Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: not_so_handy on May 10, 2012, 08:28:28 am
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I laminated both the outside and inside of my cabinet. The problem I ran into is where my cp will sit has a 90 degree (almost) inside angle. So when I routed the laminte it left a rounded edge instead of the straight 90 degree edge I had cut out. Whats a best way of finishing that off? Sander? I just dont want to ruin what I have done.
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Pictures would help greatly as I'm having difficulty imagining this especially since when I've routed stuff like this it's usually 90 degrees. Are you talking where the vertical part of the cab meets the horizontal part where your CP sits? If you want truly square in that tight of a space, I'd be looking at either the smallest router flush trim bit you can find or maybe a jig saw and careful hands.
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surprisingly enough I did circle the spot i was refering. I guess I should have used a thicker brush :)
(http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7417/laminateissue.jpg)
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here is a close up. I am not sure do people just leave it. Its not that bad. I may have to test putting my cp on it. I just havent put it back together since laminating
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/3835/capture2bi.jpg)
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Yeah, your best bet is either a really small flush trim bit/dremmel bit or a jig saw for as close to straight as you can. Honestly, I think you'll be fine but to each their own.
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Coping saw with a fine blade, hacksaw with a diamond blade, or a REALLY sharp chisel.
Coping Saw:
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6865-6-3-4-Inch-Coping/dp/B000NPUKSO/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1336667166&sr=1-4 (http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6865-6-3-4-Inch-Coping/dp/B000NPUKSO/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1336667166&sr=1-4)
hacksaw blade:
http://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tools-Tungsten-Carbide-Blade/dp/B000BPDBKU (http://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tools-Tungsten-Carbide-Blade/dp/B000BPDBKU)
AJ
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I used a file for similar prob I had on my cab.
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I'd definitely use a file.
If you try to square-off a laminate corner with a saw there is a very good chance of cracking/chipping;
I say this from experience. They sell laminate files everywhere (and they do work) but a normal fine file will also do.
Practice on a spare piece of laminate and then go slow - I'd even suggest some painter's tape on the surrounding
laminate in case os slips.
Breaker.
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This is where a little research would have dug up this problem in advance. Hint: Look at CNC machines and the tricks to get around this issue. (http://blog.makezine.com/2012/04/13/cnc-panel-joinery-notebook/)
I'm assuming that your planned CP is the wing-style that overhangs the side of the cab? If so, then plan B is simple. Well... easier said than done I suppose depending on your design. Use the CP to hide any defects from your attempt at "squaring off" that corner or adding divots positioned to be hidden. Read the article link above on "Laser vs. Rotary Cutters – The Inside Corner Problem" to see what I mean.
Just a suggestion, take it or leave it. :dunno
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You can fie it, or sand it or chisel it square...
Or you can hit the control panel with a 1/8" fillet bit.... ;)
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+1 on the file suggestions. I'd be afraid of chipping with any power tools, and a file would make short work of that corner.
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i think I will try using a file and see how that works. I really dont want to crack the laminate.
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One more bit of advice on this. The up and down motion of the file sometimes makes the laminate want to pull away from the substrate underneath. Putting clamps on either side of the area ur working on will help to minimize that.
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ALWAYS USE A FILE.
It's what kitchen countertop guys use and they deal with this everyday. Forget about any other way. As mentioned, stroke downward as though you're pushing the laminate into the wood so it doesn't chip or lift up.
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thanks guys for all the tips. I really didnt want to wreck all this nice progress. :) I will be going with the file and in the direction of the wood so I dont pull the laminate away from the wood and crack it.