Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: astroone on July 11, 2012, 04:57:51 pm
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I got some cheap joy pad's on ebay But I am having trouble getting the solder to stick
Am guessing the pcb was dipped in wax coating anyone know how I can clean these board's to make the solder to stick
Thank's
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What kind of solder are you using? The soldering Iron would melt any coating on them I believe. My first guess is that the issue isn't a coating but you are not heating the pads up before applying the solder. Hold the iron to the pad on the controller for a few seconds before trying to apply any solder. Also, where are you attempting to solder on the board? Any pictures?
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Wax coating? You talking about the conductive black paint? You need to get that off the contact. I use a Dremel with wire wheel to do that, then clean with alcohol, then solder.
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Wax coating? You talking about the conductive black paint? You need to get that off the contact. I use a Dremel with wire wheel to do that, then clean with alcohol, then solder.
I should get a wire wheel for my dremel to do just that, removing material from a pcb.
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This happened to me once on a harley wiring harnass, refused to stick, not for the lack of trying however and finally got some heat damage.
at the time Jen thought oil or something on the wire, But now today Im not so sure.... This could have been wire/solder incompatability I spose.
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I did tried to heat the contact first it just seem's the solder wouldn't hold for some reason I did use the same solder on a previous joypad with no problem's like I said it was a cheap joypad less than $3
I might try the dremel and see if I get different result's on the contact's
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There are different kinds of solder, very often, PCB's that have been manufactured use a very different solder than what you can get at radio shack, and the two don't work well together (ie they don't stick).
I've found the best solution to that is to buy a tub of Solder flux (radio shack DOES carry that).
Clean the pad, dab on a good bit of flux, make sure the iron is hot, touch the iron to the pad with the flux, and touch the solder to the iron and let it flow to the pad.
I've had probs like this, esp when trying to solder to the end contacts of batteries (ie when replacing batteries in shavers or cordless phones with home built AA packs).
Even if your solder says that it is "solder and flux" together, I've found it's usually not enough flux to let the solder really stick.
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As they said in soldering school, "Flux it up"
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There are different kinds of solder, very often, PCB's that have been manufactured use a very different solder than what you can get at radio shack, and the two don't work well together (ie they don't stick).
I've found the best solution to that is to buy a tub of Solder flux (radio shack DOES carry that).
Clean the pad, dab on a good bit of flux, make sure the iron is hot, touch the iron to the pad with the flux, and touch the solder to the iron and let it flow to the pad.
I've had probs like this, esp when trying to solder to the end contacts of batteries (ie when replacing batteries in shavers or cordless phones with home built AA packs).
Even if your solder says that it is "solder and flux" together, I've found it's usually not enough flux to let the solder really stick.
this, also if you have old solder the flux gets all crystally and doesn't work properly when melted. I had a hell of a time trying to solder some wires used in an automotive application. the wire was hot as hell and i could actually melt the solder by touching the solder to the wire...BUT WOULD NOT STICK. Used a little flux and it sucked right on there no problem.
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Flux is always a great tool to have along side your soldering iron, I have a bunch of different types and find the Flux Pens to be damned handy (and cheap).
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the board is varnished? sometimes they apply varnish for protection.
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I wouldn't necessarily expect it on a cheap board, but it could be a "conformal coating" (or "varnish" as MadMagpie suggested). I used to develop test programs for circuit cards from naval gun systems and those boards were HEAVILY conformal coated (salt water and electronics don't mix well). If you were probing with a sharp probe you could just crunch the tip through it, but if you needed to attach a clip or replace a part you had to scrape that crap off with an exacto knife. So, if you really think there's a coating, try scraping it off. Then, +1 to the flux suggestion. Even rosin core solder dries out over time so it's good to have some flux handy. I have a flux pen and a needle-tip squeeze bottle depending on the situation.
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Got Some Flux from radio shack
Solder is now sticking to the pcb
Thank You
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BOOYA! I love when this forum produces results for people, I know it's helped me quite a bit as well. :cheers: cheers mate