Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: AlucardXP on January 19, 2012, 04:40:45 pm
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Ok, so I have a dynamo showcase cab that im working on. It has a Sharp Image dual scan chassis and tube. I bought this cab for $20 with a bad chassis in it. It needed a flyback but it needed more then that. I had a spare from another showcase cab that I bought and the boards are similar but different. The spare I have has a small board on it on in the corner that I would assume is screen positioning (it has a wire on it that you can move to select L,R, and C) and the board color is grey. The chassis that came out, the color is tan and doesnt have that other board in the corner (the board has the print out for it tho).
Onto the problem -
A While ago I went to get the cab up and running and put my golden tee board in it (might aswell abuse the 25k setting). I put my spare chassis in it and forgot to put the flyback anode on...oops...I went to turn the power on and it grounded and I shut it down FAST. I hooked it back up and turned it on and all the adjustments were out of wack. I figured I blew something so I just walked away while kicking myself in the ass. The other day I took the chassis back out and decided to start again. Going over everything, I noticed that there was a crack resistor. I replaced it with one from the, now parts, chassis. I put it all back together and adjusted everything and it works...there was a yellow hue and yellow lines. I adjusted the flyback down and that got rid of the lines as usual. After more adjustment I think I finally got the yellowing down.
Now that I got the picture displaying good and the colors all on target it leaves me with this, The picture isnt clear and crisp...or bright for that matter either. Before anyone starts with "adjust the brightness and contrast", I have...Im not new. Just never ran into this before. Ive adjusted everything to where they should actually be. If I turn the flyback up any more, I start getting lines. The sub bright is in a spot where it works good with both the brightness and contrast.
Another note too, this cab has clear plexi over the tube unlike some that have tinted (or smoked) plexi.
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you can try turning up the drive for the color guns, sometimes that can help with a dim pic..
i'd be more inclined to check the chassis to be sure the b+ was within spec. first though.
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you can try turning up the drive for the color guns, sometimes that can help with a dim pic..
i'd be more inclined to check the chassis to be sure the b+ was within spec. first though.
Thanks for the help. I checked the B+ and it was good. I ended up swapping all the parts back to the parts board to see if that would work and it had the same problem. I ended up swapping my known good board from my other showcase cabinet into it and I should of just done that first cause it turns out the tube is bad since my good board does the same thing and the chassis I was working with, worked perfectly in my other cab. Good thing I have a spare tube just laying around taking up space lol. Gonna swap that out tonight.
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Also, maybe you can help, the chassis I have that was the first known good one (Sharp Image KTM-F) has 2 problems that ive yet to work on. The image is a little shakey and I cant seem to get it stable and the other issue is usually when I goto turn the cabinet on, the chassis doesnt turn on until I tap the bottom of it once. Seems a little slap gets it turned on. I thought it could be a ground issue but its perfectly grounded. Sometimes itll keep turning on if the last slap was good enough lol.
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I also have a Sharp Image monitor in my Dynamo Showcase(Soul Calibur 2) cab. It had a little squiggly line on the borders and the color was dim. After turning the brightness up as much as I could, I would get the horizontal lines as well.
I ended up ordering a cap kit from Bob Roberts and it helped with the brightness tremendously, and the squiggle lines are gone.
This is my thread on my buggy Sharp Image monitor.....not sure if it will help you at all. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116889.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=116889.0)
Good Luck!
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Thanks for the response. I'm not too sure how old the caps are on this ktm-f board. It was deff serviced at some point in its life tho. That's prob gonna be what I'm going to check out since its perfect other then being a little shaky...and havin to smack it to turn it on lol but I'm actually working on all these monitors now. Heating up my soldering iron and getting to work :D