The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: Bramlet on January 28, 2012, 03:38:53 pm
-
Well I have been wanting to build an arcade for a few days now and I saw robocop for sale on craigslist for $150 bucks. I just brought her home for $140. She's a little rough around the edges but the game works well. This is my first arcade machine and my first post. I'll have to figure out how to post pictures later. It's got a round marquee.
-
I scored a robocop stand-up back in Nov. for only $100. But $140 is not bad. My only
problem is finding a new cpo. Everything else is good, after a nice coving of paint.
Mm
Out
:afro:
-
Googled it, looks like a pretty cool cabinet design, the rounded marquee does make it stand out.
Robocop arcade (Part 1 of 2). (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYYNB2ras0s#)
-
Gameongrafix has the Dataeast cpo http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/data-east-generic-cpo (http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/data-east-generic-cpo)
Nice score on the robocop cabinet. I love this type of cabinet. My Mame cab is the same kinda cab. I have 2 of these cabinets, one Robocop that I scored for free from a customer and another with Heavy Barrel that was $75.
Good luck
keep us posted on how it goes.
btw, to post pics, you can toss them on something like photobucket and paste 'em in or you can use the thread for posting pics in the project announcements
-
Well the monitor may have some issues. It sometimes seems perfectly fine and then sometimes it gets violently wavy or jittery. Is that a thing? I'll have to search around but maybe somebody reading this knows right off what needs fixing.
-
You may wanna take a short video of it and put it on youtube, then start a thread in the monitors section with a full explanation and a link to the video.
You will also wanna figure out what monitor is it. I beleive both of my Dataeast cabs had wg7000s in them.
you can go here for monitor id http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html (http://www.therealbobroberts.net/monitor.html)
Check first to make sure all connections are tight. Its very common to have problems like that right after buying a game or relocating a game because stuff tends to work loose in the move. Also bad solder joints can be to blame. are you comfortable working on something like that?
-
I put together one through-hole kit or two to try to learn a couple years ago. This is probably a little bit beyond my current skills. What have I gotten myself into now...
-
well check the plug connections first, maybe you won't need to do soldering
-
The monitor says hanatrex the model number is too faded but I think it starts with M, and I think I broke off one of the connections on the bottom, It looked loose and now I know it is. need to find a snub nose screwdriver to plug it back in.
-
Here is the initial video I tried to make. I'll make a thread in the monitor section when I find a fresher potato to record this with.
Robocop gets jittery (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfaw1AWRxGQ#)
-
Here is another video with the same potato. It seems the jiggle I want to film is a little too fast to capture. It is jiggling horizontally I suppose. You can sort of see it on these two videos but it looks smoother than it is. Am I going to need a cap kit?
Robocop arcade ending (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NblMW2MFI7A#)
-
I haven't been to watch the video yet. But I would check to see if the horiz hold pot is at fault (either a bad pot or bad solder joint where the pot connects to the board). You can check it by having someone watch the monitor (or use a mirror) and try messing with the horiz hold pot by pushing lightly on it or slightly jiggling it and turning it a little bit. You may also want to verify that your sync lines are plugged in firmly. From the jamma harness you should have one or two connectors which contain the red, green, blue and ground and sync.
Make sure that the wires are tight in the connectors and that the connectors are tight to the board. You can even verify they are cool on the jamma harness at the game board by wiggleing them and seeing if anything goes screwy
Good luck
-
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Potato&defid=6321730 (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Potato&defid=6321730)
I must be getting old- I have to google slang words.
-
I thought it was some funny autocorrect issue myself.
-
Yeah I was unsure too but was afraid to ask ;D
-
Me four. ;D
-
Gameongrafix has the Dataeast cpo http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/data-east-generic-cpo (http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/data-east-generic-cpo)
Nice score on the robocop cabinet. I love this type of cabinet. My Mame cab is the same kinda cab. I have 2 of these cabinets, one Robocop that I scored for free from a customer and another with Heavy Barrel that was $75.
Good luck
keep us posted on how it goes.
btw, to post pics, you can toss them on something like photobucket and paste 'em in or you can use the thread for posting pics in the project announcements
Hey ,
Thanks for the location of the CPO. I was looking all over...... I guess I need to look harder.
Thanks again,
MM
OUT :afro:
-
I've started a thread in the monitor section to try to learn what model monitor this beast has.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117645.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117645.0)
-
Fixed the first minor issue. They had a over sized spade on this wire and it wouldn't fit in, so I got a smaller terminal and put in on right. The voltage condition on the power supply was red/high so I kicked it down a tiny bit and the green/ok light came on. I also touched the adjustment knobs for the horizontal freq and shift and my jigglin problem got worse. Probably cold solder joints. I am now in the market for a high watt 1M ohm resistor for making a monitor discharge tool if anybody has a link to an appropriate item.
-
You can just use a long screw driver and an aligator clip.
For mine, I took the screwdriver and grounded the plating off of it down by the handle and then grounded one side flat and drilled a hole through it. I then slipped a wire through and wrapped it around and taped it real tight. The other end of that wire has a clip on it.
periodically I'll do a quick continuity test between the clip and the tip of the screwdriver to make sure it hasn't come loose.
You adjusted your power supply? This red / green led was on the power supply itself? You should verify that you are actually getting 5 vdc at the game board because too low or too high of voltage at the game board can give issues. I always find 5.1 to be a happy number.
-
Yes, the adjustment and led are on the power supply. The only meter I have was a free one I got from Harbor Freight. I hope it works right.
-
Testing with my meter causes the led on the power supply to go out but the game still works after turning it off and on. not sure if i did anything wrong. my meter is a little strange with a 200mA max on most test modes and then a separate 10A max mode that still fails. I should probably buy a proper multimeter anyway. I wonder wow much it would cost to replace the power supply and the isolation transformer and all the old wiring, then reflow the adjustment pots, and all new caps. Get this thing ready to mame. Actually I wouldn't want to replace the power supply if I'm going to mame it would I.
I've been practicing my soldering on some old junk I bought for a few bucks at the trade it store. This monitor looks like its going to be a major pain though, with two separate boards with little jumper wire stitches. Not the kind of thing you want to learn on, but I'm pretty determined to fix this lemon and mame it.
-
It sounds like you meter wasn't set for metering dc voltages.
I don't see why you'd think the power supply and iso transformer need replacement. especially if you're going to Mame it, whereas you won't need the power supply any more.
-
I guess it just looks old and crusty to me. Does it look good to go to you? Seems to work alright.