Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: DeLuSioNal29 on July 20, 2012, 10:14:37 pm
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Hi all,
I was doing some research on how to splice a power supply and came across this interesting tutorial on how to change your PC power supply into and arcade power supply. Just thought I'd share.
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/PowerSupply.htm (http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/PowerSupply.htm)
DeLuSioNaL29
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Nice one, thanks for the share.
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bookmarked :cheers:
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Before you jump in on that....
http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=647&CBT=4 (http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=647&CBT=4)
Then there's the -5v rail if your board needs it. I remember a really great post somewhere about this -5v rail but I can't seem to find it (or I'm too lazy I guess). But from what I recall, even the cheapest PSU from Happs Controls offers about 1A on the -5V rail. Looking at the cheapest PSU at newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817822014), there is no -5V rail. Checking out a pricy $300+ model with a whopping six different +12v rails and ZERO -5v rails.
Not saying every board requires -5v, but if you need it... well, you're still SOL I guess.
I hacked a older PC PSU and I don't really use it for much on my test bench. There are limitations to what you can do, even with a PC PSU and various combinations of your 3.3, 5, and 12v rails. It's probably to do with the fact that I don't really like mucking with circuits plugged into the wall, even if it's through a transformer.
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I use an ATX PSU on my wiring bench for a -5v, 5v and 12v source for powering/testing various looms etc but I wouldn't suggest using one as a power source for arcade boards.
I say this because that type of PSU has no control for the 5v which tends to need to be tweaked to suit each PCB due to the rise/fall in voltage due to the current draw of different boards. Running a PCB with the 5v too high or low can cause issues when running the game or could even potentially damage it.
In regards to the -5v:
Pin 20 (formerly −5 V, white wire) is absent in current power supplies; it was optional in ATX and ATX12V ver. 1.2, and deleted as of ver. 1.3.
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i would have to agree with franco. i have heard of MK being one board that is real picky bout the -5 being set just right. but dam where was this link when i was wanting to make sure the monitor not working was a monitor problem and not a psu problem.
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Thanks for the caution, I'll stick with the real deal.
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Using two of those, one for my rotation motors and the other for my LEDS.