Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: moknitro on May 10, 2012, 07:33:16 pm
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I'm planning on starting my first Arcade control by converting a Logitech PC controller. I'll try and keep my questions to this thread as I'm sure more will arise the further I go into it. I've checked out the site and done a fair bit of research too.
First newbie question...
What size spade bit would I use for 30mm nutted Sanwa buttons? Is the 30mm an overall diameter or the size hole I need? I'd just measure it, but I'm waiting on buttons to turn up first and want to get the spade bits on the way too.
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You'll need 30mm holes.
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Thank you!
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Newbie question number two!
I've got my controller's PCB (Logitech USB PC controller) plugged in and I'm testing buttons with a multimeter. I'm getting a reading but it doesn't seem to be activating as a button press. I'm using Project64's button mapping to check. Should it be recognising or should I not be using a multimeter to press the buttons?
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I never tried it, but I don't think a multimeter's voltage read setting will activate a button press.
Since button presses are human control and on as long as a human holds down the button, you can use a normal wire to activate the button press. Just be careful. (And use an insulated wire, not a bare one. Just a little bit of insulation shaved off of the ends.)
If you want to use the multimeter (for use of the leads/ease of contacting the right spots), put it in the amp measuring setting and try it again. This SHOULD work.
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Thanks for your help, I'll give both methods a go. This is my first time doing anything like this really.
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Get it to work?
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I never tried it, but I don't think a multimeter's voltage read setting will activate a button press.
Since button presses are human control and on as long as a human holds down the button, you can use a normal wire to activate the button press. Just be careful. (And use an insulated wire, not a bare one. Just a little bit of insulation shaved off of the ends.)
If you want to use the multimeter (for use of the leads/ease of contacting the right spots), put it in the amp measuring setting and try it again. This SHOULD work.
You should not need to set it to amperage because there should already be voltage on the line since when pressing the button the current travels to the ground. I've got no experience with said controllers so I couldn't tell you whether exactly what to expect but if you wired it correctly, I would expect a function press. So I wouldn't use the multimeter and would instead rely on what the computer is telling you. If it doesn't read an input, it's not working IMO.
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I use these controllers a lot. I can get them pretty cheap.
There must be a solid connection made between these two maze like points to equal a button press. There is no setting on a multimeter that can accomplish this.I solder on a wire to each of the little silver pads and a wire on the ground. Check out my build logs for these small bartop arcades when you get a chance.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0572.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0573.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0634.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0631.jpg)
Hopefully this helps and that I didn't just spam your post. If you believe I spammed it I will delete the post. Good luck.
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That's the K8, G, K6 part you're talking about when you mention the silver pads?
I haven't had a chance to try anything yet (as I've barely been home in the last three days). But at least my buttons and joystick showed up!
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I'm planning on starting my first Arcade control by converting a Logitech PC controller. I'll try and keep my questions to this thread as I'm sure more will arise the further I go into it. I've checked out the site and done a fair bit of research too.
First newbie question...
What size spade bit would I use for 30mm nutted Sanwa buttons? Is the 30mm an overall diameter or the size hole I need? I'd just measure it, but I'm waiting on buttons to turn up first and want to get the spade bits on the way too.
1-1/8"
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Good thing I haven't drilled yet then!
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Yea I use the 1 1/8th bit too.
And not those are the shoulder buttons. The silver pads I speak of are the ones next to the maze like contact.
Here: (don't mind the saw dust)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop-Arcade%20Mark%202/GEDC0496.jpg)
"Button" contact plus the common GROUND equals a button press on the gamepad. Pretty simple if you have basic electronics background.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/USBGamepadhelp.jpg)
The "GROUND" connection can be anywhere on the board to solder from.
The daisy chain the ground connection to all the button switches.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/arcade-ms-cherry63-d44x.jpg)
Here shows only the ground connected to all button switches.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0645.jpg)
And then here is that with all the "button" contacts soldered on.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0646.jpg)
I always use terminal strips to connect everything just in case I need to change something.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/corydrippon/Bartop%20Arcade%20Mark%202%20-%20Build%20logs/GEDC0639.jpg)
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Yeah I understand the button/ground logic. I got a piece of wire and tested the buttons and that worked. So at least I know the controller works. Got a set of digital vernier calipers onto the buttons and it appears a 28mm (1-1/8) should be right for a 30mm button. I'm in Australia so metric is more familiar.
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Hope your build turns out well.