Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Santoro on April 07, 2012, 09:06:06 pm
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I applied my t-molding with a rubber mallet and I realized later that it is pretty lumpy and uneven - See the attached pic. I also scratched it in some places so I want to start again.
I have never removed T-molding from MDF before, and I can't seem to find too much info here either. (I may just stink at search... dunno.) Anyway, if I choose to try and redo it will I have a problem with the new stuff being loose? What is the best way to apply it so that it is not so lumpy?
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Try tapping those high spots with your mallet to see if it smooths out.
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I'm with nep, more tapping is called for. Those high spots you can rub out with some light mallet work.
Heh, rub out.
If you do feel you need to remove you can usually do one slow remove on MDF before you channel is all chewed and won't hold. A squirt of some silicone in the channel on a reapply with get you fixt if necessary.
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Also, I usually use an old t-shirt in between the the mallet and the t-molding. This prevents most marks and such.
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I had exactly the same problem (chrome T-molding in my case). I used a rubber mallet with towels to protect the T-Molding, then eventually I just attached the towels to the mallet using zip ties around the handle. Big 'ole towel mallet. I had no idea the T-molding would be so difficult, especially since I was just replacing existing so the channels were already there and previously used. I just kept leaning into it, applying pressure while moving the mallet. I'd say it got a lot better but still has some "lumpyness" that I don't like.
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6" or so chunk of 2x4 to spread the malletizing out?
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I did that at one point, I will try the mallet directly next. I sort of thought using it directly was causing the issue originally. I'll be a little more aggressive with it and see what happens.
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Also, I usually use an old t-shirt in between the the mallet and the t-molding. This prevents most marks and such.
That's funny. Digging through my dad's old trunk (1950ish??) I found a mallet that could be taken apart and reconfigured. In it's current state, it was sheathed (for lack of a better word) with an outer shell of leather, followed by a layer of fine sawdust, followed by the wood mallet head with a heavy metal (lead?) core. There were other parts, such as another leather cover sans sawdust and a metal plate and a few other parts. I have never seen anything like it since and I honestly can't fathom what it could be used for unless it meant to be used on finished woods. Pegs perhaps?
Anyhow, I digress. Since you're (@OP) is already using a rubber mallet, it might be too small of an area you're striking. Try spreading the force out a bit. An old trick would be to use a shaped piece of wood. I would select a nice piece that's nice and thin (1/2" or thicker), wide on one side about... 4" or so?, narrower on other maybe 2" or so.... Ideally, flat on one side and curved on the other, but that would be impossible to find. Then round off all the edges using your router so you don't any sharp edges. Smooth it out with a bit of sandpaper to avoid pointies. Maybe wrap it in a white cloth (an old T-shirt or a tea towel). You place the shaped wood where you want the force to go, then strike the wood with the mallet.
The idea here is that you're shaping the force applied by controlling how much force is applied over how much area. You can position the wood long-ways for long stretches or short ways for tight turns. With a little practice it'll become pretty easy. I've done this a bunch of times using a "sacrificial" piece of wood when I wanted to minimize any damage to whatever I was striking.
6" or so chunk of 2x4 to spread the malletizing out?
Damn, I had to fight with the kids and you beat me to it.
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I just had a thought.... Probably not necessary to ask.
Was the edging reasonably smooth? Clean cut is what I mean.
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Yes - it's perfectly flat/smooth.
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Yes - it's perfectly flat/smooth.
What about inside the channel itself? Did you clean all the crap out?
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hmmmm That might be the issue. If hammering it some more doesn't work, I'll bet there's a bunch of sawdust....
Thanks all - I will report back.
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I have a difficult time trying to find a problem that "more hammering" doesn't fix.
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I have a difficult time trying to find a problem that "more hammering" doesn't fix.
That's what my wife says. >:D
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Some sort of "What kind of potato did you take that picture with?" joke must also be applied here too. >:D Also, why no "after" pictures? :dunno
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I've come across the issue you have and it deals with two things:
- The T-Molding channel not being properly cleared of dust/debris
- The T-Molding channel being improperly routed
If the channel isn't cleaned I would get a compressor with an air nozzle and air blast it out. If you don't have that a can of dust-away (or your favorite computer dust air can) would work too. Slowly remove the T-Molding and blast the air through the channel while you do. This way you can see if the place you're removing that had a bump has stuffs in it. It's also possible that if you got upset while hammering the T-Molding in, you may have damaged the T-Molding.
The T-Molding channel being improperly routed is a different animal all together. I've used third party router bits but always come back to the Whiteside one just because it rocks. When you routed it are you sure you went all the way into the arbor? I've seen people who weren't paying attention and the router drifted out on them and when they got to that place the T-Molding just didn't fit at all.
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I suggest pulling that t-molding out and starting over. Even if you do get it flatter, it will bunch up in other areas as it gets crammed in.
Also I'm assuming you cut out the spine to make it go around the corners?
With my white t-molding I just smacked it in with a 16 oz hammer and it looks great. A few scuffs but no eye-sore.
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A shortcut to re-routing the channel is shaving a little bit off the bottom of the t-molding. >:D
It works ok if there are just short spans where the channel isn't deep enough.
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Man, I just love installing t-molding. Even if you get it right, the first time a sharp edge even contemplates touching the stuff after you install it you get marks and dents. I'm pretty convinced the stuff that's being sold today isn't nearly as touch as the old stuff.
:dunno
If it's not all that bad on an old cabinet, I just sand it with 600 grit now and leave it.
I have no doubt in my mind the plastic formulation changed. I still haven't replaced the tmolding on my Hang_On because the closest match in shape is the Nintendo tmolding. From the samples I've obtained, they are unquestionably a different plastic formulation.
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I can cut the new stuff with my fingernail when you get right down to it. Not possible with the older stuff.
(http://catehoekstra.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/58660606_26bd9d76a8.jpg)
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^David Lo Pan?
Where the hell is Jack Burton when you need him, I thought we killed this guy already.
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How bout, To Wong Fu, Thanks for Everything, Julie Newmar