports on the edge connector but I don't know if this has anything to do with my current issue.