Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum
Main => Main Forum => Topic started by: matrix00 on January 11, 2012, 06:53:38 pm
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What would you suggest is the best type of solder to use on jamma pcbs and what type pf soldering tip and iron?
Thanks again for all the help.
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Any soldering iron with a pointed tip should do the trick but I would recommend the following:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_357336-273-WPS18MP_0__?productId=3402986&Ntt=soldering+iron&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dsoldering%2Biron&facetInfo= (http://www.lowes.com/pd_357336-273-WPS18MP_0__?productId=3402986&Ntt=soldering+iron&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dsoldering%2Biron&facetInfo=)
It is a good soldering iron and I find it easier to use than the cheap $14 dollar soldering irons.
As far as solder goes, Tin/Lead solder is the most common and will work fine. If you can find it in a 63/37 ratio, it is ideal. This is what we used to solder electronics when I worked in nuclear power and is also what Nasa uses. It has a lower melting point and is a little easier as far as setting goes. 60/40 will work as well and is less expensive.
In both cases, ensure you are using rosin core solder. This helps with the wicking of the solder by removing impurities and will also help avoid cold solder joints. Do not used an acid based core as this is corrosive to electronics.
Hope this helps
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I use a Hakko iron, and it works great. I usually just use the 60/40 solder from Radio Shack.
Some of the solder on those old PCBs is really hard to melt. Add new solder to it and it will melt easier. Then remove it all with a solder sucker.
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Thanks for they great info. I ordered the one from lowes.
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I just got a new Hakko yesterday (FX-888), awesome bit of kit :)
But yes, get yourself some leaded solder. It's banned for general use here in the UK but we can still get it.
As Paul said add a touch solder to the tip of your iron before soldering, this helps to transfer the heat much more easily than with a 'dry' iron.
Also, get yourself some liquid flux. It removes oxides formed during heating and you are much more likely to end up with a nice shiny, concave joint.
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I would get a soldering station any time. It is really nice to be able to set the temperature. They can be bought for 50$ already, and having 150-450°C range is really handy to keep heating as short as possible and to be able to desolder those big capacitor bitches too.
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A couple of more things to help out....
http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm (http://radiojove.gsfc.nasa.gov/telescope/soldering.htm)
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You guys are awesome thanks for all the info.
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A little late now, but +1 to Mr Olson, Franco and Blanka.
I have two stations where I can set the temperature and it makes all the differencein the world for working on the variety of controls and boards we see in coin-op.
I'll never go back to something like Dawgz recommends, BUT (having said that) haruman is one of the most gifted "solderers" here and I understand he uses a RatShack pencil iron, so YMMV.
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...and don't try to solder on a good Jamma PCB until you get the hang of it on some junk PCB's. May I ask what you want to solder or remove?
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...and don't try to solder on a good Jamma PCB until you get the hang of it on some junk PCB's. May I ask what you want to solder or remove?
I am just trying to learn so that I can fix stuff when the time comes. I bought a Mortal Kombat PCB that needs fixed so I thought I would practice on that. I really do appreciate all the help on this forum its seems everyone is truly willing to help. Thanks again to everyone for the help, it is very much appreciated.