Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: tony.silveira on July 15, 2012, 02:02:24 pm
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hey guys,
hoping someone on here who has some machining experience could help me out. i picked up an acftuator that has a 4" throw but i'm going to need about 6-7". the guy i bought it from said i could just replace the lead screw and that mcmaster carr would be the place to go. unfortunately, i am a bit lost on that site and on the specs of teh screw that is in the actuator.
would anyone be willing to help me find an appropriate replacement lead screw? doesn't have to be exactly 7", i could go longer and then just cut off what i dont need. my actuator model number is: OSLV Italia A9908022 and here is a pic of it: http://www.automationnow.com/store/index.html (http://www.automationnow.com/store/index.html)
really appreciate any help i get!
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Could you just use a (whats the word Im looking for?) fulcrum?
A lever with the pivot hole more towards the actuator end, it would amplify the stroke distance but the power would be cut back some.
(Man hope there are no perverts on here.) LOL
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Could you just use a (whats the word Im looking for?) fulcrum?
A lever with the pivot hole more towards the actuator end, it would amplify the stroke distance but the power would be cut back some.
(Man hope there are no perverts on here.) LOL
That or a pulley configured for 2:1 (Assuming the actuator is rated for more than double the weight you have to move.)
What exactly are you trying to do with it and how much space do you have to work with?
Scott
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thats why i love these boards, i would never have thought of either of those ideas, thank you guys.
if you check my project in my sig and scroll thru, you'll see a box that i manually pull from the front of my panel and snap a wheel onto. i would like the actuator to push this out and need about 6" of throw. the space i have to work with would be the inside of my panel. i don't have much room up from my retractable spinner box since the buttons are right over it. but any space along the bottom, base of the panel, should be up for grabs.
i do like the fulcrum idea. if i can get this to work, i would like to add a second wheel/spinner for player two and it would be simple enough to add another fulcrum and have the same actuator push both out.
but please, keep up the suggestions!
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Here's a top view using the lever idea to push out both wheel attachment bases. (light blue)
Mount both bases onto 1 board (gray) with enough length and width to prevent it from twisting out of alignment and jamming. Under the board place drawer sliders (green).
Mount the actuator body (red) and shaft (blue) to the lever arms. (tan)
Ensure that even with the actuator at full extension there is still a little bend in the lever arms so they don't lock up when you retract it.
Make an offset mount similar to this using a plate on on either side of the actuator mount point. Instead of the U-shape shown, connect the side plates to the lever arm. this way, the actuator is pushing straight into the lever arm. Alternate method - sandwich a spacer on the back pivot, the actuator mount, and the front arm (right half of the tan part) between two identical back arm layers. (left half of the tan part)
(http://a.pololu-files.com/picture/0J3898.200.jpg?a64c37363801149e9d26639458ca8bba)
Pivot point is centered between the wheel attachment bases, back pivot point is centered behind the front.
Scott
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PL1 wow! thanks man!
but crap, the more i think about this, the more i need a longer screw in the actuator itself.
if you look at my project and see the current manual pull out, you'll see that when it's extended, it actually tilts up and is at an angle to make the wheel more ergo for the user. so, i may just have to go with a longer screw.
the thought is to have the slide out box on some kind of track. if you look at the current pull out, on the side, top edge of the box is a metal pin. this metal pin would keep the box from fully extending out. the actuator screw would connect and push from the bottom of the box. as it extends out, that pin catches, the bottom gets pushed out a bit, raising the box into the angle i want.
so, unfortunately, i'm back to square one, trying to find a longer screw.
but wait a sec, on the fulcrum arms, i guess i could put a couple of small bars that would push the box out from the front of the panel.
ok, i guess i better just dig into this and try to make a mock up...
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the thought is to have the slide out box on some kind of track.
You mean like the drawer sliders (green) in the diagram? Pic related. (http://www.lowes.com/pd_89226-89973-P1029/24-2C_0__?productId=3060725)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=121454.0;attach=187457;image)
if you look at my project and see the current manual pull out, you'll see that when it's extended, it actually tilts up and is at an angle to make the wheel more ergo for the user. so, i may just have to go with a longer screw.
The extend/tilt and longer screw aren't related. Put a hinge/pivot on the back of the wheel mount (light blue), pins on the side, and a curved metal ramp over wood mounted to the front panel for the tilt.
if you look at the current pull out, on the side, top edge of the box is a metal pin. this metal pin would keep the box from fully extending out. the actuator screw would connect and push from the bottom of the box. as it extends out, that pin catches, the bottom gets pushed out a bit, raising the box into the angle i want.
The distance from the top point of the lever arm "A" that the actuator is mounted combined with the length of the lever (legs of the "A"), will set the extension distance and the actuator will lock it in place so the stop pin isn't needed.
but wait a sec, on the fulcrum arms, i guess i could put a couple of small bars that would push the box out from the front of the panel.
You mean like the way the wheel mounts (light blue) hang off the front of the moving base. (gray) :banghead:
Scott
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i can be an idiot sometimes, thanks for the clarification!